C Carl

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Everything posted by C Carl

  1. HI Troy ! What series and body style is your '29 Buick ? This is a series 40 Doctors Coupe. If you click into high res , you can see that some of the wood is in pretty good shape. Particularly where the hinges fasten , as this is the area you have asked about. First , I understand that '29 and '30 Buicks are extremely similar. If your body and mine share the parts you need , I can make prints since these pieces are accessible now. My feeling is that year to year commonality is likely , we just need to know series and body style. Also , we should include this discussion down in Pre - War Buick. Some of the Buick people don't get far from Buick specific forums. There is also a fellow not too far from you who is parting out a 40 series chassis. He may still have a gas tank cover. He will be coming back from Florida in a couple of months. I sure wish I could do the same ! I will give you a call. - Carl
  2. Steering Gear lubricant change

    Very good idea , but not just any oil or grease. Semi-fluid 00 grease. Penrite Steering Box Lube is exactly that. - Carl
  3. Hi Ken. First , is there any yellow metal to be concerned about in your trans or rear end ? As this 00 grease is EP , it could be so in part due to the sulphur which causes the erosion. High pressure gear lubrication which is an EP semi-fluid grease would be great stuff for worm gears. Your transmission, of course , has no need for EP , though 00 is a good viscosity for a crashbox. In the unlikely event your rear end is worm drive , you will need an EP lube there. If not , you have absolutely no need for EP. Hypoid gears also require EP , but in 1914 Gleason Gear Works was still a decade or so away from developing hypoid. And then at that point , general use of hypoid for automobile gears was another decade or so in the future. To sum it up , if no yellow metal , no worries ! And if no worm gears , no need for EP ! But I do not know if this particular grease is corrosive. On the other hand , you can be sure there are 00 greases which are not EP. I use 250 weight gear oil in my mid '20s Cadillacs. I do put a tube of grease in the trans also. It is a high impact grease designed for extremely heavy duty service in mining machinery. I still occasionally blow a shift. 😢 - Carl
  4. 1924 White Yellowstone bus Help

    Assume you have dropped the pan and cleaned all sludge including the oil pickup ? No better time to check the bearings. What did you find down there ? Pre lube everything you can reach (valve train , etc.) , with a very heavy motor oil , and prime the oil pump with the same. This can be done by feeding heavy oil (I have actually used a turkey baster - don't tell Sandy) , at the line outlet to the pressure gauge. It looks like you know your way around ancient vehicles , this is all S.O.P. Obviously you have lubed the cyl walls when you freed up the engine. As to first charge of oil , use a very light , perhaps 0W/20 , high detergent oil. It will turn very black very quickly , but you must insure that the oil circulates and reaches everything. Use cheap oil at first , and change VERY frequently if you can not adapt a full flow filter. Maybe at 40 - 50 miles first change. If it is not black yet , you might be able to go 100. My '24 Cadillac had been used to a diet of 40 wt non detergent. I wanted to get that junk outta there and give it a treat. Here is a pic of the full flow oil filter with a cleanable 40 micron screen installation we did. You really have to look to see it from above. There was zero sludge ANYWHERE when we dropped the pan. Zee - ro ! The bearings were fine. Filled with 15W/50 Synthetic , and ran a few hundred miles. Drained , and cleaned something like 1/2 cup , maybe a bit more out of the filter. Repeated over 500 miles or so , way less crud. Maybe a thimble full next. Now , changing at 1000 miles almost nothing. I would like to try to find a 20 micron screen. But after several thousand miles , the oil still gets black quickly. It does not hurt anything , and as I say , the filter comes up empty for all practical purposes. I am now using the finest oil possible for an old vehicle like this which has layup periods. Amsoil Z-Rod. I use the 20W/50. They also make a 10W/30. Or mix 50/50 for 15W/40. Or find a better oil and let me know. Nothing but the best for my cars. I love your new toy ! I am really happy that your long wait and patience paid off ! What fun ! - Carl
  5. I seem to remember that 331 Cads (my '49 fastback) , had white letters and also the raised ribs on the valve covers. It has been a very long time to totally rely on a memory. I rather like the blackwalls , and tire size. Don't let the top get wet. Damp wipe only. Might be a good idea to peel and reapply the vinyl after wire brush and shooting massive amounts of that spray zinc over and into all rusted areas. That might slow or stop the spread until you are ready for surgery. - Carl
  6. Need Oval Gas Tank

