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kgreen last won the day on April 10

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About kgreen

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  • Birthday 06/17/1957

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    Atlanta, GA

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    A repalcement convertible top to match your attitude?
  2. Cars and Coffee SF Style

    Love number 15, thought I recognized it from another photo, but not the case. This is what I thought I might be looking at: At what dealer does this event occur? All the cars were fun to see, thanks for sharing.

    Is that acetylene for the headlamps?
  4. What does this 16" wheel fit?

    I can't find the reference, but I understood that the outer diameter of the tire on a 16 inch rim was the same as the outer tire diameter on a 15 inch rim. What judge would catch that?
  5. 1953 Convertibles project

    Good questions. I pulled a handfull of photos out for review and attached them below. The first set are from the underside of a 1940 Buick that saw service in the Detroit area then the Massachusets Cape (Cape Cod). This car is largely unmolested by any restoration or major dissassembly. I'm guessing, but even in the 40's northern states used salt. You can see where this car was undercoated on almost every surface, which would be likely given the northern environment. The Cape is a sandy environment and back in the 40's may have also salted, but I would guess had many unpaved roads. Regarding a sandy environment, my uncle was a mail carrier is rural south GA back in the 70's and drove mostly sandy roads. The bottom of his car looked like clean, sand blasted shiney steel. As a hunch (pure guess), I would think that the manufacturer would paint the metal after fabrication and before assembly just to keep flash rust down to a minimum. I would further assume that any buyer would have second thoughts looking at a brand new car with any rust on the undercarraige. Behind the front wheel looking inside the fender: Loooking up towards the floor mounted dimmer switch: This is the trailing edge of a body mount and could be paint. The trailing edges would likely see less blasting from the forward motion on dirt/sandy roads. If the bottom of the car was undercoated, the wires would also be coated. I see what looks like black coloring on adjacent metal surfaces. In this photo, I see black surfaces that do not look like undecoating. It could be tht the undercoating flaked off. The undercoating frequently used in that period would be an asphaltic material. As the undercoating dried out from voc loss, it became hard and would could lose its bond to the metal. Old undercoating and metal expand and contract at different rates through temperature change, causing debonding. At some point in the history of any car, oil leaks occured, coating the steel and preserving the steel from rust. In the photo below I see black colored steel on the trailing arms of the drive train as well as oil staining. I could understand some undercoat overspray on non-sheet metal body parts. This part does not appear to have undercoating but appears to have a black color that is in part the oil, but could be residual paint. The following photos are also from a 1940 model Buick that was lighty restored about 25 to 30 years ago. It was apparent when examining this car that the restorer spray painted black on accessible surfaces under the car. The car was repainted as well and portions of the front clip removed to repaint the frame. This car has original wiring and none of it displays paint overspray. The photo below shows the dimmer switch with body color overspray. This car was never undercoated. From this photo as well, you can see remains of a black color on some of the undercarrage steel. In the photo below it is apparent that the front clip was re-assembled after the restorer detail the frame, but then painted body color on the underside of the fenders. The bolt that was removed in the photo below displays a black color that would have been preserved from road exposure and the later repaint. I'm going to guess that the underside, non-consumer observed parts of these cars were painted black. I've heard others state that frames would have been painted semi gloss and would further surmise that the vendors providing parts used similar paint though the gloss ma have varied.
  6. 1958 Caballero

    Wait... You're going to drive this car? Good for you, I can't wait to get road grime on mine.
  7. The only improvement would have been rear-facing seats (and shoulder harnesses).
  8. What does this 16" wheel fit?

    I'm curious about what you have there as well. I have three 15x5.5 wheels that are the same in appearance; no depression for the hubcap. I was told this style belonged to Cadillac, but that is unconfirmed. Not piggy-backing, mine are not for sale.

    Yup, I'd trade my horse in for that!
  10. Hmmm, All I get is a dark screen with audio. I opened it with windows media player. Not inclined to use that Apple product that keeps popping up.
  11. 1940 Buick 76C Frame-off Restoration

    Updated to show final install yesterday.

    Another view of a different car than the one you posted Stooge. The only reason I know it is a Roadmaster is that I have other photos of this car.

    In my heart of hearts I want this to be a Roadmaster, too. It is definately the C platform, but without a better view of the forward portion of the car there is a 50/50 chance we have a Super in this photo. Just did a coin toss; now confirming it is a Roadmaster and it is making its way to my screen saver as well. Thanls for sharing.
  14. 1940 Buick 76C Frame-off Restoration

    Here's Terry's car with the tail pipe cut out. I forget exactly, but Terry's car was an earlier production 76C whereas mine was number 499 of 606. I don't commonly see the exhaust cut out on other 40 Buicks, even my 1940 Super with the same C platform does not have this cut out. The other thing to note is that Terry's tailpipe has a Buick part number on it. That leads me to conclude that the angled cut on the tailpipe is authentic. At least authentic for that parts supplier. the cut out and the angled cut make a nice finished look (IMO).
  15. 1940 Buick 76C Frame-off Restoration

    Remanufacturering the rear tail pan and tool tray: The first step was correcting the deck lid. My old deck lid was severely damaged and like too many other pieces of the car weighed in heavily with plastic filler. It also appeared to be from another GM model as the tail light accesses were not present. The replacement deck lid was fitted and the seems around the permeter of the lid adjusted for uniformity. The bottom weather strip gutter was manufactured first to match the deck lid, then the tail pan made up to fit the gutter. Here's the rear end with a good fit on the weatherstrip gutter. The gap you see arpund the lower end of the tail pan was caused when the tail pan was cut away, leaving room to work the gutter and deck lid. Note the stitching in the old tail pan from a previous repair. Left side lower gutter: Right side lower gutter Cut, bend and add new metal to reform the body at the deck lid. Again old damage repair is being removed and redone. New section tack welded Finished with the weld making the side contours and deck lid gap correct. There will be no need for filler on this repair. Forming the new tail pan The tail pan was made in four pieces, tack welded, fitted, adjusted and finish welded. Comparing the form of the new tail pan to one removed from another car with a bad rust problem. The tail pan on my car was not rusted, just sufficiently damaged and poorly repaired such that it's form was questionable. Forming the right side of the tail pan. Pieced together: The indignant rear end view The top left and right sections at the tail light openings were made larger to allow for a weld seam in the same factory location. In this photo, the new tail pan is test fitted. Right rear 3/4 shot: Te tail light and bumper bracket openings were cut. Cross checking alignment and fit Tack welded at gutter Before going much further the tool tray and the rear portion of the trunk bed had to be fabricated and fit Here it is formed and and test assembled. The gutter for the deck lid was test fitted before installation on the car. Inside view of tool tray and tail pan fitment Time for a little weight loss cutting the old tail pan and tool tray off the car. I've already located new trunk props so the 2x4 will be replaced at a later date. Next up was repair to the inner fender well on both left and right sides Right side: out with the old, in with the new metal. Left side: out with the old, in with the new: Left side fully welded and finished. One last add, Terry Boyce's unmolested car had an exhaust cut out on the lower left side of the tail pan that was replicated here: Inside panel view of cut out Outside panel view of exhaust cut out: This work was performed by Dan's son who was on spring break from Michigan Tech. He is a very talented young man as well as demonstrably intelligent. The tail pans of almost all of this era car are almost always rusted through and through or have been kissed by another car. We are going back to the doors to complete them so work can begin on the inner and outer rocker panels.