chistech

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Everything posted by chistech

  1. Purchased this car last year out of what appears to be a long time storage of a large collection of automobiles. With about an hours worth of time I was able to get it up and running and it ran well. I put it back in storage for about 6 months and recently started it's restoration. With a little research done off the sill data plate, I determined that the car was a early manufactured (first week of Feb) 6cyl, 6 wooden wheeled model, with just 249 produced. While it appeared mostly complete, there were some unique parts missing. What was missing was the decarbonizer, the Stromberg automatic choke, the proper air filter, the golf bag door lock, the rumble lid handle, and the rumble seats themselves. While the majority of the missing parts are year specific for the 32-33 model years, the rumble seats and the missing rumble latch are the same as 32' Chevrolet. Turns out the Olds DCR is almost identical in many ways to the 32' Chevrolet Cabriolet. While Olds called this car a "convertible roadster'' it is really a cabriolet with door windows. With the help of three fellow Olds enthusiasts, I've been able to procure all the missing parts but one. That one part was the golf bag door lock which I was just able to get the latch part, including the cam. The lock cylinder and lock tumbler were gone. I made up the missing cylinder with the help of a machinist friend and now have all the parts for my restoration. I will try and post all my progress as I go. First 4 pictures was how it looked when I first bought it. Second 4 show it when I stored it after purchase and quickly put up the roof and some fenders on for a look.
  2. While it doesn’t seem like I’ve gotten much done on the Olds, I’ve actually gotten more done than I thought. Joe and I have been doing a ton of research on the rumble seat are of the interior, concentrating on the panels around the golf bag door and the rumble cushion hold down straps. Not to bore anyone but joe was able to locate what seems to be the only rumble seat 32 Olds with its complete original interior panels (they have been removed for a complete restoration but all are intact and can be used to make authentic OEM panels. I was able to determine, with the help of a couple fellow VCCA members who own Cabriolets, exactly what the reason is for the notched rumble cushion stop blocks and pins for the cushion hold down straps. All this info will allow Joe, myself, any other 32 Olds owner,and even GM Cabriolet owners to restore our cars to a correct condition. I also got a call yesterday from my paint shop telling me my wheels had been primed!😀. So tonight I went in and started learning how to wet sand. While I had an idea, doing some in the past, I was in bad need of a refresher course. Using guide coat paint, the two wheels I was able to get done, got sanded with 400 and will get a light going over with 600. The two I got done look and feel so smooth. Starting to get a little excited about how nice they’re going to look once painted.
  3. Went to the paint shop today and checked the rumble seat for fit. All appears to fit correct and it looks good. I have always felt my lid leaned too far back and assumed I had the correct bumpers. After speaking with joe who owns a 32’ Olds coupe, I determined I have the wrong bumpers in my car as they should be at least another 1/2” taller than what I have now. That explains the extra lean the the closeness of the lid to the lower sheet metal. Photo 2 shows the lid on the bumpers. Photo 3 shows the lid propped off the stops about 1/2”, and photo 4 shows the rubber bumper that’s too low.
  4. Covered the rumble cushion and the rumble seat back tonight. The rumble seat was not overly stuffed on the GM cars of the era and the covers from LB/HC are not overly big so care has to be taken not to overstuff then as the directions state. The rumble cushion is actually a hemmed edge cover that gets nailed into the perimeter lower side edge which has a wood nail area. Because the whole lower edge in the front is visible I used old school black tacks and not staples. In order to get the seat springs compacted enough to tack the seat cover all the way around, I used a a clampdown system I developed for myself. After the burlap was attached, the jute pad and cotton wadding applied to the springs, I put the cushion upholstery on the assembly then flipped it over with the springs up. I then put a 2x8 across the seat springs and hold each end down with bar clamps. I compress the whole assembly so the hemmed edge can be tacked to the tack strip even with the bottom edge of the spring frame. The rumble seat back is basically the same but this cover is very tight and requires some effort to install. The compression method is also used when covering the back. The seat back material gets pulled around the wood frame and stapled on the back. A hosed windlace trim will get nailed along the sides and topto trim out the upholstery to the rumble lid. I altered the frame slightly from OEM but it won’t be seen. I reupholster a fair amount of early cars and one common issue is small furry friends taking up residence in seat springs. I haven’t done it yet on the cushion but on the seat back, I stapled metal screening to the wood frame to help deter the little critters.
  5. I am actually a Hampton Coach recommended installer but I only install kits or pre-made interiors. I don’t machine sew or make custom interiors as I just don’t have the time. I would assume your Moon needs to be custom made.
  6. Thank you all gentlemen, I appreciate your comments. As I mentioned I left the back edge of the seat back unfinished in the case I didn’t like an area or if the padding settles, I can readjust it. Well looking at my pictures of the seat straight on and I noticed the drivers side upper corner where it curves to the back is flatter and a little lower than the passenger side (if you look close you will see what I’m talking about) so the corner will get unstapled the some cotton stuffing added to pick it up then smoothed until it matches the the passenger side.
  7. chistech

