DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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About DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, Washington
  • Interests:
    Retired industrial maintenance technician. We enjoy road trips in one of the best road trip cars.

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  1. 1988 reatta engine issue

    I have never had a serpentine belt come off without some failure to cause it. About ten years ago I heard what started as a squeak and then became a screech. I tried to make it home to investigate but an alternator bearing seized and the belt then burned through and came off. Lots of smoke but nothing actually caught fire. A new alternator and belt and away I went. Check carefully all devices / bearings that the belt operates. The 3.8L engine is a very stable casting and it can take a lot of abuse in the way of heat. One day my lower radiator hose blew off at the radiator lower connection which emptied all of the radiator, all of the cylinder head coolant and half the cylinder wall coolant. I did not realize it until I got a warning message on the CRT. By then I was almost home so I drove the last few blocks as gently as I could and the engine quit just as I rolled into the driveway. I opened the hood and immediately discovered the reason why it overheated. I expected warped heads and damaged piston rings. So I let it cool off overnight and reclamped the hose and filled it with new coolant. I have seen no change in oil consumption or any other symptom. it still runs perfect. Whew.......
  2. ABS Pressure switch replacement

    Thanx for all your replies. Yes as you can see the ACDelco 25530882 switch is still available from RockAuto or Amazon. And yes those spade terminals look to be correct but I removed the insulation and ground off one side to make them narrow enough. To prevent the terminal connectors from moving or tilting I cut short pieces of cable tie plastic strips and filled all the gaps between terminals and then ty-wrapped the entire bundle. Never allow yourself to run out of ty-wraps. Silicone can be useful but this method can be reversed. Had I known that I was buying a different model switch I would have looked harder and queried this forum. You guys continue to be a wealth of info and parts. Thank you all. Anyone who comes across the correct harness connector for this switch should snip it and save it. In my area most all of the '86 thru '88 Olds Buick and Cadillacs have been destroyed. And my shoes got too dirty. Junkyards are not as much fun as they once were.
  3. ABS Pressure switch replacement

    AC Delco 25530882 pressure switch for Teves ABS systems My original ABS pressure switch has been sticking and causing both the red and amber warning lights to come on. Brake function is still good and the pressure pump cycles on and off normally as the pressure drops which leads me to believe that only the switch contacts that control the fault lights are sticking. I can reset the fault and stuck contacts by shutting the key off and pumping the brakes until all pressure is relieved and then restarting it and allowing about 25 to 30 seconds to re-pressurize the system. The pump contacts within the switch are independent of the fault contacts and therefore in my case I was able to carry on with no panic. Still it is a condition that needs a speedy fix. So most of you know that the original pressure switch is not available anywhere....at all. A couple years ago I purchased on Amazon an AC Delco 25530882 pressure switch because it appeared to be exactly the same as what I was looking at on my master cylinder. Of course when I went to change it I found that the connector pins were arranged differently. (Why did they do that??!!) I have done a local search for cars with the correct harness but I was quickly discouraged as most cars of that vintage have been sent to the crusher. So here is what I did... Small female spade connectors fit snugly on the new switch terminals but I needed to grind off one side as they were a bit too wide. On the original Reatta harness connector I found that 16 ga solid copper wire fits snugly into the harness wire sockets. I added a connector from an electronics shop for easy troubleshooting and disconnect. I verified the original wire colors assigned to the terminal letters according to the diagram on the FSM page 8A-202-22 After much checking and tracing and head scratching I have concluded that the switch diagram on page 5E1-74 of my FSM has terminals A and C reversed. The diagram should be as I have drawn below. New switch works fine connected this way and the correct harness connector was not needed.
  4. 1990 electrical issue

    Adjust the elliptical magnetics with a plastic screwdriver
  5. What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>

    Just returned from a two week road trip from Kent WA to Colorado Springs. Pike's Peak is no longer on my bucket list. Car ran perfect the whole trip including all the way to the summit at 14 ,100 feet. I was more concerned with whether or not I could breathe (barely). Linda and I stick to the back roads and scenic byways as much as possible. Whole trip was about 4400 miles.
  6. Dead Mouse in Reatta

    I have found mouse nests in the trunk of my first '89 Reatta and also in the trunk of my current '89 Reatta. Would like to know how they get in. When I pull things out they seem to easily escape. No luck with a mouse trap baited with tasty peanut butter. I believe they watch me and laugh like clowns.
  7. A/C Troubleshooting

    Gee Wally this place is really keen!
  8. A/C Troubleshooting

    Since diagnostics is entered by pressing the "off" and "warmer buttons on the '89 touchscreen, is there a way to turn on the A/C once diagnostics are entered? This is probably a "duh" cause I am too lazy to read the manual.....
  9. New headlight problem

