89RedDarkGrey

Members
  • Content count

    1,826
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 89RedDarkGrey

  1. 89RedDarkGrey

    1990 AC green o-rings

    Yes- you should lubricate all seals and threaded junctions with THIS TYPE PRODUCT ONLY VIDEO #1 VIDEO #2
  2. 89RedDarkGrey

    A great video on our DIS ignition system

    You can ask him- ericobrochta@hotmail.com He was using the new software-based version, which is a small box, cables, and you plug it into a PC (laptop). Yes- a very nice investment if you're going to use it on a regular basis. The diagnostic time saved- it pays for itself in a short time. Pico Scope here
  3. 89RedDarkGrey

    Removing rear window tinting without damaging defroster?

    THIS WEBSITE and their products and videos can help you too
  4. 89RedDarkGrey

    Removing rear window tinting without damaging defroster?

    I, too- find his accent quite refreshing. I grew up in Charlotte, Raleigh, and Wilmington Richard D.- you also mentioned you have a dead defroster track? Permatex makes an excellent Defroster Repair Kit Use a DVM and test from side to side, to find the open circuit. I have used these kits on many cars, living in Central New York- we really rely on the defroster. I plan on actually removing my high-mount light assembly, and creating 2 more grids where the light is. It is frosted over in Winter, and invisible. I have never been satisfied with the small amount of window the grid covers, and this kit will fix that, very easily.
  5. 89RedDarkGrey

    a 170 degree thermostat...SUCCESS!

    How about this? CARiD has many parts for us. Thermostat? What car and year? What temp you want? The cater to racing and modders.
  6. 89RedDarkGrey

    Water in gas

    ACETONE. 1 OZ PER GALLON. ORGANIC SOLVENT.
  7. 89RedDarkGrey

    1990 convertible AC pressures

    Please check: HERE or HERE or HERE It is temperature based.
  8. 89RedDarkGrey

    Cardone rebuilt TEVES units

    A 3 channel ABS system treats the 1 channel (rear in Reatta) as one wheel when engaging anti skid function. Only the (front) two are independently operated if a front WSS doesn't match the other front WSS. More on this is HERE Correct. Equalization is a function of the Master Cylinder- any added "switch" (like you show) is used for locking up the fronts only- for launches, burnouts, etc. They also make (you show) the "twist" type that is nothing more than a limiting valve (adjustable orifice) HERE The system I propose- is a self-proportioning (60/40) 4 channel Master Cylinder and vacuum booster. Adjustable booster extension rods and kits , Booster-to-manifold hose , vacuum filter, fluid level cap, even an inline pressure switch are all available. If it means junking your car, or relying on a system pieced together with used parts- possibly risking life and limb- I'd tear that TEVES out real quick.
  9. 89RedDarkGrey

    Cardone rebuilt TEVES units

    At just over $1k at some places- this is a good investment to keep your Reatta going and stopping safely. The peace of mind might just be worth it to some owners, to keep from scrapping an otherwise nice car. LINK Just $816 FREE S&H HERE
  10. 89RedDarkGrey

    Ignition module

  11. 89RedDarkGrey

    Cardone rebuilt TEVES units

    An ('89) Reatta uses only 3 brake lines. The rear is branched off to both wheels. The selection I'm referring to HERE has 4 channels, and incorporated front and rear regulation. They have fluid level sensor caps available, if needed. I'd prefer a 4 channel system anyway.
  12. 89RedDarkGrey

    Cardone rebuilt TEVES units

    I'm sorry I'm dense on this. Master Cylinder, Booster, maybe re bend the main 3 lines to go fit to the Master instead of the ABS valve block. What "rare unattainable parts" are you fellas talking about? The purpose of the conversion is omitting several "rare unattainable parts" not just doing the same. Why is this being made to sound more complicated than it should be? Fluid level sensor is basically universal (resistance) and the TEVES pressure switch is probably the same- much like the cooling fan modification. I totally agree. "Professionally" I can't think of a Commercial chain that would even know what they're looking at- let alone be able to service the system correctly. DAVES89 remarked of a pristine Reatta in a junkyard that was mostly there due to the brake system. Like I said before- the few necessary parts are all easily had new. What's the big deal?
  13. 89RedDarkGrey

    a 170 degree thermostat...SUCCESS!

