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About jframe

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  • Birthday 01/12/1970

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    Florence, Alabama

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  1. I'd like to see it finished as well, I started reading this thread back in 2012, WAY before I even owned a Riviera.
  2. jframe

    65 driveshaft

    Wow, it sure doesn't take much, lol. I will have to investigate that.
  3. jframe

    65 driveshaft

    No, no biggie. He put it back exactly how it came out after rebuilding it. My question is, should I leave well enough alone? Shop labor is 85 bucks an hour, and I bet we can't gurantee an improvement. I am thinking, since it's much better anyway, and I don't have to worry about it flying loose now, that it just wouldn't be worth the extra $$$$ to monkey with it and potentially open a bed of snakes as well.
  4. jframe

    65 driveshaft

    He said that the shaft would only go back in one way, due to a tab that acts like a locating pin. He told me it went back in exactly as it came out. To get in time, according to him, would require removing this tab and basically clocking the driveshaft till it gets smoother.
  5. Had my driveshaft redone after one u joint was discovered to have had a cup come apart. Pretty well explained my 40-50 mph vibration I was experiencing. Redid cv joints, carrier bearing, and all the u joints at a local driveline shop that does a TON of work on all kinds of vehicle driveshafts. After it was done, the guy told me that it was out of phase. Now, I had already read about that issue here, and he said that he could retime it, but it was almost like trial and error. What I read here said that these cars were built this way, on 67.5 degrees. It only shows up as a small vibration between 30-40 mph now, and it's MUCH better than what it was previously. I am thinking that I better leave well enough alone, since the driveshaft was apparently done that way from the factory, and it may screw up more than it would fix. Just wanted some thoughts on what you guys think. It really almost feels more like a wheel issue now, although the steering wheel shudders VERY little. As soon as you are past 40mph, this thing is smooth as glass.
  6. I get quizzed A LOT about the stance on my 65. Most people think I lowered it, or have worn.out springs. This photo of the King's 63 should put those questions to rest.
  7. Wow, I guess it was. Kinda a shame; I love the red, but Bamboo Cream is pretty awesome too. You don't see a lot of either color
  8. Not to throw flame on a fire, but the red with white car posted on Ebay also has the steering wheel with the silver bars on each end of the horn bar, and I think I was reading one of Seafoam's posts the other day that said these wheels were on EARLY build cars. I, like you, always thought the white interior came back on late build 65's. Be curious to know for sure; maybe the steering wheel was swapped for some reason.
  9. Good possibility, and by the time I got through Sunday doing the job, I was soaked with sweat in my garage, so I may not have properly checked them either. I was thinking it was shower and Miller time by then, lol.
  10. Well, for whatever reason, it's WORKING. Turn the ignition switch off, and bam visors close. I can turn off the lights and have the visors open now, so headlight replacement will be easier. May have been loose back at the trans connector or something; I push on the wires a little. Either way, it's apparently solved. Thanks for all your help, Winston, I think I am in business.
  11. Yep, the auxiliary is the top relay, I believe, and I put the orange/black on the terminal by itself when I installed the the two new relays, and left the other two wires in the 3 prong plug, and plugged it back into the other end of the auxiliary relay. I need to stop today at parts house; need a new test light anyway, and check it this afternoon or evening. should I check BOTH ends, or just where the orange/black hooks to the relay?
  12. So I am thinking I need to trace where this orange/black wire goes from the relay?
  13. Ok, I will look after work. It definitely has the orange/black wire going to the prong by itself now, and the other two wires of that 3 way plug plugs into the other end of the relay.
  14. I'll have to pull the battery again and take a look, or even better, a photograph. Just from memory, the relay towards the top of the fender is the one that I performed your mod on since it had the plug with the orange/black wire plugged into it. The bottom relay is the one with the blue wire plugged into the terminal by itself. I removed two four prong relays and replaced them with two new ones. Modded the upper one like you said to do, and put everything else back the way I found it. Can't unplug the blue wire; headlights will come on, but visors won't open. Plug it back up, and everything works, but visors won't stay open with the switch off. I will try to take a picture, and send it to you or post here and see what you think. The visors work well and so do the lights, but I just think those visors should stay open if I turn off the car with the headlights on and THEN push in the headlight switch.