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ChrisWhewell last won the day on September 22 2016

ChrisWhewell had the most liked content!

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About ChrisWhewell

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  • Birthday 10/16/1960

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    Georgetown, Texas

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  1. What do you like and/or dislike about the Reatta?

    I like the body style. Second, the visibility afforded by the rear window with respect to what is normally a "blind spot" is great for safety. The biggest negative for me is that the engine is missing about 50 ft lbs. of Tq, and there's no easy upgrades to perf.
  2. Woo-hoo, after 3 years, I finally pulled the thermostat, yep, its been stuck open from Day 1. Its nice to have a little warm air blowing in the wintertime :) Edit: Let me add.... when I went to put the gooseneck (a.k.a. "coolant outlet housing") back on with the new t-stat in the manifold, the gooseneck would not seat fully, about 1/8" gap. Thinking, sometimes these things need help, I used a wooden rod and tried to whack it down with a hammer. Ever so gently that is, I have the "touch" and know about how hard one can hit these things w/o inflicting harm. After several attempts, I decided to pull the new T-stat out and just try seating the gooseneck on the manif. without the t-stat present. Yep, it went right in, all the way, fully. The issue was a little rubber o-ring or seal, etc., on the gooseneck itself, where it interfaces with the t-stat. I removed that rubber, installed the t-stat. and voila, was a happy camper. Drove 80 miles and no leaks, its like the gentlemen said, that single bolt that holds the housing only needs be tightened "snug" and if the o-ring is doing its job, you have no worries. So, I suggest checking re-install that the housing goes onto the manif. easily, if it doesn't, the interference might be the o-ring that's internal to the gooseneck
  3. Engines that would "work" in the Reatta

    in the video below you can see at 2:08 mins, the dude has got a 3-angle cut, but you also see the ridge or "wall" I mentioned. I wouldn't do a valve job this way, rather, I do each cut manually, start with the throat cut, then the top cut, then the 46* seal cut last. Otherwise with these machines I believe way too much material is un-necessarily removed, lowering compression and detrimental to flow, the idea for me was to remove as little material as possble but still be in spec. Yea, I used a dremel to remove the "wall" after I made the 3 cuts on each - easy to slip and ding your nice new seat surface, so must have a very steady hand and lots of patience. Its actually borderline insanity, but the transition from the cc to the seat on my heads is smooth as a baby's cheeks. I think low lift flow is "where its at" Edit: in my opinion his seats are too deep. And cutting the seats is only the beginning. Next comes bluing up the valve and inserting it into the guide and rotating it back and forth a few degrees as you press it against the seat. Then, remove and look at where the contact is on the face of the valve. If its not in the right location along the face, then its back to grinding. Most shops won't do this, it takes too much time. Typically have to re-do each seat a couple times to get it perfect. The exhaust side is especially important, if the seating surface isn't at least about 040, I thin k there's a good chance of some valve burnage opportunitie, which means a sad day in the future. Remember, all the heat transfer from that hot exh valve only occurs intermittently, that's super important since even one bad exh seal surface means pulling the head. In fact, on my truck that's why I had to pull the heads, some shop didn't do it right and the valve sunk. Replaced it with a vortec heads :) Those are some of the best. The LT1 gen II were tricky because of intake port wall thin ness issues. On these Reatta's I'd be happy with just going to a bigger valve, that does alot in itself. Edit #6 - sorry, this aaca website got an upgrade beginning of this year and I can't post photos using my Mac. I tried my windows 7 box but that won't work either. These computer folk are always upgrading, but things don't seem to get any better, same as gov. Ppl should learn to be happy with what they have, instead of trying to go after things they don't, so said Glen Campbell :)
  4. Engines that would "work" in the Reatta

