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About capngrog

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    AACA Member
  • Birthday 12/25/2014

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  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    Paisley, Florida USA


  • Biography
    I enjoy both classic and modified (hot rods) cars. I'm lucky in that I enjoy doing all my own work, because I couldn't afford to pay someone else to do it for me!

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  1. I share your fascination with old gas stations, and, at one time, had considered buying one and 'saving' it from the wrecking ball. I've never rescued an old gas station, so I don't know a lot about the process; however, part of the "PROCESS" will involve the EPA and/or its local counterpart(s). At the very least, numerous soil samples and groundwater samples will be required to determine whether or not the site has been contaminated by an old leaking gas tank. If the "PROCESS" reveals even minimal contamination, costs will probably soar out of sight, making any further attempt at rescue a budget buster. If you find a likely candidate for rescue, have an environmental site survey performed before spending any significant $$$. What is the status of the gas station shown in your photo? It appears to be a likely candidate. A frame structure like that could be moved to another site, thus obviating the need for the participation of governmental environmental Nazis agencies. Good luck and keep us informed of your progress. Cheers, Grog
  2. This is what I learned from surfing the 'net as suggested by bobg1951chevy. From an official GM publication, the location of the VIN for a 1971Chevrolet C10 is described as thus: "Location: On plate attached to the rear face of left-hand door hinge pillar and on right side of cowl under hood." According to other sources, the location of the VIN for a 1970 Chevrolet C10 is on the driver's side door jamb, just beneath the striker plate. Another VIN (apparently metal tape) is on the back of the glove box door. I guess that either the VIN location was changed for the 1971 model year or the internet information is wrong. The VIN numbers on the TOP of the frame rail, (one on driver's side beneath the cab, the other in the engine bay driver's side opposite P.S. pump pulley) apparently are only partial numbers which furnish only the model year, assembly plant and assembly sequence. Oh, by the way, where is the Original Poster, glredmanii on all of this? Cheers, Grog
  3. So, what's wrong with "trying to steal" a car by offering to buy it? If the seller thinks that the price is too low, he/she can either decline the offer or hit the buyer with a counter offer ..." let the games begin"! Of course, with every negotiation, ATTITUDE is everything. A showing of mutual respect between seller and buyer will make even a "no sale" negotiation a positive experience. Cheers, Grog
  4. Greg, Could you please post a link to the ebay listing? Thanks, Grog
  5. What is that device hanging just above the photos? It looks like a gasoline nozzle mounted on a rifle or shot gun butt stock. Could it be a nozzlebutt or a gunozzle, or sumthin' like that? It looks like you could aim the thing, so you might be able to hook it up to a supply of "Cold Fire", thus becoming the envy of the entire fire protection community. I think I can figger out how to operate the thing, except for the black wrought iron handle attached to the lower tang of the butt stock. Is that a guard for a secondary 'set' trigger for a hair trigger on the nozzle? Do you have a patent on that device? Cheers, Grog
  6. I wanted to quote Vintagerodshop on this while deleting the video. Unfortunately, I could delete everything EXCEPT the video! AAARRRRGGHH!! Anyway, after trying to research this "Cold Fire" stuff, I was unable to find out what the UL 2N75 Standard is and could find no reference to an NFPA or FM approval. This "Cold Fire" seems to be almost "too good to be true". The one thing in particular that I'm having trouble wrapping my 'brane' around is the claim that "Cold Fire" absorbs 21 times more heat than water. If I understand the "Cold Fire" technology correctly, it is used in differing concentrations in water. If all the claims are true, a "Cold Fire" extinguisher would certainly be a worthy addition to any home or commercial vehicle maintenance facility. Apparently, "Cold Fire" solutions will freeze in routinely-encountered (up 'north', not here in Florida) freezing weather. Cheers, Grog A
