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About 89RedDarkGrey

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    Upstate, New York
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    .Car Mechanics, movies, cooking

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  1. Removing the entire powertrain as a unit is definitely not a 1 person job. Many more connections with engine, draining coolant, possible hood removal- then separating the two- having a stand or old truck tire to set the engine on, and transferring an 189 lb. TH440-T4 to a workspace alone is no fun and dangerous- to the mechanic and transmission, should it be banged or dropped. If going up, with the entire powertrain was better- then why spend the money to design and build the KENT-MOORE J-Tools (Transaxle engine braces) and hundreds of other specialty tools for Dealerships to make their jobs easier, safer, and most of all quicker- actually saved many thousands of labor hours and Tech dollars. KENT-MOORE Tools was so lucrative- that it was bought out by SPX Service Solutions, and still continues to manufacture specialty tools for Dealers of car makers around the world.
  2. Yea, I can't offhand remember where I saw that "700 lb." figure. Maybe that's the engine/trans combo? Trans= roughly 189 (dry, no converter) -700 = 511 lbs ? Yes- I think my statement of engine weight was way off All I know- is that when I was crawlin around, cleaning, replacing, painting, (my Friend) welding- even though my brace was HD it still was unnerving at times. That's a lot of cold cast iron and aluminum and steel above me
  3. Buyer's Guide : ACDELCO 901030 Strut Mount BUICK REATTA 1988-1989 Buyer's Guide : ACDELCO 901029 Strut Mount BUICK REATTA 1990-1991 (Info from Rock Auto)
  4. That engine brace has the same design as many others, and as I've stated before- will not work on our Reatta. Look closely at your own. Even take a broom handle or similar to gauge it- the strut towers are very high, and the hood hinges are in the way perfectly. You can not rest any support on the edges of the plastic fenders, either.There is a reason I made my support the way I did. Also- a typical "engine hoist" (cherry picker) is nearly useless here- the legs are in the way, and hoists tend to pull back as they lift, which would be catastrophic, possibly yanking the car off the stands. The "Correct" T brace (Kent-Moore GM J-28467) is on eBay, but you must hunt down all the required components of the suitable brace for a Reatta. I think drtidmore mentioned he was fabbing his own brace, based on what's needed. It bolts to he strut towers.
  5. "Old" refers to the body of the filter itself, without any support. "New" has a stainless bottom, with a support tab, that rests on the pan, to hold the filter in place- since there is no actual "mounting point" to hold the filter to the unit. I'm surprised the old is still being offered?
  6. Regardless of any other kits you buy- the one most important is that Transgo Jr. with the Parrot Plate. The accumulator cover always warps and leaks- and I've seen them crack before, too. A very poor design. The Parrot Plate acts as a washer, evenly spreading out the clamping force.
  7. Some words of caution when using THIS are be mindful where our lifting eyelets are, and try to "spread out" the weight on the edges of our plastic fenders. I had found out that the support "A" legs of the H.F. version weren't tall enough, and to keep directly in line with the rear engine lifting eyelet, the "A" legs hit the Strut Towers. Also- the front bar was way too close to the engine, because the "A" leg wasn't tall enough. That is why I improvised with my partially home-made wood brace. I hope the OTC setup is different. Engine= roughly 700 pounds, Tranny= 189 pounds (dry) I would be very leery of using those included cables. An aluminum 4-banger, ok, sure. Our cast iron beast- no. I am very excited and happy that you are taking on this task! You will appreciate your car more when finished, and the peace of mind of reliability and longevity is priceless. Yes, David is a wonderful Man, indeed! He is usually always willing to help others.
