sixxer

Called Safelite and they asked if it was tinted or clear. Tinted was a few extra days wait. Price of glass was around $450 with tax - no problems.

I’m the person RivNut mentioned. I’ve found over the years it’s easier to just tell people “it’s stock” when they ask what’s under the hood unfortunately. Ironically nobody seems to care that the previous owner ripped its original engine and trans out for a hot rod project and left it outside for 20 years in a field to rot but I “ruined” it by swapping in an LS motor.

Agree with psychostang, what weight and oil are you using and where do you live and average temp? I stick with WIX filters from Oreillys but I can’t imagine K and N performing poorly. Take a look at your engine side filter threads - does it look like it was cross threaded at any point in its life?

That Steele looks awfully similar to the Old Buick Parts seal except “puffyier” - if that’s a word? I honestly prefer cutting to make sure it fits perfect. This looks like a solid contender! Good find!

Hey buddy! One of mine was attached or maybe re-attached at some point in its life with RTV. So your mileage may very based on if someone has been in your car before or if they were trying to fix a leak or hold them together after a tear. I don’t believe they were ever glue from the factory for 63-65. I yanked mine out with pliers in a few minutes - although they basically disintegrated onto the floor haha.

While I cannot answer your question directly, I have used appropriately sized I.D. heater hose in the past with good success when the factory rubbers are missing or failing on other vehicles.

The entire market is up - I’m outta the loop in Riviera’s cause we’ve had it for years but prices are insane for classics. We used to specialize in 67-69 Camaros and they have slowly risen from 5–10k running project not even 4 years ago to 12k for a horribly rusted roller and I just saw a drivable 69 project car near me for $25k. I’ve been looking for a a 66-68 Mustang for the last couple months. Nothing special - 6 cylinder coupe, automatic, preferably not with a rusted out cowl and it seems I’m in the 6-8k range which blows my mind. I don’t understand what’s causing the buys honestly - I definitely don’t see a resurgence out on the road and car shows (at least near me) have gone down in attendance and quality. I will admit that location seems to play a large factor. On the east coast C10s from the 60s-70s are CHEAP compared to the Midwest, you could probably make a good living simply hauling cars to where the markets are strongest.

Hey everyone, I ended up going down the rabbit hole with testing two different brands of quarter window edge seals trying to find the best option and wanted to share my learnings. I'm working on a fun project of installing sound deadening all over the car. I'm then testing with decibel meter to see/hear the differences it makes trying to find the best "bang for your buck" on where to deaden but ran into a snag. Wind, water and traffic noise from the faulty weather stipping is leaking into my life and throwing off my readings. Here's what was left of the drivers side! To fix this I ordered a two different seals and decided to do a comparison of their fitment/feel/material on our 1963 Buick Riviera. I chose SoffSeal (SoftSeal) for the "brand name" since they are generally considered the standard IMO for weather stripping. I then ordered a set from Old Buick Parts because they appeared to be a generic no-name for our comparison. When it arrived the Old Buick Parts seals where labeled as manufactured by Cars, Inc. The SoffSeal is supposedly direct fit for the 63, 64 and 65 Buick Riviera while the Old Buick Parts brand fits 1964-1974 LeSabre, Centurion, Wildcat, Electra, Riviera. SoffSeal Quarter Window Seal Old Buick Parts Quarter Window Seal The SoffSeal ended up being extremely hard to fit and about and inch too short (story of my life). It is 1/8" wider than the Old Buick Parts/Cars, Inc. seal as shown in the picture above but the window still has plenty of over lap with both brands. The only way I could actually get the SoffSeal to even somewhat fit into the grove was to "point" the edges of and use lots of Windex as a lube to slide it up the channel. While car may not be the best example of stock, my old weather stripping did not the 45 degree angle at the bottom and combined with awkwardly hard installation confirmed my decision not to use the SoffSeal brand. Trying out the Car's Inc version - it was pretty much the exact opposite experience on fitment. Almost too loose. But I could cut it to fit and it was nothing 3M 08008 Weather Stripping Adhesive couldn't fix. I also liked that the Old Buick Parts seals are softer foam based rubber rather than the SoffSeal which is much more of a harder/firm rubber piece. It has made the interior much quieter while driving around and I'm sure it'll leak less water too. Here's a picture while I waited for the glue to dry. Here's the video I made about the parts - It's hard to show the softness of rubber and some of these install issues on photos. Let me know what you think and your experiences! Weather Stripping Comparison - 1963-65 Buick Riviera

Thank you for this - I know this would be for a drum car but it seems to already has more of the squared off caliper clearance I need! I'm gonna send you a PM

This is great info as ever buddy! Thats cool and exactly what I might need for either wheel setup - awesome info buddy! Amazing photos, thank you! Sorry Ed, we moved out to the east coast for my wife's job. We are like more like 16 hours and 10 minutes away from you now.

Hi everyone, I'm looking to make a change from aftermarket wheels on our 1963 Riviera to rally or stock wheels but I'm having trouble finding information on some specs. I'm looking for the inner hoop diameter for the inside of a 1964 rally wheel (p/n 1364865) or the stock 1963 steel wheel/hubcap 15" combo. I can always space out the rim to clear the Wilwood caliper face so I'm not worried about that but clearing 12" diameter rotors front and back scares me.

I have 4 wheel disk brakes and love it. Our shop ended up parking out a C5 Corvette and I snagged the front calipers off that - I’ll be grabbing a set of universal brackets to weld onto my scarebird brackets. Im mainly doing it for the look but can’t imagine it not help slow the car down even more. My car never ran with drums so I can’t answer that.

That’s crazy Ed, we didn’t even get rain and I’m like 15 minutes away from you.

Hey! We fixed the problem haha. Yeah it seemed like you might have had an issue so I just threw in what I knew about the situation. Congrats on it running good

I do LS based engine tuning and I can try explain it how I’ve seen it in action. Please take my information just as opinion, I wasn’t doing the ECU tuning on the vehicle since I’m only familiar with HP Tuner. The vehicle in question was a modified SBC 383 maybe, with a T56 swap. It had a extremely drivable camshaft and had plenty of power down low. The problem according to the owner was that it was extremely grabby and jumpy while trying to accelerate normally. He was right - the thing was practically unusable imo. We originally joked around and thought he was one of those guys that installs a 6 puck race clutch in his daily driver but after driving it we resized he had another problem. We originally looked into the vehicle throttle cable, some have complained that the Sniper return spring is a bit aggressive and you could visibly see the tension it placed on the lever from the pedal in the engine bay. We saw strange twisting movement happening and eventually ended up getting replacement bronze bushings for the pedal. This helped make the throttle more precise and not feel like you were “blindly” pushing the throttle. Probably not your problem but an interesting concern to look into. The problem of it being waaaay to jumpy down low was still there. I can’t really speak too much of what we tried to do to the ECU cause the interface wasn’t similar to HP Tuner but we approached the problem the same way we would have on a LS. We would have started pulling some timing out below, oh maybe 1200 rpm??? to see if we could make it chill out a bit. But the Sniper, in his application, was relying on a signal input from an aftermarket distributor and if we pulled timing out at idle we would have be pulling it out across the board... not a good solution. We ended up purchasing a adjustable secondary linkage to try and settle it down after researching our issue. We think we left it on the most minimal setting or maybe 1 up from the basic adjustment and worked perfect. We pulled some fuel out based on throttle position to keep it from going rich. The ECU assumes it will always have a fixed airflow but down low the linkage changes that relationship. Once that was squared away it ran like a top. This was a few years ago and since then it looks like Sniper has released a patch/selection in the tuning software work with these kits. Hope this helps!