capngrog

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About capngrog

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    AACA Member
  • Birthday 12/25/2014

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  • Location:
    Paisley, Florida USA

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  • Biography
    I enjoy both classic and modified (hot rods) cars. I'm lucky in that I enjoy doing all my own work, because I couldn't afford to pay someone else to do it for me!

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  1. capngrog

    partial vin decode

    The suffix code "TYZ" refers to a 350 c.i. engine produced between 1975 and 1977. This would have been an engine with a 4bbl carburetor producing 165 h.p. I hope this helps. Cheers, Grog
  2. Attached are some photos of the three-gauge below-dash panel installation on my 1968 Chevelle. A friend of mine who owns a numbers-matching 1968 Chevelle has a similar after market gauge set up and says that they are "period correct". I don't worry too much about the "period correct/numbers matching" stuff, but I like the look of the panel installation. They work fine and are easy to read. I think that a similar below-dash setup would be the way to go. Oh, by the way, I agree with Matt on the advice on the full sweep (270°) mechanical temperature gauge. The temperature sensor for my gauge is in the left (driver's side) cylinder head of the 396 engine. As Matt stated above, I think the best location for a temperature gauge sensor would be in the vicinity of the thermostat. Below are some photos of the gauge cluster in my Chevelle. Cheers, Grog
  3. A popular addition back in those days was an under dash 3-gauge 'cluster' consisting of oil pressure, temperature and volts/amps. I have such a gauge 'cluster' under dash in my '68 SS 396 Chevelle, and it looks and works fine. By the way, the stock instruments in the '68 Chevelle are extremely difficult to read in bright sunlight, due to their being recessed a bit too far back in the panel. That's just my opinion. Oh yeah, and the stock tach in '68 is so useless that I'd not "hit a dog in the derriere" with it! That being said, my '68 Chevelle SS 396 is one of my favorites ... not just to look at, but also to drive. By the way, Lebowski, that's a really great looking Chevelle. You'll have fun driving her this summer. There should be a heat gauge sensor already in the engine (block or head) that would have supported the over-temperature "idiot light". I'm not sure if such a sensor would provide accurate signals to a 'real' gauge, however. Cheers, Grog
  4. While you're deciding on what kind of gauge to install and where to install it, you should get one of these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Etekcity-Digital-Thermometer-Laser-Infrared-Temperature-Gun-Lasergrip-1080/39881573?athcpid=39881573&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVAV&athieid=v0&athstid=CS002&athguid=466001f5-c95c4f6b-a05cefbe7626a578&athena=true These infrared temperature guns/sensors work really well, and at the price, every tool box (and glove box) should have one. Cheers, Grog
  5. capngrog

    Identify car from picture

    Greg, I was wondering about those marks myself but forgot all about the practice of making such marks on crash test vehicle tires. I was thinking that maybe due to unusually high sideways forces, the tires contacted a part of the frame ... or sumthin'. Maybe not. Cheers, Grog P.S. The bottom (color) image looks like some plastic model car that someone selectively and skillfully melted.
  6. capngrog

    Identify car from picture

    Just to add another guess to this puzzle, I think that the rollover was to the right, judging from the scratches on top of the left rear fender and the position of the door indicating that the roof was displaced to the right. This could have occurred when the car was first rolling 180° from its initial upright orientation. I would guess that the car rolled at least 1-1/2 times and came to rest upside down (per Rusty's and Greg's comments). Maybe, maybe not ... Cheers, Grog
  7. capngrog

    Identify car from picture

    Rusty, I think that you are again correct in your assessment. Not only are the tires not exhibiting contact load flattening (I just made that term up) as you observed, the suspension appears to be unloaded. That's an excellent observation on the gas spillage pattern, and I think you're right. Greg, that looks to be close to the real orientation of this photo. It also explains the further fuel staining of the trunk lid apart from that immediately beneath the fuel filler pipe. Good detective work guys. I think that the NTSB is hiring. Cheers, Grog
  8. capngrog

    Identify car from picture

    I agree that this is an accident photo that has been extensively cropped. Judging by the scrape marks on top of the left rear fender, this car may have been rolled over in a traffic crash. The license plate appears to be a Missouri license plate and not a North Dakota plate. From a quick googol search of 1956 - 1961 North Dakota plates, it seems that all of these plates have the state name, "North Dakota" spelled out across the top of the plate. The format of the plate on the Ford in the O.P.'s photo follows that of Missouri plates of the period. For example, typical Missouri plate of the era is shown in the attachment below. Cheers, Grog
  9. capngrog

    Identify car from picture

    What happened to the roof and windows? Were they chopped off in reality, or cropped photographically? Cheers, Grog
  10. capngrog

    Name the title of the movie?