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    That trans looks notoriously similar to the early 50’s GMC military truck trans I used to rebuild minus the 4 to 1 reduction unit at the tail end. I had always heard stories that the military trucks just took caddy/Olds 4 spd autos, added the reduction unit for low range, then installed them in the M135-211 series trucks. If they are indeed the same (worth researching), Memphis Equipment should have a ton of parts and probably a military rebuild manual. Those trans were a two band, two drum/clutch plate trans with a main shaft governor in the valve body that used the speed of the main shaft to centrifically force the weights out in the governor causing an upshift. We used to put a manual valve body in those trans which got rid of the governor and resulted in no more burnt clutch plates. Reverse was also the weak link as the cone was very small and would fail if high range reverse was used. The quality of the rubber lip seals back then was terrible and many times it was just a bad seal that had crumbled or pushed by its recess. A new seal kit from ME fixed them right up. We mechanically locked out the high range reverse slot in the shift tower with a through bolt. Man, I forgot about doing all these army trucks ( got them with low mileage and bad trannys from the surplus yard and rebuilt them to sell to the guys cutting wood here in New England) when I was young for extra money until I read this thread and saw that picture of the trans! Memories!!
  8. chistech

    1929-33 Chevy fuel pump - AC type B

    For the 29-31, yes.
  9. chistech

    1929-33 Chevy fuel pump - AC type B

    While those years model pump all fit, the pump you show in the picture is a high dome pump for a 32-33. 29-31 did not use a high dome even though it will fit.
  10. Finished the front seat cushion today. The leather that Hampton Coach used is really nice. What I commonly see with the Cabriolet seat cushions that have been reupholstered is that the front corners are often scalloped in because the corners are not padded enough on the sides. The problem is compounded by the top of the seat spring front on the sides is narrower than the base is, so the corners want to cave in some. I applied the burlap as I always do and stitch the corners so the burlap is tight. Hampton Coach supplies a jute type padding to go over the burlap then a white cotton type padding goes over that. The jute overhangs the sides and front so I trimmed the side jute to-end just above the seat frame wood. At the corner, I cut in with my shears straight in on the jute that’s overhanging the front even where the spring starts to curve back to each side. This allows me to bring both sides, after the jute is folded down the side, around the corners to the front and onto the piece of jute folded down along the straight edge of the seat front. Using strong button thread, I sew the the edge of the jute to the burlap right around the corner to the front to hold It down. This gives a pocket between the jute and the burlap in which I carefully stuff with some pieces of cotton wadding. When I’m happy with the firmness of the jute all around the corner, I sew the vertical edge of the jute from the side to the face of the jute folded over the front. This done on both sides to add firmness to the corners, a proper shape to the corners, and to prevent the sides of the seat cover from caving in or scalloping. I then added some pieces of 1/8” foam over the front edge between the front corners feathering the layers from the middle of the seat forward to prevent bulk buildup. Because the jute gets doubled up in the front corners by folding the sides around over the front jute, the foam is added to keep a straight line to the front edge. All this extra padding work yielded a nicely shaped lower cushion. I finished and trimmed all the seat fabric even with the rabbet then stapled on a paper board staple strip to make a nice neat installation. The seat and frame is mostly done other than tidying up the back edge and putting the wire-on all along the seat frame edge. I will give the seat back some time to relax and if needed, I can remove the staples along the back seat frame and reposition the material. This is the reason I haven’t trimmed it yet. The wire-on doesn’t go on until the seat frame is put in the car and the close out material from the front of the parcel tray is tacked to the top edge of the seat frame. The wire on then covers the tacks in the material along the frame back.
  11. Few more pics. Using a 2x8 on a blanket with a spare flywheel and pressure plate on top for weight, helps compress the springs so the bottom listing could be easily tacked in. The bottom picture shows the drivers side before the fifth and last time the seat cover was put on.you can clearly see some baggy ares and some looseness of the cover. Definitely not correct so off it came and additional padding was added.
  12. Covered the seat back tonight. Marked my centers and padded the springs. Layed the seat cover over the spring and started worked the sides up to hog ringthem to the springs. The spring sets are aftermarket and the top is a little flat rather than arched like it should be so some extra padding was required in the mid section, feathering it towards each side. While the roadster/Cabriolet seats were not originally overstuffed like the closed models were, it was evident that more padding was going to be required on the sides, so I added some additional material. The bottom linen listing was not finished or hemmed so I marked a line at 6” from the leather then sprayed some adhesive just inside the line and folded the linen at the line. This gave me a nice straight doubled edge to tack through. Worked from the middle out and tacked it about every 2 1/2” with #6 tacks. It’s much easier to tack than staple in the area due to the angles. Pulled the seat cover up, over the upper frame back board, centered the seam on the mark, and staples it down. Then pulled up each side seam even with the side of the seat,, and stapled the seam tail to the seat back. Working from the middle of each side, the cover was pulled back to get an even shape to the top line then stapled to the back of he seat frame. Once it was all temporary stapled it place, I checked it all over for proper shape and fullness in all areas. Needless to say, I wasn’t happy with it the first time, nor the second, third, or forth. I pulled the cover off four times and put it on five, with the fifth being the