Jack Worstell

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About Jack Worstell

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  1. Anyone know of a source for a substitute for #55 bulbs that are LED bulbs ??
  2. The small park lights that set on the top of the front fenders......what is the size/type of the bulbs ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  3. I can't see where step #2 of the above procedure is necessary. When I do this.... I do step #1 then start the engine and "rev" it a bit .....if the dash ammeter shows good charge then I know the generator is good and it must be the regulator or wiring or connections or (?). Or course step #2 will help give you a more accurate determination but you need a good high capacity ammeter and the test takes longer.. I skip #2 and am satisfied with "good enough" Have you checked to see if the base of the regulator is well grounded ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  4. LV Dave.....so now I guess all bulbs in your car are halogen ?? No LEDs ? And no incandescent bulbs ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  5. ply33......Your comments above are very interesting. It's the first time I've ever seen an attempt to compare incandescent vs LED and incandescent vs halogen in a quantitative way. I've always thought that LEDs draw much less current ( on a CP basis ) than incandescent bulbs......based on reading many many comments ( all non-quantitative ) on the subject. but this is the first time I've seen a quantitative (4X) factor cited ..... Do you have a reference for this ? I've seen comments ( non-quantitative ) containing inferences that halogens pull more current than do incandescent bulbs........... I've often wondered about the basis for this. Your factor of 40% less ( on a CP basis ) is the first time I've seen a quantified comparison.....and somehow I'm not surprised that halogens are more efficient. Again...if you have a reference I'd be interested in seeing it. It would take the guessing out of all of this if the manufactures would cite CP/watts/amps for all of their bulbs....sometimes I see this given....but usually only part of this info is given. And something else they should always give is the "color" level.(eg there are many different "whites") Case in point: we used 'white' LEDs to replace the regular 1154 brake/taillight bulbs in our 1937 Special. But these...behind the red lens..... gave a gnarlish orange-red appearance. Luckily we then found "red" LEDs 1154 replacements....and these worked out very well. Thanks for the clarification on this issue. Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  6. Dave....I guess you found halogen bulbs for both the headlights and for taillights/stoplight ? Where did you get them ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  7. Dave.......did you get halogen headlight bulbs from the outfit in Australia ? How much brighter are they than "standard" headlight bulbs ? Jack
  8. Just recently we installed red LED bulbs for taillght/stoplight on our 1937 Special......these look to be twice as bright as ordinary 1154 bulbs! http://www.ebay.com/itm/161588651951?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ( we found that "white" LED bulbs don't work out so well.......when put behind the red lenses the resulting appearance is a sort of red-orange....doesn't look right.) We haven't finished installing the turn signals yet.....so I don't know if these LEDs draw enough current to "fire" a flasher unit We only made the switch just a few days ago....but so far so good. Jack Worstell
  9. Dave...I'm guessing that you have the 12ga wire to the OD solenoid ( via the OD relay) hooked up as "battery hot".. But the power wire ( wire"A") to the relay itself... do you have it hooked up "battery hot" or "ignition hot " ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  10. Thanks Don...good info to know. I don't plan on taking the switch apart......but if it ever comes to this....I will know about the contact orientation. And I like your way of adding a cut-off switch, Jack
  11. Don....the only reason I'm adding the relay is to protect the ignition switch. so your comment about adding a relay to your car and this causing a problem with the ignition switch is disconcerting to me. The pull-in current of the relay I will be using is only a few tenths of an amp.....maybe 0.3 amps. I thought this small added load wouldn't be a problem for the ignition switch.?? By chance....do you know the pull-in current for the relay you used ?? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  12. Ken Just to clarify....not everything will get power from the new ignition relay....for example the clock. headlights, brake light, park lights, Trippe lights...., horn and maybe a few other things will stay wired as is.......ie "battery hot". Of course we could change our minds and add a few of the these things to the ignition relay circuit too, but we'll have to be careful not to exceed the 40 amp output capacity of the relay.( or add a second ignition relay in parallel...they are small...maybe a little bigger than 1" by 1" by 1" ). The pull-in current for these relays is only maybe a few tenths of an amp.......shouldn't be a problem for the ignition switch. We,re putting a small ( about 7" by 7" inches ) terminal board under the dash.......one set of terminals will be "ignition relay hot" and the other set will be "battery hot"........and we're making it such that we can switch any given load (eg radio) from one set of terminals to another set if we should change our mind about something. One problem we're hitting is that the dash ammeter is only a 30-0-30 unit (we think ???). So we're putting a 60-0-60 ammeter under the dash ....upstream ( electrically) of the dash ammeter . "Battery hot" loads will come off between these two units. "Ignition hot" loads will come off downstream of the dash ammeter. We didn't want to get into this but we didn't want to chance "blowing" the dash ammeter. At any rate it's not hard to add the second ammeter. We're using "period correct" wiring from Rhode Island Wiring . All of this is fairly simple wiring but it's taking us a while to incorporate all of these components....1937 Buicks weren't mean't to accommodate a lot of electrical stuff !! The heater and radio ( factory accessories ) probably at least 10 amps to base load. Other stuff we're adding will amount to maybe another approx 20 amps ( eg the primary points in the OD solenoid pull probably more than 10 amps...at least for a few moments when the solenoid first engages ) PS......is anyone wants to add an ignition relay....makes sure it is 6v not 12v Jack Worstell
  13. Dave......on our 1937 Special we are in the process of wiring up turn signals, some extra lights and...of course..the overdrive........and some other things..... Since we suspect the ignition switch was not made to handle many amps, we are adding a relay ( these are under ten bucks) that will be activated by the ignition switch. The relay in turn will supply power to: -radio -heater -solenoid relay for the OD ( but the heavy wiring for the solenoid itself will come via from the battery thru a 60-0-60 ammeter we are adding....not from this new relay) -a small 6v to 12v booster....this will supply 12v to a digital tachometer and to the cigarette lighter socket ( so we can charge cell phones Ipads etc ) This will insure that when we turn off the ignition ..... other things ( which are easy to forget ).... are turned off too. This ignition relay we are adding will handle up to 40 amps output.......plenty enough such that we might end up adding even more to it, eg the fog lights. And this set-up gives us an extra layer of protection toward preventing the OD solenoid from being accidentally powered up when the Buick is parked. Jack Worstell
  14. OK Dave Jack
  15. Joel and Dave...thanks for the help. Joel...thanks for your nice easy explanation of why it's hard to predict compression test results in a simple fashion using the compression ratio.. ..... And I've read that camshaft overlap/timing also enters into this and further complicates predicting compression test results from the compression ratio even further..... am I right in assuming the valve/camshaft timing/overlap always tends to lower compression test pressure results vs the "theory" calculated from using the compression ratio ?? (And I understand that the temperature increase happens because of "adiabatic" compression.)....... Dave.... we ran a compression test on our 1937 Special today. We where pleased to get about 110 psi on all cylinders ( except one or two were down to about 105psi So why ?............did a previous owner "shave' the head ? Or maybe installed dome pistons to replace the original flat pistons ?? ( If you get 90lbs on your 1938...which has I think 6.1 compression ratio.....then that suggests that in the past someone has done something to get our engine up to maybe 6.5 compression ratio ?????? ). I guess to get a specific answer we would have to remove the head and see what we have.........but for now we'll just accept the good results and go onto something else..........but it would sure be nice to know the compression ratio and horsepower improvements as a consequence of whatever good work some previous owner has done..... Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com