Hubert_25-25

1) Measure the distance around the area where the bead of the tire goes. 69 1/2" is a 22" rim. Take this distance and divide it by 3.14 That is the diameter. 2) Then measure the maximum width of this rim. 3) See where this falls in the chart. A 24" rim that is 4" wide is a 1923 or 1924 wheel. 1928 rims are 21". The axle is useless. Get rid of that first and at least you only have two wheels to store in a small space until sold. No front brakes on 1923 Buicks, so likely that is what they are from. Hugh

Larry, Thanks for the clarifications. I am always amazed at the subtleties betwen the Standard and the Master. Yes, this is a Master windshield with the top pins at 44" apart that I took the dimensions from. Glenn, Drawing attached if you want to make a sun shade for your 1925-25. Larry and I have both made one of these for our touring cars. In the drawing, the top pins are 42" apart. Hugh

Glenn, I have not verified that my windshield uprights are parallel. The windshield that I am using is likely a Standard but there may have been some changes by the owner. The top rectangular windshield is 42 3/4" wide. The sides are 10" long. The odd thing is when I measure across where the caps are, I get a width of 41 3/4", and I think the rectangle should not angle in. For location, when the upper windshield is closed, the top of the windshield is aligned with the top of the post. The convertible top locating pin on the posts are the only thing above the windshield. The gap between the glass panes is 3/16" to 1/4". This gap is filled with the rubber that is shaped like the letter 'h". The frame is 1 1/4" wide, and 3/4" thick. The outer side has a slot to hold weatherstripping. The lower windshield is supposed to have a rubber cap over the metal cap. The flat head screws are for the windshield end caps. The fillister screws hold the lower windshield frame. The metal spacers go in the rubber on the lower windshield sides that is 3/4" cross section. The curved weatherstrip at the base of the lower windshield has a flat section that lays on the cowl. The upright supports have rubber pads on the base. Bob's Automobilia has all the weather stripping. Hugh

Charles, Do you have a photo of what is on your car so that we know what pieces you are missing.

Craig, In the link that I posted, you will find the people that make the venturi blocks. Not a normal carburetor repair part. This will allow the air valve to sit against the inner wall of the carburetor. I mention this because your photo shows the big air valve screw adjusted out too far and compensating for the poor venturi block. It should essentially be flush with the end of the indexing tab. But don't just screw it in until the block is replaced, otherwise that will put excess pressures on the spring. There are also notes on the blanking plates - making them or have Olsons Gaskets make them. You can find small sheets of copper on Ebay. Easy to cut with tin snips. Put the copper between 2 pieces of wood while drilling to prevent the drill from grabbing the thin sheetmetal, and go up in drill size and not a large hole all at once. Hugh

Here is an article to take you thru rebuilding and checking the carburetor and the heating system. Gaskets are 1/64 paper. Make yourself or Olsons Gaskets may have them. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/372573-1920s-buick-marvel-carburetor-rebuilding/#comment-2311177 Hugh

Thank you for the kind words. I have now finished making and installing all of the hidem. I have put my scissors away. So now I have been able to get the Buick out into the sunlight to take some photos. I do not have the top rests and top boot for the car, but the top can be lowered for photographs. It makes a pretty wedding day car. Hugh

The first 3 pages are the notes from when my vacuum tank quit working and left me stranded. Ran great for several months. Last 5 pages are the process I went thru when I rebuilt it. The best gasket to use on the Banjo vacuum bolt are the rubber style inside of the metal ring that Brian Heil found. Hugh

Frank, Glad that you are making good progress and that the Buick is running better. Bob's Automobilia has replacement choke springs. I bought two in case I messed one up, but I have been able to replace this spring without taking the lever off the choke shaft. Hugh I am also surprised to see the heat riser tube OD the same for Master or Standard in 1925. Hugh

