tkeiser1

Members
  • Content count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About tkeiser1

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
  1. tkeiser1

    a/c conversion

    Thanks, I'll check them out.
  2. tkeiser1

    a/c conversion

    I guess I've got some homework to do!
  3. tkeiser1

    a/c conversion

    Yep, was planning to flush other components. Thanks for the tip on the STV. I'll try to find a kit. Tom
  4. tkeiser1

    a/c conversion

    Tom, The screen was totally clogged, brown gunk, probably a mixture of debris & rust. I'm concerned about the STV as well. However, the line out of the evaporator seemed pretty clean, whereas the line in drained gunk out. So I'm hopeful. I'm new to all of this . . . how can I check the STV while I have the system apart? Tom
  5. tkeiser1

    a/c conversion

    No, didn't pull it, but it's working fine. All of the vacuum components checked out for functionality. Plus, having now removed the evaporator, I can visually check it. I'll look more closely before reinstalling the evaporator . . . it may need some lubrication.
  6. tkeiser1

    a/c conversion

    Yes, I remember how cold the air was in some of those early cars. I remember one lincoln that was creating frost inside. Unfortunately, the system on my 63 was already converted so I don't have much of a choice. From the condition of the various components, my guess is that they changed over to R134a, changing the schrader valves and installing a new receiver dryer. However, the expansion valve was so corroded that I can't imagine it was very functional at the time, if at all. (This car only has 63,000 miles on it and has hardly been driven in the last 30 years, so the ac wasn't used much. Certainly not long enough to clog an expansion valve like this one was clogged.) I ordered a new valve, but it isn't the right one. Per Jim Cannon, the Riv expansion valves on the 63 have been lumped in with all other full size buicks in the catalogs, so no one knows that it's different from the rest. The old one has a #6 thread on the outlet while the new ones have #8. I got someone to make an adaptive fitting, but it may be too long to squeeze into the box. I ordered another expansion valve that looks like it might work. If not, I'll just make the first replacement one work one way or another. Once that's in, it will be interesting to see if the STV is functioning well. I hope I can get this done in time for some cool rides this summer.
  7. tkeiser1

    a/c conversion

    Sorry for the delay in responding. I thought I had set this forum to receive notifications of replies, but obviously something went wrong (like many of my repair attempts). 1965rivgs: I figured that out from the pressures that the expansion valve was clogged. The low pressure was actual negative, indicating that the compressor was sucking. Red Riviera Bob: Amen! The vacuum system was the first thing I worked on. One diaphragm was broken. The control wires weren't set properly. The cold air blower control was disconnected, vacuum hoses were dry, cracked and hooked up wrong, etc., etc. I was thrilled to finally get all of that now working satisfactorily. I'm still concerned about whether the system was really upgraded to R134a properly. The shrader valves were changed and the receiver dryer was obviously brand new. However, when I took the evaporator out and disconnected the expansion valve, it was obviously the original, and very very clogged. My current issue is that I ordered a new expansion valve, which was supposed to be an exact fit. However, the outlet is #8 thread whereas the old one was #6. Now I have to figure out how to make that connection. I had someone make a fitting for me (which I haven't received yet), but I'm concerned about the fit, since it is 2 1/2" long and it appears that I only have 1 1/2" to play with inside the box. Once I resolve that issue, I'll move to the next step. (I'm mechanical, but not a mechanic, so I'm learning about everything as I go along. And, like you, I will persist until there's no more options. Incidentally, I spent the first 48 years of my life in Balto/Towson, and frequently return. One of these days I'll drive up my Riv and we can compare!)
  8. My 63's ac doesn't work. I've resolved a number of issues, and am now working on replacing the clogged expansion valve. However, the question I have is whether or not the following assumption is correct or not. The ac has a new receiver dryer, and the low pressure and high pressure valves have been converted to the new sizes. I'm assuming that this means that someone has already converted the system to R134a. Is this a valid assumption?
  9. I'm slowly working through the various issues with my 63 Riv. One of the concerns is that the instrument panel lights seem very dim, and only visible when it is fully dark. The problem is that I don't know if I'm just conditioned by modern bright instrument panels and this is the way things were back then, or if I have an issue. Can anyone provide some insight?
  10. This post is long overdue . . . I replaced all of the hoses and PROBLEM SOLVED!!
  11. Will do. Thanks for the advice. (I'm feeling my way along with this stuff.)
  12. Thank you. That's a big help to know exactly where to go. Can it be cleaned out or does it need to be replaced?
  13. I'm still working on it, but there were/are all sorts of issues. I've replaced the intermediate rod and brake rod bushings. That dramatically decreased the severity of the pull due to the tightening of the steering. But the pull remained. Then I replaced three wheel cylinders and the master cylinder (still waiting on the last wheel cylinder to come in). The master cylinder was rusty and one of the wheel cylinders was unbelievably corroded (see below). My next task, after replacing the last wheel cylinder is to clear the brake line to the back brakes. There is a restriction in the line somewhere. The rear brakes don't completely release immediately and when bleeding they require a great deal of pressure (almost have to stand on the pedal).
  14. Thank you all for the help. The more I think about it the more I think it's the steering. Since the center link is definitely bad I'm sending that out to be rebuilt. The brake rod bushings are also bad so I'll be replacing them. Hopefully, when I get it all back together the pull will be gone. If not, then it's on to the brake line. I'll let you know what happens. Tom
  15. On the braking pull . . . I'm confused by the fact that the pull is sudden, strong, but immediately disappears as the braking process continues. I was thinking of a bad wheel cylinder, but after replacing it and thoroughly flushing the system, the problem was actually more acute. I thought of the internal restriction you mentioned, but wouldn't flushing the system have either revealed a restriction or cleared it out?