    David , as it has been almost 6 months , I am somewhat tempted to show you some of Bernie Long's parts piles. Unfortunately (or maybe not - rust forms slowly in inland Southern Cal) , Bernie is about an hour East of L.A. Also , I have not talked to him since last Summer. If you don't know anyone in the area , we surely must have a member who knows Bernie. He is a well-known old hoss trader. FWIW , take a look. - Carl
  7. 1934 Plymouth PE sedan for sale

    Hey Rich : Send the lawyers an EMAIL OFFER to be fwd by K8096. Email negotiations are actionable. Include your bid history , and your final , bottom line offer. Include payment to be made within a period , and the instrument of payment. Make sure to give them X period of time , after which the offer is VOID (this is important protection). Let them know this is your maximum offer , any subsequent offers will be less. Remind them that any other interested parties may well have to deal through the daisy chain also. Few people know the value of a bird in hand better than lawyers. Be sure to consult with K8096 on the language and terms of your offer commitment. K8096 has been around these parts a long time , and is a good and knowledgable guy. Good luck ! I hope you rekindle those precious memories of your dad. - Carl
  8. Opinions re. Condition II

    Do not by any stretch of imagination expect this car to handle like a modern car in any respect whatsoever. 80 years of automotive engineering has advanced the state of the art , as you will come to apreciate. Having a foot planted firmly in each epoc will give you a marvelous perspective. Now tires have advanced also. There is nothing wrong with the enhanced handling and safety benefits from radials. On the other hand , there are only three things wrong with the old bias tires : (if I may be permitted to paraphrase and misquote an old demagogue of a politician - you may P.M. me for the sordid details , unfit for public discourse). He said : "Ain't but three things wrong with ............(he continued on with an increasing crescendo of rising volume)............. " , and I misquote : "Ain't but three things wrong with them old bias tires : Bias Ply ! BIAS Ply !! BIAS PLY !!! ". Black walls always have a "getting down to business" look. Cruiser. I really enjoy driving my cars. There are modern radial light truck tires that will do more for your car than a complete rebuild of every steering and suspension component. Happy , safe cruising with that right car for you ! Matt , Lawrence and I have spoken , but are not yet silenced ! - Carl
  9. New forest Cadillac

    Pilgrim , I certainly wish you an early Spring ! Other folks have found out the attraction to these cars with good reason. Consider yourself warned : Play around with '37 Cads long enough and you will have to own one. Particularly after you get some wheel time in them. 🤗 - Carl
  10. 1938 plymouth coupe

    Well exCUSE me , PLEASE ! Down in Chrysler Products - Buy/Sell , Roy has an add for : 30/40s Chrysler products air cleaner. It looks quite a bit like the one on Doug's fine car. So I gotta eat a nice crow pot pie for lunch. Shows my lack of experience with these cars. The only thing I can say in my embarrassed defense is that I do have experience with Cadillacs of the period. You know , the big oil bath air cleaners. Those huge things look very archaic by comparison. The exposed modern filter element might have to share my blame. Good to know that there is a replacement element which plugs right in. Let me take this opportunity to give an unsolicited compliment to Roy and his products and prices. I have dealt with him on occasion , and am super pleased. Great , often hard to find things. He never tries to squeeze the last buck out of a sale. Prompt professional attention. Here is a pic of what Roy has. He was asking $20 plus shipping , but will take reasonable offer. For the purists out there , those who might be somewhat put off by any anachronistic aspects , Roy's price would be worth it just to be able to plug in the original element for show ! Now it is not my place to speak for Doug , but I wouldn't be the least surprised if he would reimburse full cost of your purchase from Roy if you end up buying this road ready cruiser. Again , I hope my apology absolves me to some degree. Yet another corroboration of the danger of assumptions. - CC
  11. Don't be too eager to pull the body off. The amount of bracing needed to avoid damage and misalignment is substantial. The other aspect is with the body on the frame , you are properly jigged up to re-wood that big body. That is a tough enough task to do under the best of circumstances. Just a little deviation , or flex may make it somewhere between overwhelmingly difficult and impossible to get the car right again. Even a steel framed car has to be properly braced in order to pull the body. Your situation is vastly more critical. There are plenty of other things you can do with all of the running gear , etc. to keep you busy while doing the wood. Let this be an invitation to the very experienced guys here to explain the correct sequence to deal with a large 4 door sedan in this condition. I have never done it , nor at this point ever will. Take your time , ask a lot of questions , and don't assume anything regarding new tricks. - CC
  12. Sounds like you have your head on straight , and are in good hands ! Glad to hear it ! - CC
  13. cevensky : Mind what 1939_Buick has advised you. Hear ? Of all the tens of thousands of helpful postings I have been pleased to read here , that is right up there in the very top of the heap. Good discipline to lay down the wrenches until you are papered up. Seriously. I hope to turn 74 real soon , and wish I had learned that lesson when I was your age. GREAT , BEAUTIFUL '33 Bu'. I came home from the hospital back in 1944 in a '33 ! But it wasn't a 90. Obviously I can't remember that day , but I do remember the car from a couple or three years later. Dad's next car was a '39 Pont'. Take your time and do that big 90 right. Thanks for saving it ! - Cadillac Carl
  14. New forest Cadillac

