Jack Worstell

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About Jack Worstell

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  1. The ammeter in a 1937 Special....is the range 30-0-30 amps ?? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  2. Dave.....the halogen bulbs for the instrument panel....where did you get them ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  3. Isn't POR 15 UV ( sunlight ) sensitive ? And therefore a topcoat is almost necessary ? To topcoat POR 15 it almost has to be done while it is still tacky....so I've read. Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  4. Anyone know of a source for a substitute for #55 bulbs that are LED bulbs ??
  5. The small park lights that set on the top of the front fenders......what is the size/type of the bulbs ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  6. I can't see where step #2 of the above procedure is necessary. When I do this.... I do step #1 then start the engine and "rev" it a bit .....if the dash ammeter shows good charge then I know the generator is good and it must be the regulator or wiring or connections or (?). Or course step #2 will help give you a more accurate determination but you need a good high capacity ammeter and the test takes longer.. I skip #2 and am satisfied with "good enough" Have you checked to see if the base of the regulator is well grounded ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  7. LV Dave.....so now I guess all bulbs in your car are halogen ?? No LEDs ? And no incandescent bulbs ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  8. ply33......Your comments above are very interesting. It's the first time I've ever seen an attempt to compare incandescent vs LED and incandescent vs halogen in a quantitative way. I've always thought that LEDs draw much less current ( on a CP basis ) than incandescent bulbs......based on reading many many comments ( all non-quantitative ) on the subject. but this is the first time I've seen a quantitative (4X) factor cited ..... Do you have a reference for this ? I've seen comments ( non-quantitative ) containing inferences that halogens pull more current than do incandescent bulbs........... I've often wondered about the basis for this. Your factor of 40% less ( on a CP basis ) is the first time I've seen a quantified comparison.....and somehow I'm not surprised that halogens are more efficient. Again...if you have a reference I'd be interested in seeing it. It would take the guessing out of all of this if the manufactures would cite CP/watts/amps for all of their bulbs....sometimes I see this given....but usually only part of this info is given. And something else they should always give is the "color" level.(eg there are many different "whites") Case in point: we used 'white' LEDs to replace the regular 1154 brake/taillight bulbs in our 1937 Special. But these...behind the red lens..... gave a gnarlish orange-red appearance. Luckily we then found "red" LEDs 1154 replacements....and these worked out very well. Thanks for the clarification on this issue. Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  9. Dave....I guess you found halogen bulbs for both the headlights and for taillights/stoplight ? Where did you get them ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  10. Dave.......did you get halogen headlight bulbs from the outfit in Australia ? How much brighter are they than "standard" headlight bulbs ? Jack
  11. Just recently we installed red LED bulbs for taillght/stoplight on our 1937 Special......these look to be twice as bright as ordinary 1154 bulbs! http://www.ebay.com/itm/161588651951?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ( we found that "white" LED bulbs don't work out so well.......when put behind the red lenses the resulting appearance is a sort of red-orange....doesn't look right.) We haven't finished installing the turn signals yet.....so I don't know if these LEDs draw enough current to "fire" a flasher unit We only made the switch just a few days ago....but so far so good. Jack Worstell
  12. Dave...I'm guessing that you have the 12ga wire to the OD solenoid ( via the OD relay) hooked up as "battery hot".. But the power wire ( wire"A") to the relay itself... do you have it hooked up "battery hot" or "ignition hot " ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  13. Thanks Don...good info to know. I don't plan on taking the switch apart......but if it ever comes to this....I will know about the contact orientation. And I like your way of adding a cut-off switch, Jack
  14. Don....the only reason I'm adding the relay is to protect the ignition switch. so your comment about adding a relay to your car and this causing a problem with the ignition switch is disconcerting to me. The pull-in current of the relay I will be using is only a few tenths of an amp.....maybe 0.3 amps. I thought this small added load wouldn't be a problem for the ignition switch.?? By chance....do you know the pull-in current for the relay you used ?? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  15. Ken Just to clarify....not everything will get power from the new ignition relay....for example the clock. headlights, brake light, park lights, Trippe lights...., horn and maybe a few other things will stay wired as is.......ie "battery hot". Of course we could change our minds and add a few of the these things to the ignition relay circuit too, but we'll have to be careful not to exceed the 40 amp output capacity of the relay.( or add a second ignition relay in parallel...they are small...maybe a little bigger than 1" by 1" by 1" ). The pull-in current for these relays is only maybe a few tenths of an amp.......shouldn't be a problem for the ignition switch. We,re putting a small ( about 7" by 7" inches ) terminal board under the dash.......one set of terminals will be "ignition relay hot" and the other set will be "battery hot"........and we're making it such that we can switch any given load (eg radio) from one set of terminals to another set if we should change our mind about something. One problem we're hitting is that the dash ammeter is only a 30-0-30 unit (we think ???). So we're putting a 60-0-60 ammeter under the dash ....upstream ( electrically) of the dash ammeter . "Battery hot" loads will come off between these two units. "Ignition hot" loads will come off downstream of the dash ammeter. We didn't want to get into this but we didn't want to chance "blowing" the dash ammeter. At any rate it's not hard to add the second ammeter. We're using "period correct" wiring from Rhode Island Wiring . All of this is fairly simple wiring but it's taking us a while to incorporate all of these components....1937 Buicks weren't mean't to accommodate a lot of electrical stuff !! The heater and radio ( factory accessories ) probably at least 10 amps to base load. Other stuff we're adding will amount to maybe another approx 20 amps ( eg the primary points in the OD solenoid pull probably more than 10 amps...at least for a few moments when the solenoid first engages ) PS......is anyone wants to add an ignition relay....makes sure it is 6v not 12v Jack Worstell