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About erichill

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/12/1963
  1. Like someone else here mentioned I am 54, so I was just a kid. But my dad was always working on something. It seemed the older cars hew piddled with from the 50-60's were in decent shape but needed mechanical work. But I also remember him getting my grandparents cars that were in late 60's early 70's that were rusted out long before they wore out. My grandfather had a Dodge Dart that the front end nearly fell off it was so badly rusted. He fixed things up to use them as a work car, so we often brush painted them. he took my grandfather's four door Temptest and sawed the middle out of it and welded it back as a two door.
  2. Help Identifying this roadster body

    Restorer32 Yes it definitely is a cut and hammered down coupe body. You can see the straight edges where the windows were and burned off edges elsewhere and hammered over. Bur what coupe had a such an upward sweep towards the back window like this. Most seem the have a flat belt line.
  3. Help Identifying this roadster body

    Yes it was extended about 7 inches. As for a chummy roadster I don't know. Look how much the body slopes up, and on any photos I see of the chummy he body seems relatively flat. If it was that from the factory why the addition, wrong doors, and cut off top? I just can't find anything that fits this look.
  4. I am rebuilding a 1919 Chandler that came with a roadster body that is not original from the cowl back, and I am trying to identify the origins of the rear portion. It looks like it could be form a 1920 Cleveland roadster. Cleveland was a subsidy of Chandler. The body fits perfectly width-wise, but was extended about seven inches . It has bows for a convertible roof, and it looks as of the brackets for the bows to pivot on are original and not added. BUT if you look closely at the edges you can see where they were burned, and hammered over in areas, and straight in other areas like it was originally a coupe. Sure this would not have been done at the factory? The entire car was yellow, and the best I can tell was only painted once, including the back portion in question. The doors are definitely not Chandler as the hinges are external Any ideas?
  5. Chistech , these look great. I can appreciate the work you have done to get them to this point. I am still working away at mine. Been down with the flu and haven't gotten into my shop in well over a week.
  6. Christech, thanks for heads up. I have only done one coat on one wheel so far, then I got sick with the flu and haven't done much works since. As a few people suggested I thinned out the varnish in hopes that it would seep into the wood easier. I am expecting it to take a while between coats to cure as my shop in my basement is not heated and can stay in the high 50- low 60's in the shop this time of the year. I will let you know how things progress.
  7. 46 Woodie Amen to that. Last week I just finally decided that I will continue to get more and more answers and advice. Spar varnish was the common thread, so spar varnish it is. Rather than trying to locate some specific brand I found Rustoleum spar varnish at the hardware store and that is what I am now using.
  8. 46 Woodie I agree, and I decided to stick with tried and true. The car will see little use, stored indoors, so its exposure will be limited. I believe I will be happy with my choice. You said a mouthful when you mentioned teaches patience. It sure does. The whole project of rebuilding an old car from pieces is a test in patience, and some steps like sanding wheels can't be rushed. Eric
  9. Well I am using marine Spar Varnish. Here is first coat applied yesterday. Will sand 220 between coats. Was not looking for perfection, and I only have so much time and patience sanding, but I am pleased with the results. Thank you everyone for your input. Frank29U your wheels look great, and I can appreciate the amount of work you probably have in each one.
  10. 46 Woodies, thanks for the brans name, I will look into it.
  11. How Many Are Enough?

    When your spouse threatens to leave over your last car purchase, sell one, and that's the right amount.
  12. Spinnyhill, thanks for the very logical approach to dealing with this issue. I was thinking last night, and wondering if there is reason to not just apply Rustoleum clear enamel? Wouldn't that be the same if I were to just paint them with enamel paint which is the paint one would use if they were not messing with two part automotive urethane paint. I know I will not be inclined to remove the wheels every few years, and sand and revarnish them, so I think that's out for me. I guess its coming down to tung oil or paint (clear or pigmented)
  13. Thanks for the input everyone. I have a blasting cabinet, and I may try the walnut shells on the remaining two wheels. I had not thought about sealing the wood and then using an automotive clear coat. Will have to look into the in that to make sure all adheres to one another. I will do more research on using 100% Tung oil. The car will not see a whole lot of use, and will be stored indoors. Thanks, Eric
  14. Edinmass, I agree if I were restoring the car I would repaint the wheel, as the original color is yellow. The body is not original, so there is no point trying to restore to original condition, and I love the look of varnished wood wheels. I am rebuilding it as a tribute to my father who never got around to working on it. I have never worked on anything this old, so its a learning process. I started with rebuilding the motor, then worked my way back through the drive train, and now am on to the wheels. Brakes and steering are next. Eric