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Everything posted by chistech

  1. Just an observation I've seen a few times with these cars on the tie rod: If someone used a floor jack with a decent size plate to lift the front end, many times that plate also contacts the tie rod. This causes the tie rod to bend. With the bend in the middle of the TR, its a very high possibility of how the rod got bent as many lift these cars using the center of the axle. I've also knownof cars that have fallen off jacks and blocks onto the TR and the same results have happened. The fixed end of your rod is a wishbone and in the picture it doesn't look level to the the control arm. I'm sure you checked for tension in the wishbone pin but a fixed end tie rod should not have a bend as no half rotations are possible, only full rotations. I believe there's a good possibility your rod got bent at one time as I described above. I could be wrong though and I'm just bringing the possibility to light.
  2. Purchased this car last year out of what appears to be a long time storage of a large collection of automobiles. With about an hours worth of time I was able to get it up and running and it ran well. I put it back in storage for about 6 months and recently started it's restoration. With a little research done off the sill data plate, I determined that the car was a early manufactured (first week of Feb) 6cyl, 6 wooden wheeled model, with just 249 produced. While it appeared mostly complete, there were some unique parts missing. What was missing was the decarbonizer, the Stromberg automatic choke, the proper air filter, the golf bag door lock, the rumble lid handle, and the rumble seats themselves. While the majority of the missing parts are year specific for the 32-33 model years, the rumble seats and the missing rumble latch are the same as 32' Chevrolet. Turns out the Olds DCR is almost identical in many ways to the 32' Chevrolet Cabriolet. While Olds called this car a "convertible roadster'' it is really a cabriolet with door windows. With the help of three fellow Olds enthusiasts, I've been able to procure all the missing parts but one. That one part was the golf bag door lock which I was just able to get the latch part, including the cam. The lock cylinder and lock tumbler were gone. I made up the missing cylinder with the help of a machinist friend and now have all the parts for my restoration. I will try and post all my progress as I go. First 4 pictures was how it looked when I first bought it. Second 4 show it when I stored it after purchase and quickly put up the roof and some fenders on for a look.
  3. I can only enter a few pictures because m6 iPad takes them in too large of a format. Here’s the rest.
  4. Put a coat of varnish on my front roof bow today. I purchased this hard to make part from one of the better wood parts suppliers but even this bow, as good as it was, wasn’t completely correct. The ends had been milled to deep where the chrome corner brackets mount which means if left as is, the corner brackets would not have been even with the metal piece and gasket that runs the length of the bow. One end was worse than the other so I cut some ash pieces up and glued them in. Some hand chisel workand sanding finished the job. It will get a few more coats of varnish to seal it up and it will be ready for assembly when the time comes.
  5. My good RC plane buddy came over Friday with his high coverage air brush and a mixture of gloss black epoxy enamel and harder. After wiping down my repaired steering wheel and horn button, he shot both with a few coats of the black. The paint used is the same paint we use on our nitromethane powered models and not only is it a hard wearing paint, but it’s resistant to most solvents making it the ideal paint for the steering wheel. I installed the wheel on my spare spider (the good one is at the paint shop), installed the chromed center cup, horn button contacts, and the horn button to test the assembly for full ground. All worked properly. One more step done. Wheel will now come off and be put away until final assembly.
  6. Got my chassis all set to test drive tonight. Bolted up a test body that I’ve been using on all the cars I work on. An old Chevy blazer seat finishes it of. Started the engine back up tonight, first time since the manifold was surfaced. It ran super nice and it’s ready to be test driven. The problem is starting tomorrow, New England is supposed to have heavy rain for the next few days but I’ll try and fit my little driveway gaunt in. Made up a new video of the car running but it’s too long to post here.
  7. There's so much work to redoing the wood wheels correctly. I cannot remove any spokes on my Old's as the wheels were formed under heat and hydraulic pressure. Even today's wheelwrights don't want to mess with them much. Mine are close to final paint now but still a few hours left cleaning them up and prepping them.
  8. Been doing some last minute work on the two door windows trying to get them to work a little easier. My frames are the aftermarket SS ones and they are a little thick so my neighbor sanded them down and polished them up. The drivers door works good but the passenger door was still tight. After a few hours of this and that (Cabriolet doors are a PITA), I finally figured out the issue. The wood in that door has a slight warp and it makes the center of the rubber channel bind the window. What’s crazy is the passenger door is all original and the drivers door is the one I scarfed in the lower end of the latch side and that door gives me no problem! I finally got it straightened out and the window is working great. Not loose, not tight. I got the manifold back from the machine shop and installed it back on the motor. It was warped pretty bad and he had to take off almost 3/32” to get it true. No wonder the exhaust leaked when I started it up. Can’t figure how the hell I missed that one! Worked on the mid bow iron by installing a new blind nut where one was rusted out (they’re welded on) and the sand blasted all the nooks to get it ready to prime. I also got in a glass scratch removal kit I bought off eBay to try and remove all the scratches from my headlight lenses. 32’ Olds use a special lens and they are hard to find. When you do find nice ones, the price is usually in the hundreds. Both my lenses are scratched pretty badly but I have to say the kit works really well. Problem is the kit only has enough discs for about 1 1/2 lenses so I need to order more. It will end up costing about $50 to do both. Not bad and very decent results. It’s hard to see how bad it was scratched in the picture (I’m holding it up to the light coming in my door) but the result is easy to see in the other two pictures. Took about two hours to do one lens letting my batteries for my drill charge.
  9. chistech

