Jack Worstell

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About Jack Worstell

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1933

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Charleston WV
  1. Buick Straight 8 Engine Bearings

    I have never been able to figure out Buick straight 8 engine bearings. But I think (??)............ Up until about 1937 main bearings were babbit From about 1937 to late 1940s the main bearings were what I would call "non-precision inserts" That is they had to be line bored and/or shimmed Starting in the late 1840s the mains were precision inserts....you turned down the crank then took careful measurements and then slipped the insert bearings in without shims and ( usually ) no need to line-bore Rod bearings were babbit up until the late 1940s............they had shims In the late 1940s Buick went to precision inserts for the rod bearings Buick didn't use non-precision inserts for the rod bearings So.....how close is this to being right ??? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  2. Replacing the 4.44 rear end with a lower rear ratio

    I have never been able to figure out Buick straight 8 engine bearings. But I think (??) Up until about 1937 main bearings were babbit From about 1937 to late 1940s the main bearings were what I would call "non-precision inserts" That is they had to be line bored and/or shimmed Starting in the late 1840s the mains were precision inserts....you turned down the crank then took careful measurements and then slipped the insert bearings in without shims and ( usually ) no need to line-bore Rod bearings were babbit up until the late 1940s. They had shims In the late 1940s Buick went to precision inserts for the rod bearings Buick didn't use non-precision inserts for the rod bearings So.....how close is this to being right ??? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  3. Replacing the 4.44 rear end with a lower rear ratio

    Jim in one of the posts above you mentioned that you rebuilt the original 248 engine out of your 1938 Buick Two questions .........The rod bearings I guess were the old babbit type....did you have the babbit re-done ? Or the rods re-done to accommodate modern insert bearings ? Or the babbit bearings were OK and needed nothing ?? The crank bearings I believe were what I call "non-precision inserts" Did you have to do anything to them ? If you had to replace them did you have to line-bore them and/or shim them ? Or ? Jack Worstell
  4. Knee Action Shock Absorber Fluid

    Spinneyhill.........so which fork oil out of 8 pages is the right one.......?? Jack
  5. 1937 Special Rear Shock Arm/Shock Link

    Thanks Tom...sounds promising. By chance should there be a washer between the cotter pin and the shack link ? Jack Worstell
  6. Today I noticed something about the rear shock on our 1937 Special. At the end of the shock arm is attached the shock link ( which mounts vertically and is about 8" long ) The end of the shock arm is attached to the top of the link by a pin which is about 2" long...it mounts horizontally The pin is partially pulled out by about 1/2". It isn't pulled out entirely so it is still fastening the end of the shock arm to the top of the shock link. But it looks like it won't be much longer until it pulls out farther and then will no longer fasten these two components together. I can't tell what keeps the pin ( which looks something like a 1/2" dia by 2" long bolt ) in place. At first I thought a nut was missing but after looking closer I don't think there was ever a nut. A C clip of some kind ? Or maybe the pin just runs thru the two components ? Need advice on (a) how all of this is fastened together ( what hold the pin in the proper place ) and (b) how do I go about fixing this ?? Thanks Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com PS this is on the passenger side rear only...the driver's side rear is fine...the 2" pin has not pulled out any on the driver's side
  7. 1937 Special Fill Shocks

    We thought we would do some preventative maintenance and change the fluid in our shocks..on our 1937 Special But how in the world do you get to the rear shocks to put the fluid in ?? The shocks are way up inside the frame ........do you have to remove the shocks in order to put fluid in ?? Where is the fill cap ?? The shop manual doesn't help any. How about the front shocks...if we take off the front wheels can we get to the shocks to put fluid in ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  8. 1937 Buick Clock Recall

    I have come across this twice also. I've been able to re-solder using a small battery powered soldering iron....it's tedious. Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  9. Knee Action Shock Absorber Fluid