    It is worth noting that at the end of the bellcrank travel it it stops against a rubber pad to soften the stop as the current ramps up and the electronic control shuts it off.
  10. New headlight problem

    Gee you guys are making me feel proud of my drilling skills (without a drill press)
  11. New headlight problem

    Looks like a simple and good solution. Early in my Reatta ownership days (1998 I bought my first one) I used this method to pin the output shaft to the bellcrank. That was before I discovered this forum and the availability of improved bellcranks. Thanx for all your work in this area
  12. Led set up

    Had I known that flasher was available I would have used that instead of my home made setup. Thanx for the info Ronnie. I appreciate all your input on a variety of subjects.
  13. Led set up

    This retired mechanic / electrician / tech / anal tinkerer started out on this project thinking it would be much simpler. Just swap a few bulbs right? They are so cheap and plentiful from China. Once I got into it I just could not stop. Just one more tweek ought to do it....... I even hooked up a couple timing relays so that the center stop lights would flash briefly then stay on. (Yeah I know. Maybe a bit much) In the end I have lights that are brighter and much more noticeable. Not trying to draw attention but rather I just don't want to get rear ended. I will never know if this project prevented an accident but there is now no doubt about my intention to turn or stop or whatever. Was it worth it? Not sure I would have done it if I had known ahead of time what I was getting into. Now that I am done I am glad I did it. Hopefully some of my feedback will make the job easier for someone who wants to be thorough and do the job right and end up with something that is indeed better than original from a safety standpoint.. Purists can keep their incandescent slower dimmer cheaper.............. oooh I better be careful now.......
  14. Led set up

    I posted a couple of detailed comments on your first thread. Here they are - - - I have done a lot of trial and error replacing the exterior bulbs with LED's, especially the rear STOP/TAIL bulbs. LEDs vary greatly in intensity and color. First of all you want red bulbs not white for the rear because white LEDs result in a "washed out" appearance and not very bright. I also found little difference or a lack of contrast between the tail light brightness and the stop light (turn signal) brightness. In the end what I settled on was a very bright and red LED that is very visible in bright sunlight on the STOP/TURN side. However the TAIL side was also very bright - too bright. I ended up putting a 100 ohm (20 watt minimum) resistor in series with the TAIL light circuit. This results in a brightness that is visible in daylight but not too bright. The stoplights/turn signals (I have four hooked up on each side) really get your attention. I drive day and night with the fog light button depressed at all times so other drivers see me coming. Here is a link for rear bulbs http://www.ebay.com/itm/231028588922?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT or search 1157 5630 Chip Cree LED Red and this - - - Gee I've already forgotten about the flasher problem on my '89. Yes it was over-engineered. When I started messing with LEDs I needed to remove the flasher module and study it a bit. It has separate outputs for the lights and the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster). Cut the IPC outputs and connect them directly to the bulb flasher outputs. You will then need to check your bulbs the old fashioned way - turn on the lights and look at each bulb. Another issue you may run into is the front turn signal 890 bulbs on the corner of the parking light fixtures. These bulbs serve as both parking and turn signal using a relay and a voltage dropping resistor. Full voltage and brightness for turn signal and reduced voltage to match the other parking light bulbs. The resistor is located in front of the radiator on the driver's side. I used this LED which is bright enough --- http://www.ebay.com/itm/141678643282?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I needed to increase the parking light mode resistance using this resistor --- http://www.ebay.com/itm/252614721745?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT You might want to increase this resistance because the parking light mode is still a bit on the bright side. For the small T10 parking light bulbs I used these --- http://www.ebay.com/itm/251585066822?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also to finish off the LED conversion I used these red T10 bulbs on the rear outer ends --- http://www.ebay.com/itm/301356520064?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The links to these bulbs are all in the U.S. which makes them a little more expensive but delivery only takes a few days. Has anyone changed the flasher in a '90 with a constant rate flasher? Sounds pretty straight forward.
  15. Led set up

    Wiring one of those constant rate flashers in series with the rear and front on an '88 - '89 would be problematic given the IPC and hazard circuitry. For an 88 or 89 I strongly suggest keeping the over- engineered flasher module. Remove it and locate the two wires that go to the IPC. Keep track of left and right. Cut the two wires where they exit the flasher module connector. Splice them into the left and right bulb flasher output wires. This entire operation is a bit involved and will require using the factory service manual and a certain degree of electrical trouble3shooting ability and confidence. The flasher module is located below the touch screen on the driver's side.