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About Hubert_25-25

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  • Birthday 02/11/1960

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    Lake Jackson TX

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  1. Hubert_25-25

    1931 Hupp top closed car roof replacement

    Thanks for the suggestions. I did find this Model A roof install procedure which looks like a good starting point. Hugh
  2. Hubert_25-25

    Early Buick Carburetor Identification

    Terry, Here are the pages for the 1922 (model H) and 1924 Buick 6 (Model R). These are from the thick 1916-1932 Buick parts book. I think around 1931 is the printing date on this section. Very possible that improvements were introduced prior to regular calendar dates on the model years, or later if they wanted to use up older parts. The fact that the carburetors are essentially 1 model year specific tells me that improvements were rapid in these early days. Buick was big on quality and they may have done things to improve the breed as necessary rather than duplicating the same older technology till the end of the model year. I have also seen that if you went to a dealer for repairs, they would have installed a "newer" part if it did the trick. Very evident in seeing newer year replacement radiators and shells listed for older models in the spare parts book. Hugh
  3. Hubert_25-25

    Early Buick Carburetor Identification

    This looks to be a 1923 Buick 6 and 1923-24 Buick 4 (Model K) carburetor. I have looked at the photos of the 1922 (model H) and 1924 Buick 6 (Model R) and those carburetors are different. The listing shows some internal part differences for the 2 engine sizes. The brass bowl does fit multiple years. Hugh
  4. Hubert_25-25

    1923 Buick Top Clamps

    Philipp, As Larry said, Google is not always correct. You should post based on your 1923 Parts Book photo, as the photo you are using is not correct. The ones you are showing are for a model 34. Another option that is available is to use top rests that are available from They carry this style.
  5. Hi I am helping my good friend repair the roof on his recently purchased 1931 Huppmobile. I am not sure if my friend posted photos of his car, but here are a few pictures. The top was damaged in shipment to his house. I don't have pictures yet of the damage, but I don't think you really need them. I do a lot on the forum with my 1925 Buick Standard Touring and now I need a little help with this good looking Hupp. 1) Who sells original top material? The car had model A "Cobra long grain" top material on it. I was not sure if the original style top material was still available, or if this is what people use these days. 2) There is chicken wire above the wood rib supports. It looks pretty good, but do I need to restretch this? Being chicken wire, maybe it always gets a little stretched over time. 3) Is there a padding that goes between the chicken wire and the top. 4) How should you tack the top material? I assume use brass or stainless tacks. The old top just all peeled out at the tacks and made rips to the edge of the top material at each tack. (no tacks came out, but the top fabric was in tatters at the 2 sides and the back. It seems the tacks were very close to the edge of the material. 5) Is there a book or U tube that shows how to install these tops properly. 6) Is the hidem around the edge just regular hidem or something different. By the way, I usually put a technical paper together when I complete a project like this, so any help I get will go into the paper for others to share. Thank you for your help. Hugh
  6. Hubert_25-25

    spark and throttle lever "friction shoes"

    Thanks to all for your advise. I was able to clean these friction shoes up today. They are some sort of fiberous material. Today we would use a hard plastic. They are solid material and not the same as aluminum to minimize gauling. Mine still look good, and I plan to just clean things up and install them dry. In typical Buick fashion, these dimensions are 1 year only (1925) and fit a Standard only. Hugh
  7. Hubert_25-25

    Steering Stationary bracket detail 1925-27 Standard

    Leif and Larry, Thanks for the great photos. I think that ring of polished aluminum on the stationary hub looks nice. I have some work ahead of me, and my steering wheel is bare wood so I need to add a little filler and clean it up as well. Hugh
  8. Hubert_25-25

    wood floor board

    Kyle, These are what the corners that you are missing look like. They were actually steel and the metal was held with 1 nail on the top of the wood post. Then they leaded it in. Interesting that in this picture, the plate looks like a heavy piece of lead. Interesting not to see any rust on the piece. These days you would just wire feed weld a piece of sheetmetal formed to fit as best as you can and then use a good body filler to shape the surface. Hugh
  9. Hubert_25-25

    spark and throttle lever "friction shoes"

    I will need to look at these shoes in more detail. I may have aluminum that is rubbed off from the stationary hub surface onto the friction surface so I thought they were aluminum. I will report back after I have had a chance to look at my parts.
  10. These photos are of the stationary hub on my 1925 Buick Standard steering wheel. Included are also photos from the book of parts regarding how much of this bracket is polished aluminum and how much is black. The parts book pictures are 1925 thru 1927 Buick standard. Mine is all black, but it appears from the parts book that this hub should be "mostly black" and the ring is a polished section of the aluminum casting. My paint looks original, but a lot of years have passed and who knows what has been touched up over time. Are there others that have this ring of polished aluminum showing on their steering wheel stationary hub? Thank you, Hugh
  11. Hubert_25-25

    1925 Buick StarterGen - FS

    This is a 268 unit, so it is for a 1924 6 cylinder or 1925 Master. It will not work for 4 cylinder or Standard, but some minor parts do exchange. They weigh 60 lbs. It is nice to have a working spare. Hugh
  12. Hubert_25-25

    spark and throttle lever "friction shoes"

    The shoes are aluminum and the stationary hub is aluminum. The surface of the shoe appears to have a little gauling, which is part of the reason for asking the question. Gary is asking my question, as I would want it to be a smooth action, but from the looks of my friction shoes, some light sanding of the friction shoes may be in order. I was not sure if I put grease on these if that would go to far the other way and they would not hold well. There is a lot involved in rebuilding all the throttle and spark parts. and I don't have the engine in the car to test the operation either. Hugh
  13. The 1925 Buick parts book calls these "friction shoes". These friction shoes that add a little friction to the spark and throttle levers. Are these supposed to be installed dry or greased? Thank you, Hugh
  14. Results from a 1927 Buick Standard on a dyno. "The horsepower peak was 29.97, while the torque number confirms the old notion that early engines were built for torque, with a peak of 89.10. Top speed on the rollers approached 50 mph, which seems about right for the vintage of the car." Hugh
  15. Hubert_25-25

    1918-1925 Buick Clutch Friction Lining

    Rod, No Asbestos. Hugh