    Looks like a 1937 Model 65 to me. Last year for a floor shift Cadillac , and the first year for the 346 cu. in. monoblock V8. These 346 flatheads ran through 1948 under constant improvment. These are extremely good cars. Fast , handle well , great brakes with the greatest ratio of swept area to weight in 1937 , if my memory serves. There is something delicate about the rear end/differential , but that taxes my memory into meltdown. When you get to look at it , you will see one of the most attractive instrument panels of the period. I fell in love with '37 Cads back in the '50s , I wish I still had one. Thank you for the wonderful happy picture ! - Carl
  15. 1913 Buick model 25

    Hi Simon! By all means introduce yourself on the Buick forums , particularly Pre-War. The Buick ladies and gentlemen are the most numerous , and most active on AACA. You will be in the best of hands with them. A few never venture out of the Buick forums at all , some seldom. It it is an all too frequent sad reminder as another one of our treasured friends leaves us. Fortunate are those who get to enjoy their toys up to that point. I myself am making plans to do exactly that. It is always a good idea when looking for the type of advice you are seeking , to include some of your background, experience with and ownership of any old cars. Welcome to AACA forums ! I hope you agree on a price , and then stay on with us here ! - Carl
  16. Hey John : I am curious about real estate prices in the Grants Pass - Medford area. Are they going up quite a bit as they are in W. WA ? Some time ago I did some driving around that region checking prices. Very attractive , and even some large outbuildings. GREAT part of the Great Northwest. Winter holds off a while longer , and lingers less. Wide open backroads , well suited for fast , slow , or intermediate cruising velocities. Fantastic and incredibly varied destinations about a BEAUTIFUL half a day's drive from you. What are they asking for the pictured house ? Too bad they yanked the garage. - Carl
  17. HI Rod ! It is very easy for a lot of us (many such as myself significantly older than you) to understand your responsible estate planning. I think you are in a very good place to do some of your research, by being here. I , for one , got the point of your posting right out of the gate. It is a totally legitimate question. It applies to the original car , and that is what we in AACA are about. It would be a legitimate question as it stands. Sure , in 2018 we all understand what might have been for a car which began its mods when you were a toddler. But you had absolutely nothing to do with that twist of fate. No one should take it out on you. Many of us have varied automotive interests , and many of us like hot , and even rat , rods too. I really like your Stude. Obviously you sure do , you bought it that way and won't sell it. Where in Washington State are you ? Do you know Sonny Wisner and his Studillac? Welcome to AACA ! I am far from alone in being pleased that you joined in ! Since you just got here , I will post a couple pics of Sonny , he is the guy on the left behind the Studillac , and his famous Studillac. Cad 500 , bored .050 to 514. The Webers are DCOE 45s. And as you see , that is real gold plating. - Carl
  18. New guy, old car

    Hey Pete : are you a welder and have an oxygen tank on hand ? If not , have a friend bring one. Make a nozzle with some small , easily bendable metal tubing. Get a few of those little red plastic tubes and do some flammability tests. After studying the enhanced burning from the oxygen feed , shove some kindling (something like kerosene soaked cardboard - try burning this also with the oxygen.) in after the the plastic tube , feed oxygen slowly until everything is burned up. This should be a whole lot easier than fishing , even more so than yanking the head. A lot more fun , too ! It'll bring out the seven year old in you ! Sound like a plan ? - Carl
  19. 32 Cadillac V12 Exhaust Manifolds needed

