Too Fuzzy

I actually found a right rear caliper at my local auto parts store. Unloaded, unbracketed but other wise identical. How did that happened ?? I guess I’ll have to start this job in earnest tomorrow... Larry

The plot thickens.... , it is impossible to remove brake line flare nuts from the fittings. Flare nut wrench is no good, he’ll vice grips are no good. Left side brake line from the 3-way to the hose connection looks like it’s also on borrowed time. Right rear brake caliper is a ball of rust and doubt it’s even functioning. It looks like it’s time to drop the fuel tank, fab new brake lines from the 3-way ( if I can get them off) back to to both rear brakes, new hoses and replace the impossible to find right caliper. Oh, should I do something with that fist size hole in the muffler also? This car has a hard 45k on the odo... Larry

Thanks Hemi! Larry

Hemi, Do you know if this is standard 3/16 line or metric? Larry

Greetings to all, My last post was May 2017 at which time I was starting to replace hoses on my ‘89 8v early block. Yes, the car sat for a year but in my defense I acquired a John Deere 2240 for the homestead. I spent the winter not restoring but we’ll call refurbishing the tractor. I went back to work on the TC last week and and completed all the belts, hoses, timing belt, water pump, both pan gaskets and all 3 shaft seals. I fabricated a crank sprocket puller. It was ugly but it worked, pulling from all 5 screws. The car started fine and idles good but when I was pulling the car out of the garage I noticed a large puddle of fluid just forward of the right rear wheel and the associated brake warning light. Of course, I’m thinking motor oil, the car’s telling me brake fluid. Duh! Of course it’s brake fluid! The steel brake line, right side just forward of the connection to the most forward rubber brake hose is rusted thru. This line snakes behind the fuel tank to a 3-way fitting on the left side. Upside,fuel gage is reading empty?. Really, any other better ideas than to drop the tank and change the whole line and are these lines double flared? Thanks, Larry

Thanks guys for the quick response. The car manufactured date shows 3/89 and there is a block-off plate on the block just behind the water pump (good info). I 'll follow the forums historical data for early block part #'s. My enthusiasm is waning for the crank seal. The procedure is what I was hoping for but the tool may be a problem. I'll have to study on that for a while before I start ripping and tearing. In the meantime I'll get some parts on the way. As a matter of prudence I checked all the oil pan bolts- nice and snug. It doesn't mean I don't have a pan leak at the corner of the pan seal however. The valve cover also looks good. Any other common points of oil leakage from the passenger aft side of the engine? Thanks

Greetings to all, Call it a personality disorder but for me one project always leads into another "as long as I'm in here".... While flushing and changing all the hoses I noted a really good oil leak from the front crank area. This oil leak blows back onto the inner axle boot and is slung back to the fire wall in such a way that it I actually thought I had a cracked axle boot. I've twice accomplished an intensified inspection of the boot, finding no issues. So that brings me to replacing the front crank seal and ..... "as long as I'm here", the timing belt. A couple of questions, as long as I'm there, the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and what else should be replace while I'm in the area? The maintenance manual shows a special tool for removing the crank seal. Can this seal be removed in place otherwise? Any recommendations for tensioning the timing belt without a special tool other than snug but not too snug? Specs= 1989 2.2l 8v auto Any procedural tips are alays welcome. Thanks, Too Fuzzy

Reaper1, Thanks for the reply. Yes, HVAC controls work. I pulled the left front tire and crawled around for about an hour or so. I finally found an open nipple on the turbo just left of the air cleaner turbo inlet hose. I pulled the manual out again and found the hose depicted in chapter 11 fig 12 - cleaner assemblies and yes it connects to the turbo.The end of the hose is crusty and dirty. It looks like it hasn't been connected for a long while. Scratch one more problem... Thanks again, Larry

I HATE when that happens...