    Kissel 1918 Sedanette

    Wow, it’s virtually the same animal. Crazy that there’s another being done.
  10. chistech

    Kissel 1918 Sedanette

    Went to my machine shop today to drop off some parts for my 31’ Chevy engine and the owner showed me a beautiful Kissel engine they have just finished. They’re waiting on a grommet for something but I can’t remember exactly what. Not your motor,is it?
  11. Unfortunately like many of us, LeBaron Bonney is having a hard time getting what they need and even when it’s available, delivery times are always way out. It seems service times are even worse than material delivery times too. Last time I was at LB/HC picking up a customers interior, Scott the owner was telling me the problems they’re having getting some materials. People out there who are restoring their cars to original should order their interiors now as availability is changing daily on original type materials. As we all know, every time we turn around another manufacturer of stuff for our cars is either closing or just gone and the bigger companies that supply us can’t get the supplies themselves. Things as simple as slotted screws are becoming a thing of the past with the new Phillips/slotted hybrid heads replacing everything out there. Try to buy a garnish screw and all they want to sell you is a Phillips head! Gary, I feel your pain my friend. I’m waiting on the machine shop to finish up a block for my 31’ Chevy that he said he’d have done 6 weeks ago so I can be driving it for this summer and I’m still waiting to get my Olds wheels painted. I guess the bright side is the Olds body will be going in for paint very soon but who knows how long it will sit there in between other insurance jobs. The waiting is the worst! Give LB a call and ask for Cam Nolan. See if there’s any way she can speed it up for you. I’ll call her and tell her you’re a friend of mine and see if that helps. PM me your last name and address so I have it when I talk with her.
  12. chistech

    1932 Olds Throttle Springs

    I’ve now made up some starter pedal linkage springs, $15ea. Made from matching diameter music wire. These are not reproduced anywhere and are used on many cars of the period.
  13. I have newly made throttle linkage springs which are virtually exact copies of the original and were made by duplicating my intact original. Most original springs have long been broken and replaced with common extension springs. Put your throttle linkage back to original condition with these approximately .075 music wire. No more removing your original spring after showing in fear of it breaking. $10 ea plus shipping. Note: spring on bottom right of first picture is my original and not for sale. Spring on bottom left is a copy made with a remainder of wire I had and is just a spare, not for sale. All on the top row are for sale. second picture shows a newly made spring installed on my linkage
  14. Thank you for those kind words John. Ted
  15. Drilled the holes to mount the running board moldings. I’m lucky as many 32’ Olds out there today are missing the board moldings. Had the rechromed and they came out nice. Test fit the moldings to the boards and they look really good. Used my small trim router and a half round bit to make the drain groove on the top of the golf bag door.
  16. Got a call today that I’ve been hoping to get and waiting a while for. My buddy from the paint shop called to tell me to get the Olds ready as he wants me to bring it down in a few days. Been working to finish up a last few things on the body including getting all remaining sheet metal stripped and primed, repairing the two rumble seat mounting holes in the rumble lid, and putting the drain groove in the top wood rail of the golf bag door. Also drilled the mounting holes for the heater and the two holes for the heater core tubes. Loaded all the hood panels, the pair of running boards, and the lower radiator apron inside the car for the trip.
  17. My plater didn’t get the chrome into the bell of the horns good enough so I sent them back. They did a great job the second time but didn’t tape off the threads of the trumpets and chromed the threads and the jamb nuts all together. They won’t even think about screwing into the horn motors so back to the plater a third time! What the hell were they thinking 🤔.
  18. Thank you John. Sometimes it feels like I’m making headway, other times it feels like I’ll never get done. Worked on the other running board tonight. Lots of work getting it flat enough to send to paint. My hands and arms are killing me from all the filing and blocking to find the high spots. Not too much more metal work to go and it will be completely finished on my end of the body work.
  19. Even just primer makes you realize you’re getting closer and parts look so much better.
  20. Put some time in on the bigger items today. I completely tin knocked one of the running boards on the very ends where the mats don’t cover and the welded seam. Lots of hammer and dolly work along with a lot of hand filing. The beaded edge of the outside of the board had saw teeth like serrations from being formed so all those had to be filed out. Cleaned the whole board up with wire wheel and a DA sander then primed it. It’s ready to go to the paint shop. Also did the same to the front radiator apron. The gas tank apron had the two sheet metal tabs that go over the chassis ends and the bumper bolts go through broken off. My spare apron while in bad condition, has both tabs. Out came the welder and I welded on new tabs the using a large step bit, bored the hole. Tin knocked a few dents out of the apron and primed up the new tabs. Another piece ready to go to paint. Removed the window frames out of the doors because they need more sanding and are too thick. My frames are the aftermarket SS one piece frames that are really nice but just a tad too thick. We sanded them some already and polished them back up but they need more. While I was working on the doors I fitted the two garnishes in place.
  21. chistech

