Riviera63

Members
  • Content Count

    643
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Riviera63

  1. Custom it is. That is a great deal. What is that in 2018 dollars? Wouldn't it be nice to be able to customize again and make a few choices with the vehicles we buy today instead of other people deciding what we can and cannot have. Bill
  2. I think Bob's confusion may be the use of the word "custom". I have always heard the non-standard interior referred to as the "deluxe interior". Whether this is right or wrong I don't know. I think custom may carry a little different connotation than deluxe. The 63 color -trim book doesn't really make any terminology designation when it shows the custom or deluxe interior. It just says " Standard Trim Not Shown". In the 1963 color-trim book it seems to show that the standard interior is the only interior that comes with all vinyl and that the custom or deluxe interior comes with the choice of cloth with vinyl trim or leather with vinyl trim. Bill
  3. Have had 3 different buttons pop off on my car. The top half will pop back on. Easier to do if you can get to the backside of the button where where it goes through the seat cushion and apply pressure from the backside while pushing on from the front. Not essential though. I applied some epoxy just to make sure they did not pop off again. Seems to have worked so far. Bill
  4. I just purchased a beautiful NOS tail light lens with center medallion from Tom Mooney. Of course, now I need another one to match this because it looks so nice. If anyone has a 1963 NOS tail light light lens with center medallion that they would like to part with or know of anyone that may have one please PM me. I know that CARS, Inc. sells the repros but, I would like to see if I could find the OEM first. If someone has just the NOS 1963 center medallion (if they produced them separately) I would be interested in that. The part number for the lens is 5953877. Thanks. Bill
  5. Revision of this post. What I said about the pigtail is correct. Tom T. (telriv) got back to me and said he had to recant what he said. He bought his light as an add on option 50 years ago and the memory was sketchy. He now remembers that he left the original trunk light in the upper right hand corner. The directions with the light directed him to put the light in the position shown in the pictures, I asked him what he did for power and will update as soon as I hear from him. Bill
  6. My standard trunk light has the same short pigtail with the orange power wire right there where the light is. I believe that you remove the standard light and replace it with the reel out light. I have been in contact with Tom T. (telriv). He stated that when mounting the reel out light he used the hole that was used to mount the original trunk light as one of the mounting holes and that the new light plugged into the original power wire. Bill
  7. Ed, We could go back and forth about this forever. You and Tom think you are correct, I get that. Once again that brochure is from 1968 and what is correct in 1968 might not be correct for 1963-1967. Just as what is correct placement on a Buick is not correct for a Pontiac, Oldsmobile etc. Once again, no one has stated one way is right or wrong, just gathering info. In the end it may not make any difference at all but, I reserve the right to gather information and make an informed decision based on that information. If anyone out there has constructive information on this topic I would like to hear what you have to say. Otherwise, I am out. Bill
  8. I don't recall that anyone has discounted any of the above references and said one is right and one is wrong. As you can see there are 3 quotes listed here with 3 different options. Tom T's placement on his car makes sense as the reel out lights have a small pig tail identical to the pig tail the standard trunk light plugs into. A central location also makes sense. However, is what is right for 1968 going to be right for 1963(even though not an option), 1964, 1965 .1966 or 1967? It is removable so you can put it wherever you want. I think the original reason of the thread and the reason of my reviving the thread is to gather information and gather as much information as they can before deciding on a course of action. I'm sure there are others that may benefit from the information gathered here as they do on other threads. I don't think someone should be criticized for wanting to gather as much information as they can to find out what is correct and what is not. If I didn't care I wouldn't ask. It may well be that no one knows the answer but, I would like to ask first. I'll get the info I can and make an informed decision. Bill
  9. Thanks for that. I was there and missed that one. Do you remember what year? The plot thickens. Bill
  10. Rodney, It just runs along the firewall and along the inner fender well. I just used any of the metal tabs on the firewall and the black plastic clam shell clamps on the fender well that hold other electrical wires to secure it. Bill
  11. I am reviving this thread as I would like to get one of these lights for my 1963 and would like to know where it is located and how connected. What telriv says makes sense from the little bit of info I have been able to get from other sources. I was told that you remove the standard trunk light and the reel out light connects into the orange wire where the old light did. I inspected my trunk light and it has a small black wire that is a few inches long which connects to the orange power wire. I have seen this same small black wire on reel out lights I have viewed online. I was also told that the light is attached by screws into clips that attach to the trunk lid. I have also seen lights online that have clips and screws. I would appreciate if there is anyone out there that can confirm or deny the things I have been told and/or add more info. A picture of the correct light or a picture of the light mounted to a trunk lid would be super. Thanks. Bill
