ollinger123

Any recommendations for places to find shoes for this type of vehicle?

Below is a picture of the Left shoe. If also has some groves, but not nearly as deep as the Right. Also the inside of the drum is generally smooth, but it does have some slight grooves towards the inside - not the kind of groove that would do that type of damage though. What would you recommend? Thanks!

Well it worked, I got the hub off! No bang on this one, it just came free after 75+ hammer strikes. Now the reason I took off the hub in the first place is because I was getting knocking sounds when applying the brakes. There is still good material on the liners, but I do see on the right back of the liner where the material is gouged away. Not sure what would cause this, since the drum is in good shape?? Could this be causing the knocking? Any other suggestions on what could cause the noises in the wheel? Thanks everyone for all their help!

The studs are attached to the drum

Thanks; Is there any risk to damaging the studs, axel, or bearings by swinging too hard?

Hello Everyone; I have a 1936 Oldsmobile F36 that I'm struggling to get the rear hub removed. It has a knocking sound when the brake is applied. I tried using the hub puller shown below, but it's not budging. Also the owners manual says; Don't use a knock-off tool - use a J626 tool - whatever that is?? I'm afraid of breaking something if I keep hammering too hard. Is this the correct tool to use, and if so will I do any damage by pounding on the puller like I have been doing? Thanks!

Is this still for sale?

Thanks for all the advice, it runs on with the choke all the way in now. Now I just need to figure out what the adjustment is to prevent it from back-firing once it's in 3rd gear...

Hello everyone, I have a 1953, 3100, 216 Chevy Truck. The engine idles ok, but when I accelerate, the engine bogs down - sounding like it's sucking air. Here's what I've done so far: Plugged the vacuum hose leading to the wipers, Replaced the fuel pump, Changed out the old gas, Dipped and cleaned the carburetor, Checked the gap on the points. Please let me know what I'm missing... Thanks, Jon

I finished cleaning the carb. Works better than it did, but not 100% off choke. I think it should be good enough for what I need. Thanks for the tips.

Thanks for the feedback, it seems the low speed fuel jet is not working. I will pull apart the carb to see if anything is blocked.

Hello everyone, I have a 1923 Dort with a 6 cyl. Falls engine. In order to the engine to run, I have to pull out the choke about a 1/4". I don't believe there are any vacuum leaks, so my guess is I don't have enough compression to generate the vacuum need to draw in the fuel without a partial choke. I currently have a vacuum tank between the gas tank and the carb. Would adding an electric fuel pump help, and if so where would I install it? Thanks, Jon

The have an owners manual that states the clearance at .010"

Hello, I have a 1923 Dort with a 6 cyl. Falls engine. I had posted a question last year regarding while smoke blowing from the exhaust. I believe I fixed that by replacing the head gasket. Now that I've replaced the head with the new gasket, I need to reset the valves. From my understand I just need to set the gap at .010 while the value is in a closed position. Is it that simple, or is there more to it? Thanks, Jon

I drained oil, and yes there is water mixed in it. To answer Bud's question, the engine ran fairly smooth before this issue, but only with choke partially pulled (vacuum issue). It was not a regular runner, just around the farm and only a few times on the road. My assumption at this point is that the cylinder head needs to be removed and is most likely a blown cylinder head. This seems to be the most likely way water can enter the engine. Is there any recommendations on gasket material to make a new one? Located in West Bend, WI