SpecialEducation

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SpecialEducation last won the day on August 21 2016

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About SpecialEducation

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    BOP Fo' LIFE!
  • Birthday February 2

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  • Location:
    ...*sigh*...kansas...
  • Interests:
    Building Stuff

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  1. Hi, Steamy Florida Bill! I must say you've got great taste in cars, that's a nice looking stable. I may have to swing by for a visit the next time I'm in Florida!! 😁
  2. Can you tell me what check valve are you using?
  3. https://www.hometownbuick.com/shop/
  4. API CI-4 (better) or CJ-4 (good) oils will do just fine and are readily available. While they are marketed for diesel engines, many also meet SM or SN specs for gas engines, too (although that's not real important here). CK-4 oils may not protect your cam from the lifters as well. Be careful of CK-4s that say they are compatible with CI or CJ. That doesn't mean they are as good as the earlier specs. If the engine is not worn and maintains good oil pressure with your straight 30w oil, than any _W-30 should do fine. The first number isn't as important as the second. Forget brand names, only look at performance specs. That said, I recently bought a gallon of Castrol GTX for $9.99 that met CJ-4, CI-4, and SN specs. There are several Shell Rotella variants, and currently the T5 blend meets CJ-4, CI-4 and SM specs. This is always subject to change, though...
  5. The sharp turn is inertial separation. It does better to catch particles with more mass. Less mass = less inertia = easier to change direction and be ingested. 1956 also started out with an open screen in the hood ornament that would allow air & debris to enter the engine compartment. Buick decided mid-year to replace the screen with a solid plate painted to look like a screen to reduce the debris being ingested.
  6. I've found lots of anecdotal discussions on this forum and others, but no hard research showing the filtration level difference. From my days as a propulsion systems engineer, I know that typically debris is responsible for more cylinder wear than the metal/metal contact. We are not looking to win speed or efficiency contests, so preserving the engine is the #1 priority here. Lower manifold pressure = less power, so if Beemon has observed more vacuum, that would be consistent with restricted flow, but there are other factors to consider: It is very dusty in Kansas, particularly this time of year. Oil bath maintenance is messy. Good quality paper filters can be blown out and reinstalled in minutes for free...
  7. Ran across this in salvage the other day... it made me sad.
  8. Well, alcohol was still standard in early '56. "Permanent" antifreeze was an option mid-year.
  9. I donno, what does normal look like?
  10. Because fuel pumps never fail at the END of the season... Anybody running a truck pump on their Buick? We've never had our original pump off, we just keep replacing the top diaphragm. They last longer now that we avoid ethanol, but they still don't seem to last more than a couple years. Parts store doesn't have any 1956 Buick pumps, but they do have NEW 1958 GMC 322 pumps for $50. Not worried about the vacuum side, but the fuel in & out are clocked different... Thoughts? Glad to see the forums still hate unedited iPhone pix, too!
  11. Looks like someone was inspired by Jeff Brock's Bombshell Betty...
  12. Funny, my wife knows one of those, too...
  13. I didn't think he looked much like a Kristyna... welcome to the forum. Where are are you located? Maybe we can find some locals for you to associate with, too!
  14. For the external similarities in 55-57, it's amazing how much difference there is underneath. '56 has a lot of OYO parts, where 54 & 55 shared a lot of stuff, and 57 & 58 has some commonality. That said, there's still pretty good availability on most things, so get what you like and we'll help you work through it.