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kgreen last won the day on November 1

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About kgreen

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  • Birthday 06/17/1957

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    Atlanta, GA

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  1. Any available? Part description (two parts): There is a vulcanized, light gage steel plate on the steering shaft assembly where it penetrates the firewall and a second similarly treated steel plate just over the brake and clutch pedals. Picture below: I cannot find this part in the Buick Master Parts book. Does this part have a name and is this part available? (Steele does not list this part.)
  2. 1940 Super Engine Splash Pan

    Just saw a set advertised for a 1940 Buick limited on eBay. Sold at this point, but here is a picture:
  3. 1940 Super Engine Splash Pan

    I've been searching for images for the 1940 splash pans. Nothing yet. Here is a picture of a pair for a 1936 Buick, not sure what series. The ask was $225
  4. Well, there goes the Buick restoration budget for the next four years!
  5. 1958 Caballero

    Referring back to your brake pedal bracket, you said that you used clear zinc. What manufacturer did you purchase from? That assembly looks great.
  6. 1940 Buick 76C Frame-off Restoration

    This post illustrates the fastener arrangement for the front fender to cowl attachment on the torpedo bodied Buicks. I had not found this information available previously, so here is a share. The car I purchased was an abandoned restoration. Many parts were missing and fasteners were oftentimes replaced with incorrect materials. These are the correct fasteners (right photo). THere are three bolts per side. The bolts slips into the clip as shown and is then inserted into the edge of the return on the fender. I found this location had rubber isolation sheet (similar to bicycle tire tube thickness) between the clip and the cowl. Further, I found the exposed bolt at the top of the fender, which is attached to an "L" clip, also had a rubber isolation material between the "L" clip and the cowl as seen in the photo below. The following is a sketch of the assembly of the concealed bolted connection between the front fender and cowl:
  7. OEM parts found!

    Looks like an ancient burial ground. Are you sure this is not a protected site?
  8. 1937 Buick Business coupe frame

    I just bought a loaded frame for a large series Buick this past summer, the engine ran. The steering gearbox, shaft, steering wheel and two original wheels were also attached. The guy was going to rat rod the body on a frame he was going to build. I might have been a special customer as I had to have the parts so you too will be looking for that special customer. I've seen small series frames like this advertised for many months going unsold. Having the original wheels would be desireable. You're in the range of $400 (got to go $) - $1,000 (got to have it $).
  9. 1940 Super Engine Splash Pan

    I've looked in the parts book and cannot find enough info to identify the part. I have seen it too. In fact there was a splash pan on both sides of the engine at frame level. I think it was a one piece pan on the right side and a two piece pan on the left side. I'd be interested in more info on this as well.
  10. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Nice project. Do you have a total car write-up?
  11. Buick ID/vin tag

    Appetite now wetted - need pics of the car.
  12. 1940 Buick 76C Frame-off Restoration

    Continuing from above post. New “up” stops had to be constructed, modeled after the one shown on the top of this photograph. These limit full height movement of the window when rolled up. They also provide front to rear tilt for alignment when the window is closed. The donor doors were in excellent condition, but some repair to rust was required. I had acquired both left and right doors and used the Cadillac skins from both doors. Repairs of rust and dents were conducted on the door skin before installation onto the inner door frame. Fitting exterior door skin from donor ’40 Cadillac coupe. You might notice the new hood that is yet to be sand blasted. It was easier and less expensive to replace the hood than to correct repairs to the hood supplied with the car. Fitting the door skin, aligning to the rear quarter panel. This is done by "torquing" the door adjusting the hinges and rotating the cowl. In order of alignment, the door must be correct first. It is then lined up with the cowl which can be moved (rotated) to provide alignment to the rear quarter panel. Lastly, NOS rocker panels that I acquired last summer will be attached and lined up with the door, rear quarter panel and front fender. Next up, is the replacement of the door jamb. A previous repair included replacement of the rear quarter panel to the jamb. However, the quarter panel was haphazardly attached to the jamb then corrected with filler along a natural seam just inside the door. The seam detail is lost because of the filler. We are acquiring jambs from a 4-door donor, allowing us to restore the original configuration of this right-side jamb. Mechanical work continues on the steering gear box. I’ve learned that a firm in Minneapolis will rebuild the steering gear box, but they qualify the rebuild to replace "only those parts that are needed". I’ve got two of these gear boxes and one seems to be from a lower mileage car. I degreased and disassembled both units. I think it is properly called a recirculating ball, worm gear. The gears show no sign of wear. The pitman shaft seal was obviously worn as both gear boxes had no lubrication remaining in them. This photo shows a ball bearing that keeps the top end of the steering shaft supported at the steering wheel. This bearing does not need replacement, rather disassembly, cleaning and repacking. This photo shows two roller bearings (one in the center left in photo) that contain thrust and forces perpendicular to the steering shaft. I have found replacement races, but not the roller bearings. I did find pitman shaft bushings (bottom left photo). The engine is in the machine shop. The engine that was in the car when purchased is a 1941 engine of unknown condition though reported to have been rebuilt. 1941 serial no. The offset "7" might be a punched number for a rebuilt block. I acquired a correct 1940 Roadmaster engine (left) with a serial number that matches a Roadmaster application and is a late 1940 production number to match late 1940 convertible production. I’m now matched as well as could hope. I also acquired a rebuilt, late 40’s engine which had been bored 0.020-in over, hoping to use these pistons, the crank, rods and valve train. This engine and has hydraulic lifters and insert bearing rods. Unfortunately, my preferred block needs to be bored 0.030-in over. Egge has 0.030-inch pistons but no other sizes. They tell me that they don’t plan to run any more for this engine as the demand is so small.
  13. 1940 Buick 76C Frame-off Restoration

    This month was dedicated to the door reconstruction. The right-side door suffered impact damage compounded by insurance-grade repairs possibly way back when the car was a viable driver. With a poorly fit door skin, the exterior of the right door had to be sculpted with upwards of ½-inch of filler. The left door previously had the skin re-attached with weld seams along the outside face around the perimeter of the door. Then there was the tear. The interior of the right door structure (right photo) was cut and stitched back with an offset. The insides of the doors were missing critical structural pieces as well. That included cross bracing and bracing fore/aft. RIght door no bracing. Left door with bracing. Reproduced horizontal bracing (un-primed part). The cross bracing is a rod threaded into a sleeve which is contained in this bracket. The right door bracket and cross brace required remanufacturing. The cross bracing is a threaded rod attached above the top door hinge and the lower outboard corner. This is the lower outboard corner where a threaded sleeve can be used to torque the door to fit and to provide support when someone leans on top of the open door. The interior structure of the right door, skin removed, blasted and epoxy primed. The lower corner required a patch to replace rusted structure. Interior door structure with miss-aligned stitching… Miss-aligned stitching corrected. Fitting the interior door panel strip (bottom of door), note new fore/aft bracing (dark color in primer). Interior door structure blasted and primed. The unprimed horizontal brace is for the right door and shown here as this brace was modeled after the left door brace.
  14. I once read a thread on another forum titled "restoring for the next generation". I think you are doing that at the very least. In fact, I suspect that 70 years from now when that car is restored again, GM will get a lot more credit for the care with which they assembled cars than they deserve, based on the effort that you put into this car.

    "Let's deal"