Jack Worstell

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About Jack Worstell

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  1. Dave....I guess you found halogen bulbs for both the headlights and for taillights/stoplight ? Where did you get them ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  2. Dave.......did you get halogen headlight bulbs from the outfit in Australia ? How much brighter are they than "standard" headlight bulbs ? Jack
  3. Just recently we installed red LED bulbs for taillght/stoplight on our 1937 Special......these look to be twice as bright as ordinary 1154 bulbs! http://www.ebay.com/itm/161588651951?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ( we found that "white" LED bulbs don't work out so well.......when put behind the red lenses the resulting appearance is a sort of red-orange....doesn't look right.) We haven't finished installing the turn signals yet.....so I don't know if these LEDs draw enough current to "fire" a flasher unit We only made the switch just a few days ago....but so far so good. Jack Worstell
  4. Dave...I'm guessing that you have the 12ga wire to the OD solenoid ( via the OD relay) hooked up as "battery hot".. But the power wire ( wire"A") to the relay itself... do you have it hooked up "battery hot" or "ignition hot " ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  5. Thanks Don...good info to know. I don't plan on taking the switch apart......but if it ever comes to this....I will know about the contact orientation. And I like your way of adding a cut-off switch, Jack
  6. Don....the only reason I'm adding the relay is to protect the ignition switch. so your comment about adding a relay to your car and this causing a problem with the ignition switch is disconcerting to me. The pull-in current of the relay I will be using is only a few tenths of an amp.....maybe 0.3 amps. I thought this small added load wouldn't be a problem for the ignition switch.?? By chance....do you know the pull-in current for the relay you used ?? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  7. Ken Just to clarify....not everything will get power from the new ignition relay....for example the clock. headlights, brake light, park lights, Trippe lights...., horn and maybe a few other things will stay wired as is.......ie "battery hot". Of course we could change our minds and add a few of the these things to the ignition relay circuit too, but we'll have to be careful not to exceed the 40 amp output capacity of the relay.( or add a second ignition relay in parallel...they are small...maybe a little bigger than 1" by 1" by 1" ). The pull-in current for these relays is only maybe a few tenths of an amp.......shouldn't be a problem for the ignition switch. We,re putting a small ( about 7" by 7" inches ) terminal board under the dash.......one set of terminals will be "ignition relay hot" and the other set will be "battery hot"........and we're making it such that we can switch any given load (eg radio) from one set of terminals to another set if we should change our mind about something. One problem we're hitting is that the dash ammeter is only a 30-0-30 unit (we think ???). So we're putting a 60-0-60 ammeter under the dash ....upstream ( electrically) of the dash ammeter . "Battery hot" loads will come off between these two units. "Ignition hot" loads will come off downstream of the dash ammeter. We didn't want to get into this but we didn't want to chance "blowing" the dash ammeter. At any rate it's not hard to add the second ammeter. We're using "period correct" wiring from Rhode Island Wiring . All of this is fairly simple wiring but it's taking us a while to incorporate all of these components....1937 Buicks weren't mean't to accommodate a lot of electrical stuff !! The heater and radio ( factory accessories ) probably at least 10 amps to base load. Other stuff we're adding will amount to maybe another approx 20 amps ( eg the primary points in the OD solenoid pull probably more than 10 amps...at least for a few moments when the solenoid first engages ) PS......is anyone wants to add an ignition relay....makes sure it is 6v not 12v Jack Worstell
  8. Dave......on our 1937 Special we are in the process of wiring up turn signals, some extra lights and...of course..the overdrive........and some other things..... Since we suspect the ignition switch was not made to handle many amps, we are adding a relay ( these are under ten bucks) that will be activated by the ignition switch. The relay in turn will supply power to: -radio -heater -solenoid relay for the OD ( but the heavy wiring for the solenoid itself will come via from the battery thru a 60-0-60 ammeter we are adding....not from this new relay) -a small 6v to 12v booster....this will supply 12v to a digital tachometer and to the cigarette lighter socket ( so we can charge cell phones Ipads etc ) This will insure that when we turn off the ignition ..... other things ( which are easy to forget ).... are turned off too. This ignition relay we are adding will handle up to 40 amps output.......plenty enough such that we might end up adding even more to it, eg the fog lights. And this set-up gives us an extra layer of protection toward preventing the OD solenoid from being accidentally powered up when the Buick is parked. Jack Worstell
  9. OK Dave Jack
  10. Joel and Dave...thanks for the help. Joel...thanks for your nice easy explanation of why it's hard to predict compression test results in a simple fashion using the compression ratio.. ..... And I've read that camshaft overlap/timing also enters into this and further complicates predicting compression test results from the compression ratio even further..... am I right in assuming the valve/camshaft timing/overlap always tends to lower compression test pressure results vs the "theory" calculated from using the compression ratio ?? (And I understand that the temperature increase happens because of "adiabatic" compression.)....... Dave.... we ran a compression test on our 1937 Special today. We where pleased to get about 110 psi on all cylinders ( except one or two were down to about 105psi So why ?............did a previous owner "shave' the head ? Or maybe installed dome pistons to replace the original flat pistons ?? ( If you get 90lbs on your 1938...which has I think 6.1 compression ratio.....then that suggests that in the past someone has done something to get our engine up to maybe 6.5 compression ratio ?????? ). I guess to get a specific answer we would have to remove the head and see what we have.........but for now we'll just accept the good results and go onto something else..........but it would sure be nice to know the compression ratio and horsepower improvements as a consequence of whatever good work some previous owner has done..... Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  11. If I run a compression test on a 248ci straight eight ( with, say, a 6.3 compression ratio....a factory number ) then what pressure should I expect to see from the test ? Jack Worstell
  12. Thanks to all for the "food for thought". We have installed an overdrive in the 1937 Special and by the end of the month we expect to have the wiring done, switches installed etc etc .........we will be on the road with the new OD in 3-4 weeks we think. We expect the OD to be a major improvement....but since the car only has 100Hp, we anticipate not being able to take full advantage of the OD on the freeways. So we are thinking ahead and searching out ways to get more Hp. And Dave: your point about switching the axle ratio back to the original 4.4 from the current 3.9 is well taken....it's a possibility. I suppose the ultimate answer would be to keep the 3.9 ratio and switch out the engine to a 263ci. But this is a major undertaking that I'm not sure at this point we want to get into ( even if we could find a 263ci....) Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  13. Jenz38.........I guess the head you milled by 4mm was for a 1938 248 engine with Buick "domed" pistons ? ( I think the 1937 248 had flat pistons ??) Also....your mention of insert bearings...I guess you are referring to rod bearings from a 1949 ? Or both rod bearings and main bearings from a 1949 ?? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  14. Has anyone shaved the heads on a 1937 248ci to increase compression ? Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
  15. The Egge 1938 domed pistons...if used in a 1937 248........about what will the increases in Hp and compression ratio be ?