truth

would you still have 5 NOS Rajah Hook spark plug terminals,?

I bought a 1946 chevy truck in 75 and restored it w my hard savings of 600.00! I did have an easy start though cause i only paid 25.00 for the truck. But i did install the chrome metal barefoot gas pedal and a smaller foot on the dimmer switch. I also bought a 6 volt ahooga horn. They were both from jc whitney and still in place and working.

Would anybody have an idea what these stamped numbers mean? this is i believe a clam shell rear end and its on a 1918 american made fiat 7 passenger touring car. It has a 4 speed trans and 4 cyl 9 litre motor

After searching the forums here i see alot to say about using only certain type heavy gear oils where in contact w brass as it will hurt the brass. My question is does this same thing occur with grease? im about to get the john deere corn head grease to use on the grease fittings in general on my 1918 fiat, and alot of those have brass. I thought id ask if anyone has any knowledge on whether certain types of grease actually can harm the brass? thanks for any wisdom shared

if you look at the posts of my same type question there is a formula given . the post is 1918 fiat oil capacity in general forum. its one of the replies that helped me

the three caps at the bearing mounts that have 2 nuts holing them on i took off to reseal the gaskets and put in a new stud. Well i dropped one nut in the open hole and have tried to get back out w magnets and hooked wire etc and cant find it. i think its on a sealed side where it cant get to the drive shaft gear. I think its caught in a cavity that more than likely will keep it separate from the open gears but what if scares me, Ive thought of taking the whole back axle off and turning it upside down. I just am not familiar w whats inside and cant find any spec drawings so thats where im at for now. Ive also filled w kerosene trying to flush it out and will try air pressue w it tommorrow.thanks for your reply

thank you for all the links w information. Its the most ive seen

anybody have know how on opening up the top lid or clamshell type diff? it looks like the axle clamps come off and after all bolts ate taken out the top 1/2 would lift off? my red flag is i dont know if all those rivets around the diff that are holding the bearings habe to be ground off or does the bearing housing split in 2 pcs? and of course any other things i know im missing? ive looked and looked and just cant seem to find much info on these type rear ends

Does the amount of spring pressure matter? the 1st 2 pics show what i believe to be correct. the black sharpie shows the bottom of the drag tube and makes sense to me cause you can start the threaded end pc and tighten till even then insert cotter pin. But the last 2 pictures show other end of d tube and now the black sharpie line shows the difference. Its way outside the tube. I cant even start the threaded end cause its so far out. this is 105 yrs old and one of the springs was missing in the short end so no telling whats been done over the years. Question is 1-is the spring compression correct on 1st set pics? 2-try to get new springs to mock the compression on 1st set of pics? 3- Any other suggestions? Thanks for any recommends

im thinking the idle jet is the one nearest the bowl?and the high sprrd jet is the other thats more in the center? any wisdom here is appreciated

still have this for sale?

is the mag clockwise rotation?

this measures 3 inches but not square

would you have a bosch zr4 2 spark mag? i doubt theres much in your book on that mag since its so rare but maybe you know? thanks tim