DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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About DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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  • Location:
    Kent, Washington
  • Interests:
    Retired industrial maintenance technician. We enjoy road trips in one of the best road trip cars.

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  1. 1991 Reatta Stall

    Fuel pump can be checked with a gauge attached to the port that is on the fuel rail. With all other accessories off you should be able to hear the fuel pump come on with the key cycling on for 2 seconds then it stops if the engine is not started. About 45psi with engine off and about 37psi running. With no codes the likely place to start is the ICM or the Crankshaft Position Sensor - CPS. Good idea to change both but change one thing at time. ICM is about $100 CPS is about $35 Both are available from local auto parts but the http://thereattastore.com/ has already researched the most reliable part numbers. Good luck
  2. Reatta Concept's

    The wheels in the first photo are outstanding. Best non-stock wheels I've seen.
  3. Possible 1989 Reatta Purchase, "Needs Brakes," Worries

    The on board diagnostics on the touch screen on '88 and '89 models were a marvel that was and still is "over the top". However as already stated there was no programming that could detect bad Ignition Control Module or bad Crankshaft Position Sensor. I carry spares and the tools to change them. Either failure will produce a no start condition.
  4. Possible 1989 Reatta Purchase, "Needs Brakes," Worries

    That's great advice on the brakes. Plenty of support in this forum. We all love to hear that another Reatta has been brought back to life.
  5. "Clashing" Sound when Accelerating

    Harmonic balancer? Mine rattles or clatters slightly when accelerating. Does the noise come from the passenger footwell area?
  6. harmonic balancer

    My '89 is a slip fit and I am glad it is. I have changed plenty of CPS's. Good that they changed to a non-adjustable CPS. Too late for us. I use a couple thicknesses of tape on each side of the slotted ring in order to align the CPS before tightening the clamp. Are there any better ideas?
  7. Reatta Fuel Injectors are 30 years old-Should they be replaced?

    It is primarily about making all six injectors behave the same. I had mine cleaned and balanced by DR Injector and it now runs VERY smooth. Pricey but a worthwhile investment.
  8. Is it actually the tranny?

    You may have more than one issue here. That highway mileage is much lower than it should be. I get about 27 highway and about 17-18 in town. I have been having some shifting issues lately and so I changed the transmission shift modulator. Easy to change, under $20 and mine shifts smoother now.
  9. What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>

    My transmission has been shifting a bit too often, too hard, too abruptly lately. Changed the modulator using the one recommended on the Reatta Resources site. Good price. All is well. Much smoother.
  10. Rear Turn Signal- Color Preference?

    The stoplight photo in the above post is actually not as scary bright as it appears.
  11. Rear Turn Signal- Color Preference?

    The selection process for tail / stop 1157 LED's was a long process because they were all purchased from China through Ebay and it took a lot of trial and error to get the right brightness. I found that with most types (and none have an actual part #) the taillight element was not much dimmer than the stop element. I ended up as I said earlier putting a resistor (about 100 ohms 20 watts) in series with the tail elements which dropped the voltage down to about 8 volts. Here are links to the 1157 and corner bulbs that I used. It will give you an idea of the watts / lumens approximately. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1157-High-Power-5630-Chip-Cree-LED-Red-Turn-Signal-Brake-Tail-Lights-Bulbs/231028588922?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCS-Red-T10-Wedge-High-Power-5630-10-SMD-LED-Interior-Light-168-192-194/301356520064?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  12. Rear Turn Signal- Color Preference?

    Lots to talk about here. My taillights have all been changed to LED's. It was a lengthy process experimenting with different bulbs to achieve the correct effect which was to stand out brighter when the brake is applied. First of all I installed a couple adjustable timing relays to the high stoplight bulbs. When the brake is applied the left bulb lights for a half second then it goes out and the right bulb lights for a half second then they both stay on. Similar to Ronnie's setup (which looks easier). Anything that flashes catches your eye. All the main 1157 bulbs are dual level LED's. They are red colored LED's because white is too washed out by the red lens. The taillight circuit needed a resistor to tone them down. When the brake is applied full voltage goes to both the tail and stop circuits and the result is bright enough to possibly be annoying.
  13. LED Replacement Headlights for Reattas?

    To 89RedDarkGrey Yes the diagram you have modified is exactly correct. You do not need to do this modification with incandescent headlamps but with LED's the resistance is too high for the door motors to retract. It does defeat the clever way of notifying the driver that an incandescent headlight is out. Hopefully we are all aware enough to notice a lack of headlights.
  14. LED Replacement Headlights for Reattas?

    The headlight motors in the down direction are grounded through the headlamp filaments. Here's what you need to do. See page 8A-102-0 in the '89 FSM On the Headlight Control Module connector C1 terminal C I cut the wire and capped the wire leading away from the HCM connector. I connected a 16ga wire to the severed wire C coming out of the plug and I ran that wire to a good ground. Up and Down then functioned correctly and the raise/lower switch also works correctly. You can do this fix regardless of what type of headlamp you are using and everything should work OK.
  15. What did you do to your Reatta today? <ongoing thread>

    I continue to maintain my first Reatta after passing it on to my son-in-law who is less mechanically inclined. The engine was dying as soon as it reached operating temp. No codes set. Usually means Ignition Control Module or crank position sensor. Changed ICM with no improvement. Changed crankshaft position sensor and still it dies at about the same temperature. Hhmmm........... Put fuel pressure gauge on it. Perfect fuel pump and pressure action. 45psi with key on then 36psi when engine runs (after cooling off again). I have seen this problem several times. TexasJohn55 mentioned a good troubleshooting idea using a timing light to watch the spark and detect a miss. I did this and sure enough it became erratic when it came up to temperature telling me that it was still either the ICM or CPSensor. Got another crank sensor at LAPS and once again it runs smooth. The first "new" CPS had been kept in the trunk of the Reatta that I drive as a spare just in case I was stranded on the road somewhere. So things could have been worse.................