    Knee action shocks used in late 1930s/early 1940s Buicks...what's the right fluid to use in these ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  10. Will 1936 mdl 60 rear end fit 1936 mdl 41

    Jim........I didn't know that Lloyd had a sister..........I thought he only had a stepson ( who had no interest in the old car hobby at all ).....but I;m a bit hazy on this. You got to know Lloyd far better than I did. I did get a chance to see his car collection ........ terrific. Someone driving past his modest house would be greatly surprised to learn that he had a remarkable car collection stored on his property. I wonder what will happen to the cars ??? Lloyd told us that he planned to auction off all of them this coming August....obviously that is not going to happen. Jim...a suggestion..I think it would be a good thing if you would do a post here on the forum with some conspicuous title and let people know that Lloyd Young ODs are still available. People may not pick up on your comments about this in this middle of this thread. I think there are many ..people who believe that this service...with Lloyd's passing...is lost. Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  11. Will 1936 mdl 60 rear end fit 1936 mdl 41

    Studebeggar you may know that Lloyd passed away recently. I doubt that most people could duplicate Lloyd's efforts ....it's quite a project esp if you don't have an example to work from. I sort of remember that Lloyd used a machine shop in Circleville Ohio to do a lot of the work. If you could find them....you might be able to pull it off. We put one of his ODs in our 1937 Special...it's a terrific improvement. Jack Worstell PS we were at Lloyd's maybe a month or so ago....he had a number of ODs in semi-finished condition. This would help...but a lot of the job is pretty much custom for an individual car.
  12. Will 1936 mdl 60 rear end fit 1936 mdl 41

    Jim....so one car has an overdrive ( and a 4.44 ratio ) and a Century with a 3,41 rear end ? Jack Worstell
  13. Turn Signals/Additional Brake Light...

    On our 1937 Special we removed the single contact socket for the plate light and installed a double contact socket and used a 1154 6v bulb. One contact for plate light and one contact for brake light. We tapped into the brake light wire near the driver's side rear brake light/taillight fixture to run a brake light feed to the 1154 We couldn't use a regular 1154...not enough room. But luckily you can get a 1154 made with a small glass envelope and these will fit. Jack Worstell
  14. Overdrive Information 38 Buick...

    Matt....if the oil leak problem went away and the solenoid was insulated from heat....then would you have a reliable unit ? I'm interested in your experience because we have a recently installed BW overdrive in our 1937 Special.....and I'd like to be able to anticipate any problems that may be coming down the road Jack Worstell
  15. Overdrive Information 38 Buick...

    Bob the OD pamphlet published by Warner Gear division says use SAE 40 wt engine oil straight mineral oil of the transmission type SAE No 80 also is OK DON'T use hypoid axle type lubricant I don;t completely understand engine oil vs transmission oil distinction....but this is what Warner Gear says. For our OD unit ( in our 1937 Special ) Lloyd pulled out the governor and the speedometer driven gear ( I think this was SOP for him ??) The factory control scheme depended on the governor....so Lloyd came up with an alternate control scheme. His method is clever and this is what we have in our OD...it works very well. But eventually we plan to add the governor back ...and add a little more wiring...and go back to the factory control set-up. We think it will be more convenient to have a governor control set-up......a "nice-to-have". If you have no governor Be careful not to start out in low gear with the solenoid engaged...this might damage the OD unit Be careful not to back up with the solenoid engaged...this might damage the OD unit. it will be possible to "free-wheel" above 27mph ( 27 mph is the 'set-point" for a governor )........this could get dicey from a safety standpoint. Lloyd's set-up incorporates a clever "clutch switch" and this makes it very unlikely to start-out in low gear or in reverse with the solenoid engaged...but even so this is something to be aware of...it can't be much fun to pull out the OD unit to replace out the planetary gear set Like others have said....an OD works wonders for an old car with a high ( numerically ) rear end ratio.........such as the 4.44 in our 1937 Special.. We are happy with the Lloyd Young OD Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com