Degerb

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About Degerb

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/20/1935

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Northern Idaho
  • Interests:
    Fishing, hunting, boating & older sars

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196 profile views
  1. Thanks Hemi..... I tried a hard plastic tool with WD40 squirted around the glass with modeling clay to help retain the fluid and all I achieved was to bend the tool tip. I really hate to try something metallic although I may be forced in that direction. Last fall I read an article posted on here where someone used a metal reflector, clamp on shop light the size of the porthole glass to soften the adhesive, it then popped off with only a small amount of prying. He neglected to say however, how large of a bulb he used in the light. I am now unable to find that particular post to contact him. Have you heard of this particular procedure?. The same author also had tried placing a porthole glass sandwich in a home oven and heated it to several hundred degrees and the the two pieces just slid apart. Obviously this would only work if the complete glass assy was removed from the top.
  2. I'm in need of a porthole window assy. Does anyone have one they are willing to part with? Mine is completely black and I'm afraid it may break when I try to remove it!
  3. I have a 1990 TC with the 16V and 5 speed. My car has considerably more use that yours. However I experienced the same problems as yours. I took the car to my local transmission shop and they attempted to free it up by fluid change WD40 etc to no avail. They then told me they thought the shifter rails internally in the tranny were corroded, causing the shifting problems. Since no one here in the States that they were aware of would work on them and the absence of available parts, would require a transmission change. I would suggest you contact Rick at RDI, he in my estimation is a Guru on these transmissions. He was able to procure a good used unit for me and now my car shifts like new. Hopefully you won't need to go to the extreme that I did! Good Luck!
  4. Barney: There also is an alternate route, If you don't really care if your Reatta is 100% original and want a reliable brake system There is a site that eliminates the Tevis pump and accumulator. The owner of the site assured me that virtually any vehicle can be adapted to this system. In short it uses the existing power steering pump as it's source of energy. I am seriously considering doing this on my '90 TC this winter since it's a nice driver car but not a concourse car. <http://powerbrakeservice.net/new-1989-1992-ford-t-bird-hydraboost-brake-booster,html>
  5. Sorry to hear you have a problem with your TC. There are a lot of guys on this site that will be glad to help you, like they did for me. But, they will need more info from you such as transmission type, Vin # and information leading up to your problem. Such as how did the problem occur... all of a sudden or something slowly over time. I hope you get back on the road soon!
  6. Does anyone know of a good PN and retailer for the rear brake pad set for my 1990 TC? I tried Arizona Parts with no success. I ordered a rear set from Amazon but the pads were 1 1/2" too long and I returned them. Now I'm kind of gun shy about ordering them sight unseen. I also tried NAPA and O'Reilly Auto Parts with no luck.
  7. Thanks Nile for the heads up! I'll be sure to have a cheater bar for sure....It's good to know about the auto parts store BUP switches. I found a NOS switch available but very pricey!
  8. I appreciate both of your insights on my BUP problem. Your picture is like an old saying.... A picture is worth a thousand words! It's now up to me to start tracing the wire bundle to find the problem. It will be interesting to find the culprit. It's not like a backup light is a safety item but It just bugs me the heck out of me when something doesn't work as advertised!
  9. Thanks Digger... I don't really know if the lights ever workedI I have had the car since April and with the tranny issues. I just never looked for something like a backup light issue. I have a pair of ramps on order so I can access the BUP switch as a start. I don't really like jack stands, paranoia I guess. I'm much more cautious now, than when I was a young buck! I guess on the bright side it's a good thing that what I have, it isn't an intermittent short!
  10. Thanks Hemi... that eliminates one source of the problem. In re checking the continuity of the Lamp assy contacts both poles show continuity to ground as well as to each other. That being said there is no voltage either. That leads me to believe the wire bundle is damaged somewhere, as I thing Digger stated probably near or on the tranny. That still however, doesn't explain to me why the fuse didn't blow.... Oh well, check and eliminate one problem at a time!
  11. Thanks Digger... I found a lamp assy at Arizona parts, it appears from their web site they will be closed down till sometime in August. I'll wait and purchase it then.
  12. Thanks guys for your input... I think I'll forgo the tranny SW troubleshooting until the weather cools a bit! I still need to know the location of my elusive BUP lamp relay though, it troubles me not knowing where something is located!
  13. Thanks Digger... One question.. do I need to remove the console to access the switch?
  14. Thanks Hemi... I was remiss in neglecting to state I have the Turbo 2.2 with the 6 speed Getrag transmission. The only relay I can see in that position is I think something called a MAPP relay for the turbo. I can post a picture if you like. The relay I have is # 5227352 and bracket # 5234627. Is it possible the 6 speed and automatic have different locations for the BUP relay?
  15. I need a little electrical help...My back up lights in my 1990 TC do not work. I have continuity between both poles of the socket, regardless of the position of the gearshift but 0 voltage showing, the fuse is OK. In checking my service manual engine compartment side shield wiring diagram, it shows a backup lamp relay located on the RH front fender well. My car does not have this relay as shown nor can I find one listed in my parts book. I also checked archived posts and found a reference on Mar30, 2004 referencing the relay and success in cleaning the contacts. Has anyone else had this problem? I think probably a dead short could cause the continuity but that to me doesn't explain the good fuse with everything else tied to the circuit working properly.