    Have you got an Infrared thermometer heat gun? Just point it at the oil pan, trans cooler line, water neck, radiator, PS cooler, diagnose a catalytic converter, AC/heat temps, many uses. It would make your before and after experiments more definitive.
  14. 89RedDarkGrey

    Cardone rebuilt TEVES units

    Why would you need (or want) used old parts? If just going to conventional- all new parts (aftermarket) are easily had. 1989 Buick Riviera conventional brakes
  15. 89RedDarkGrey

    Cardone rebuilt TEVES units

    I was browsing RockAuto a while back, and saw some GM hubs that now incorporate the pickup in the hub. I'm not that electronic savvy, but can imagine if the entire ABS system was upgraded- it might be feasible. What communicates to the ABS? Pressure and fluid level sensors are read by the ECBM or BCM or both? Searching RA if you look up '05 Park Avenue- if willing to spend you could get the complete ABS there. It uses a regular vacuum booster. The hubs look identical to Reatta. R&D, knowledge, time and $$$ are the only things holding this back. Imagine what D-A-N-I-E-L has gone through with his setup
  16. 89RedDarkGrey

    a 170 degree thermostat...SUCCESS!

    With a lower temp you won't be cooking the condensation out of the oil very well anymore. In your climate an external trans cooler would be ideal, and make it easier to cool the engine. An added benefit of an external cooler is the added fluid capacity. An inline magnetic filter is also great to splice in.
  17. 89RedDarkGrey

    Cardone rebuilt TEVES units

    That's a bummer. I was going on info Ronnie had brought up over at ROJ. Ronnie's Link
  18. 89RedDarkGrey

    Chasing Tranny leaks

    Sorry- (post corrected) it is Pro-King line. Many choices HERE and HERE.
  19. 89RedDarkGrey

    Thoughts on gas smell when engine first starts -- SOLVED!

    Don't accidently lodge a clog in your new EVAP system
  20. 89RedDarkGrey

    Chasing Tranny leaks

    For the filter seal- use a flat blade screwdriver and small hammer. Hold the blade perpendicular to the seal lip, tap sharply to cave it in, pull it out. DO NOT pry against the aluminum body. Use Vaseline to lube the seal before filter insertion. I always use 3M spray adhesive on the pan side of the gasket to ensure seal, never RTV. Make sure the washers are freely moving, to ensure even torque.
  21. 89RedDarkGrey

    Chasing Tranny leaks

    My best luck with filters has been Pro-King. Rubber is superior to paper or cork. OEM side cover is usually cork- worse than useless, especially if leaking; tightening will probably make it crack and leak worse. I also don't recommend adding any "stop leak" to a transmission.
  22. 89RedDarkGrey

    Thoughts on gas smell when engine first starts -- SOLVED!

    Did you try to blow air into the vapor line to tank, with cap removed? Hopefully that's not plugged.
  23. 89RedDarkGrey

    Water in gas

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/17182075?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222009132476&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10364291302&wl4=kwd-1103085642268&wl12=17182075_0&wl14=&veh=sem
  24. 89RedDarkGrey

    Chasing Tranny leaks

    A complete rebuild is possible "in frame". It's a matter of taking the cradle apart, removing the axle, knuckle-strut combo, stabilizer link, dogbone, shift connections, etc. then lowering the entire powertrain down at an angle. The side pan can then be removed, then a new gasket and axle seal installed. You don't have to remove any internal transmission components for simple side pan removal. The most difficult bolt to remove will be the one Subframe bolt just under the AC compressor. Slightly lifting the engine will allow access to it. Penetrating oil everything first. I only use 50-50 acetone-ATF in a pump oil can. A short video- describing this procedure is on my channel. The original video job is an in depth 3-part series; I took a part of part 1 and edited it for content. I completely removed my unit- but I also had many more issues to tackle. VIDEO