charm. When doing these seats, one must have a staple puller handy and expect the experience to be somewhat trial and error if you really want your seats to look correct. Once it all got stapled up, I installed upholstered board on the back of the seat frame finishing it all off. There is a wire-on edge to be nailed to the whole edge of the seat frame from one side, across the top, and down the other to the bottom. I haven’t nailed it on yet as there is a “bellows” of fabric that goes from the top front edge of the parcel tray to the top edge of the seat frame. The-seat frame gets moved all the way forward on the seat adjuster then the bellows material gets pulled tight from the tray to the seat back, then stapled to the seat back. The wire-on will then get tacked on to cover the cut edge and staples of the bellows material. I will be covering the seat cushion tomorrow and I expect the process to go much easier. The seat back in the seat frame is the hardest part of all the seats, that’s why I try to get it done first.
  13. Some more pics. So far, this Hampton Coach kit has been right on and fitting very well. Love the saddle brown and the seat leather is super nice.
  14. Worked on the front seat today. Covered the springs with burlap then put them aside. Padded the ends of the seat frame with foam then applied and stapled on the two vinyl end covers. Got the front valance glued and stapled on. When I put on my burlap I’m particular how it lays because it helps support the side padding so I hog ring, staple, and sew the corners so there’s no baggy areas. The vinyl end covers need a little care when installing to make sure the sewn seam lays flat along the edge of the frame and doesn’t get twisted. I also trim some of the material at the corners so it will lay flatter with less material to bulk up on the inside of the curves. The seam should lay to the inside on each side as it allows for a flatter edge to be had. Tomorrow I’ll start covering the springs. Went to the paint shop to tape up the last two wheels as Moses finished glazing them all up. I mounted them on the wood hubs I made up for the paint rack. Moe is going to try and get them primed up tomorrow. Coming along a little bit at a time.
  15. Location of those nails look about right to me Jerry. Check the spacing against the data plate. Great that you found the original plate also. Went back through some things on my Olds and Chevy a while back while cleaning up the garage and found some of those same exact treasures.
  16. Got a call today from my friend restoring a 32’ Olds rumble seat coupe. He told me his rear rumble seat interior panels didn’t fit correctly (his panels are duplicates of mine) and thought I should check my new panels that I just got from Lebaron Bonney/Hampton Coach. His interior was purchased a few years back and because LB/HC doesn’t offer a coupe interior for a 32’, he purchased one for a 31’. The general belief among Olds owners and restorers is that the 31-32’ RS coupes are the same and that the rumble area along with the golf bag door are also also the same as the convertible roadster. It is for this reason he recommended I check my panels for fit. Another consensus among the Olds guys is the 31-32 Chevy Cabriolets are the basically the same using the same interiors but with the addition of the golf bag door panels. Today I took my new interior panels to the body shop to check the fit in the body. Well my panels all appeared to fit very well with only one panel needed a tad of custom fitting when the time comes. Even my parcel tray liner fit perfectly which was a relief as my whole tray with supports were completely missing and I had to make it up by using old photos and measurements. So based on how my panels fit, we learned that the coupes are not the same as the convertible roadster and the 31’ Olds coupe is different than the 32’. The LB/HC olds convertible roadster interior kit is exactly the same (other than the golf bag door) as the 31-32 Chevy Cabriolet kit so that information appears 100% correct. This Olds roadster has been a practice in old car forensics.
  17. Rumble seat backrest springs attached to wood frame ready to cover.
  18. Springs set in main seat frame and checked for look.
  19. Front cushion spring set mounted to wood frame.
  20. Started doing some work on my seat frames today. My original springs were either bad or missing so I needed to order all four spring sets and decided or order at the same time all the wood frames. I could have made them but the cost worked out to being about the same. Well, while the cost was decent, the quality could have been much better and I know I would have made them much nicer than what I got. The rumble seat back rest frame was broken at the middle glue joint and most the mounting hardware, while close, was out of the proper positions. I ended up doing a lot of fixing to the frame to correct everything and the when I was done, I attached the seat back springs to the polyurethaned frame using screws at top and bottom with mechanics wire in the middle to get the right curve of the springs to the wood frame. The drivers seat cushion wood frame also had issues. My original frame was 20 1/8” and my new frame was 19 1/2” wide! The new frame also didn’t have the upholstery rabbet along the bottom edge. I ended up attaching a piece of ash along the back, leaving it thinner than the seat frame, matching the depth of the upholstery rabbet. I used my router and put the rabbet all the way around the bottom edge. I also altered just slightly from original and rabbeted in the two cushion frame stops then riveted them to the frame. Those two stops were originally mounted proud of the frame which caused them to wear heavily into the main seat frame wood. Again, the whole frame got a coat of polyurethane. Once the poly dried, I attached the cushion spring to the wood frame. Because these are new made springs, some have a aluminum flange frame so I simply drilled holes in the flange and screwed the spring to the wood frame rather than use loops of fabric around the spring then stapled or tacked to the wood as originally done. I checked alignment and all looks correct even though a little strange as the Cabriolet front seat cushion is shaped a little different than it appears it should be. The front corners of the spring seems to not come out to the shape of the wood frame as much as it should but this is how the original cushion also was. Will start upholstering the main seat frame and springs soon.
  21. chistech

