Seafoam65

I've had two different sets of 225-75-15 tires on my car with no rubbing

Every GTO ever made including the 2004-2006 models are rear wheel drive

You don't have to remove the tank.....the metal tubes on the sending unit go all the way to the front of the tank and the hoses can be removed and replaced with the tank in the car. Be sure to ask for FUEL INJECTION fuel hose at your parts store as it is more alcohol resistant It sells for about 9.00 a foot versus regular fuel hose which is a lot cheaper. The cheap hose has a short life when used with alcohol fuel and is a fire hazard.

The tranny rebuilder I've used for 40 years has told me that getting a switch pitch torque convertor is problematic , as is the drum and the pump which are different. Those three parts, along with the solenoid that is installed on the pump are the differences between an ST400 and a Turbo 400. I looked online and saw no listings for those crucial parts that are unique to the ST 400. I found old posts from twenty years ago with rebuilt switch pitch convertors for sale but nothing more recent than that.

Take the part to a muffler shop and let them get them out with their torch.

I used the cast iron engine paint on my wheels.....most brands of those paints have a satin finish, I know mine did.

The correct color for 64 wheels is argent silver, which is the same paint used on the grills on GM cars all through the sixties, and on their painted rally wheels like on the Pontiac rally wheels. The 65 wheels are painted a medium charcoal color. Since the picture on this thread of my wheel was taken I have repainted the centers of my wheels the correct charcoal color. My wheels still have their excellent original chrome finish, as the car hasn't been wet since 1967. Here is a more recent pic with the charcoal on the wheels......

Actually the most likely problem is your battery is getting weak.......the required cranking amps to turn the engine over goes up with engine temperature. My GTO always does this when the battery gets older and starts to get weak. When that happens I replace the battery and it always fixes the problem. This has been happening for fifty years on my GTO.

Locate a dash in the United States and have Just Dashes redo the dash pad, then have Just Dashes ship it to you in Germany. Just Dashes will remove all the vinyl on the dash pad along with all the old foam. Then they will glue new foam on the dash steel core and recover the pad with all new vinyl using a heat shrink process just like the factory. Since that pad is so large, I'm going to guess that the cost to do that will be somewhere around 1500.00. Your car is beautiful, and definitely worth doing the dash pad right. The only alternative would be somebody that can do that job in Germany, but I haven't heard of anyone there that does that kind of work. It takes specialized skills and equipment.

Before you condemn the fuel sender, go in the trunk and unplug the wire that goes to the gas tank sender and verify the gas gauge goes to full with the key on. If it does the sender is bad or the wire going to it above the tank is pinched to ground.

I'm retired from 47 years in the car repair business so I'll give you my opinion on your problems. The trac light is probably on due to a bad computer.....I would recommend just deactivating the light at the instrument cluster and don't worry about fixing it. On the cruise control , check under the hood to see if the cable that goes from the cruise control transducer to the throttle arm is broken or disconnected. If that is OK you need a new cruise transducer. There is a very high probability that all of the problems with the radio is the radio itself. The mid nineties GM radios were a complete joke....they used to go out once a year when the cars were brand new. GM has very well made wiring harnesses.....when you have an electrical problem in the dash it is almost always a component, not the wiring. I assume that you meant compressor, not condenser on the A/C. On a 95 GM car, unless the car is low on freon due to a leak, normally the compressor is bad, which entails flushing the system to remove trash, replacing the orifice valve and installing a new compressor. The compressors on a 90's GM car usually go out at least every 80,000 miles, often much more frequently than that....they are a very bad design. On the cig lighter you have a blown fuse. Hopefully replacing that fuse might help your other electrical problems as well, but that isn't too likely. Normally when the idle surges up and down you have a huge vacuum leak under the hood somewhere around the intake manifold. While you are checking for vacuum leaks, remove the the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and make sure it doesn't have a blown diaphragm....At that age the regulator should be bad by now. This can cause bad gas mileage, a funky idle and sometimes results in the intake manifold exploding like a bomb went off inside it. If gasoline is coming out of the hose nipple on the regulator when the vacuum line is removed , the regulator diaphragm is busted. Your car is very clean and is certainly worth fixing. A 90's GM car makes a fine hobby car but I wouldn't want one at this point as a daily driver..... It will eat you up with repairs if you stack a lot of miles on it. The reason values are low on these cars is it is common knowledge that they tend to break a lot. If the car doesn't have sentimental value and you want an inexpensive daily driver, sell it and buy a 2004-2011 Lincoln Town Car. They are wonderful cars and the drivetrain and rear end will go 500,000 miles easily if you use Mobil 1 motor oil and on the transmission, leave it alone and don't change the fluid and it will go 500,000 miles as well. I have seen these cars go 700,000 on the original engine and trans. Only caveat is you have to torque the spark plugs to 28 foot lbs instead of 10 foot lbs like the factory did or they will vibrate loose and then blow out, taking the threads with them. Other than that, they will go 100's of thousands of miles . and will never break. The suspensions are bullet proof other than the factory front ball joints go out at 100k because they don't have grease fittings.

My Mom's brother had a 65 Wildcat in yellow with the black vinyl top.....a very cool car.

A new video just dropped on You Tube which lists the ten most beautiful car interiors of all time. No.1 on their list was the 65 Riviera, and it was also stated that the exterior of the car was arguably GM's best of all time. Amazingly, it has taken 60 years for journalists to figure this out, something I knew as a 12 year old in 1965. I remember back in the 80's when my Dad would comment that he couldn't figure out why 65 Rivieras like his weren't collectible when they were so beautiful.......and I told him that everybody would figure it out eventually and the prices would go way up at some point, but it is amazing that it took so long.

My recollection is that they are always on the front of the carb, and I believe the driver's side front is the normal location due to the fuel inlet being in the way on the passenger side.

Looking forward to it......I've never spent any time in Kentucky, just passed through it a few times on the way to the East Coast.

Yes Ed, the gasket is the same for 64 as the 65.

Amazing condition for the age and mileage, and those 3.8 engines will easily go 300,000 miles on Mobil 1 oil.

I agree with Ed.....put on the triple whitewalls......I'm about to install a set on my car...... they just look RIGHT!

Very very nice! Congrats!

Thanks Bill......I thought that it would slide off and on but wasn't sure that was possible...... I will give that a try, thanks.

OK guys, I would like advice on removing and installing the 12 inch long piece of stainless on the right lower quarter panel between the wheel well and the door. My original has a small ding in it and I bought a perfect used one but not sure of best way to remove the old one and install the new one......looking forward to your advice.

Did you have to have the headliner sewn up or did they sell it to you ready to install?

Wow that's good news.........I hadn't seen the material for sale anywhere. Do you know if it is NOS material that is limited in quantity or if they tooled up to make new material? If they don't have much of it left perhaps I should buy some of it as a precaution

My car has the dark green deluxe interior and these were built with a light mint green headliner and sun visors. The original headliner and visors are still perfect and I sure hope they stay that way, because NOBODY offers that color headliner for the car.

I bought a vinyl label online ten years ago......it was readily available at that time.