telriv

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About telriv

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  1. I have the "Modern" seals in stock along with the instructions & nec. sealers to install them. Tom T.
  2. Copper/brass is FAR superior than aluminum for heat conductivity. The thing that kills copper/brass is the solder. It conducts very little heat. The tanks, all the tubes & all the fins are soldered to the tubes. Electrolysis also deteriorates the solder. All that white stuff you see on the tubes of copper/brass is called solder bloom. It's the anti-freeze mixture, corrosion inhibitors that eat away at the solder. I have that little thing that's installed that neutralizes the effects & have no solder bloom problems. An ALL aluminum radiator in this instance is now better. It's been proven time & time & over & over again. No need to try & re-invent the wheel. Just my thoughts
  3. THANK YOU for all the info guys. Tom T.
  4. Thanks for the reply Lucas, I've looked but don't see where a bigger, 1 1/4" tube is listed. As a matter of fact I don't see tube sizes listed anywhere. Are they available to your knowledge??? Tom T.
  5. Lucas, What were the size of the tubes??? 1" or 1 1/4"??? Tom T.
  6. Do a search & you'll find out what I did back in the 80's.
  7. As well as the "roundy-round guys". The big advantage at the time was up-sprung weight. Today they have lightweight aluminum components. And, the "Good" brake shoes are almost impossible to get since asbestos has been banned. Then with discs you have the brake dust problems dirtying your wheels. Paint the aluminum drums with a color of your choice & they will ALSO look good.
  8. I installed the same on my '64 in the 70's. It had an added feature it also cut out the ignition.
  9. Jim Cannon knows the correct wiring as I gave him the info directly from my car yrs. ago. Tom T.
  10. ALL of them. For a performance increase you could use a 750.
  11. If you have the DEEP pockets how about Fantom Works???
  12. It's hard to remember EXACTLY Bill, but I believe it was short on the bottom by 6"-8". You must remember that it was to stop people from getting burned by the hot air choke tube when you were working on the engine.The last 6" or so someone was not as likely to come in contact with the pipe. Tom T.
  13. Many Corvette restoration places have the CORRECT choke tube insulation.
  14. You need to remove the fuel tank & sending unit. Get a ruler & measure to the bottom & top of tank. Let's say it's 10". With the sending unit grounded & the wire hooked up use the ruler to measure the float at 5"". Should read 1/2 tank. Bend float arm so float is at 5". All most willing to bet the float arm is bent wrong & the float is hitting the top of the tank before it reads full. Just a thought.