    Oldsmobile 1931

    That wiper motor you have appears to be the wrong one. The actuator rod needs to be in place before the windshield glass is installed. There should be two holes in the outside of the metal header where the wiper motor bracket is. One smaller hole for the control wire in the bottom edge of the metal and the other for the vacuum tube in the face of the panel. You also need to check that there is vacuum tubing going up to the back of the windshield frame. You will need to remove the windshield regulator board to look at everything I just described. The control rod for the wiper also goes in a slot in the front roof trim board that the headliner is attached to. The pictures show a 31’ Chevy which judging by your parts, appears to be very similar as Gunsmoke mentioned. If you zoom in close and look carefully, you can see the control rod and where it attaches to the wiper motor.
  22. chistech

    Indian Head Gasket Cement

    Always use Indian Head shellac as it’s my favorite gasket adhesive. I just cut off the dauber and use a cheap Harbor freight flux brush to apply it.
  23. One thing I’ve come to realize is coil spring metallurgy wasn’t that good 80+ years ago. I’ve had many of the original springs on this car broken when I got it or had them break when I started flexing them. Of course with the number of 32’ Olds produced so low, aftermarket parts or NOS parts are virtually nonexistent or in many cases, just never produced. In an earlier post, I made up some new accelerator rod springs as the originals always break. Today, I tackled my broken starter pedal spring. When I got my car it was broken and although the spare chassis I picked up had one, it too quickly broke when I flexed the starter pedal. I was a little leary of being able to bend one up as it’s made out of .156 (5/32) music wire and that stuff is not easy to bend, never mind tight coils with hooked ends. I luckily was able to use the same jig I made up for the other springs by just modifying it with a couple of pins to form over. The springs I made up came out great, installed one on the linkage, and it functioned the pedal perfectly with no failure as of 25 or so full motion cycles. The starter pedal spring is absolutely necessary as the starter uses no bendix spring and instead simply engages the bendix manually with the pedal through the linkage. The spring returns the pedal to the up position and disengages the bendix. Without the spring the weight of the pedal would simply keep the bendix engaged after the motor starts. Of course, I made up extras just in case!
  24. Been doing a fair amount of work on the car now. Went to the paint shop and helped prep some parts. Moses painted them and I picked them up yesterday. Spent about three hours at the paint shop last night and prepped up two wheels by cleaning up any varnish that was on the metal, sanding the etch primer with 600 to knock off any dust bunnies, then went over again with a red pad. Taped off the spokes so I wouldn’t do any damage to the varnish finish. Just 4 more to go then they’ll be just about ready for paint. When I got home I assembled the tail lights up with the standoff’s, license plate bracket, emblem badge, and the nice rechromed rims. My wife thought it was crazy how happy I was about the super nice paint on taillights! Only guys like us understand those things! LOL 😆 installed the radiator shutters in the shell and put my dash panel up in the spare bedroom for safe keeping. That didn’t go over that good either so I explained when I do the seats for the interior those also will be going in the bedroom. Again, she wasn’t real happy but in reality she’ll be fine as I’ve done it before and she knows just how important it is to keep these parts safe.