  12. Hi Rodney, I got some pics. Right or wrong this is what is on my car. Pic 1-Horn arrangement Pic 2-Single wire connects to large horn Pic 3-Single wire from large horn goes to small horn and connects Pic 4-Wire from small horn connector goes to firewall and runs along side of fender Pic 5-Wire from small horn connects to connector on horn relay where blue wire was originally in stock horn set up Pic 6-Small pig tail wire from end of 4-note horn wire connects to blue wire which runs to stock horns in grill Hope this helps. Bill
  13. Hi Rodney, I will try to get out to where the Riv is stored and get you some pictures this morning. Bill
  14. I am remembering off the top of my head. I think they are really easy, Put the rear window down and there is only 1 screw to remove and you can pull it out. Bill
  15. This may help you identify in some cases if the numbering is still visible. My motors were marked 7313 for L (driver's) and 7312 (passenger's). Bill
  16. As Ed said if you don't drive in cold weather climates the heat riser is not necessary. I live in Wisconsin and the heat riser on my old manifold was removed as it was non-functioning and the heat riser on the manifold I just put in is permanently in the open position. I have had no problems. It was only low 40's today and I took the Riv for a nice drive before storing for the winter. The car warmed up fine. When I got my car the choke tube was rusted out. We made a new one with 1/4" brake line. Works just fine. Do not buy the insulating sleeve from CARS, Inc. Theirs is not what you want. 1st picture. I bought one last year and it was crap. They said they were going to look into getting an original style but, do not know if they have done so. Go to any of the Corvette parts supplier and you can get a choke tube insulating sleeve like the originals. Last Picture. Bill
  17. They face each other and rotate. If you look at the backside of each nozzle on the windshield side you can see that it is beveled so that when it rotates it is pointing up at the windshield. 1st pic passenger side, 2nd pic driver's side. Bill
  18. Hi Tom, Go to E-bay(or Amazon) and search for "universal windscreen pump". There are many that are under $4.00 US with free shipping. Bill https://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-Windscreen-Wiper-Washer-Pump-for-Car-Van-Bus-Truck-Universal-AWP01/253067203175?epid=2147586735&hash=item3aebfb1267:g:~6sAAOSwN3pbM2D5:rk:2:pf:0&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pc-12V-2-Pin-Universal-Car-Van-Bus-Truck-Windshield-Windscreen-Washer-Pump-BT/162608055831?epid=2147414187&hash=item25dc320617:g:NqQAAOSw~R1bMfxL:rk:3:pf:0&vxp=mtr https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Windscreen-Washer-Windshield-Water/dp/B079PYX2Q7/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541075242&sr=1-2&keywords=universal+windshield+washer+pump
  19. Ed, You are welcome. The air cleaner had already been painted before I bought the car. It has the crinkle finish and I'm thinking that it may be the picture/lighting which is causing it to look a little more red. Bill
  20. My 63 Riviera has that same set up. All of my 63 Pontiacs were keyed this way as well. Bill
  21. Hi Ed, Thanks for the kind words. They are greatly appreciated. I like others have gone through dozens of different paints in trying to detail their car. After all of this trial and error through the years the paints I have pictured are now my go to paints for any or all of the following reasons: easy to access or available locally, give a quality finish and are reasonably priced. Also not pictured plenty of elbow grease, degreaser, parts wash, wire brushes, steel wool and rags. ENGINE-PlastiKote 207 Aluminum for the cooler areas of the engine and Rust-Oleum High Heat Ultra Silver 270201(grill paint) for the high heat areas. The Rust-Oleum is really great. It matches the Plastikote, holds up great under heat, is cheap and available locally. When my shop replaced my exhaust manifold they sprayed it with this and it still looks great. Once the Plastikote is gone I will stick to this exclusively. ENGINE BAY-Eastwood Underhood Matte Black I love this stuff! While it is more expensive than off the shelf paint you can find locally, it dries almost instantly, gives a nice smooth finish, doesn't run, is durable and a can goes a long way. BOLTS, NUTS, SCREWS, ETC.-While it may not be absolutely correct. I love the look of the high quality metal that most of the fasteners were made of and want it to show, I wire wheel these to get rust, grease and grime off and spray with several coats of gloss clear. This is cheap and readily available locally. BARE METAL PARTS-For the bare metal parts like hood hinges, hood latches, brake booster, etc. I like Eastwood Stainless Steel Detail Coating. It dries quickly, gives a nice finish, durable and goes a long way. I also have pictured Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy 7887 Stainless Steel because even though the caps don't appear to match it gives a finish very similar to the Eastwood. It is cheaper and is available locally. I use this paint in other areas as well, seat tracks, the post of the jack, various parts of the mechanisms inside the doors, etc. I have also attached some more up to date pictures of my engine bay. Bill P.S. One I forgot as it is visible in the engine compartment is Rust-Oleum 7278830 Metallic Matte Silver-cheap, available locally, dries fast and looks nice. I used this when I redid the silver top (visible in the engine pictures) and silver inside the grille. I also used this when I redid the turn signal bezels and the lower turn signal extensions. I thought it was a nice match.
  22. Tom, My car had an aftermarket pump it when I bought it. It is very small and mounted on the firewall. It works very well. It is small enough that you could probably mount it anywhere. I'm pretty sure you could pick one of these up at any parts store. Bill