offdensen

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About offdensen

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  1. Should only be 4 bolts or so that hold the cover on. No prep works needs to be done before removing it, just take it off and get a flashlight. Is that a 3rd gen rivi?
  2. Will consider doing this. Seems a lot better than my rudimentary lock that I made out of a cabinet lock and a piece of stainless steel. It keeps the honest honest, but that's about it.
  3. Replacing all hoses significantly reduced the rattle. Thanks all. Still curious as to what valve everyone uses, though.
  4. That is how mine looks. My brake booster connects to the front of the engine where is says Nut 100-150. I put new hoses on everything touching the T connecting to the pcv. I can go to the store tomorrow and buy more hoses for the brake booster and vacuum resovior. Idle is at 480rpm.
  5. I will stop by a parts store on the way home and try this out. Will report back my experience later tonight. I also have cruise control and there is a t in the line between the valve and the carb base, so I guess I will replace everything. Can't hurt. And to clarify, yes this is a problem when the car is running at idle.
  6. So it's normal? Just seemed pretty loud.
  7. My pcv valve is rattling on my 63 with a 401 and I was wondering what others have experienced with this? I am using one I got from oreillys. The one that was on the car was the same and I replaced it because it rattled too. At that point I assumed it was normal but now I got some time on my hands so I figured I would see if there was anything I could do about it. If the rattle is avoidable I would like to ask what part number or brand you are using? And yes, it is installed correctly. It only does it at idle.
  8. Feel like you guys should be detectives on forensic files. You can wear roa badges and everything.
  9. That about answers all my questions. Never owned a dynaflow before and this has been educational. If anyone else has anything to add feel free to
  10. I checked the idle with a tachometer I have on my timing gun and it's reading about 480 (only does increments of 10) so I think that it's good. It's not a real rough shift, but its just different than shifting into drive. Hard to explain. Shop book says 475rpms or 525 with a.c. pump.
  11. What was the design rationale behind the sudden change in the shifter being pndlr to Prndl? Also in regards to the use in tanks: nothing but the smoothest cruising for our troops.
  12. How smooth is this transmission suppose to shift? When I shift into low it won't shake but it will send the car forward, or at least it feels like it. Sometimes it does it when going into reverse too, but its not really noticable unless you are anticipating it. No problems going into drive. Knowing you can get 180k actually gives me some piece of mind. How do these last so long?
  13. So I've never owned a transmission before where reverse was last on the selector prior to this and just had a few questions about it. 1. Isn't this strenuous on the transmission to go from a forward gear to reverse without having neutral in between? 2. Is there any special protocal to using one? All I've read so far is just to use the low gear sparingly 3. How often should this transmission be rebuilt? X miles. Just a few questions I had, figured this would be the best place to ask.
  14. Was curious what one would need multiple organ transplants at the same time for. But on the topic of transplants many here would transplant a lot of the custom work done here, but what is 1 thing you would all keep? If you had to. Also how do you all feel about a dealer selling on consignment(probably) instead of the owner?
  15. One of the problems with custom work is that it's done in the image of the owner. So they need to find someone who wants that same image, which can be difficult. This work isn't permanent though