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About dracenroc

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    Zurich, Switzerland

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  1. Thanks for the picture Hugh, that helps! As I can pass it forward it goes over the drive and cotter pin but I cannot see the seal by pulling it. So most probably the seal is stocked and moves forward collapsing the spring. This will also explain the remains of the greased stuff coming off. I will try again and let you know. Leif, the cap is aluminium.
  2. I can pull it forward to see the shaft. I cannot see the spring but I can feel the resistance while pulling. Installing a bearing puller and trying to pull with a sledge hammer didn't work either. What came out is something like a greased thread in several pieces...? Either I leave it in place or I cut it open and look for a spare.
  3. 1928 Buick Transmission removal - advise needed

    Thank you all for the help! The tranny is out! I just had to pull it harder with the help of a chain tackle block and I used a jack stand for transmissions. It came out when I fixed the engine to the frame again. The hardest thing was to move it around the exhaust (no, I didn't removed it before ). By bending the battery box bracket back and tilting the transmission it worked. I didn't had the time make pictures while I removed it...I needed both hands and had do hold it firmly on the stand.
  4. Thank you, that helps! I'm wondering why I can feel the backpressure of the spring. The cap must therefor be jammed somewhere at the engine side pressing the spring together when I pull it. I can turn the cap almost free, feeling a light resistance. It seem like the whole spring turns, like clipped to the cap.
  5. 1928 Master Engine identification

    Yes, thats what i figured out from the judging handbook, too. What about the color? According my information the 1928 should be a "Buick early green" but the block and transmission looks more like a "Buick (forest) green", like the one on my '38. The head is in a lighter green. Would that one be the correct color?
  6. No chance, the thing is stucked. May be bent or having some dents jamming it. Mine looks not that nice as the one from the parts book
  7. 1928 Buick Transmission removal - advise needed

    Thanks Leif. I removed the 6 bolts from the driving sleeve and the nuts(2) and bolts(9) from the flywheel housing. OK, I'll try again and pull harder. I was just not sure and won't bend or break something. Probably it was not the best idea to loosen the engine mounting bolts already, the engine is moving back instead the transmission is separating
  8. Is there trick or special movement to remove the crankshaft cap? I can pull it forward feeling the force of the spring but it will not come off. Should I use some more force? I don't wan't to break something...
  9. I'm pulling my engine to do some "cosemetics". The numbers on the tag on the crankcase shows 1'999'278 the one on the block 206'502-1 (casted) the cylinder head shows 210'586, has a four hole water inlet and a different color than the rest of the engine and transmission. Most probably a replacement the transmission shows 205'939-3 (casted) Can anyone tell me something about the identifiers of my engine?
  10. I need some advise removing the transmission of my 1928 128" Master. The rear axle is completely removed, all bolts and nuts are removed and all the other stuff connected to the tranny. I'm wondering if there is anything else I need to remove first to pull the transmission out and remove it. Do I need to remove the 6 flywheel bolts first before pulling it back? I also tried to remove the lower flywheel housing, but it seems to be hold back by the dowel pins. Thanks for any help! Werner
  11. Morten's 1940 Sport Coupe 56s

    Pretty cool! Congrats! Enjoy and take good care of her!
  12. Buick 1927-24

    Congratulations Leif!
  13. Stationary Control Bracket Help Please

    Feel free! I wouldn't say its a thirty minutes job, but its not that difficult. I did it with some kind of a "try and error method". The hard part is to bend the metal bands in a correct way so that the distance to the center and the hight fits the position of the two screws. I used material I had laying around in my shop. 2 wood connector bands and a hose clamp.To small parts of residual material are jammed between the the tube and the clamp in order to fix the brackets correctly. There might be better ways to do this. The metal connectors are enough flexible to correct wrong bent angels and try it again with a different length. Unfortunately I didn't notice the linear measures. The drill hole in the right lower corner is for no use, that part goes to the tube. Its just one of the pre-drilled standard holes on the wood connector plates. The hole for the screw is at the upper part, not yet drilled on that pic.
  14. Stationary Control Bracket Help Please

    I had the same problem, or even worse. My bracket was completely gone. If I would have your broken bracket I would try to glue it with a modern 2-component epoxy adhesive. Since mine was gone I made my own one...a simple construction, but it works.
  15. 1927 Buick air filter

    Here are to pictures, one front the parts book, the other one from the reference book.