37S2de

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About 37S2de

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  • Birthday 09/12/1947
  1. Rex beat me to it. Order from Cislak and don't worry about it being right Tom
  2. I would be shocked if any Southern Yellow Pine was used in car bodies. By the time Studebaker got into the car business they had many years experience building wagons and carriages. They knew how to season wood and which hardwoods would endure. Even the Model A's I've owned had oak and ash structural members. My '47 Hudson pickup had white oak as pickup box flooring. My understanding is that ash was the wood of choice because of its durability and the ability to "hold" tacks. While there were still hardwood forests in the north, the raw wood may not have been more expensive at first. Now, of course, it takes longer to grow a harvestable ash or oak than a pine. The hardwoods were certainly more easily "machined" than softwoods. Tom
  3. I also stumped Axelrod a few months ago when I broke one of the "Control Beam" lenses on my '35 Commander. He and Bob Kapteyn were the first people I called. Axlerod knew exactly what I was looking for, but said he had not seen one of those lenses in 30 or 40 years. I did finally track down a lens from another vendor The reflector mentioned here, if it fits '35 President, will also be correct for a '35 Commander. It is made to accept all the fancy stuff on the back that allows 6 different headlight beam positions. Studebaker part number 261201 for left hand drive, 261202 for right hand drive. Tom
  4. Check out Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA. (Google it). They carry what is called "Short grain sedan decking". This is the material that is probably the closest to the original on your carHere is a photo of it installed on my '35 sedan. Tom
  5. The last reproduction number plate that I used on an antique Studebaker I had to have engraved so the upper case "I" and the lower case "b" would appear correct. I looked for years trying to find stamp sets that would have those characters, and finally gave up. All the stamp sets I looked at had all upper case letters, and the "I" didn't have a cap or foot on it. I'd also note that if you have a nine in your number, that it is like the lower case "b" used for the six, but with the straight leg on the other side, of course. There are some engraving methods that look more like stamping a than others. You have to be real specific with the engraver on what you need. I went to four shops before one agreed to my requirements. I don't know how plentiful those Rockne plates are, but I got my last Studebaker plate from the LaVines and I don't think they have my style anymore. Tom
  6. Here's a question that can probably only be answered by those who have "been there, done that". How do you remove the wiper motors on a '35 sedan? I have no problem getting the control knobs and the nut on the outside that holds the main shaft (and thus the whole motor) off, but I just can't figure out a way to wiggle the motor so that either the control shafts or the main shaft go far enough to allow motor removal. I have the glove box out, so that is not in the way. The most obvious answer to me is that the whole dash has to be either removed or at least loosened enough to move the motors. This is not something that I'm thrilled about. The shop manual is, of course, silent on this issue. Who has been successful? Thanks. Tom
  7. As the old country song says, "I'm that Yankee boy you been hearing about. I'm from 'way up north around Shreveport" Tom
  8. I saw this car at the AACA meet in Houma, LA. Very nice. First class restoration. Tom
  9. Thanks George. I appreciate the kind comments. I expect to be driving this car all around South Bend, so you're welcome to a longer ride any time. I'm hoping to park my truck and trailer at the ASC host hotel and then using the '35 for local transport and, of course, the ASC tour. The meet is only 4 1/2 weeks away. I am really looking forward to this one. South Bend always seems so special. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to Pate. Haven't found a Studebaker part in years. How about you? Tom
  10. Once I found the tube and realized what it was, I couldn't resist installing it on my '35 Commander. The bracket ( or pipe clamp) pictured in my last post was just right to hold the tube centered in a hole in the original engine pan. The bracket is held in place by an oil pan bolt that is longer than all the others and extends above the flange of the engine block. The bracket had traces of engine paint on it, so I'm confident that this is where it goes. I'm sorry about the shadows in the picture What a good day. I learned something and my car is that much closer to as originally built. Tom
  11. Here is what I believe the "wee expanded housing" at the bottom end of the tube should look like. In this case the ball is held in place by a small cotter pin. Until Spinneyhill's response I wasn't picturing it in my head. Then I dimly remembered having something that looked like a small rosebud heating tip for an oxy-acetylene torch. I'll not confess to how long I spent rooting around in boxes that haven't been opened in years before I found it. Tom
  12. I received my fuel pump back from rebuild 2 days ago Thanks for the tip on the elbow fitting at the carb. In looking at how to run the line from the pump to the carb I realized that if I used an elbow fitting at the pump also, I could run the line neatly with just three bends. I could have probably gotten away with two bends, but the bend down near the pump is to clear the heat shield that will be installed next. Tom
  13. Does anyone have a picture of how the fuel line runs from the fuel pump up to the carburetor on a '35 Commander or President? A previous owner of my car installed an electric fuel pump and bypassed the mechanical fuel pump completely. I'll get the original mechanical pump back soon from rebuild and want to install the line correctly. I've tried to imagine where it should go, but all the options seem really awkward or too close to a major heat source (exhaust manifold) or both. Thanks. Tom
  14. Hi all. I hope everyone is going to have a good time in York. I can't make it. The new top material should be just like the original --- you just can't tell it because the original is so worn. It's short-grain sedan decking material available from Restoration Specialties and Supply in Windber, PA. I strayed from the fold a bit, Rex. The yellow car is a '32 Chevrolet roadster. I'm hoping to get the body off the frame next week and then the restoration should (emphasis on the "should") go fairly fast. I have another row of those hens teeth hanging above those pictured that you can't see. Tom
  15. A quick update---I just tried to post pictures on the Studebaker forum (where I normally hang out) and everything worked just fine. I'm back to being a happy camper. Tom