theKiwi

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About theKiwi

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/01/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
     Caledonia, Michigan, USA
  • Interests:
    Interested in Olde Cars and Olde People (Genealogy)
  1. The thing that is more likely to have survived with some evidence of its original colour is the transmission cover plate. André's @Franklin25 car clearly has gray paint on the transmission cover still. Mine I could find no trace of gray paint in amongst the black and rust as I sanded and sand/bead blasted it. The paint remaining on it that could well have been original was definitely black. There was also a lot of black paint on it that was not original. But no gray. Roger
  2. @Bhigdog Bob!!!! Thank You So Very Much!!!!!! Totally Awesome!!!!! I'll post a picture when I have the pipe made and fitted to the car.
  3. My car is a Sedan, so is covered by drawing 33321, and as listed there should have a rubber mat. My upholstery is gray, but it has been redone some time in the last decade. I haven't seen any remnants of what would have been the original to know what colour it would have been. Drawing 34366 is not relevant to my car as far as I can tell - my car is not a Victoria Sedan. Franklin25's car has a gray mat and gray transmission cover. His mat has the small ovals. Roger (without the d!)
  4. I see that the Series 12 book includes a "Mechanics Instructions" section. Is this like the Repairs and Adjustments section of the Series 11 book, or more detailed in terms of how to do xxxxx Is there a Series 11 "workshop manual" that might describe such things are removing the engine, or dismantling the gearbox or other such mechanical operations? Thanks! Roger
  5. So that means that whoever brought the car and whoever is the current owner (they may or may not be the same person) have not been/are not members of the Franklin Club. Roger
  6. I'm going to assume it's a serial number thing perhaps? IE up to a particular number they were gray, after that number they were black? My car is #162935. I have no traces of the mat remaining, but from taking the center transmission cover out and sanding and sandblasting it I can find no trace of gray paint - just black. André - is your gray mat in car number 160726? Paul - what are the number(s) of the car(s) you've seen black mats and covers in? Roger
  7. According to the Franklin Register the last known owner was a K Carson in New York state. They are not a member of the Franklin Club now. Roger
  8. Hahahahaha :-)
  9. Yep - don't disagree with that!! Solder nipple seems to find the most results for it on Google. I think of ferrules as being thin, and providing the clamping force themselves - e.g. the metal band around a paint brush or the metal band at the end of a wooden handle on tools like chisels or the "olive" in a compression fitting. Roger
  10. They are way smaller than the fittings on a gas regulator, and a different shape. McMaster Carr don't have anything anywhere near resembling them. Well - would you look at that - this is for 5/16" tubing (I need ¼ - I have the original 5/16 ones that are on a different line). But hey - they exist... https://www.steinertractor.com/JDS1011-fuel--oil-line-gland--nut So now we learn that they are called a "gland nut" apparently - Ebay has a number of them for sale in the UK http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=gland+nut&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xgland+nut+olive.TRS0&_nkw=gland+nut+olive&_sacat=0 but these all have BSP (British Standard Pipe) threads on the nut, so won't fit my fittings. Roger
  11. @Bhigdog Bob - thanks so much for a generous offer. If you're up to making them I'm certainly up to paying for postage (and buying you a beer if that helps...) The attached image is based on the Franklin engineering drawing. Assuming ¼" for the pipe diameter I've interpolated the other dimensions, also mindful of the nut that has to go over this to screw on to the fitting. I do have the original Franklin fitting for one end of this. It has a tapered seat that would pretty closely match the seat angle shown in this drawing. The fitting I have for the other end is a regular US compression fitting and the new pipe fitting for this should seat into it with no problems. Hopefully it's not too difficult to make - the wall thickness isn't great along the length D: (C - F)/2 = .030" Let me know if you think this is too finicky - I was going to try and source some from England where they seem to be still available - although the nuts they sell won't fit the US threads on the fitting, but the "olive" should fit the ¼ pipe. Thanks!!!! Roger
  12. 1 - yes ¼ OD pipe 2 - the threads on a ¼" compression fitting nut today are the required 7/16-24, so I already have the needed nuts - just need the fitting. Yes - I could make them if I had a lathe - I'm not sure my wife would consider these two tiny brass things sufficient reason to buy one though LOL Roger
  13. So here's where I've ended up. Have managed to track down the right sized eyelets - from a knife manufacturing supplies website of all places, and the right sized brass ring terminals from DigiKey, and a hammer powered riveting tool, and am set to replicate these connectors finally... The ring terminals come as a strip - luckily the sold them one at a time as I didn't think I needed a whole roll of 1,000!!! The eyelets come from their supplier in multiples of 1,000, but luckily USAKnifemaker.com buys them 1,000 at a time and then repackages them down to 25 in a package - again I didn't think I needed 1,000! What I was trying to replicate on the left, with what I've come up with on the right. Now for the barn to warm up above 15° F so I can get out there and see if it really works as I see it in my mind's eye. Roger
  14. Does anyone know what these type of fittings are officially called, and where one might buy some in the US? The first image is the Franklin drawing of the vacuum line from intake manifold to vacuum tank The second image is the type of fitting that it is. When I search Google for "solder nipple" or "brass solder nipple" it only seems to be able to turn up that they are still available in the UK, but then the nuts seem to have British Pipe Threads on them, not US threads. I need 2 that go on ¼" copper pipe and have 7/16-24 threads on the nut. Also in an ideal world these would go on nickel plated ¼" copper pipe, but I can live with regular copper pipe and maybe get that plated at some stage when I'm feeling really genuine. Thanks! Roger
  15. I found this one and have been pondering on it http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_382&products_id=4615 Someone else said they bought a 6" diameter muffler from Advance Auto Parts - it should be 6" diameter and about 24" long to be kind of the right size physically. I'm also thinking of having Waldron Exhaust make me a new front and rear pipe too http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=61_38&products_id=289 Roger