    Third brush generator regulator

    I used the funprojects email, not Johns. I did find a ph and the voicemail stated than you’ve reached the Regans but I didn’t want to leave a message on what seemed like a home phone. At idle it basically shows no charge because there’s no real generator output at idle anyway. Pick up the rpms some and it’s starts charging. Mine is still hooked up with a standard cutout but most recommend using a diode which can be installed inside a cutout body.
  22. chistech

    Third brush generator regulator

    I’ve read where John will take any cutout and install his regulator into the cutout body unlike the Peterson regulator that is attached to the generator band and requires removal of the third brush. The Peterson regulator also has a design of working at two slightly different amperes ratings depending on if you are using a stock cutout or a diode one. I currently have a Peterson unit in my 31’ Chevy that I personally installed and it works perfectly. When I first start the car and start driving it, the amps are higher to charge the battery back up from what was used to initially start the car. Within a few minutes you’ll see the gauge drop down to just a trickle during day time driving. At night, it’s charging again just a little above but that’s with all lights on. Even with the great results of the Peterson regulator, I thought I’d try to have John put one of his units in my spare cutout for my 32’ Olds so I could leave my generator 100% stock. I have sent about 4-5 emails to the listed email address for fun projects with absolutely not one reply! Not a very good way to do business in my opinion as there should be someone monitoring the website and emails as the company still appears to be in business. Has anyone had luck getting in touch with Funprojects? If I don’t soon, I’ll be going with the Peterson unit as James gets back to me pretty quickly. On your generator putting out high voltage readings on your meter: did you have you generator hooked up to a load such as it would be normally in the car, from cutout to the car, amp guage, electrical system? If not, your generator will show crazy voltage, ask me how I know!
  23. chistech

    1931 Door Top Rail Repair

    How to get creative Mark. Did the same sort of thing to put the drainage slot on the top of my golf bag door except used a newly made small base Rigid router. Clamped a piece of ash on the left side to set a matching height to the metal door edge on the right and the ash also gave a straight edge for the router fence to ride along. Drainage slot cut with a half round bit. I’m quite impressed with the power of the Rigid unit and it’s controllibility. I use this router to get into tight places where I have to remove rotted wood to replace.
  24. I hate when I do that. Doesn't seem to matter what the material is. I can do it turning something on the lathe or routing something working with wood. I build RC scale fighter planes and I've done the same thing. Just back to the drawing board. Thankfully, like you, it's never been many dollars in the mistake but always valuable time.