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About hidden_hunter

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  • Birthday 08/24/1988

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  • Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
  1. 1914 Premier Z2 Touring Remy Generator

    It may just need adjustment if the brushes are worn
  2. 1914 Premier Z2 Touring Remy Generator

    Can you see the brushes at all?
  3. Stuck worm gear

    We think that might have happened when the top cover disintegrated and bits of metal went flying through the motor However, we had success today - the old man tapped it back and forth for a while and eventually it freed up. Now both the lock and tensioner are moving easily and both gears are turning. Ive got the top cover back on and 12 of the valves so back on track
  4. The right car for Peking to Paris 2019 Rally?

    I do kinda wonder how suitable my 22 cad 5 passenger coupe would go, has two easily mounted spares, places for plenty of tools and I think you could add a much bigger fuel tank without too much trouble
  5. Stuck worm gear

    I've scanned copies of the shop manual as well, I can't see anything that would possibly be stopping it Scan_20180117 (3).pdf Scan_20180117 (4).pdf Scan_20180117 (2).pdf Scan_20180117.pdf
  6. Heirloom Tools

    We have a lot of my grandfathers old tools, and they're all high quality and made in Australia - his socket and ratchet set are much better than anything I've been able to buy
  7. Stuck worm gear

    Any ideas? I’ve tried everything I can think of and have to be able to move the gear to reassemble the motor
  8. Stuck worm gear

    Video of it turning (don’t mind the wd40) 6D449A14-4B03-49F5-AAD9-808C0CFF95BA.MOV
  9. Stuck worm gear

    Hi all, I thought I was getting close to getting my 1922 Cadillac but alas no. I had most of it back together but when I went to put on the chains I couldn’t get more than half a turn out of the chain adjuster before it goes tight when the book tells me that I should turn it clockwise 6 times. So I’ve had to take most of it apart again It moves freely about 1/2 a turn on the adjuster shaft and the locking screw is out I can see the bottom worm gear moving but the top gear refuses to move. This should rotate to allow you to tension or back off the chains The camshaft moves freely itself and slides backwards and forward about 1/2” I can’t see any physical obstructions or any reason why the gear shouldn’t rotate I’ve applied a liberal amount of WD40 with no luck, neither of the gears will move (the book says loosen the back one first but neither are moving despite the worm gear)
  10. Thanks for confirming, was still much easier sticking them out the top and using a modern compressor but that might have been because I was doing it lying under the car
  11. Water pump identification

    The bottom one looks a lot more homemade than the top one (particularly the welding) - perhaps it has been adapted from something else? Don't always trust the parts book, we had the same thing with the 1926 where we found at least 3 variations of the pump casing
  12. My Reatta will not be in the record books

    My state has some of the strictest enforcement of speed limits in the world where you can get booked for 2 miles over the speed limit. Having said that with driving conditions similar to a lot of Texas (and only slightly smaller population), Australia had less than a third of the fatalities. We also have a statutory no-fault insurance provider that's paid for as part of your registration, they spend a lot of money pushing safety (through advertising and road projects) - The theory behind it is that if they do that it will in turn reduce premiums (we're already one of the cheapest places in Australia so it must work ok) as their payouts tend to be very expensive as they include things like income support
  13. I had the crank in at the start but there isn't stopping you putting it in later (but it may be more awkward to fit if you've got rods hanging down) The taper on the Cadillac bore is enough to compress the rings itself with out using a compressor, however it's a pain and a lot slower to do (I did two pistons like that before I realised that the set of rings I'd bought were junk and had to be replaced). Using the method I described above you can probably have them all in a day (the cad also needs sooo many split pins...)
  14. I don't know about you guys but when buying stuff I generally look for better than "ok"
  15. My Cadillac (it has fork and blade rods) had the same challenge, what I did was: Measure end gap for the rings Insert rods from the bottom of the engine (I suspect it was designed to be done this way as there is a taper on the bore to compress the rings) Make sure the crank is clear and that you're not going to hit it when you reinsert the rod Push piston through the top of the bore so it's resting on the top (you can leave the piston in the bore but it's more awkward to work) Put rings on Use a cylinder style ring compressor (e.g .the aluminum ones basically a hose clamp) and put it half way down the piston Put piston back in bore Gently push on the top of the piston to easy it down into the bore (careful not to cut the webbing on your hand doing this) Once all the rings are in bore you should be able to pull it from underneath That's what I did on my 22, and it was a slow process but worked well enough.