    "Driving Miss Carriage". Cheers, Grog
  11. capngrog

    Tin Woody experts....need your assistance

    Buggirl: Is this the"tin woody" you were looking at on ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-Chevrolet-Other/253609600260?hash=item3b0c4f6504:g:6M4AAOSwo9Fa8hGV If so, it looks like a pretty good basis for a really ambitious project. Unless you have the skills required for a project of this nature (or the desire to develop such skills), projects like this would not be the way to go. Of course, if you had lots of $$$, that's what a project like this would take to make it road and eye-worthy. What is interesting about the 1950 "tin woody" is that someone has made an attempt to paint on faux wood grain. Whomever painted this did not do a very good job of it, but it does give you an indication of what is possible. Here's a short video showing various "painted on" wood graining techniques: As previously mentioned on this thread, I would go with the best car (mechanically and appearance-wise) that I could afford. That way you could get immediate enjoyment from driving it and could tinker with it at your leisure. With patience, I think you'll be able to find something that you'll like and enjoy driving. Both ebay and Craigslist are good sources, but don't forget the online versions of Auto Trader and Hemmings. Depending on your location, there would probably also be local sources/listings of suitable cars. Here in Florida, we have some regional publications/websites that list some really good cars for sale ... at seemingly reasonable prices. If you let us know your location (region or state) someone from that area could recommend more locally-focused sources for collector cars. Good luck with your quest. Cheers, Grog
  12. capngrog

    ALICE'S DRIVE: VEIL, DUSTER, AND TIRE IRON

    "VEIL, DUSTER, AND TIRE IRON" If she was travelling alone back in those days of the Wild West, I'll bet the tire iron served a dual purpose. Cheers, Grog
  13. capngrog

    ALICE'S DRIVE: VEIL, DUSTER, AND TIRE IRON

    It appears that copies are available on Amazon; however, they seem to be very expensive ($79 - $150). Try this link: https://www.amazon.com/Alices-Drive-Republishing-Veil-Duster/dp/1880397560 Other sources of the book may be available. Let us know how you make out. It sounds like a very interesting story. Cheers, Grog
  14. capngrog

    1942 Woody value

    Where are YOU located? I'm sorry, I just couldn't help it. One of the fascinating things about this particular forum is the geographic variety of the locations of various Posters, and I can't understand why some folks don't list their location. An address isn't necessary, but a City, State, Region or even a Country would add to the interest of various posts. For example, if the Original Poster of this thread had listed his location (City or State) one of our members could have volunteered to help him out with his value assessment. Don't take my comments seriously or as criticism, it's just one of this old man's pet peeves. Back to the subject of this thread. The only thing I can tell from the included photos is: It's a 1940 Plymouth woody station wagon(thanks Keiser31); There is light damage to the right front fender and the headlight and trim are missing; There is one large (1in. +/- ?) and four smaller holes located below the right headlight which may have been from an after market turn signal installation; The hood ornament and some of the chrome pieces of the grille are missing; The canvas top appears to be wrinkled (not a good sign); There appears to be rust at the point where the upper windshield frame meets the canvas top; The driver's door appears to be missing. I agree with Rusty in that the value could be somewhere between $500 and $50,000 based on the information included by the O.P. We don't know the condition of the drive train, or even if it is present. What about the interior? Does the car have a valid, transferrable title? The presence of a good title, alone, could significantly affect the value of the car. My guess (I'm far from being an expert), based on information available, is that the "As Is" value would be VERY roughly between $500 and $2,000. This is based upon the assumption that the car suffers missing wooden body components and fittings and lacks a title, drive train, interior etc. This is an honest guess as to the value of the subject vehicle and does not constitute an offer to purchase; therefore, my valuation (ill-informed as it may be) cannot be considered "lowballed ... thievery". Cheers, Grog
  15. As previously quoted in post #2, a hot rod is: "... an automobile rebuilt or modified for high speed and fast acceleration. " With that said, a hot rod can personify excellence in many ways: aesthetics, mechanical, body, interior, paint finish etc. A rat rod, on the other hand, is an open declaration of revolt against automotive aesthetics and often looks like a pile of junk or a vehicle used in the junk man's rounds of the local trash/junk piles. These seeming rolling piles of junk are often free-wheeling expressions of or attempts at "Trash Art". A true rat rod conceals or camouflages real mechanical and construction excellence under a veneer of junk. A rat rod without mechanical and construction excellence is merely a "scat rod" and, while mildly interesting, is without redeeming features. Just my opinion. Cheers, Grog P.S. I like rat rods. I have one.