kgreen

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kgreen last won the day on November 1 2017

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About kgreen

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  • Birthday 06/17/1957

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    Atlanta, GA

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  1. MrEarl's Daily Therapeutic Dose of Buick

    Think how cool this would be if it was a Dynaflow. But then again, who wants a wet floor?
  2. I JUST LOVE THE PICTURE OF THIS BUICK...........

    My wife and I drove up that way before Nationals, I dropped the Buick in Hancock for a little R & R. I'll go back this summer to pick it up.
  3. While the pan is off, consider plasti-gaging the rod and crank journals. To check for old rear seal leaks, since you have not run the engine, pull the flywheel cover off. If it has a good layer of dried oil, particularly at the drain hole in the bottom, you know it has been a leaker.
  4. I just completed work on my '40 engine, but it was out of the car. Even with the crank removed, getting the seal out of the block was a real chore. I can't imagine what it would take if the crank was still in the block. If you were to consider removing or loosening the crank, I think you are going to have access problems with the front cap. The crank weigh nearly 100 pounds and dealing with the weight while you are under the car could present yet another challenge. I get your point about doing the replacement with the engine in the car though. Pulling the front end sheet metal risks damage to the paint and is a multi-man effort. No one responded with an encouraging word, I hate that all I can offer is doubtful encouragement.
  5. Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Cadillac Show

    Do you anticipate many pre-war cars in attendance?
  6. I JUST LOVE THE PICTURE OF THIS BUICK...........

    I've learned that when copying photos from sources other than your hard drive, that you need to save the copied photo to your hard drive, then past it on this forum.
  7. How Would You Limit A Purchase of ONE Buick

    Here's what slowed me down; parts hunting! I bought the Buick I really wanted on top of two other cars that I settled on. My really-got-to-have-it Buick was an abandoned project with many missing parts. I have been enjoying the parts hunt as much as the car hunt. According to my hunting license, issued by a ward in the state's psychiatric hospital, (old room mate?), I have at least another three years before expiration. At that time I suspect I will be too exhausted and broke on a fixed income to have another car.
  8. Another significant factor in long engine life is constant use. Constant use doesn't mean 2 miles per day either. When an engine is warmed all the metal within the engine is at it operating temperature "size". The longer run times allow condensation to be expelled rather than accumulated in the crank case, under valve covers, etc. Low run times also increase carbon build-up. At least that was the case in older engines. Several of the examples of long engine life noted above are for constant or near constant use cars. I am guessing that my fully rebuilt 1967 289 Ford engine will struggle to get 50,000 miles before I am forced to replace seals at the very least. As a further example, General aviation engines are considered good for 2,000 reliable hours (generally speaking). If flown regularly and for sufficiently long trips, they can go 2,500 hours with no change in their original compression. If flown irregularly, they have maintenance headaches every 200 hours.
  9. preservation - Buffing Patina

    I have a 41 Ford Truck that was clear-coated by the previous owner to preserve the patina. Anyway, that is my guess. The clear coat did not give it that deep shiny look that it appears you want to avoid. He may have only applied one coat. It darkened the surface rust, but looks age appropriate. Here's a few shots for your interest. I removed old repairs and made patch panels. The shiny color you see in the next photo is for contrast against the clear-coated paint. It is a spray can paint application applied only to protect the bare metal from rust in the repair area. In short, I'd encourage you to consider a clear coat.
  10. Saginaw Steering gear box rebuild

    It is labeled with a number on the bottom side as follows: 265781 followed then by a circular symbol then the number 1. It is a Saginaw Gear produced for a 1940 Buick Roadmaster.
  11. Do the two bushings supporting the pitman shaft float or are they pressed in place? In the attached photo, I show the two bushings with a sleeve of some sort separating them. When disassembling the gear box, the bushings and sleeve came out without much effort. Further, can anyone provide the required tolerances for these bushings?
  12. Interior Judging

    On that note, why bother entering a judged situation if you can't learn from it? Is scoring basis not revealed because it gives car owners an edge to an argument?