Greetings, I've been previously posting under "Getting another TC on the Road" however thought I should start another thread for my questions for making them searchable to other forum members. To update, I thought the car some what of a dog especially up hill. That and an intermittent starting issue were my two biggest concerns. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for my start issue. As a matter of precaution I didn't like the "looks" of the IAC sensor and electrical connector, replacing both of them. Damn thing runs like a new car! Really! My gas mileage went from 16.5 to 21.5 and plenty of pickup now. Its become a very nice daily driver with the exception of the (very) intermittent start issue. Last weekend I cleaned the throttle body and AIS motor. Idle is much better now. I guess we'll see if that fixes my start issue. I need help identifying a vacuum line I have found disconnected. I had no luck finding it in my maintenance manual. Please note the attached pics. Pic "A" shows the air box removed and the port noted. Pic "B" shows the box and line I'm referencing. To explain, the line exits the air box and 90's to a "T" conn. One line continues to a "Y" conn where it splits one line to the cruise control and one line through a check valve to the intake manifold. Back at the "T" the bottom line 90's under the air box and disappears. Any ideas where that line might go? From the looks of the end the hose hasn't been connected for while. Your next thought is, "why the hell doesn't he look under the removed air box?" The air box really isn't removed. I just...just borrowed the pic . As always , thanks for the help! Larry

Greetings, I've been previously posting under "Getting another TC on the Road" however thought I should start another thread for my questions for making them searchable to other forum members. To update, I thought the car some what of a dog especially up hill. That and an intermittent starting issue were my two biggest concerns. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for my start issue. As a matter of precaution I didn't like the "looks" of the IAC sensor and electrical connector, replacing both of them. Damn thing runs like a new car! Really! My gas mileage went from 16.5 to 21.5 and plenty of pickup now. Its become a very nice daily driver with the exception of the (very) intermittent start issue. Last weekend I cleaned the throttle body and AIS motor. Idle is much better now. I guess we'll see if that fixes my start issue. I need help identifying a vacuum line I have found disconnected. I had no luck finding it in my maintenance manual. Please note the attached pics. Pic "A" shows the air box removed and the port noted. Pic "B" shows the box and line I'm referencing. To explain, the line exits the air box and 90's to a "T" conn. One line continues to a "Y" conn where it splits one line to the cruise control and one line through a check valve to the intake manifold. Back at the "T" the bottom line 90's under the air box and disappears. Any ideas where that line might go? From the looks of the end the hose hasn't been connected for while. Your next thought is, "why the hell doesn't he look under the removed air box?" The air box really isn't removed. I just...just borrowed the pic . As always , thanks for the help! Larry

Happy Spring time!(?) gang, I haven't posted for a while. I put the car back in the barn for the winter only to drag it out for the first real snow storm of the year. Lot of nickle and dime repairs over the winter including a lot of electrical issues. The car is becoming a reasonable daily driver but there is a fair bit of repairs left. I still have an intermittent starting issue ( see above) I think a fuel pressure regulator will probably fix it. I still have numerous electrical issues dealing with the radio ( inop ), antenna relay and related circuit and of course the convertible top. 3 days on the bench, the radio is shot. Who needs an antenna without a radio, right? A socket is a temp fix for the top issue. I can live with those issues for the short term. The 3 big issues: 1.) A new exhaust is probably in order based on the fist sized hole in the muffler. ( no biggie yet as I fit right in with my neighbors) I'll have some questions about that later. 2.) Right outer axle boot may have a pin hole ... maybe, nothing found. The mess slings like a cracked boot but the substance is more oily than greasy making me thing I have a power steering line leaking onto the boot... maybe. I'll chase that closer when the weather improves. 3.) My biggest problem is the lack of engine power. In general, the car's a dog especially up hill. It feels like the turbo doesn't start to pull until 3300-3500 rpm indicated. If I hold at least that rpm or romp on it then the car is very responsive, even up hill. BOV, waste gate, vacuum leak? So far I have not found any vacuum leaks. The car is a stock 8v. Any opinion is appreciated. Happy almost spring! Thanks, Larry

EmmettTC just for you! - Too Fuzzy

I think your right. I traced one side forward and down to a valve that looks inline with a water line. The tough one to find was going forward through the firewall. That line was very short and very brittle. I guess I'll try to splice under the dash and feed new into the engine compartment. Good thing its 90F with 90% humidity... Thanks, Too Fuzzy

My apologies. Hopefully this will make my inquiry more clear. In he mean time I'll check the vents as described. The broken end is now laying against the reservoir for clarity. Thanks, Too Fuzzy