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ChrisWhewell last won the day on September 22 2016

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About ChrisWhewell

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  • Birthday 10/16/1960

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    Georgetown, Texas

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  1. I bought this car as a spare parts car but have changed my mind !! So I'm selling it, asking $750. The windshield is hopelessly cracked. The hood won't stay open without a proprod. One of the fenders makes the passenger door make a noise when you open it. Body is fair but no major accidents apparent. Here's the good: Engine is good, has 100k but the guy I got it from drove it 30 miles to get it here last year. The door skins and switches are all good. The headlight switch is good except the dimmer slider is loose. Both headlamps flip up and down ok. The Teves system works, apparently accumulator is ok. Transmission is also good no apparent issues. body side trim is good, trunk liner is good, Car is driveable. I have 4 hubcaps for it, one is not so good, the other three are pretty good. Rear tail light plastic cover is oxidized. The AC works just fine. Oh, and the tires are 90% and aren't that old. Location is Georgetown Texas and I have title in hand. If nobody wants it, send me a serious request for parts and I'll give you a decent deal if you need something, but I need to at least break even on this. What's a good running LN3 worth ?? Its not burning any oil. Oh, which catalytic convertor is on these ? Is it the one they give you $125 for ?? Probably has good brake leads also. I just need the space, otherwise I'd keep it. But, I'm also getting lazier in my old age, too much other stuff going on. I hate to get rid of it, but ... now's your chance, get me before I change my mind again !! The main display also works. use email to contact me agent
  2. Thanks ! I sent you an email. It'll be cool to have the original fob working
  3. That's a tough question, lots of unknowns. It could even be that the bacterium cause water to separate out over time, if there's enough of them and their metabolism involves them pissing water, like we urinate. I think one needs to be careful, due to all the federal laws, what they recommend others to do, so I don't recommend anyone do anything. A few thoughts I'd put forth for researchers might be to use a little tetracycline or penicillin. Or perhaps an alkyl halide such as paradichlorbenzene. Possibly d-mannose might inhibit the bacteria's ability to stick to the sides of the tank. Or, alternately, glyceryl monolaurate (monolaurin). Yes, if I were a researcher, I'd definitely look into monolaurin as an additive. But, one issue is to not clog the fuel filter. In one extreme sense, chlorine bleach would work but probably corrode some components. A peroxide might be a good candidate, such as the urea peroxide in whitening dental pastes. I really don't know the answer, probably best to just go with what's been EPA approved and is on the market already, like the one you'd suggested. It would be nice to find the identity of the active ingredient and buy it in bulk to save money so we're not getting nickeled and dimed to death.
  4. E10 can hold about 15 milliliters of water per gallon before phase separation occurs. But E10 is typically about 8.8% ethanol, so a gallon of typical E10 can hold about 12 ml of water. Once separation occurs, the E10 in the upper layer is saturated with water, which means any further absorption of more water due to condensation will precipitate out. This pretty much suggests to me that pump gas already contains substantial water. There are bacteria that live in gasoline, and they do better for themselves when water is present. Many bacteria, including thiobacilus ferrooxidans, thrive on sulfur also, which is present in gasolines to some extent. The bacterium cause oxidation / reduction reactions to occur, so I suggest that perhaps once a colony gets established in the vehicle's tank, the bacterium are what is causing the tank corrosion. If this theory is correct, which seems likely, the answer is to use a biocide in the fuel tank every so often.
  5. I've had this gas smell also, haven't been able to figure it out. It would seem that the carbon canister is the only thing open to the air
  6. I found a key fob transmitter in my trunk for my 1990, but,it doesn't have a back on it. It looks like it would be about the size of a quarter and made of plastic, you put the battery in and then that cover goes over it. I need the cover. . Also, looking for a good source for vats key blanks for 1998 Riviera if anyone has any suggestions or anybody on here sells them. Thank you.
  7. MTBE is awesome. ARCO had extra t-butanol from its propylene oxide plant in Alabama in the early 70's so they reacted it with MeOH and made MTBE, and began selling it to refineries, who used it about 5 years before EPA found out. Then ARCO filed for a waiver and it was granted. Perfect additive. The ignorant crybaby legislators who banned it did so because of "leaking tanks", MTBE in the water supply. What a load of hogwash - if underground tanks are leaking, the remedy is to fix the tanks. It wasn't just MTBE leaking, it was gasoline, which also contains benzene, so those political whackos again make no sense. An executive of Ethyl Corp gave a speech to some of us students once, talking about how the bad guys were trying to get ethanol into gasoline for a long time. The problem with ethanol gasoline, is that the headspace in the tank can easily be in the range of explosibility limits, whereas when using MTBE, or even normal gasoline, it is not. Ethanol in fuel is a ripoff, nobody likes it except the people who are selling water as gasoline. I should teach the rednecks how to recover the alcohol. For $2 a gallon at 10%, you could get 12 ounces of 190 proof, which if cut with water to 95 proof would provide one fifth of "vodka", plus you can return the other 90% to the tank. Maybe if backwoodsers started making hooch from this crap gasoline they're now selling, it would force the industry to go back to normal fuel. Not. lol