    The equipment isn't that expensive from You can cut the seats manually, as I did on three sets of V8 heads. A V6 would take a lot less time. Doing them manually lets you get every seat - perfect - , the important part is to make sure the width of the seat is the correct width on the valve, and also at the right location on the valve. I used a jeweler's eyepiece and a bunch of prussian blue and it took me a long time but was worth it. I learned everything I know from David Vizard. 3-angle cuts and I used stock performance valves having backcuts and undercut stems. The best opportunitie for gains in low lift flow are around the circumference of the seat where it blends with the cc, there is usually about a 0.3-0.5 mm "wall" there. I didn't measure flow, but was pleased with the results, it improved the vette alot, and my old truck is a torque monster. I can't imagine anyone could have done a better job on all of them. Vizard used to have hisstuff available on the web 15 years ago, real high tech physics but clearly explained why most ppl who "port" make mistakes, but I'd like to think by now places like Elliotts and others have it down. Cool stuff.
  5. Engines that would "work" in the Reatta

    oh, and add some beads of weld to the cc's, kick up compression to about 9.5 - 10, and run premium fuel. All I really want is about 230 ft lbs of Tq, that would really make me smile and I think totally do-able, provided I can find some cyl. head that is friendly. I have all the tools to do the valve job, so that's no problem. Can even put in new bronze guides and use 8mm stems, so valve choice isn't limited. Contemplated going to a slightly higher rocker ratio, but they seem scarce and expensive. ugh, need to do more internet "research" :(
  6. Engines that would "work" in the Reatta

    thanks for the photo of the cc. wow, there isn't much room in there. The second posting in the link below seems to imply that 1.8" intake valves from an SII engine would go in.... It would be nice if I could just grab some GN heads and slap them on the Reatta, but I suspect that won't work. It would be nice if there were some V6 heads that would bolt right on, which would accommodate 1.94's !!! but that is probably asking too much :) 1.5's on the exhaust side would probably be plenty
  7. Engines that would "work" in the Reatta

    anybody know off the top of their head, what the largest intake valve size the combustion chambers will accommodate ? I tried looking it up but can't find anything
  8. Intake air box 1990 Reatta

    $65, includes shipping in the continental USA.
  9. Engines that would "work" in the Reatta

    Somebody should pick a motor setup, and make a kit available to easify the swap to a better performing engine. From all the reading I've done, the best I can come up with is heads/ manifold, and clear the restriction out of the rear exh. manifold. Total gain maybe 35-40 ft. lbs. Anything more than that, is beyond my abilities. But, I'd shell out $2500 - $3k if there were a kit offered that would enable me to drop in a series II SC 3800, if it were plug n play.
  10. air cleaner top.

    I hit a deere recently, messed up the black polymeric housing in which the headlamp resides pretty badly, like broke into pieces. So, I got some steel window screen and cut several appropriately-shaped pieces of it and used them as reinforcements for the epoxy I'd had to use in several places. Amazingly, all the holes lined up to where they should !! So, I recommend reinforcing the epoxy, kinda like the screen acts like rebar. I wonder how it will hold up to the Texas heat.... we'll find out come april. Maybe I should be concerned how it holds up in the cold.... we'll find that out pretty quick here...
  11. 1992 Light Switch from a Riviera

    ok, I get it now. Get the Riv headlamp switch from the years you mentioned, and rob the pieces and parts out of its guts to use to rebuild the '90 headlamp switch. I'd be surprised if the internals aren't common btw the two
  12. 1995-1999 Riviera Wheel Center Cap

    I like those chrome Riv. wheels, had them on the first Riv I owned. Worst case, get the centercaps for the Riv, they look great and have a fancy R on them that matches the Reatta R, since they both start with an R, no lay person will ever know. But we will.... lol I think the orig. Riv. centers are hard to find though. Definitely the Reatta center caps won't match, they're too much of a matte finish
  13. What a Horible Shame

    Sorry if I upset anyone, i realize people are a lot more "sennnnsitive" than back in my day. Good luck !!
  14. Car cleaning tips

    Thanks. I have a spare extra second 1990 reatta in the barn, same color. I can take the fender off that one. I'm wondering if this is a 2 hour job, or a 12 hour job, to remove a front fender from a Reatta, because I obviously am the type of intuit person who plans ahead :) ps, I'm running on a Mac, I passionately dislike Microsoft products. :)