wilmacmike

Thank you for the reply and the information. I will be trying to use the numbers I have found on my frame when I do the paperwork, which will be quite some time from now.

Thank you both for the information. I located the 7-digit number just behind the passenger side shock tower and on the frame at the rear crossmember on the passenger side also.

I have a Henry J chassis which I have no idea what year it is. I know it would be between 1951 and 1954. I do not have a body at all, which means I have no Vin number, and no data Tag. I am building a 1956-57 LaDawri Conquest (fiberglass body). My car came mounted on the Henry J chassis. After putting the question out a while ago about where on the frame might I find any kind of number to use for my lost title/paperwork, I was told it would be under the passenger side shock tower. After some wire brushing, I finally found a seven-digit number on top of the frame just behind the shock tower. I would think this number is a serial number rather than a Vin# as there is no "K" before the numbers. Is this correct? I have to think that any numbers on the frame are better than no numbers. I went through the same steps when I registered my 1948 Ford F1 back in 1983. I only had the numbers that were stamped in the frame. So, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Thank you for any insight given to me.

Can anyone tell me or have a picture to show where the vin number would be on a Henry J chassis? I do not have the body. I have been told the number is under the passenger side shock tower. I haven't found it. I am wondering if this is true or not. Thank you.

Jerry, Have you checked out the MG Experience forum? Lots of very knowledgable people there. www.mgexp.com Click on the MGB side and start asking questions. You will get all of the answers to any questions you ask. Mike

Greg, thanks for the picture. It looks like it is very different from the one that goes into my glovebox door.

GregLaR, Do you have a picture of the one you purchased from E-Bay? I wonder if it might work on my 1937 DeSoto S3 coupe glove box door? Mike

Can you post more pictures of the radio control head unit? Front view, top and side views? Thanks

For Sale: 1996 Dodge Dakota V-6 Magnum SLT Pick Up/Red $1800.00 Have Title, but with slight issue. Call and discuss. Great Vehicle as a donor for the motor/trans, and rear end swap into vintage Mopar. 225,000 Miles Mostly Highway Heads Redone awhile back. 3.9 V-6 175 HP @ 4800 RPM 225 Lbs. Torque @ 3200 RPM 4 Speed Automatic Runs Great/Strong All Outside Trim Intack Perfect Rear Bumper Front Bumper has one small dent Top Coat/ clear Coat peeling Front Windshield cracked All Other Glass in Great Shape Power Windows Work Interior in good shape Dash Pad in Place No Cracks in Dash Call or PM if interested. Will text / e-mail pictures upon request. 775-220-4901 Thanks for looking, Mike General Phone 775-220-4901 Email wilmacmike@gmail.com Location Carson City NV There are no public questions for this advert.

Hello Greg, Check out Diamond Back tires. There is a lot of good info on their web-site. If you want to keep the look to the era of your car, look at their new Auburn Radial. It looks like an old piecrust side wall bias ply tire. Not sure when it will be availible. I know it will be expensive. Mike

Do you have any more pictures of it? Like the backside? How much? Thanks, Mike

Thanks guys, I will try it with two people. The backing plate layout looks to be the same. I'll measure the backing plates and the axle tapers before I use any of the parts. Again, thanks for the help... Keep on MoParing,,, Mike

Hello there everyone, Here is what I have going on at the moment. My rear end is a 4.10 ratio. My S3 has a manual overdrive with a 3 speed. I have been looking for rear drums (10") and hubs. My rear end has one bad hub, which is worn down where it goes into the grease seal. The other drum had sheared off at the outer diameter of the drum. Some one welded it back together a long time ago. Needless to say it is way out of round and does not run true. This hub is also bent up. So I found and bought another rear end. The fellow I purchased it from said it was a 1943. It is indentical to the one in my car with a couple exceptions. For one, it has 11" brakes, which I will swap over to my rear end. It has the same size stepped wheel cylinders. Now here is the real difference which I am confused about. When I looked at it with the seller, he did not know the ratio. The drums were frozen solid, so I could not turn it to figure out the ratio. I was hoping it was a 3.90, which would most likely go well with my overdrive. Once I got it home and taken the drums off (what a job that was), I was able to turn the pinion and count the turns. It is somewhere around 2.25 turns of the pinion shaft to 1 turn of the axle. Heres my questions: What would this rear end ratio be used for/with? When was this ratio used? On the big flat spot on the housing underneath the unit is the number "43". I think this is where the PO thought it was a 1943 unit. My rear end has the same exact number "43" in the same area. Does any one know what this number represents? The pictures I have here are of the different numbers and letters on the rear end that I purchased. They are as follows: 43 and 15. "K", "F" or a "P", and then the series of numbers. I guess I will swap out the backing plates and drums, rather than swapping out the whole rear end. Having extra parts is always good. Thank you all for any help you can provide. Keep on MoParing.... Mike

I was going to buy several outer seals off of E-Bay, and have a couple extras. However I was concerned about the leather being dried out. I found a seal on the McMatster Carr web-site #5154T45 which I think will work. It is of the proper dimensions. I tried finding the Timken seal, but I had no luck on the Timken website. I'm going to pull the axles and replace the inner seals also, as well as the pinion seal. I will try to source the new seals through the McMaster Carr website.

Thanks guys. I'll look for them. Mike