  7. As Digger says, the best fire protection is "fire prevention". In addition to electrical isolation and installation of MONITORED smoke detectors, good housekeeping is a vital key to fire prevention. Halotron is not the same as Halon. As Digger said, Halon 1211 is a form of Halon that is more appropriate for use in hand extinguishers than its chemical cousin, Halon 1301. Halon 1211 is a "streaming agent" which gasifies at normal atmospheric pressures and whose main health concern is oxygen displacement (smothering), similar to that of CO2. Halon 1301, in concentrations greater than 13% can cause respiratory distress, heart irregularities, and, in prolonged exposures, death. Of course at a 20% concentration of Halon, oxygen is depleted to such an extent that humans cannot survive (similar to the smothering effect of CO2). Halon 1211 extinguishers are available from several sources. Here's one on 'em: Both Halon 1211 and 1301 will break down into highly toxic chemical components upon encountering temperatures in excess of 900° F. This is especially true in the case of direct impingement of Halon on a hot metal surface. Note that temperatures in an 'ordinary' structure (house) fire can easily exceed 1,000°F. Try not to use these extinguishers in a confined space. I believe that a Halon 1211 hand fire extinguisher is superior to a similar CO2 extinguisher in most cases and would make an effective extinguisher for both vehicle and shop. Cheers, Grog
  8. I think you're right. I believe this picture is of a 1941 Lincoln: I could be wrong, of course. Greg LaR, do you know what year model that's the subject of your photo? Except for the tail lights, it looks really close. Cheers, Grog
  9. What is that? A Rolls-Royce? The roof looks sorta Rollsish, but the rest, especially it having only two doors, not so much. Cheers, Grog
  10. V2, Thanks for posting that. I've been watching the 'Pickers' show for a number of years now and have always enjoyed the show. One would have to assume a certain amount of "scripting" in a show like this; however, as your posted link explains, the show is much more realistic when Mike and Frank are genuinely surprised by what they find. The cameramen are the real pros in a show like this since they have to follow Mike and Frank everywhere, yet still get the clear, stable shots. I'll be watching 'Pickers' tonight and thank Nick 8086 for his original post and the heads up. Cheers, Grog
  11. Oily Rag is absolutely correct due to the fact that over time, gravity prevails and the dry chemical agent will tend to "clump up" at the bottom of the fire extinguisher cylinder. Although this "clumping" theory is not universally recognized, I think it makes sense, and what harm can an occasional "whack" do? A "whack" can be administered by the heel of your hand or by a rubber mallet ... use common sense here. The "whack" should be administered near the bottom of the fire extinguisher cylinder, either on the bottom itself, or on the side near the bottom. A properly administered "whack" will not cause a fire extinguisher to explode. No disrespect intended, Oily Rag, but your type should not be left laying about the garage (or any place else) due to the possibility of spontaneous combustion. You should be kept in a tightly sealed metal container. Although the risk of spontaneous combustion is pretty low with rags soaked in motor oil, a rag soaked in linseed oil will light off on a hot day if you even just look at it cross-eyed (well, almost). Cheers, Grog
  12. In my 30 X ft. garage I have two 10 lb. dry chemical (ABC) extinguishers and one 10 lb. CO2 (BC) extinguishers. Be sure to permanently mount these on a wall with prominent markings. Also make sure that the extinguishers are always accessible and are not used for coat hangers etc. Although CO2 extinguishers are most effective on burning liquids, they can be used on most things automotive in a direct impingement method. I like to think that I'd use the CO2 as a first defense and the dry chemical as a last defense against an incipient fire: however, in the event of a real fire, I'm sure I'd panic and use whatever was closest. The reason for the use of CO2 is that it leaves little or no residue and is great for electrical fires; on the other hand, although very effective, dry chemical extinguishers make a mess and destroy electrical circuitry. A water mist extinguisher is very effective on most SMALL fires. The main thing is to have the phone number of the local fire department prominently posted. Although it requires a level of discipline, it is best to call the fire department before attempting to fight the fire yourself. In your shop (and house) have the largest extinguisher possible, yet one that can be easily handled by the average human being. Remember, the best fire fighting is fire PREVENTION, and a big part of this is common sense and house keeping. Cheers, Grog
  13. That train/chain racing is about the dumbest form of auto racing I've ever seen. I love it! I'd pay $$$ to see that sort of race. The trailer racing could be as cool if the rules would stipulate that all trailers were of the same class. For example, an empty jet ski trailer should not be in the same class as a mostly stock travel trailer. Cheers, Grog
  14. A 1915 Oakland is hardly a car that could be easily sold for a quick pay day. A thief that would steal a car like this probably had a plan before it was stolen. He probably either had a deal for parts or someone who would buy the entire car. In my opinion, the most likely fate for the intact/complete car would be that it was shoved into a shipping container and shipped overseas. That's the way it was done in Miami, Florida, either through the Port of Miami or the Port of the Miami River. Damn the thieving bastard anyway, Grog