89RedDarkGrey

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About 89RedDarkGrey

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/24/1968

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    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-oBU2cMoPfDtiF2j0ezp0g

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    : Upstate, NY
  • Interests:
    My Reatta, cooking, PC repair, helping others in need.

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  1. BUY IT AND FIX IT !!!
  2. The Coolant Temperature Sensor is probably OEM and dead or weak.
  3. WOW Pull up it's codes----->http://reattaowner.com/roj/onboard-diagnostics/how-to-access-trouble-codes#2-how-to-access-the-codes-for-90-91-models Write them down. Decipher them---->http://reattaowner.com/roj/onboard-diagnostics/ecm-diagnostic-codes AND http://reattaowner.com/roj/onboard-diagnostics/bcm-a-crt-diagnostic-codes Then print this for your many future references---->http://reattaowner.com/roj/onboard-diagnostics/computer-diagnostic-instructions-19881989 Please start a new, individual thread for each problem. Also- please add your Reatta year to your profile signature------>http://forums.aaca.org/topic/280916-add-your-vehicle-info-to-your-signature/ This is a critical part of your Reatta. Either get yours repaired, or buy a working unit from a Vendor here on the Forum. Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) REPAIR SERVICE Good luck, and welcome to the Forum
  4. But I did any way- just for peace of mind
  5. VERY IMPORTANT TO REPLACE THE ORANGE TCC O-RING ON THE TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT. Draining and refill of the torque converter is a good idea, but not extremely necessary. http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=8662686
  6. It's usually the nylon gear- not anything else. It is the weakest part of the whole system- just like the plastic rollers for the headlights. All it takes is a few times of binding or unlubricated operation, and all that stress tears the teeth. I wouldn't advise an "upgrade" of a metal gear- the forces could easily shatter the glass.
  7. Please refer to this thread- http://forums.aaca.org/topic/290359-driver-side-power-window/
  8. My bet is contamination in the system- or a faulty power steering pressure switch.
  9. Well- it's obvious there- that the system was not thoroughly cleaned before the upgrade. Changing refrigerants is a precise job. All lines, evaporator, and condenser must be taken apart at junctions, rinsed out with solvent (Zep or UNCHLORINATED brake parts cleaner), HOT water rinse, air-hose dried, 7 new 134a compatible green O-rings with silicone paste installed, then the 2 fittings at accumulator and 2 at compressor must be capped, then system evacuated at removed low pressure switch to remove all moisture- and then held at vacuum for at least 1 hour to check for leaks. If no leaks- proceed with the installation of the new PAG oil charged accumulator, low pressure switch (with lubed O-ring) and compressor with it's 2 Dado lubed O-rings, then evacuate at accumulator, at least 30 minutes. If no leaks- proceed with charging at accumulator, engine 1.3k RPM, box fan in front, directed at grill, two feet away. While charging observe BD028-   My Friend David produced a video of this exact described procedure, same system as our Reatta. Instead of R12 or 134a he uses COMPUTER DUSTER (near to R12, superior to 134a) VIDEO PART ONE VIDEO PART TWO PLEASE WATCH THESE, AND SHARE THEM WITH YOUR MECHANIC. THANK YOU.
  10. That is the OEM designed operation. My Friends' '06 Accord has two adjustable "torsion rods" that, if set to high- fully lift the lid upon unlocking. Very convenient if you're hands are full- but damaging in a strong wind.
  11. Removal of glass is not necessary. The rollers easily move to the end of channel, other has a notch it slips through. Glass is held up in place with tape. Drilling and bolting of Regulator heavy spring is not necessary- it's more easily clamped with Vise grips, then multiple nylon zip ties to secure. Drill out rivets connecting motor to regulator. Save end bracket on motor, that will require 2 Aluminum rivets. Unit to door Hardware with Dorman motor is superb. Use blue Loctite. 2 hours total. I believe Mr. Finn was using slang, referring to the entire setup as a "window regulator" Only because of the labor involved=- I would personally never install a 29 year old electric and plastic part over new- however-the OEM units were made in USA and the electric part is superior. The nylon gear is the weak part. Photos of my '89 passenger side job is a video on my YouTube Channel=
  12. I've checked and checked. Either it is a "2-piece"- like the rear- or it's pressed in or the catalogs are screwed up.
  13. Definitely- you'd think there would be a "swirling effect" generated under the hood with the setup. I think the only way to properly adjust it with a box fan would be to have the condenser fully exposed. When they Dyno cars they use a high-powered fan in front for simulation. You're probably right, though- nothing beats actual driving for adjustment
  14. https://www.amazon.com/Air-King-9723-20-Inch-3-Speed/dp/B0007Q3RMA = 2,140 CFM http://www.scienceforums.net/topic/25944-cfm-to-mph/ = 55.73 MPH ~ 1,900 CFM