31 Caddy

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31 Caddy last won the day on June 18 2016

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About 31 Caddy

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  • Birthday 02/19/1956


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    Retired Airline Captain. Flew B727,B747, B757, B767, DC8, A300 and numerous business jets. Also a licensed aircraft mechanic.

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  1. Sure thing. I don't know the difference between an 18B & an 18 C. The picture above however, does not go with the text. It says see figure 5, which I don't have. I was hoping the text might help you. I do know that on my Model 19B's the difference between a great sounding horn, and nothing at all was in the adjustment they mention above as being quite sensitive. Boy, was it ever! Good luck!
  2. You probably already checked this, but the cylinders on some early engines are chamfered such that you can install the piston from the bottom with the rings already installed on it, without the use of a ring compressor. My current caddy is that way, and I removed and reinstalled pistons from the bottom on a previous one this way with the crankshaft still installed. The manual mentions it too.
  3. Oh, but the AACA Museum ( which has nothing to do with the AACA, I should point out) would never do such a thing.
  4. How is the regulator fitting secured in the plastic cap?
  5. Great work! Thanks for sharing this with us. Let us know when you start it up for the first time. Fire in the hole!
  6. We all know "a picture's worth a thousand words", but that really hit home with this ad. When I first read the description of the cars, the image in my mind was FAR worse than what the subsequent pictures indicated. Look like pretty good cars, fairly priced. Blasphemy perhaps, but the complete running 392 with matching trans is probably worth the price of the Imperial.
  7. Ugghh, the old oil pump drives the distributor, instead of the distributor driving the oil pump trick, lol. I agree, and thanks for educating me on the internals of the Dodge 6. Sorry for wasting your time, and good luck.
  8. Maybe I made it sound difficult. You can do the whole job in less than 10 minutes. Nine minutes of that is determining what you want to use for the drive tool. You remove the distributor. You look at the bottom end of the distributor shaft and see what kind of engagement it has with the oil pump. It's probably just a slot -maybe a hex. You chuck up an appropriate drive tool ( a big screwdriver with the handle cut off, an old distributor shaft, a long extension with the tip ground appropriately, WHATEVER) in a hand held drill, and spin the oil pump in the direction of normal distributor rotation. Voila ! The entire engine is lubed in a matter of a minute, and oil pressure will be read on the gauge. If you are concerned about getting the distributor back the same, just mark the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor body with a sharpie, and likewise the distributor body in relation to the block prior to removing it. You are not going to turn the engine over, you are just turning the oil pump. Attached are pics of some priming tools. One is a store bought Chevrolet tool and the other is made from an old distributor shaft. One more thing... 9 times out of 10, this will spin the pump plenty fast enough to "pick up the prime" even if the engine builder neglected to fill the pump with STP or similar when assembling the engine - especially with a new pump. On the outside chance that it doesn't, you are fortunate that your engine has an externally mounted pump that you can easily remove, fill with STP and then proceed.
  9. I don't know the specific design of your engine. What I always do is prelube the engine until I read oil pressure PRIOR to cranking it at all. If the oil pump in your engine is driven by the distributor shaft, you can yank the distributor out and turn the oil pump ( in the direction of normal distributor rotation) by making a tool out of either a spare distributor or distributor shaft ( if the distributor shaft mates directly with the oil pump) with the camshaft gear removed from it, or from a spare intermediate shaft if an intermediate shaft is used between the distributor and the oil pump on your engine. You can turn this homemade tool (and thus the oil pump only) with a drill motor. There are priming tools on the market for most modern V8's that are used this way, and I have made several through the years to prelube antique engines. There is an intermediate oil pump shaft with the gear removed in my tool box now that I used on my 31 Cadillac V8. There are also pressure lube systems on the market that can be connected via lines to an engine to pump oil through the oil system. Hopefully, assembly lube was used to coat your main and camshaft bearings, etc. I don't ever crank them over until I show oil pressure via the method described above. Looks like a nice restoration in progress!
  10. for sale

    No ma'am, I would not make that assumption either. I don't see much else that is '31 Cadillac, although there may be some items. The skirted front fenders and running boards are similar to a '33 Cadillac, or a Packard within + or minus a few years of that. The grille shell and radiator is something altogether different. It is an interesting car, but is a collection of parts from various makes/years, along with some home made parts. This may be the norm for similar speedsters - I have no idea, and haven't a clue on how to value such a car. Thanks for sharing it on this forum, and best of luck with the sale.
  11. for sale

    The headlights, crossbar, emblem tie bar , and vertical headlight stanchions are 1931 Cadillac, as are the fender lights. Probably the horns too, they look like K-22's. Seems to be home made chrome blocks between the fenders and the Cadillac headlight bar.
  12. WOW!! Just WOW! To die for ( but hopefully not in, LOL) Fantastic find, and a beautiful restoration in progress!
  13. Paul, thank you for the kind words. See you down the road. Regards, Rick.
  14. Thanks to Robert, Mark, Philip and everyone else who posted photos here and on facebook. I enjoyed them very much, as did my wife who did not attend the show.