tkeiser1

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About tkeiser1

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    Chesapeake, VA
  1. This post is long overdue . . . I replaced all of the hoses and PROBLEM SOLVED!!
  2. Will do. Thanks for the advice. (I'm feeling my way along with this stuff.)
  3. Thank you. That's a big help to know exactly where to go. Can it be cleaned out or does it need to be replaced?
  4. I'm still working on it, but there were/are all sorts of issues. I've replaced the intermediate rod and brake rod bushings. That dramatically decreased the severity of the pull due to the tightening of the steering. But the pull remained. Then I replaced three wheel cylinders and the master cylinder (still waiting on the last wheel cylinder to come in). The master cylinder was rusty and one of the wheel cylinders was unbelievably corroded (see below). My next task, after replacing the last wheel cylinder is to clear the brake line to the back brakes. There is a restriction in the line somewhere. The rear brakes don't completely release immediately and when bleeding they require a great deal of pressure (almost have to stand on the pedal).
  5. Thank you all for the help. The more I think about it the more I think it's the steering. Since the center link is definitely bad I'm sending that out to be rebuilt. The brake rod bushings are also bad so I'll be replacing them. Hopefully, when I get it all back together the pull will be gone. If not, then it's on to the brake line. I'll let you know what happens. Tom
  6. On the braking pull . . . I'm confused by the fact that the pull is sudden, strong, but immediately disappears as the braking process continues. I was thinking of a bad wheel cylinder, but after replacing it and thoroughly flushing the system, the problem was actually more acute. I thought of the internal restriction you mentioned, but wouldn't flushing the system have either revealed a restriction or cleared it out?
  7. How do I fix the center link which I removed for inspection? The Pitman arm pin has a broken plastic sheathing preventing a tight fit on the Pitman arm. (This pin moves freely). The idler arm pin, on the other hand, has no plastic sheathing (broken off? not designed with it?) and is frozen. I checked online and a replacement is quite expensive (~$300). I greatly appreciate the help on this, as I've never worked on steering linkage.
  8. Thanks for the tips. They will be helpful when I get the linkage back together. Any insight on the intermediate rod question?
  9. History: The car has a severe immediate but temporary (less than a second) pull to the right on braking. I've checked the operation of the brakes, flushed the system, checked alignment, tire pressures, etc. etc. When checking the steering linkage I came across the following problem. Problem: I noticed an unusual amount of play in the pitman arm ball stud which I couldn't eliminate due to some apparent obstruction. I removed the intermediate arm and discovered that the pitman arm ball stud had what appeared to be broken plastic sheathing. This is not present on the idler arm ball stud. Additionally, the pitman arm stud moves as a ball joint but the idler arm stud is stationary. This the first time I've taken apart any steering linkage and don't know how the intermediate rod studs are supposed to function. Can someone please explain it to me, and also advise as the the proper fix? (Thompson type) Thanks much, Tom
  10. Does anybody know where I can obtain a water pump seal assembly for a '63 (401 Nailhead)?
  11. tkeiser1

    Carburetor Help

    Thanks, everybody for all your helpful comments. I'm on a steep learning curve here since the last time I worked on old cars is when they were new cars (if you get what I'm saying). Anyway, some followup comments/questions . . . Upon closer scrutiny (thanks to Jon and others), the carb I have is probably not the original as evidenced in the fact that the choke mechanism interferes somewhat with the PCV hose. The carb I have has the vacuum advance port coming out of the right front bottom corner of the carburetor, unlike what I've seen posted in various places regarding the later ported models. However, that being said, the vacuum port is obviously connected above the throttle as evidenced by the reading at a slow idle (0). Now, for my big remaining question . . . Since in the old days, all I had to do to get a part was to go to the nearest auto shop, dealer, or junk yard, I'm at a complete loss as to how to get a hold of a tagged carburetor for my nailhead. I've checked all over the internet and can't find anything close. Suggestions????‚ÄčTom
  12. tkeiser1

    Carburetor Help

    Thanks again, Jon. Not what I would like to here, but very helpful. Tom
  13. tkeiser1

    Carburetor Help

    Back again. . . final diagnosis . . . accelerator pump. Upon close review (and a bright light), it pumps, but with with a weak interrupted stream. Now I don't know how to proceed with a kit. I talked to Jon at The Carburetor Shop and he prefers not to sell any kit unless he knows the exact model of the carburetor. That isn't available since the previous owner had it rebuilt at some point and the tag has been removed. Ed, you suggested assuming it's the original, which I'm willing to do (due to the kick down functioning). However, having seen much about poor quality rebuild kits, does anyone have a suggestion for a dependable source (other than Jon, of course). Thanks.
  14. tkeiser1

    Carburetor Help

    Thanks for the feedback. You all have given me some things to follow up on. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.
  15. tkeiser1

    Carburetor Help

    Update . . . I checked vacuum, and found something interesting (at least to me). Pardon a potentially stupid question (I've been out of this for forty years), but shouldn't the vacuum at the vacuum advance port be the same as the PCV port? My vacuum advance port runs steady at 5 but the PCV is more what I would anticipate, at 20.