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EmTee last won the day on October 12 2016

EmTee had the most liked content!

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About EmTee

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    Living vicariously through my old cars...

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    Center of NY State
  1. Um, sorry -- but that didn't help at all!
  2. Background: The subject of this project is installation of rear lap belts in my 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix. When this car was built front lap belts were not mandated and could be deleted by selecting the proper code on the factory order form. My car did receive factory-installed front lap belts, however, there are no rear belts. At just 2 years of age, it is already clear that my grandson has inherited ‘the car gene’. He has scores of Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars as well as larger trucks and ride-on toys. If it has wheels, he likes it. He already identifies each family member with the vehicle they drive. When he comes to visit and I bring him out to my garage he consistently heads directly over to the Pontiac and asks to get in. Since taking my grandson for ice cream in the GP this summer is predicated on being able to fasten him and his car seat securely to the rear bench, I ordered a pair of new, but original style, lap belts for installation. The following summarizes the procedure I followed to complete the job. 1. The photo below shows the floorpan structure with the rear seat removed. The problem I was faced with was how to determine where the anchor points should be located. I did some Internet research, but since my 1967 Riviera has factory-installed rear lap belts, I decided to remove the rear seat bottom from the Buick to see how GM did it. 2. What I determined from my research and by looking at the Riviera installation was that ‘dimples’ in the sheet metal just above where the floorpan joins with the brace that forms the front of the trunk/rear seat back support were possible candidates. The passenger side outer location is pictured below. 3. The spot I chose for the passenger side center location is shown below. 4. Before making large holes in my car, I decided it would be prudent to drill a small 1/8” pilot hole first so that I could confirm the location from under the car. I wanted to ensure that I could install all of the hardware, access the nut with a wrench and make sure that there were no cables, brake/fuel lines or other interfering structure. As seen below, the area was indeed clear and provided a good, flat area surrounding the anchor point. I did the same for each of the candidate locations. If I had encountered a problem, the small hole would have provided a reference point to locate a suitable spot. The small hole could then be plugged with caulking compound. 5. Below is a picture of the hardware that I installed. 6. I purchased 7/16” x 1 ¼” Grade 5 bolts and self-locking nuts. I also purchased a selection of washers, including the largest diameter fender washers that I could find. 7. I doubled the large fender washers and then included a regular flat washer then the nut. On the inside, I sandwiched the belt anchor between a pair of flat washers. So, the schedule is: bolt head/flat washer/belt anchor/flat washer/floorpan/fender washer/fender washer/flat washer/lock nut. 8. I used black RTV to seal the hole where the bolt passes through. I also applied a dab to the first fender washer installed against the floorpan. 9. Here’s the view from under the car with the belt anchor installed and tightened. 10. Below is what the installation looks like from inside the car. 11. This is a shot showing both the inner (left) and outer (right) belt anchors as viewed from under the passenger side looking forward. It is important to space the belt anchors 12 to 15 inches apart – NEVER install the two belt halves using a single anchor point. 12. Another inside shot showing the inner anchors for the right and left belts. 13. With the seatback installed, the trick is to get the bottom in place with the belts on top of the seat cushion while keeping them from slipping back and falling under the seat 14. The finished product, ready for an ice cream run! Hopefully others will find this information helpful, as the basic procedure should work on many 50's and 60's classic car. The belts are available online from multiple sources and I sourced the hardware from a local fastener wholesale outlet.
  3. Nice headlights!
  4. Congratulations! Awesome trip and you've inspired me to add this to my 'bucket list'. Regarding your last post, I was amazed by the number of pins from the Far East!
  5. ...and front bumper repair/alignment.
  6. Uh oh -- if she keeps that up it won't be long before you're both fighting for the keys! (Maybe you shouldn't have been so quick to sell Goldie... )
  7. If it's leather, it will outlast anything that you can buy new today. Look'n good -- can't wait to hear the result!
  8. Peeling clearcoat was the issue 10 years later. I remember seeing lots of mid-80's GM cars 'molting' in the late 80's/early 90's...
  9. Once again, congratulations on a nice find and welcome. In addition to Ed's advice on the horn bar, I'll add that he would also advise that you turn the battery around in the tray to get the positive terminal farther away from the hood support when closed. You have ghost flames already, so sparks aren't necessary...
  10. Hmmmm -- maybe there IS something to that saying: "Use it or loose it!" (Now, if only I could remember what it is...)
  11. If I'm ever on a scavenger hunt, I want you on my team!
  12. Sounds like a nice car -- if you like it, that's all that matters. I certainly wouldn't mind having one follow me home... https://www.hometownbuick.com/portfolio/1957-buick-roadmaster-riviera-sedan-model-73/
  13. No problem -- just grab your smart phone and start texting!
  14. Air Bags (aka: "passive restraints")
  15. I agree with Ben -- reading too 'full' is usually indicative of a poor ground to the tank sender. Try adding a jumper wire between the metal fuel line and the body near the tank and see if that helps.