Fleet Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleet Meadow

  1. Fleet Meadow

    Hydra-Matic Adjustment

    So I tried that method of adjusting and tightened the band and it kept tightening to where I didn’t have enough threads left to put the locking nut and it could have tightened more. What does that mean? If I adjust it the way the book says I have plenty of threads still left to lock it with the nut.
  2. Fleet Meadow

    Hydra-Matic Adjustment

    If the bands weren't adjusted just right would it cause the transmission to not shift into 2nd? I can't my transmission to shift out of 1st gear.
  3. Fleet Meadow

    Hydra-Matic won’t shift

  4. Fleet Meadow

    Hydra-Matic won’t shift

    Good amount of sludge and debris in the pan. Is there a way to flush the transmission in car?
  5. Fleet Meadow

    Hydra-Matic won’t shift

    In my ‘52 Cadillac, Hydra-Matic, I have a problem getting it to shift. The fact is it won’t shift. I just replaced the valve body and I’m suspicious that it may have been dirty even though it appeared very clean. It reverses fine and takes off without slipping. I took it apart and found that the T.V. couldn’t go in all the way because the piston inside was stuck. The bands were also just adjusted. But I can’t get it to shift into second. I get up to 15-20mph and the governor won’t let it go faster and it doesn’t shift. I’ve driven it with the T.V. rod connected and disconnected and still the same situation. Before I changed the control panel it didn’t have a T.V. rod and shifted 1-4. I had to replace it because the rod lever had snapped and wasn’t applying pressure to the T.V. I don’t know what else to try and really don’t want to have to take the transmission out and rebuild it just yet. I appreciate any help. And please don’t say the transmission is trashed like I have seen in every transmission thread I’ve read. Thanks!
  6. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    I have a 1951 Dodge Meadowbrook with the standard 3 speed transmission fluid drive. When it is idling in neutral it runs around 450-500rpm. When I put it in gear and take out the clutch the engine bogs down to around 200-250rpm. I have changed the fluid with the TDH ISO32 like many of the forums here have said to do and it still does it. When I try to take off with the clutch out it either stalls or stumbles for about a second then takes off. When I am rolling down the road it runs and shifts fine with no hesitation. When you have it in gear with the clutch out, lets say in second gear, and you release the brake without pushing the accelerator it pushes the car forward like it would in an automatic transmission. Is the engine supposed to lower rpms when in gear with no clutch and no acceleration? Is something getting hung up and causing it to act like a normal standard transmission?
  7. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    Doing my own research it seems the 15 stands for Plymouth and the 20 means it was the 20th carburetor the manufacturer made and the A was an engineering revision. Was this revision a rebuild by the engineers to fix this particular carburetor or what could the A be for?
  8. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    So i took the pictures and put them up for comments and nobody has said anything. The top of the carburetor where the dashpot would be if it was the right carburetor says 15-20A. The cast iron part says BXV-3.
  9. Fleet Meadow

    Hydra-Matic won’t shift

    I do have a manual but haven’t gotten too in depth with it. I’m suspecting that something was in the control valve body that pushed into the governor when I started it for the first time since before I changed it it shifted through all of the gears. I took the NOS valve body apart yesterday and checked everything and found everything clean and operational with exception to the piston behind the T.V. piston. After freeing that the T.V. rod moved the full length it is supposed to again. I thought that might work but it didn’t and it’s still in 1st gear today. Is there anything I can add to the fluid or do to clean any possible obstruction in the governor without taking the covers off again? The bottom one is accessible but the side one is very close to the floor pan.
  10. Fleet Meadow

    Stainless Trim Installation

    I am attempting to put the stainless trim around the windshield in my ‘51 Meadowbrook and I am struggling pretty badly. The book says to use cord stuffed into the slot in the weatherstripping and gently pull it back against the stainless. That works great until I get to the upper corner. The trim has such a curve that it pulls the lip in under itself. I can’t seem to get the weatherstripping to go up enough to reach the stainless because it is pulled in so far away from the weatherstripping. Not to mention that the trim is not a perfect 90 and when you pull the side of the stainless it pulls the corner even farther from the weatherstripping. And every attempt I make releases the rubber lock on the weatherstrip so the lip will raise up but then I can’t get the rubber lock back in under the stainless.
  11. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

  12. Fleet Meadow

    1949-54 Vent Window Regulator

    I have a 1952 Cadillac and the driver’s front door vent crank I had worn out teeth. I’m looking for just the crank. I’m not sure if other GM cars used the same crank such as the Buick.
  13. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    The car ran the same as it does now except the stumble never went away.
  14. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    I tried to wiggle it around and it is tight. Does the TDH ISO 32 get thinner or thicker when it warms up? The issues I’ve talked about seem to happen when the car has been running for less than an hour.
  15. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    I am starting to believe that it is not the fluid drive and more of a carburetor issue. That brings me back to the carburetor post I made earlier in this thread. Is the carburetor letting it get too low in the rpms because it doesn’t have the dashpot or is that just a gimmick? I have read many saying they don’t even use it. I had read that the area around the throttle shaft starts to create an air leak over time. Does that make sense?
  16. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    Before I leave the driveway the car is already up to temp according to the gauge and the choke has been released.
  17. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    It turns out I did have an intake leak. I fixed that however it didn’t change things. Prior to that I ran my Meadowbrook around for about an hour and a half the other day and it stumbled and did everything I mentioned before. Then about an hour into the ride it stopped dragging at the stops and didn’t stumbled when I took off. I assumed that the fluid finally worked through and everything was great. The next day I took it for a short 15 minute ride and it acted up like before the whole time. Today I took it out for about an hour and it did the same as the longer drive I mentioned, for the first half of the ride it acted up then it started running beautifully. Is this just one of the finicky cars that is angry until the transmission heats up enough and then it runs great? Its such a pleasure to drive when it runs without problem.
  18. Fleet Meadow