So needing to make a few adjustments to the interior before I can hide all the tack heads. At the door latches, I followed the panels that were on the car, but they were not done right as the latch showed. I did not like the look of the black latch against the beige interior. I decided to add a piece of wood into each latch post to try to hide the door latch when the door is closed. I am still leaving a small gap for the trim. I also added carpeting to the rear seat floor and I removed the large rubber mat. I was able to install the foot rest as well. Then I had to make "Hidem", as it is not available in this color. So Mark Kikta provided the details and I purchased a leather skive to thin the leather. Hugh’s notes for making ¾” wide hidem: - Cut leather to 2 ½” wide strips. - Seams will be done on a 45 degree bias. - Leather skived to .035” - Pen mark the leather on the back side ¾” from each side. - Use ¼” basting tape. Stick this on the outside of each pen line. - Fold the ¾” edge over 3/32” welting cord. Make the leather edge touch the pen line. - Create a 1/8” leather flat spot with the welting in the outside fold. - Repeat for the opposite side - Fold the welting to the middle on both sides. - Use the 5/16” presser foot and stitch each side. So one side of the rear seat is now finished. I have to make a lot of Hidem to cover the front seat and the rest of the rear seat. That is my job tomorrow. Hugh

Your heat riser tube may not be your only problem. There are a lot of areas to address if you want to put your carburation in good order and to bypass all of the heat addition components that are no longer needed and are negatives when running modern fuels. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/372573-1920s-buick-marvel-carburetor-rebuilding/#comment-2311177

Lou, The multi disc clutch components (friction discs and metal plates) interchange to the very early cars and thru 1925. The Larger 6 cylinder cars had an extra set of friction and metal plate to handle the incresed torque. Hugh

Finally getting to installing the rear Buffalo hub as I needed several parts. I did use blue lock tight on the 1/2-20 countersunk screw that holds the parking brake band as a preventative measure. Someone really beat on the inside of this wheel hub and I don't really know why. Damage all appears to be on the outer hub section. Hammering got into the mating flange and I was just barely able to clean it up with my whizzer and not have to remove the axle. I protected the internals from getting grinding bits into the hub. I did replace the felt seal with a double lip spring seal. The seal should have really been installed in the opposite direction, but there would be no way to ever remove it, so I installed it where it could be removed. It did require 2 wraps of electrical tape, and I also used RTV sealant to hold it. The 1/64 face gasket was missing as well so I made these. I had to use a heavy gasket sealer bead due to the heavy beating that the hub had on the mating face. I did clean the bearing and Mark Kikta provided the replacement special tab washer. So the odd thing with these Buffalo wheels - the outer bearing race is held in the drive hub. On a wood spoke, the outer bearing race is held in the spoke wheel hub, and the drive hub is just a flange. Threads on the 6 studs were OK but marginal so I was careful with tightening to prevent stripping one. So after assembling everything, on a Buffalo wheel car, the brake band can be installed after the drum is on, if installed in the proper order. Installing the two 5/16 bolts first. You can't do this with a wood spoke wheel, and it would still be easier if the band is installed prior to installing the drum. This photo shows the crushed brake release spring and the replacement spring stock that I am using. Buick part number 169131. For both Standard and Master! This Hillman spring is a good match and just needs to be cut to length. Bought at the local Ace Hardware store. Now I am on to fixing the brakes on this car as it has a lot of rusty clevis pins and the brakes are low and the pedal does not return properly. Hugh

DFOXY, Photos of what you have would help. 1926 Oldsmobiles are extremely rare. I am only under the assumption that many parts are similar to what Buick was using. In 1926, Buick was using a pot metal distributor. The potmetal grew over time. This may explain why the distributor was not held in place. Long term, people with 1926 Delco distributors replace them with 1930 Buick series 40 distributors. Model 640 Delco distributors. As Stude light says, find compression on number 1 cylinder, then rotate until you have the TDC mark in the timing inspection window. On a Buick, TDC is the 1-6 line. Then you can set the distributor location based on when the points just open. Attached are instructions on setting the timing statically, and then using a timing light. Hugh

Tom, Fuel sending unit parts are very hard to find. Read thru this posting regarding restoring or building a fuel sending unit. They are not that difficult to build. 1925 thru 1927 Standard would be the same. The two drawings will show you how to make the parts to build your own fuel gauge for a Buick Standard. The link will explain where to get the float material and other parts. Myers Early Dodge also sells the parts for a 2" fuel gauge. Note that the Buick nickeled cap is a different thread pitch than Dodge uses, but Myers made a run of these for us. Hugh