  8. drtidmore- I totally agree with your approach- remove and dismantle the tranny before buying any "Hard" parts (unless you want/need for the Upgrade) to minimize cost. How do you plan on supporting the engine? I used my Friend's HF brace, but you MUST have a "T" type to hold it correctly. I improvised with a heavy board & chain to make a complete "T". One key- is to leave the Dogbone in place. It will stabilize the engine side-to-side very nicely. The only front support points you'll have (per the FSM) for this job- will be jack stands, directly rearward of the front wheels (while clearing the 2 Subframe mounts) on the underbody. Since I had additional body patching work- I opted to support at where the bumper shocks attach to the Core Support, on the absorber itself. It worked fine for me (with additional cement blocks and 1/4" plywood) It must be approximately I'd say about 2 ft. high at Rocker panel to easily wheel the tranny out.
  9. Very rarely do Hard parts ever fail. I can name off hand what I would definitely replace, regardless of "visible" wear: 1) https://transpartsonline.com/TPOTop/pprk.php?Image=624&Number=A84624&Description=Shell%2C+Reverse+Reaction+(4T60E)+(Hardened)+91-99+(AMD)&TsNumber=66978A&Addition=24221583&Price=43.39&Pic=4T60E&Variable=130&Trans=4T60E&core=0.00 2) (usually broken) https://transpartsonline.com/TPOTop/pprk.php?Image=280&Number=84280&Description=WASHER%2C+4th+Clutch+Hub+to+Driven+Sprocket+(4+round+Tabs%2C+2.830"+O.D.)+(4T60E%2C+440-T4)+84-99&TsNumber=&Addition=&Price=1.69&Pic=4T60E&Variable=120&Trans=4T60E&core=0.00 3) http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8065700&cc=1019922&jsn=492 Yes, cost adds quickly, easily spend $1.5k on just parts. A cheap (free?) "while you're in there" can be cleaning out the HVAC air box. Ez to get to with tranny out. http://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=95:heat-a-ac-system&id=325:evaporator-replacement (Just the cleaning part) 4T65E parts= https://transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=4T65E&TransPartsType=4T65E Awesome stuff.
  10. Between RockAuto and these places- http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/storefront.html https://transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=4T60E&TransPartsType=4T60E You should be able to find just about everything you need, without the hassle of getting a "donor parts" unit. If you have the means, muscle, and are able- then a scrap trans is another way to go, then harvesting questionable parts- and scrapping the rest is that route.
  11. Sorry about that. When you get time- please watch it, and maybe decide adding it to ROJ? It has info for all of us Reatta owners. Ronnie, I agree and the video demonstrates what you said
  12. +12k RPM to gain only 65 ft-lb of torque? That's strange. It's got to be the '88 cam in play, able to nearly keep up in lower end. The GN makes the others look like Pintos in comparison
  13. Here's a list of prices of tops, installation info is clickable: https://www.topsonline.com/model/Convertible_Tops_And_Accessories/Buick/1990_and_1991_Buick_Reatta_(ASC_Conversion).html http://www.electrontop.com/locate-installers.html http://convertibletops.com/index.php/find-my-car2/buick?option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=26&yearsearch=1990-91&yearmodel=Reatta&action=Edit https://www.mactops.com/convertible-tops-seattle.php And for DIY poor Folks: https://www.convertibletopguys.com/static/topmanual
  14. My '89 CRT also eventually went dark. When I first got the car in 2011, it's screen would wiggle around, then blank out, eventually dying completely (touchscreen still worked). Eddie Voland repaired it, using modern "better than new" components- and now it's flawless. $150 + $13 S&H, 1 week turn around.
  15. Welcome to the Forum, RetroJohnny! You could try posting your request here- http://forums.aaca.org/forum/96-reatta-buysell/ and maybe a Vendor here has what you need. To make it easier for us to help you in the future with any other stuff- please go to http://forums.aaca.org/settings/signature/ and include the year and any accessories your Reatta has in the Signature line. That way- we'll all know what you've got. There are a few differences in the 4 years Reattas were produced. Also- a wealth of useful information can be found here http://reattaowner.com/roj/ It is owned and run by a Member here named Ronnie. It is also a nice Forum to belong to, for helping yourself and other Reatta owners. Membership is also free. We all try to work together here, to help each other keep our cars running and safe. We have experts and newbies- but everyone has something to contribute here. Have fun, and hope you enjoy your Reatta