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About 37S2de

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/12/1947
  1. Here's a question that can probably only be answered by those who have "been there, done that". How do you remove the wiper motors on a '35 sedan? I have no problem getting the control knobs and the nut on the outside that holds the main shaft (and thus the whole motor) off, but I just can't figure out a way to wiggle the motor so that either the control shafts or the main shaft go far enough to allow motor removal. I have the glove box out, so that is not in the way. The most obvious answer to me is that the whole dash has to be either removed or at least loosened enough to move the motors. This is not something that I'm thrilled about. The shop manual is, of course, silent on this issue. Who has been successful? Thanks. Tom
  2. As the old country song says, "I'm that Yankee boy you been hearing about. I'm from 'way up north around Shreveport" Tom
  3. I saw this car at the AACA meet in Houma, LA. Very nice. First class restoration. Tom
  4. Thanks George. I appreciate the kind comments. I expect to be driving this car all around South Bend, so you're welcome to a longer ride any time. I'm hoping to park my truck and trailer at the ASC host hotel and then using the '35 for local transport and, of course, the ASC tour. The meet is only 4 1/2 weeks away. I am really looking forward to this one. South Bend always seems so special. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to Pate. Haven't found a Studebaker part in years. How about you? Tom
  5. Once I found the tube and realized what it was, I couldn't resist installing it on my '35 Commander. The bracket ( or pipe clamp) pictured in my last post was just right to hold the tube centered in a hole in the original engine pan. The bracket is held in place by an oil pan bolt that is longer than all the others and extends above the flange of the engine block. The bracket had traces of engine paint on it, so I'm confident that this is where it goes. I'm sorry about the shadows in the picture What a good day. I learned something and my car is that much closer to as originally built. Tom
  6. Here is what I believe the "wee expanded housing" at the bottom end of the tube should look like. In this case the ball is held in place by a small cotter pin. Until Spinneyhill's response I wasn't picturing it in my head. Then I dimly remembered having something that looked like a small rosebud heating tip for an oxy-acetylene torch. I'll not confess to how long I spent rooting around in boxes that haven't been opened in years before I found it. Tom
  7. I received my fuel pump back from rebuild 2 days ago Thanks for the tip on the elbow fitting at the carb. In looking at how to run the line from the pump to the carb I realized that if I used an elbow fitting at the pump also, I could run the line neatly with just three bends. I could have probably gotten away with two bends, but the bend down near the pump is to clear the heat shield that will be installed next. Tom
  8. Does anyone have a picture of how the fuel line runs from the fuel pump up to the carburetor on a '35 Commander or President? A previous owner of my car installed an electric fuel pump and bypassed the mechanical fuel pump completely. I'll get the original mechanical pump back soon from rebuild and want to install the line correctly. I've tried to imagine where it should go, but all the options seem really awkward or too close to a major heat source (exhaust manifold) or both. Thanks. Tom
  9. Hi all. I hope everyone is going to have a good time in York. I can't make it. The new top material should be just like the original --- you just can't tell it because the original is so worn. It's short-grain sedan decking material available from Restoration Specialties and Supply in Windber, PA. I strayed from the fold a bit, Rex. The yellow car is a '32 Chevrolet roadster. I'm hoping to get the body off the frame next week and then the restoration should (emphasis on the "should") go fairly fast. I have another row of those hens teeth hanging above those pictured that you can't see. Tom
  10. A quick update---I just tried to post pictures on the Studebaker forum (where I normally hang out) and everything worked just fine. I'm back to being a happy camper. Tom
  11. All this work was done in early February, but this is the first time I've been able to attach pictures since this AACA forum went through its "upgrade" work. I am am really pleased with the results and no more water raining into the car. An added benefit is that the car smells a lot better now that the mouse nests are gone. Tom
  12. I'm doing my best to keep the original appearance of my '35 Commander sedan while I work to make it a reliable driver. One of the things that had to be replaced is the roof. It had so many holes and tears that I couldn't even wash the car without water raining inside. When we sliced the old top material off, we found that the padding that is supposed to be between the top material and the chicken wire had all been converted into several large mouse nests over the years. I had to empty my Shop-vac four times before I got all that stuff removed I think the key to the new top was being able to reuse the original moulding rather than a hide-em welt. It was labor-intensive removing all the little tacks while not damaging the mounding. In addition, the original wood framing for the top was in excellent condition. Pictured is Tim Clark. Tim has done all the upholstery work for me for several years ('37 President coupe, '37 Coupe-Express, '63Avanti). i'll start another thread to show more pictures Tom
  13. I, personally, am looking forward to this issue being resolved. I have not been able to post a photo since the "upgrade" I am using an iPad. I take pictures with the iPad and access the forum through the same. Most of my photos are about 1.9 mb. It used to be just four clicks and my photo was attached. I either get a message that says "upload failed" or a message that says "image too large--over 2 mb." This forum used to be the easiest one for me to post pictures on of all the forums I frequent. I don't post often, but when I do, I want to be able to include pictures. Thanks.
  14. I have had several of those taillight bases crack at the back end where they come to a point. I have repaired them using an epoxy product called PC-7. It is very durable and does not shrink when it cures. It is easily sanded, primered and painted. It stays where you put it (I have had experience with JB Weld running off parts in the past.) You can't be in a hurry if you use PC-7. It takes about a week to fully cure. It is also used by many to repair antique steering wheels because while it's curing you can mold it. Eastwood sells it as part of a steering wheel repair package and it is readily available on line. Unless you are very skilled and knowledgeable, putting heat on that old pot metal is likely to destroy it. Tom
  15. Good point on opening up the electrical. I bagged the ends of the wires to prevent inadvertent damage if I moved the wand the wrong way. That 80-year-old wiring is really delicate. I folded the wires out of the way, but didn't have a good enough seal so water got in anyway. I took the brush cover off the generator and there was water in the bottom. I took the cover off the steering gear and that looked OK but I got out as much of the old fluid as I could and filled with fresh. The rubber in the motor mounts is what the British car guys call "perished". Current price at Steele rubber to revulcanize new rubber to the mounts is $100/pair. I sent them off last week. I'm hoping to hear from Steele today to find out how long it will take to get them back to me. Those brake lines are all new. When I bought the car the flex lines were perished (there. I used that word already) and some of the hard lines were soft copper tubing with single flares on the ends. I changed everything. Tom