    Hi Alex ! There are guys who can do a repair. I had a blacksmith friend , now passed on , who told me cast iron rod was becoming somewhat difficult to find. That is what he used and recommended. I think good pics of the problem area , posted in General , or Technical would be productive. Also in your CLC directory , you will find Steve Nannini in Arizona who has high quality parts for V16s , including ex. manifolds cast from original patterns. Certainly worth a call. Dick Shappy in Rhode Island might be able to help you also. Ted Raines in California may be the authority on V12 Cadillacs. Ted was a Past President who judged my original unrestored 1924 Cadillac at the 1994 CLC Grand National. Evidently the comprehensive and obvious repair to my R.H. ex. manifold (seen here towards the rear of the horizontal run - the entire manifold snapped long before I got the car 30 years ago , perhaps due to excess load from failed exhaust system hangers) , was not deemed overwhelmingly serious. The then 70 year old Cad won the difficult and prestigious, no longer judged , Past Presidents Best Original - Early. Perhaps the original top and headliner helped overcome not only this flaw , but also the ancient re paint. At least it was done in original colors. Please let us know how you resolve this issue. - Carl
  20. 1938 plymouth coupe

    As another old guy who loves driving very old cars , I immensely appreciate what Doug has done. As he says , he has done this to enhance SAFETY. This has not changed the experience of driving a period correct automobile, in a period correct fashion. The ONLY thing I would change would be to find some period compatible air cleaner. ANYTHING which looks the part. Doug states that he has prepared this beautiful coupe to drive ANYWHERE ! From the obvious attention he has given to this capability , ANYWHERE is a big deal. A VERY BIG DEAL ! Extremely well-done. Best of luck with the sale , Doug ! - Carl
  21. I'll call Headquarters tomorrow

    Ugh ! John , I never thought of the cumulative cost of wireless connectivity. I am at the point where 10 years of billing would add up to another very nice car. Or two ! My doctors reassure me that at this point , probably a generation older than you , I am far better off not buying any more cars. Now THAT is a relief ! 😏 - Carl
  22. 32 Cadillac V12 Exhaust Manifolds needed

    Alex , are you a member of CLC ? - CC
  23. 1937 Buick Special - Opinions re. condition

    Funny thing , Suchan , I have the same appreciation for the '38 - '40 60 special over the '41. My first drivable car was a '39 60 S. No sidemounts. $100 back in 1960 or '61. Moved out pretty well , very good brakes. Comfortable everything. - Carl
  24. TESLA

    SIXTEEN. LIFTOFF WAS PERFECT ! By the time I finish thumb tapping the good news , the Zero-Niner will have exceeded escape velocity. That Pope Hartford roadster has just become the fastest roadster ever , the obvious advantage of the Tesla notwithstanding. MAN ! That's a whole bunch of energy ! MULTIPLE TOTAL EARTH ENERGY OUTPUT YEARS AT PRESENT RATE OF CONSUMPTION. We gotta budget the energy for the trip , that's just the physics of it. Lucky we don't have to worry about carrying fuel. We have a Whizbang-Yeehaw propulsion system. It uses Super Dipper Dooper Doo as the propellant. GREAT STUFF !! And since the payload is destined for a temporary exhibit at the host"s museum , we are sending it unoccupied. That will also save the increased fuel necessities for passengers , fodder , and life support. Whew ! Wonder how much more energy THAT would require ? Good thing we are doing the "Doo" thing. But physics is still physics. That's right. Sixteen. Uh , but not Total Earth Energy Output Years. Ummmmmm , not exactly. Sixteen , all right. But sixteen KILO Total Earth Energy Output Years at presen rate of consumption. Sixteen Thousand Total Earth Energy Years at present rate of consumption ! That is what it would take to send a 3000 pound car , Brass , Electric , Antique or otherwise on a round trip to a nearby star and return with a duration of 100 years. Disregarding the energy needed for propellant. Let me me just post this now. It takes me some time to arthritic thumb tap away at this thing. But I really must come back and discuss the source. He knew what he was talking about , and that is what he said. I also remember the energy he said would be needed to allow radio communication. 150,000 megawatts. But I have no details. Omni , or directional ? If directional , was he compensating for beam scatter ? I know we have some very competent radio folk here. But for our payload : 16,000 TEEOY at present rate of consumption. Them aliens ain't here , and they ain't gonna be here ! And all THIS from a guy who has seen 2 UFOs. Changed my life. That is , until I was able to "I" the "U". No , they were not Bob's new Tesla either. Thanks for posting , brother ! Brought back an interesting , now , Antique Car story ! - Carl