Hubert_25-25

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About Hubert_25-25

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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    carsnparts@earthlink.net

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Lake Jackson TX

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  1. Hubert_25-25

    Motometer Red Line

    John, I have 4 of these motometers that I have bought off Ebay and Craigslist for my 1925 Buick, and all of them were entirely red. I have been able to shake all of them down. I spent 20 minutes on one though. The others took less time. Here are some tips. 1) Separate the cap portion from the motometer. It probably needs a new gasket anyway. The nut should be brass. Best to use a 6 point socket if you can. If it has a lock washer, it is usually corroded, replace it with a stainless or bronze star washer. You can get a new star washer and gaskets at McMaster Carr. - radiator cap washer 90131A327 (You will need to trim this) - Bronze internal tooth lock washer for 5/8 screw 92165A055 - (I can't find the part number for the 5/8 rubber gasket, but you can select one from their website.) The main reason that I go thru this step is that you can shake them down with the cap, but it is a little harder on your wrist due to the extra weight. I always remove the dogbone style because they are very heavy. 2) Shake them like an old school thermometer. Kind of a flick of the wrist. They need a quick jerk stop to get the fluid to the bottom. 3) Occasionally bump them on a tire as the Boyce instruction suggest. Use a bike tire that is not low on air, as they are a little more forgiving than a car tire. I thought the shaking did the most good, but I think the tire approach makes sense too. I have yet to get one of these working, and I look for cheap ones that are all red because people think they are broken. Always keep them upright afterwards. I made a storage box for them until I can restore them all the way. One was renickeled and it went thru the process in good shape. www.restorationstuff.com carries parts for the motometer. Hugh
  2. In my effort to post final pictures and a write up on my progress, I was stopped my the 9.7 MB photo limit, and I inadvertently deleted the entire thread while trying to just cut the number of pictures! Ugh. My apologies to those that were adding comments to help me with this along the way. So instead I took screen shots of the word document that I created to be able to post a running commentary of the process. Thanks to all for the help. Hugh
  3. Hubert_25-25

    1925-1927 Buick Standard Correct Muffler & Exhaust pipe

    Larry, Agreed on the hodge podge method used to assemble a car to be able to push it across the auction block. I have also found many of the correct parts and sold off many of my wrong year stuff. My exhaust pipe does have the correct 1 year only flange on the exhaust pipe, so I am pretty sure this pipe is correct. I really won't know for sure until I get my engine back though. Hugh
  4. Hubert_25-25

    1925-1927 Buick Standard Correct Muffler & Exhaust pipe

    Grant, I did send a note to "sat1966" and he said that he did not have a pattern for a 1925 Buick Standard. Between Larry and I , I would like to send him a pattern. He did say that he could make the parts if he had a pattern. His prices did look reasonable, and I would prefer to be able to purchase a pipe and install it in my garage rather than wait at a muffler shop and have someone fabricate a one off system. Hugh
  5. Hubert_25-25

    25 Buick oil leak

    Ron, There is a lip seal #471567. 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 1/4 wide. It will fit inside the cap with the fiberous material. I plan to push one into my cap and then use a cork gasket in the front of the cap, and that should make this a modern fix. Hugh
  6. Hubert_25-25

    1925 Buick Standard horn button - no response

    Mark, Do you have one of these "washers" in your box of parts? Hugh
  7. Hubert_25-25

    1925 Buick Standard horn button - no response

    Leif, Thank you. Larry said that these were nickeled, and that I could make this out of brass. Hugh
  8. Hubert_25-25

    Electrical Insulating Paper

    I am waiting to see if the person that I bought these from has the correct bolt and would do a swap. I would like to make it to Chickasha again.
  9. Hubert_25-25

    1925 Buick Standard horn button - no response

    Leif, I do have the shoes and springs. I am just missing the friction washer. Hugh Mark, If Nigel is not interested, I would like them as a spare. Hugh
  10. I did a lot of searching today for the correct muffler for my 1925-25. I was coming up close but never quite there in trying to find what Dave Chambers described in his 1971 article. After going thru all the mufflers on the Summit site and a few others, I thought about looking at the Myers Early Dodge website. I contacted them, and they have the correct muffler as was also used on the 6 cylinder Dodge Brothers car. 24" x 5" muffler with 2" inlet and 1 1/2" outlet. This should be correct for 1925-1927 standard with the 1925 standard needing a 2" x 1 3/4 adapter. Here is Myers link. www.myersearlydodge.com Myers also sells the old style clamps which are nice because if you do your exhaust right, you can usually separate the parts later if you have to. Also dimensions for the exhaust pipe from my 1925 Buick Standard. This is the factory flange (with part number 174574) and the 1 3/4" pipe is swedged into the flange. Hugh
  11. Hubert_25-25

    1925 Buick Standard horn button - no response

    Larry, Not sure if I am missing a part. You mention a spacer washer. Is it part 255338? This part is called a stationary friction washer. I did not have this in my parts when I disassembled my spark and throttle levers. Do you have any details on this part? Thank you, Hugh
  12. Hubert_25-25

    Need Help Part 2

    Fred, That is a really interesting failure. I don't know what the hub looks like inside the Fiber gear section. Any thoughts on rocker shaft or cam rollers or something that could have caused this to fail? Are all the valves working properly?
  13. Hubert_25-25

    1925 Buick Standard horn button - no response

    I learned a bit about my horn button today. So much tarnish on the copper that I was really unaware of how this operated. I thought that the "switch" was actually in the horn bakelight assembly, but it is not. That is just a spring assembly and the contact is the copper surface under the bakelight button that touches the aluminum housing when pressed. All good now. It spent 1 day in the vinegar spa which removed the tarnish. Hugh
  14. Hubert_25-25

    Electrical Insulating Paper

    Holy cow, and I thought old points were getting scarce. They are all in those jars. I was also wondering what the thread pitch was on my bolt part, as my thread gauges only goes up to 42. I contacted the person who sold me the NOS points on Ebay. I am hoping he will contact me and trade me for the correct bolt size. Hugh
  15. Hubert_25-25

    1923 Buick tire Question

    1925 is the first year for Baloon tires on Buicks. These are 32 PSI recommended for the touring car. The 1922 Dodge I have been using takes 50 PSI in the tires. That's a lot of work with a hand pump with leather seals on the side of the road. They also made the 22" tire for this 1 year only. 21" rims in 1926.