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About Hubert_25-25

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    Lake Jackson TX

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  1. Hubert_25-25

    1920's Buick Rear Main Engine Seal

    Rod, The cross section of the rope is the same as the cross section of the cork, but the cork compresses easier, so I am a little concerned about fitting all of the rope in plus the wire even if it is a small wire. Another thing is the instructions only call out one roll pin in the cap, so the block side gets no wire or roll pin in case you would need to put a new rope in later it would be much easier. I assume that is the reasoning. I am following the directions of the rope kit, but the wire just looks to make it a little on the tight side.
  2. Hubert_25-25

    1920's Buick Rear Main Engine Seal

    More details than you want to know about rear main seals. There are two wire retainers used with the original 1/4" x 1/4" cross section cork rear main seals. The purpose of the wire is to prevent the cork seal from rotating in the bearing cap and block. The .035 wire is stiff and you could make new ones if you needed to easily, just use a wire that is a little difficult to bend. A lot of the wire available is very pliable. This is almost like spring or coat hanger wire. Notice that there is also a tiny hole in the bearing cap and in the block just near the parting line. Just the corner of the wire goes into the hole and that is what keeps the cork seal from spinning. The hole and the curve in the end of the wire is shown in the first photo. As a modern upgrade, I am working on installing the Best Gasket rope seal that I purchased from Egge. This requires drilling a small 1/16" hole in the end middle of the bearing cap and installing a very small 1/16" diameter roll pin, so I no longer need the wires. I am still playing with the rope and tapping it into shape. Oddly I found a socket that is exactly the diameter of the crankshaft, so this helps with the photos and shaping the rope. I will cut the rope per the instructions and post when I am done. Hugh
  3. Hubert_25-25

    Fuel Filter in Early Cars

    On my 1925 Buick, there is a screen on the gas tank pick up tube. There is also a small thimble sized screen on the inlet to the vacuum tank, and the same small screen on the carburetor inlet. In 1926, the big advance was filters on the air, oil, and gasoline. They added a fuel filter on the outlet to the vacuum tank. The key is a filter with sufficient pleats to prevent pressure drop while filtering the volume of fuel needed. I prefer a filter to a sediment bowl, and this does both. I purchased an AC filter from They carry the AC replacement filter elements as well. Photos are of the gas tank screen, a 1926 gas filter on the vacuum tank, and the new filter for my car. I thought about installing an inline filter in the fuel line from the gas tank to vacuum tank, but that feed is dependent on the amount of engine vacuum available to pull the fuel so I am not as comfortable with a filter there. Hugh
  4. Hubert_25-25

    How to turn connecting rods on crankshaft 1925-6-25.

    Hi Leif, I know this is a very old post that I just found, but since my 1925-25 engine is open, I thought I would answer your question. The 1925 Buick shop manual says that the rod bearing cap pointer faces to the rear. On the connecting rod, that translates to the cast point is to the rear, and the numbers are on the front. This matches what you found on your other 1925 Buick Std. engine. Hugh
  5. Hubert_25-25

    1920's Buick Rear Main Engine Seal

    Since no new manufacturers use cork for their rear main seals anymore, I was wanting to try something more modern. Here are the specs. Crank OD .2415 Bearing cap ID 2.815 The seal groove is .20 wide at the bottom and .25 wide at the top. The Cork material originally used is 1/4" x 1/4" in cross section. It appears that the same seal is used for all Buick 6 cylinders from 1925 to 1930. I talked to Best Gasket and they recommended their smallest rope seal which is .210 thick x 5/16 wide in cross section. Best rear main kit #6340 Best had no experience, just picking this out of their catalog getting closest to my dimensions, and no seal specific listings prior to 1934. I talked to Egge, and they said that they carry the seal as it is used in later model Buicks but could not tell me if they had tried it in a 20's Buick. I was wondering if anyone had used rope packing in their rear main seal on these Buick engines. Thank you, Hugh
  6. Hubert_25-25

    Balancing Connecting Rods

    It is the same pairs 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 but perhaps being older the firing order was not a standard. The first time I looked at this I wrote down 153624 as this is from memory, but then I decided to look in the shop manual to be sure that was how they did it back in 1925. Sure enough, firing order is 142635 which is just backwards so maybe its a chain driven vs gear driven timing that they decided to use a backwards firing order. Hugh
  7. John, What is the rim width of the demountable rims. Also are the rear wheels 6 bolt or 12 bolt in the hub. If they are 12 bolt, they are for a 4 cylinder, and 6 bolt would be for a 6 cylinder car. Hugh
  8. Hubert_25-25

    Balancing Connecting Rods

    Buick Friends, I just finished documenting how I balanced my connecting rods. This is a link to the posting. Now I get to start assembling the block. Thanks as always for your help. Hugh
  9. Hubert_25-25

