a sell

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  1. I have the chev conn rods, and 3 - 28 engines. They have 2 piece rods with a 1/16" spacer on each side between the rod and the cap. That is how the late 4 cylinder rods were made. Not very conducive to getting oil up to the upper part of the connecting rod from the cast iron dipper. Racers found one piece rods that are 1/8" longer for added compression, and the added functionality of a one piece rod. And no these rods are not being remanufactured, mainly because it does not start with the letter F Oh well, thats how it goes. As people pass all that info goes away, and more and more of these things become just so much scrap metal. After all who wants that old shit. Its OLD.
  2. The pin length for the Chev conn rod is 3-5/16" and is clamped in the middle, floating on the ends. I do not have the info for the Star conn rod, but it should be similar.
  3. I am looking for the application of a connecting rod. Someone thought it was Star, of unknown year. The dimensions are 7-1/2" long, Journal 1-1/2" dia X 1-7/8" long, Pin dia 27/32" I am looking to replace my Chev 4 cyl rods with these if possible. Thanks for the help.
  4. I will look at the serial number on the inline 8 again, it was written beside the stamped serial no. with a paint pen. As for the 6 he wrote it on the top as being a Studebaker Twin Ignition Six. It is a 6 and has two spark plugs per cylinder, one on each side of the head. The distributor has twelve high energy connections. Looks like a good idea for more complete ignition. Maybe it is not a Studebaker.
  5. After seeing the blog from the fellow who is building the Indy racer it made me wonder about a 31 engine a friend has in his shop. It is a Studebaker 8 cylinder, serial number is XE with four numbers. The other Studebaker engine that looks interesting is a 35 twin ignition six. Both are fairly complete, but the carb is broke on the twin ignition six. Any info on these? There was a v-8 out of about a 62 Lark but he had a helper haul it off cause it was "too new"
  6. hwellens, I appreciate the help. The latest problem is that after getting new wood wheels made for the car it has worn all of the lining off of one band down to the rivets. I have not had the time to see if he did not get the drum within the .007" concentric tolerance. So frustrated with this thing I'm ready to accidentally stall it on the RR tracks. It was originally put together by a tractor shop. Everything I have done to it, I have tried to make right. We have a Town Sedan as a parts car.
  7. I think the Filling Station carries those. The other option is to enlarge the drawing. You know the cross shafts are 3/4" in diameter, so scale it to that size, draw it up, cut it out. The originals were metal and designed to be used extensively. Since you are just using it now and then make it out of 3/4" or 7/8" plywood or hardwood.
  8. Hello, We have a 28 model 72. It has a 1-3/8" master cylinder and 1-1/4" wheel cylinders. It is the last year Chrysler used the first generation Wagner/Lockheed brakes. That is, it is the last year of the external band type brakes. While doing research in getting my brakes working better I talked to a fellow with a couple of Jewetts. His Jewetts both have the optional hydraulic brakes. He told me that in order to get his brakes working he had to silver solder an air release where the main tube goes over the rear engine crossmember. Apparently air gets trapped there and he could not get it out while bleeding the brakes. Not sure if this is your problem but it is one place to look.
  9. Hello Mechanician, Scripps Booth is considered to be a Chevrolet forerunner, and is accepted in the VCCA. I would suggest you contact the VCCA, they have a forum devoted to the V-8 models. I do not know if it is the same v-8 used in the 1917 to 1919 Chevrolet H models, but it could be. There is a member in our region who is working on restoring a H4, the engine is done and is quite impressive.
  10. Are 30 olds the same?
  11. I had hoped to buy it from you if it was 1-1/8"
  12. Thanks, should be 1", or 1-1/8"
  13. Hello, Not to be picky but a little help as to what you are looking for would be beneficial. So the piece you posted a photo of is the hinge pillar, and almost looks like it is for a 29 instead of a 30. Does the windshield slope at all, or is it straight up and down? Is the cars instruments in one oval gauge cluster, or is it 4 individual gauges inserted in the dash. Are you looking for the aluminum cover that goes over the outside of the hinge post or the actual wood hinge post? There was a fair amount of changes in that area from 29 to 30.
  14. Hello, can you tell me what diameter the intake manifold is where it bolts to the cylinder head?
  15. I posted on one of the other forums you made an inquiry on. I see which clevis shackles you are looking for now. In two local newsletters I posted a two year search for some to install a 29 axle in the 28 rp I am working on. I like the 29 set up better, and have a 29 coupe for a pattern. Very hard to find. Finally gave up and will use 28 type in the 28 rp. Gary Wallace at one point had a set for 29 but wanted a fair chunk of change for them. True 29 material is getting harder to find, many more 28, and 30 models were saved than 29. If you want to convert to 30 style we can probably set you up. It may be difficult without an entire rear axle assembly since they were activated totally different from 29 and 30 so shipping to Au would probably be $$$.