OldGerman

Just noticed, the driver side outside head bolts connecting the PS-Pump bracket are not in correct order. Is this a plastic timing chain sprocket ? Maybe a good time to change over to a True Roller Timing chain with solid steel sproket (TA performance).

Thank you all for sharing your experience. Went to 3 different homedepots and all of them quitted to sell the MAP gas. Took a maxigas instead, which is also a mix of different gases, but it does not generate enough heat either. To get the job done, I've cut off the rotten studs and drilled them out. Took me one hour in small steps to drill straight and cut the thread. The heat stove is a straight pipe and it looks solid. Now it needs a little bit of cleaning and a ceramic coating to get back to the engine.

Muffler shops are not so common here in Germany, but I will find a shop which has the right equipment. It's a hobby for me, so I can not buy everything for single use. But thank you all for sharing your experience and tips. Most shops are not used to repair old rusty stuff, but just repairing 3 years old lease cars and exchanging new parts. Need to find someone who is willing to support rusty stuff.

In the process of removing the flapper from the exhaust manifold, it seems the biggest challenge is to replace the flange bolts. Easy to cut the flapper shaft and drive out the axis, cutting a thread in the holes to plug them with a screw. But this damm 1/2 bolts won't come out. I have no acetylene gas burner, just a propane burner with no success. Now I let the whole thing soak in vanilla yogurt (no, that's 60% acetic acid). I hope it can penetrate and loosen the rust a bit, then we'll move on..

That modified VW tool did a great job and handled the 300Nm torque with ease. Amazone: https://www.amazon.de/CCLIFE-Nockenwellenrad-Gegenhalteschlüssel-Kurbelwellenrad-Riemenscheibe/dp/B0C39R5S7G/ref=sr_1_5?c=ts&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YqCIBRjuO_lindETG4SR8Ss72gO8rk-ObYSz5AWPDvEk0vW8dJcYCHLBPc92y5tlrDbtMOdY0BKc1jD4nXgKHBou62C2oBbv11wVI-btsUAb2uHs99wlcrXtI7Umdvlc5m4ZsdG9eY4gdF-Ws08JSdXfAkOJCNPKSSd5ERSlJRGyU-660gaiyUe0-ot1orYI-lCAYsHoDXTFom3ZWKpsxBzi71wtKNmxQZWGHubOTf5-WvnlQolewMtApfZUiTfyznqKapskenDIgOJ-l8vH8GZPqTBW6RukU1Nev5atJ8o.5nCaoETKYWz-p98WEnKo8y93JsgxphPbFGU24L4vB5E&dib_tag=se&keywords=Nockenwellenwerkzeuge&qid=1710402787&s=automotive&sr=1-5&ts_id=2502069031

I‘ve searched google for a balancer holding tool available for European brand engines, easy and cheap to obtain here in Germany. Found a VW tool and modified a bit to make it fit the nailhead balancer. It cost 20$ including shipping. Not yet used and tested for it’s limit. I‘m excited to see if it will hold up the 320Nm torque.

John, Thank you for the brake booster hint. I think mine is a Morain Booster (with the external vacuum canister located on the inner fender). I had it rebuild by Booster Dewey a while back, but not much miles on it since then. So I'm confident it holds vacuum. Before that I had a "his" noise when standing at a red light with the foot on the break pedal. As long as possible, I would like to keep carb and air cleaner original. I'm not looking for extra power, but want to gain the maximum of what is still possible with the original setup and the existing deterioration of all components involved. I'm a cruiser, no racer, but I would like to bring back a little bit of it's former performance. Best Regards, Frank

Where are you located ? 4GC is a heavy beast, 6.3 kg. Oversea shipping to Germany !?

I'm just in progress of redoing my original Rochester 4GC the second time on my 1963 Riviera. I did it first time in 2017 and the car ran fine except of accelarating on road climbs (fuel starvation/hesitation in accelaration). That could be related to a not properly working power system/power valve on the primary carburetor side. It feels a bit sticky. But my question is about the Main Metering jets. The Chassis Service Manual provides some specs for the Riviera (4700) Carburetor # 7023040: Production jets should be .053" & .076" wheras I found .052" & .080". So, not a big difference in size. Unfortunately my carb ID-tag was missing, so it can be any carb swapped in from another vehicle (engine was swapped in history as well) Anyone has his original 4GC Carb main jet size in memory ? Thank you.