  8. My '56 Ferguson F40 tractor has the old school water separator glass bowl between the gas tank and the carburetor. I noticed it was half full of water a month ago, so ran the tank dry and cleaned the glass. Then I got new fresh gasoline and now a month later I go out and look and its half full of water again. So, the ethanol gasoline comes with water in it. I think the max spec is on the order of 0.3% water. Imagine, if you could reap the profits by adding just 0.1% water to the entire nation's gasoline supply, how much money that would be. Meantime, in the Reatta, the same problem is present as on the tractor, but for the recirculation of the fuel pump back into the tank from the fuel rail, so we really don't notice it, except if you have a crap idle quality, that could be the problem. I've been adding isopropanol to my car's tank. Luckily I don't drive much. The refineries owners suck, giving us sh*t gasoline.
  9. Yes Padget, that is a great motor, in my opinion the epitome of Chevy for the late 80's / early 90's. I got it for my son when he graduated, it wasn't running. It turned out to be the ign module. But, it was factory-located up front under the exh. manifold. That sucked so much, I moved it to be located in the fenderwell. Great motor. When I was a kid watching star-trek, I remember Mr. Spock once said to a Klingon: "Threats are illogical" and never forgot that. So whenever someone threatens to leave, I just reply "Live long and prosper" Millenial-type drama has even "trickled up" into national politics it seems. eeek. I joined the IDGAD club a couple years ago. That stands for "I don't give a.... :)
  10. Upgrading to GM from the Magnavox is easy. The hardest part was getting a base plate from a later model car at the junkyard. Get the nuts too. Any module from a V6 should work. The one in my Reatta came off of a 93 Olds with a 3.4L DOHC motor, which is the same part as on my 98 Riv.
  11. My eyeglasses are polycarbonate and they got a little solvent on them, which clouded them. I tried toothpaste, and the stuff they sell for headlamps, and I watched every amateur on the internet youtube videos with their fixes but none worked. I finally figured it out - I used my jeweler's polishing / buffing wheel and chucked it onto my bench grinder. Then, using jeweler's rouge, I polished my lenses. Perfectly clear. So, the answer for headlamps polycarbonate if I ever go there, would be to chuck that buffing wheel into a drill, sop it with a little rouge and go at the headlamps.
  12. @2seater "Funny this should come up now. I am working on resurrecting a couple of scrap heads I received from Daves89. The stock intake valve is 1.71" and there is about .062" space between the intake and exhaust valves. So, it would appear about a 1.82" intake valve would fit. The ports on these heads aren't bad on these engines and respond well to minor porting and cleanup work. I think the 10* valve angle helps a lot. I am experimenting now with back cuts on the intake valve and a 15* and 30* cut on the back are worth a few cfm, particularly below .250" lift. The exhaust port is very good stock, just clean it up." . I agree there is much left on the table regarding low lift flow, typically a ridge or wall in the comb. chamber circumscribing the periphery of the valves. Ihave a spare complete LN3 in my parts car and hate to tear into it just for the heads, so I'm starting to wonder what other heads might be a direct drop in with no BS respecting brackets and other anciallary features. Maybe nothing and I'll just have to find some junk LN3 heads to work on. I use Neway cutters, a jeweler's eyepiece and I get every seat width perfect and also right where it needs to be on the valve. Takes a lot of time and blue dye. Can't get that easily from the machine shops. It takes a lot of time but I get them perfectamundo. Backcutting the valves is an easy few HP a lot of folk don't know about. You can also put a little swirl on the back of the valves with heavy grit sandpaper prior to doing the back cut. I like to get the roughs out of the combustion chambers too, esp. around the plug. I just did a set of LT1 heads for a guy, waiting for him to put it back to gether and report - those are the absolute best heads on the planet
  13. Yep, that was a great job that fellow did on rebuilding the LN3. What I got most from it, is that the most I'd be likely to do is cylinder head work - I got to be expert at it. Re-worked heads, clean the exhaust restriction out the rear manifold, upgrade the injectors and do a little programming. I used David Vizard's techniques. I'd imagine I can get it close to 200 HP.
  14. Yes, John Banner at FIC sold me bosch's I used on my corvette. The junk set I put in the Reat today were from a local craiglister who claimed they were good injectors. The engine wouldn't even idle with them unless I revved it. I felt the exh manifold and two of the cyls weren't firing at all and a third was barely warm. I have a spare LN3 I'll someday pull the heads from and do a porting and valve job on it and clear the restriction from the rear exh manifold, that should help alot. I wonder what the largest valves I could get to go into a stock LN3 head.... For those interested, this dude did a lot of work
  15. Thanks alot. I just went and put a rag under the thing, relieved the pressure at the schrader and pulled it off and later mopped up the gas puddle in the manifold. Woo hoo, I put new old 2001 Bosch injectors from a ford explorer in it, and it ran like shhhhttttt. So, I put the original injectors back in, on a second disassembly process. Yes I like doing things twice, sometimes four times. Lesson I knew long ago, never use ford parts in a GM car, I guess I had to relearn that. Well, at least I cleaned the old injectors and put new o-rings on them. I smelled a little gas ever since I got the car 2 years ago, so maybe I actually accomplished something today. The stock injectors have four tiny holes in them, so maybe they're not all that bad but I wish they were more than 18.55 lbs/hr. I think 22 would be optimal