    Water Distribution Tube/Overheating

    Here's a dumb but not dumb topic. Within the cooling system there are intricate details that are made in order to get uniform heat dispersal. With my Meadowbrook I battle overheating whenever the car is travelling at speeds of 50mph or higher for any length of time over 10 minutes. Periodically when driving around town, I say town but I live in the middle of nowhere so it is not stop and go, the temp gauge will rise above the summer temp. From the research I have seen, not including rust in the block, they all seem to point towards the water distribution tube. They say that it should be replaced. Now the question is, since it is a long tube with slotted holes in it, as long as it is fully in tact and not rusted it is still working effectively? I have battled overheating with this car for many years. I flush it and the rust comes back so I know that that is a factor. I have replaced the water pump, the thermostat, many gallons of coolant and the car is now reaching 240+ degrees. The water in the radiator is around 180-190 on the top, sometimes up to 215 and 150-160 at the bottom of the radiator. With a 4lb pressure cap on it this temp is just too high. To keep oil pressure up I have 15W-40 in it instead of the 30 weight oil. Is that contributing to the overheating? I just replaced the transmission fluid since it was frothing out of the fill hole and that did not change anything temperature wise. She never stalls or gets vapor lock and pushes right through like nothing is wrong but I know that it is not good for the engine to keep overheating.
  19. Fleet Meadow

    Water Distribution Tube/Overheating

    I don't remember saying that the radiator was cleaned. If i did, I misspoke. I intend to clean it as best as possible via the wood bleach cleaning process.
  20. Fleet Meadow

    Water Distribution Tube/Overheating

    It’s a Flathead 6 230. The thermostat is 160. The radiator hoses are hot on both sides so the thermostat opens. The fan does cool down the fluid a bit as I said in the original post however it doesn’t keep up enough. I’m fairly confident that the cooling system is clogged but I figured I’d ask a couple questions in this thread and open the discussion with people that have far more knowledge than I have. I have a similar issue with my 1952 Cadillac that has a 12-15lb pressured cooling system and it has knocked the cap so the drain seal and the big cap seal have separated from its seat. I intend to clean that system out the same way as Rusty says to do higher in this conversation. That car has sat since 1976 and I rebuilt the engine fully myself. The heater cores were left exposed since the engine was out of the car. I have just the engine connected to make sure the engine runs properly before I replace the heater core lines, flush them, and reconnect them to the system.
  21. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    I have corrected the accelerator pump issue that I did not know I was having. The throttle shaft was wiggling where the linkage connects. I secured it. The accelerator pump was not going up enough for it to get a long stream, it stopped about halfway through the throttle opening. I added a couple washers that are the size of the linkage so it won’t bind. Now when idling and the pedal is pressed it revs beautifully. I increased the idle to 700rpm and when I put it in gear and released the clutch it dropped down to 350rpm. I released the brake, pushed the accelerator, and.... it stalled. So I started it again, put it in gear, released the clutch (dropped to 350rpm again), I pushed the accelerator very very slowly so it started to raise the rpms, released the brake and it took off very slowly. So obviously the issue is that the engine drops too low in gear when stopped. How do I correct that? Even at 700rpm idle it dropped in half. So does that mean I need to put the idle at 800-900 to get 400-450 in gear at stop? I know that can’t make sense to do.
  22. Fleet Meadow

    Water Distribution Tube/Overheating

    This engine has never been rebuilt and it doesn’t leak, there is no smoke, and it, with the exception of overheating and a stumble at the initial acceleration that I mentioned in another post, runs and idles smoothly and comfortably. There are no bubbles in the coolant to indicate a head gasket issue. So I’d like to not rebuild it at this time if I can get away with it. I just did that this year with my Cadillac and would like a little break from that.
  23. Fleet Meadow

    Water Distribution Tube/Overheating

    The thermostat is 160 like the book says. I’ve tried to do everything the way the book says. The temps that I said in the original post are infared readings. The temp of the top of the block is generally the same from front to back. I do know I need to flush the system again and wanted to use the wood bleach crystals but nowhere have I seen an amount to be put in that is recommended. Everyone says put crystals in and run it then flush it. As for the dashboard gauge there are no numbers. The book says that of the 4 lines on the gauge the first from the left is cold, the second is winter normal operating, the third is summer normal operating, and the fourth far right is hot. When idling it usually stays around winter normal. When driving slowly it is in between winter and summer. When driving 45-50+ it passes summer within about 5-10 miles and keeps creeping up. The engine never pings or bangs and will run strong even when it’s overheating.
  24. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    I cannot remember exactly what I used but it was a degreasing agent that I let the parts soak in then I scrubbed them with a rotating brush that looks like an electric toothbrush.
  25. Fleet Meadow

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    Could a leak in the intake manifold cause the hesitation at initial acceleration? Could it run itself too lean initially and then straighten out?