RoadShark

It looks like I just missed out on a set of 66-67 hangers. Drat! The hangers on my car were too far gone. Soon (hopefully) I'm going to put up the TA 2-1/2" system. Does anyone have recommendations on hangers? I'm open to non-stock solutions too, if that's an option. Thanks - Bill

Thanks. I can't believe I had a brain f*** like that. The pins go between and the bolts in the holes. Duh. The two I rag joints I bought have different grounding arrangements. One has a stamped sheet metal piece that goes over one pin and is held by both bolts. The other has a twisted piece of sheet metal that goes from one pin to one bolt.

The steering shaft on my 67 has two different sized holes for the pins on the "rag joint". I've ordered new couplings from two sources (it's been a while - I can't remember where) and they both have same-sized pins. Then size on the new couplings is too big for the smaller hole in the end of the shaft. Does anyone know where to get the correct coupling?

Be sure to check the service manual. There is a phase angle requirement between the two shafts. I can dig it out if need be... Edit: see figure 40-78 "Propeller Shaft Phasing", Section D of the manual, page 40-47.

This was POR-15:

Looks like there's some real estate freed-up in the lifter valley....

An dual-quad adapta-plate on a modified cross-ram and you can run both!

Thanks for the before-and-after results. I'd change my oil after that. I've heard that stuff is hard on oil and this probably gave it a good opportunity to get past the rings.

Excellent info. Thanks. I went with the Bilsteins for mine. I've had good luck with them on other applications in the past.

Wow. Looks like plenty of room. Driveshaft didn't need to be shortened?

You just wait. I'm rigging up something like this in the Riv and I will be 24/7/365 cruising around here...

Ed -will the TH200 fit in the X-frame without interference?

Some more info here: https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/9-3-8-rear-differences.71740/ As others stated, the only parts that interchange with 9 3/8 is other 9 3/8. The only market is used except for a stray NOS piece here and there... Personally I wouldn't go through the work to change an existing rear from 3.07 to 3.23. Not enough noticeable difference and anytime you change gears in a rear like this you need the specialty tools for setting pinion depth. You might be better off looking for an entire differential with posi and gears you like.

It's a GM "pos-traction" type with clutches and springs. Here's a picture of a '67: As far as swapping gears, (assuming you have the correct series carrier) the most difficult part is setting pinion depth and this can require specialized tools. Then there's backlash and patterns. Bearing preload if you've changed carriers or bearings. It's not a casual endeavor. I set-up a 12-bolt truck rear from scratch. It took some patience.

Thanks - that's helpful.

Very interested in this. Where is the fuel pump mounted? Does it make a lot of noise?

We've all seen the documentary evidence of the havoc these things can unleash:

With the Riv being my first Buick, I've now owned most of GM's brands, except Olds. I've mostly had Chevys and like them, but I want a Buick engine in my Buick... That said - it looks like somebody did a nice job with that car.

Might want to read this thread for information and inspiration: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/279073-rebuilding-my-69-gs/

Man, you did a lot of work and it came out nice. I love that color.

So in a panic situation you don't mash the brake and the gas pedal?

Whoops. Reading is Fundamental. Missed that.

I'm not an expert on what's available for steering boxes, but I think all bolt-in boxes, regardless of ratio, will have the same external dimensions. I had to heat the headers up with a torch and pound a clearance dent in them where they contacted the steering box ear.