Performance wise, as far as this concerns us careful vintage car drivers, coating and also polishing affects the heat transfer/ dissipation in a negative way. Rough cast surface is larger then polished.

I don't know why you want to remove the front hub from the drum. If it is to turne out the drum liner on a lathe, it can be advantageous to leave everything together. However, the bearings then may have to be pressed out. But that's not a problem and new ones come in straight away. I don't now whether it will cause any trouble (runout, vibration) when rivets have been removed.

Awesome, today a 12V battery charger made in China fits into your pocket. but it will for sure not last 80 years.

Germany’s politicians and EU parliament decided to prohibid Sales of new vehicles with combustion engines in 2035. So Bosch, Mann-Hummel, Mahle, and all the other old german automotive suppliers have to drive the change towards electric automobiles to avoid bankruptcy. Who cares about a 3years only 60 years old pancake Filter ? It‘s totally absurdity that electric car sales numbers are so low in Germany due to lack of charging infrastructure and way overpriced 3 tons E-SUV‘s built by BMW , Mercedes, Volvo.... chinese brands are filling in with small and medium size cars now. this premium car sale strategy could be a fail...... to stop development of high efficient and clean Diesel and gasoline engines is a big fail as well. Just my opinion. How is it related to pancake filters ? there is no business case for it. Just have to find that one forgotten storage full of NOS WR9FP Spark Plugs. Just a dream.

Any source for the brass 1/2“ UNF nuts? Not easy to find in metric Europe.

Gungeey, How ist that red toothed wedge made from plastic homemade ? 3D printed or cut out from something else ? Where did you get this ?

Does anyone know, if this Summit crankshaft holder tool SUM 900179 made for LS engines would fit the nailhead balancer in terms of inner and outer diameter ? additional holes for holding bolts could be added in the correct nailhead bolt circle diameter, but is there a chance for direct fit ?

Please don’t ask me why this post show up 5 times....

So I‘ve measured new true roller timing chain slack. With one side under tension the other side had about 8mm slack. I was surprised, that this leads to only 1 degree retard angle on the cam sprocket ( equals 2 deg. On the crank sprocket). Please take into account that these measurement was not very precise. the picture does not show the dial indicator, I had it already removed from the engine block deck.

So I‘ve measured new true roller timing chain slack. With one side under tension the other side had about 8mm slack. I was surprised, that this leads to only 1 degree retard angle on the cam sprocket ( equals 2 deg. On the crank sprocket). Please take into account that these measurement was not very precise. the picture does not show the dial indicator, I had it already removed from the engine block deck.

So I‘ve measured new true roller timing chain slack. With one side under tension the other side had about 8mm slack. I was surprised, that this leads to only 1 degree retard angle on the cam sprocket ( equals 2 deg. On the crank sprocket). Please take into account that these measurement was not very precise. the picture does not show the dial indicator, I had it already removed from the engine block deck.

So I‘ve measured new true roller timing chain slack. With one side under tension the other side had about 8mm slack. I was surprised, that this leads to only 1 degree retard angle on the cam sprocket ( equals 2 deg. On the crank sprocket). Please take into account that these measurement was not very precise. the picture does not show the dial indicator, I had it already removed from the engine block deck.

So I‘ve measured new true roller timing chain slack. With one side under tension the other side had about 8mm slack. I was surprised, that this leads to only 1 degree retard angle on the cam sprocket ( equals 2 deg. On the crank sprocket). Please take into account that these measurement was not very precise. the picture does not show the dial indicator, I had it already removed from the engine block deck.

So I‘ve measured new true roller timing chain slack. With one side under tension the other side had about 8mm slack. I was surprised, that this leads to only 1 degree retard angle on the cam sprocket ( equals 2 deg. On the crank sprocket). Please take into account that these measurement was not very precise. the picture does not show the dial indicator, I had it already removed from the engine block deck.

What comes next ? Thinking about hoarding a bunch of oil filters and spark plugs.

Now, 6 years later after about only 2,600 miles driven, The excel list containing all my fuel bills and mileage entered, calculates an average of below 25liter/100 km = 9.4 Miles/gallon. I think that was acceptable given the traffic and landscape conditions in my area. A few longer Autobahn rides had significant lower consumptions. I‘m now in process of a second rebuilt with a kit from carb King together with a new timing gear chain. That will take some time but I hope to be ready for the next season. Frank.