ricosan

I can’t tell you what it is but it’s not a 1935 Ford. Look for something older. Model T?

I found the passenger side door pin was loose. I managed to get a socket on the backside of the pin but it refused to tighten up. I screwed it out completely. It felt like someone had used loctite on it. I cleaned up both the pin threads and the nut. Replaced the pin in the jamb along with the original washer and I added a lock washer to it. I was able to secure the pin tightly against the jamb. Both the passenger and driver side doors are secure and they no longer rattle AND the doors have never looked better! Thanks to everyone of who.by your suggestions and comments helped me figure this on out. A special thanks to Cecil. Richard

Hey Guys, Today I was able to get a socket on the nut that is on the back of the pin. I held the pin toward the outside of the jamb and tightened the nut with the socket wrench. I closed the door and it didn’t grab fully. I tried with a little more force and the claw fully engaged the pin. No movement at all! It looks great from the outside too. I may need to adjust the passenger side too. I still want to figure out what the mechanism is that will prevent the door from unintentionally opening. Anyone have info about this? A picture? Richard

46 woodie. I keep my wagon in my garage but it’s not weatherized except when I’m working in there. The doors are really tight. I don’t think you could squeeze a credit card between the door jamb and the door at the area of the latch. I didn’t get out to the garage today but plan to investigate further tomorrow. Richard

NewOldWood, it doesn’t look like it has ever been touched except for the door pin. Last month I found the door pin loose so I tightened it up. It doesn’t have a lot of adjustment - less than 1/8” in or out. When comparing the passenger side door latch it doesn’t appear to be fully engaged. The mechanism that operates the “safety lock” is apparently covered up by the kick panel. As soon as I get the chance, I’ll remove the panel and see what is going on. Cecil said that he put one in every wagon he built. Richard

46 woodie, I’m thinking the same as you. Pin too short. A couple of washers might be enough. Tom and New Old Wood, I talked to Cecil at Hercules and he believes that the claw isn’t closing up completely when the door is closed. This is going to take some more investigation. This surprised me. He says that he put a device behind the kick plate that pushes a rod through the jamb and into a hole in the door to prevent the door from opening unintentionally while at speed. I found the two holes but don’t see any activator in the area. More investigation. Richard

JF, I think body flex may have something to do with it. Richard

Thanks Tom, I’m going to call them tomorrow. Richard

New old wood, that’s a good idea. Maybe he has a solution. I’ll get in touch with Cecil tomorrow. Richard

Hey J, if you look real close at the door pin it looks like the latch is grabbing near the end of the pin. I think that when I hit an uneven patch of road, the latch shifts or moves in some way causing the latch catch to pop off of the end of the pin. I’ve examined the other latches and they look like they are close to the same condition. I’ve been looking for a pin maybe 1/4” longer but 1” is the longest I can fiind. Richard

Hey Guys, My first post. i have a 1933 woodie with a new body by Hercules. A couple of weeks ago I was cruising on a back road when I suddenly hit a bumpy spot in the road and the driver side door flew open. Fortunately only a little damage that can be repaired with a few clamps. since that time the door has come open 2 more times, I wasn’t going that fast and caught it both times. Now I am scared to drive it with latching mechanism on the car now. The latches on my wagon are made by Eberhart Manufacturing. Anyone have any suggestions for a more secure latch?

I got them off! I got the big hand sledge and kept fighting for 2 days. Ion the second day i gave it a few good whacks on the threaded rod and in “popped” loose. The right side came off easier. The shoes looked good. I adjusted both sides and took it for a drive today. Brakes are working good. Thank you Richard

Thanks for all the great advise guys, this is what I needed to hear. I think I was approaching the job too timidly. I was using a 16 oz hammer. I have a hand sledge that’s about three to four pounds. richard

Hey guys, I’m trying to remove the rear brake drums from my 1932 Marmon. I’ve attached a hub puller to the drum and wound it up pretty tight. I sprayed a penetrating oil at the axle/hub area and allowed it to sit overnight. With the puller attached, I heated the axle/hub area (small propane torch) and gave the tip of the threaded rod a few good whacks. It won’t budge. Any suggestions of something else to try? Richard

Hey Menno, I asked this same question a coup;e of years ago when I was rebuilding my engine. I got no answers. I painted my engine a dark green although I suspect that the original color was probably black.

Charley, If you can’t find one, I think you could easily reproduce one with simple shop tools. It’s a bit of fiddly work but the satisfaction of having repaired it yourself would be so worth it IMHO. Richard

Wow! I probably won’t find rendered bear fat at Pep Boys! Thanks for all the suggestions, your experiences as well as the products used. It sounds like I have a big job ahead if I decide to tackle it. Richard Duvall

I have a 1932 Marmon. The leather is in “good” condition but is showing signs of drying out with an uneven look. What is the process for bringing this leather back to life?

Phil, Restoration Supply Co. ricosan

That was beautiful! I love the sound at the very end. Well done. Richard

Hey Guys, I am new to fords butI am looking at a 1933 ford for sale but I have some concerns about the water temperature and oil pressure gauges. The seller says it doesn't have a water temp gauge or an oil pressure/temp gauge. I say these cars couldn't last 80+ years without this information. What gives? ricosan

Hey Mark, Here is a photo. Not a very good picture but it should have these numbers on the case.

Interested in purchasing a 3spd transmission manufactured by Detroit Gear & Machine around 1930 -'32. Any condition considered. ricosan

Looking for a 3spd "Detroit Gear & Machine" transmission from early thirties. Any condition considered.

Hey guys, I am looking for a transmission for My 1932 Marmon. It is manufactured by Detroit Gear & Machine and it's a 3 spd, synchromesh. Any condition will be considered. I believe that the numbers on this transmission are as follows; "Detroit Gear & Machine S11 - 1 - D" Any leads appreciated. ricosan