    Balancing Connecting Rods

    Here are my final notes on balancing the connecting rods at home. Thanks to those that gave guidance in the process. Hugh The machinist balanced the crankshaft, pistons with wrist pins, and the flywheel separately. The original steel pistons were 40 grams difference between lightest to heaviest. New aluminum pistons and wrist pins were equally balanced at 542 grams each. Steel pistons and pins were around 800 grams each, so always nice to lower the rotating mass. When the machinist got to the connecting rods, he said he did not want to balance them as there is no place to safely remove any steel on these old connecting rods. The greatest difference is 19 grams between the heaviest and lightest rod. A nut weighs 6 grams. I agree that this seems like a lot of steel to remove from mainly the big end cap. The machinist weighed both ends of each connecting rod, so all modifications and checks could be made using a more basic scale at home. 1) Two connecting rods were light on the little end, so I added a stainless washer under the wrist pin bolt head. Strange too was that the lightest connecting rod had the heaviest little end, so no washers on this end. The wrist pin bolts were also replaced with drilled head bolts so that I could safety wire them in place. 2) The connecting rods were “paired” starting with the heaviest and the lightest as a pair. This decision alone put the max being out at 6 grams. I will put these two rods closest to each other which means journals 3 and 4. One connecting rod was much lighter than the others, so I opted to add washers under the big end nut, otherwise I would be grinding on 5 connecting rods and still not sure if I could safely remove 6 grams. I used stainless washers as they are harder than galvanized hardware store washers. I did grind some on the washers. Then I replaced them with grade 8 hardened washers. 3) I purchased a 3kg/.1g digital kitchen scale online. About $25. This had good repeatability and measured to the .1gram because it is in the weight range for these connecting rods. 4) This set up required me to renumber 3 of the connecting rods. Not really an issue. I used an engraver because I did not want to bang on the recently re-babbitted connecting rods. Probably should have looked at the balance before babbitting and then I could repunch the number. No real reason not to move them around after everything else was balanced. All new bearing surfaces and better balancing instruments than these old motors ever saw. Not entirely necessary for a low revving engine, but I was able to get the pairs within .1 grams of each other. The machinist was going to just leave the connecting rods alone. This would have put me at 19 grams heavy on one journal pair. The original assembly with steel pistons had one journal pair out by 28 grams.
  10. Hubert_25-25

    Who Doesn't Like Photos

    This left front tire would hold air for 10 minutes and was leaking at the valve stem - not the tire itself. We could air it up to 30 psi and have time to move the car around before it went flat. They had done such a good job with how the cords were laid out that even though most of the rubber had fallen out, the tire was still functional.
  11. All of the 22-54 models came Deep Maroon color. If you wanted a Blue car, you bought another model. That is one of the unique things about the time period. I would also think that they came Deep Maroon outside and use the spanish leather. Hugh
  12. Kyle, The 1922 6 cylinder model 44 was on the 118" frame, and the model 54 was on the 124" frame. Sounds like the front would be a 1922 Model 54. There is no model 23. Since the back has a trunk, and assuming it is 1922, it is either a model 34 roadster, or a model 36 coupe, or model 48 coupe, or model 44 roadster or 54 sport roadster.
  13. This is a 1922, but the serial number breakdown I have does not go to the level of detail regarding what model this would correspond to, other than you telling me that it is a 6 cylinder. This is likely not a chopped down 4 passenger touring car (model 45) but more likely a model 44. It could be a model 54 given the Bufallo wheels. If the sheetmetal does not fit up well, then it could be the front of a touring with the back of a roadster. If the sheetmetal fits well, then it would be a model 44 or 54. Valve Cover 1919-1922 6 cylinder Door Hinges 1921 44-45-49 1922 34-35-44-45-49 1923 34-35-39 Door Locks 1921-23 44-45-49 1922/23 34-35 1924 34-35-44-45 so inner hardware should be the same Hand windshield wiper All open cars pre 1927 spare tire bracket - not sure There is a guy selling some Bufallo wheels. Good idea to locate a few spares. He has 1922 6 cylinder parts(see below). Top and Hardware for roadster. - Will be difficult to locate, but maybe can get dimensions to make. Spare distributor parts - Bob's Automobilia trunk hinges and latch. I would have to look this up. Not sure if this has no outer latch and uses a T key. Talk to Jerry, I think he may have some of the parts you are looking for. Let him know I sent you. I may have a source for some of the other parts, but we should talk after Hershey. I will be at Hershey. Hugh
  14. Hubert_25-25

    1926 Clutch

    Since your clutch is apart, I would use brake clean to clean up the parts and to keep the dust down. I would also use a wire brush to remove as much loose material as possible. Although it may not be said, there is probably a 100% chance that there is asbestos in the lining material. I would take any loose piece outside, put a fan behind you and wire brush off any loose material. For the flywheel part, I would put a new filter into a shop vacuum and clean the back of the flywheel. Turning the flywheel as you clean it and minimizing any dust. You probably need a small screwdriver to clean this part and all the teeth. Take the bag out of the shop vac and dispose of it in a plastic bag when you are done. If the linings are still good, you can just put it back together. Be sure to add touches of grease on the clutch metal to metal contact points and in the pilot bushing. If you want to replace the linings, you can get a non asbestos material and rivets from Industrial brake and Supply, or you can mail your clutch plates to them to be relined. Your parts look pretty clean and may just need to be cleaned up and reinstalled. Hugh
  15. Kyle, Welcome, That is a good looking car. Lets figure out the year first. Do you have the serial number on the frame, or the engine serial number? Do you have any of the data tags from the firewall in the engine compartment. I assume you are tell me that it is a 6 cylinder. A photo of both sides of the motor would help. Myers Early Dodge sells water pump packing. You should be able to find that at Hershey. Hugh