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About 89RedDarkGrey

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    Upstate, New York
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    .Car Mechanics, movies, cooking

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  1. THIS WEBSITE and their products and videos can help you too
  2. I, too- find his accent quite refreshing. I grew up in Charlotte, Raleigh, and Wilmington Richard D.- you also mentioned you have a dead defroster track? Permatex makes an excellent Defroster Repair Kit Use a DVM and test from side to side, to find the open circuit. I have used these kits on many cars, living in Central New York- we really rely on the defroster. I plan on actually removing my high-mount light assembly, and creating 2 more grids where the light is. It is frosted over in Winter, and invisible. I have never been satisfied with the small amount of window the grid covers, and this kit will fix that, very easily.
  3. How about this? CARiD has many parts for us. Thermostat? What car and year? What temp you want? The cater to racing and modders.
  5. Please check: HERE or HERE or HERE It is temperature based.
  6. A 3 channel ABS system treats the 1 channel (rear in Reatta) as one wheel when engaging anti skid function. Only the (front) two are independently operated if a front WSS doesn't match the other front WSS. More on this is HERE Correct. Equalization is a function of the Master Cylinder- any added "switch" (like you show) is used for locking up the fronts only- for launches, burnouts, etc. They also make (you show) the "twist" type that is nothing more than a limiting valve (adjustable orifice) HERE The system I propose- is a self-proportioning (60/40) 4 channel Master Cylinder and vacuum booster. Adjustable booster extension rods and kits , Booster-to-manifold hose , vacuum filter, fluid level cap, even an inline pressure switch are all available. If it means junking your car, or relying on a system pieced together with used parts- possibly risking life and limb- I'd tear that TEVES out real quick.
  7. An ('89) Reatta uses only 3 brake lines. The rear is branched off to both wheels. The selection I'm referring to HERE has 4 channels, and incorporated front and rear regulation. They have fluid level sensor caps available, if needed. I'd prefer a 4 channel system anyway.
  8. I'm sorry I'm dense on this. Master Cylinder, Booster, maybe re bend the main 3 lines to go fit to the Master instead of the ABS valve block. What "rare unattainable parts" are you fellas talking about? The purpose of the conversion is omitting several "rare unattainable parts" not just doing the same. Why is this being made to sound more complicated than it should be? Fluid level sensor is basically universal (resistance) and the TEVES pressure switch is probably the same- much like the cooling fan modification. I totally agree. "Professionally" I can't think of a Commercial chain that would even know what they're looking at- let alone be able to service the system correctly. DAVES89 remarked of a pristine Reatta in a junkyard that was mostly there due to the brake system. Like I said before- the few necessary parts are all easily had new. What's the big deal?
  9. Have you got an Infrared thermometer heat gun? Just point it at the oil pan, trans cooler line, water neck, radiator, PS cooler, diagnose a catalytic converter, AC/heat temps, many uses. It would make your before and after experiments more definitive.
  10. Why would you need (or want) used old parts? If just going to conventional- all new parts (aftermarket) are easily had. 1989 Buick Riviera conventional brakes
  11. I was browsing RockAuto a while back, and saw some GM hubs that now incorporate the pickup in the hub. I'm not that electronic savvy, but can imagine if the entire ABS system was upgraded- it might be feasible. What communicates to the ABS? Pressure and fluid level sensors are read by the ECBM or BCM or both? Searching RA if you look up '05 Park Avenue- if willing to spend you could get the complete ABS there. It uses a regular vacuum booster. The hubs look identical to Reatta. R&D, knowledge, time and $$$ are the only things holding this back. Imagine what D-A-N-I-E-L has gone through with his setup
  12. With a lower temp you won't be cooking the condensation out of the oil very well anymore. In your climate an external trans cooler would be ideal, and make it easier to cool the engine. An added benefit of an external cooler is the added fluid capacity. An inline magnetic filter is also great to splice in.