C Carl

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C Carl last won the day on April 10 2016

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About C Carl

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  1. Please also see "Early '20s Overland eng. & trans. - FREE" , under "Kaiser , Frazer , Darrin , Henry J , Willys" below. Also "1915 Model 25 Maxwell" , under "Maxwell" below. This is for 4 free Maxwell engines. The '15 has trans , on stand. There are other engines , such as this '31 Chev , i would think that if the right guy has a trailer within a couple hundred miles or so , this would be a worthwhile day trip. Make yourself a very good deal on the '30 Buick coupe also. As long as you will be there , try to sweet talk Mike into giving you the complete '28 Graham Paige eng and trans on stand. Along with you guys , Mike and I want to see these parts saved. That is the motivation , and upcoming sale of the family home is the time element. Mike does not want to part out. He works full time , and is making the effort to save everything. Buy the house and garage and outbuildings ! Keep all the old iron for free ! Just about 1/2 serious ! But , "Nothing ventured ............... " ! - Carl. 408-721-8261
  2. Must be off property which must be prepared for sale soon. Hey ! Anyone in the market for a house and outbuildings on 2 acres ? Enumclaw , WA. Close to Mt. Rainer with view , but topologically immune from eruption flows. Enjoy watching the drama to come someday from a safe vantage point ! Make a deal now , and keep ALL the engines. I'll bet they would throw in the '30 Buick coupe too ! I am just the nearest AACA member who is able to help save these parts. It is O.K. to call me too if you like. - Carl 408-621-8261
  3. Tired last night. Thought I had cued up the pics. Stand included. Sorry. -Carl
  4. Yes Greg , I just got off a long phone call with Mike. There is a time and storage issue , therefore free. I have just been helping , and have found homes for quite a few of the engines from Mike's father's collection. Dad died around 30 years ago , the big money engines out of around 125 have been sold. Mike and I are just in it to hopefully save these rare parts. It has been interesting to have seen what some of these old engines bring. The Cadillac engines , 1916 , 1920-'21 , 1926 , and 1932 found happy homes without having to twist arms or give away. We are surprised that there is no interest in the 1928 Graham-Paige complete w/ starter , gen. water pump , distributor , carb. , and trans , all on a well built stand. Not one inquiry. There once was a time ........... Sigh ! - Carl
  5. On stand. Not frozen up. Located near Tacoma , WA. Call Mike 352-212-8355. Delivery early June WA , OR , CA along I-5 corridor possible for reasonable fee.
  6. Located near Tacoma , WA. Does turn , but with some effort. 2 other 1920s Maxwell , and a 1919 , apart but looks OK. Come take all 4. Delivery in WA , OR , CA along I-5 corridor possible early June for reasonable fee. Call Mike. 253-212-8355
  7. Located near Tacoma , WA. Turns freely. Can deliver WA , OR , CA along I-5 corridor early June for reasonable fee. Call Mike 253-212-8355
  8. Located near Tacoma , WA. 1916 Saxon , 1924 Dort Lycoming "K" , 2 other similar Lycomings. Call Mike. 253-212-8355 All but Saxon going to scrap next week.
  9. You state : "As far as I know , this is a 1 of 6 car .................... " Just what evidence do you have ? I agree that every trivial and not so trivial aspect of old cars is subject to discussion. How fortunate we are to have this modern format to engage in any related conversation. I am sure most of us in your position , operating on a good lead would like confirmation. But Dave's question was asked early on , and the answer you give to this , could be the answer to your question ! Your LaSalle is so beautiful that it is magnificent no matter where it carries its spare tire(s). Yes , how do you know what you suspect ? - Carl
  10. Do you have any of the old AACA guys living near you ? I thought Bernie Jacobsen was not far from you ? It sounds like you could use an old helping hand at this point. It must be frustrating at times. From being told it was "ready to drive and enjoy" to have to do so much work. Obviously it is more of a project than you would have liked. But do it right. Stick with it , and the knowledge and pride in a job well done will , in the end be well worth the effort. You have many driving seasons ahead of you. Once you know that engine well , and have got everything right , you may even look back at your success , glad to have it work out as it has. I would think that at least 1/2 of us found ourselves in deeper water than we might have wished. I guess whether you swim or sink separates the car guys from the cow girls. Just don't take any short cuts. With putting something so old back on the road you ALWAYS have to start by dismantling to a certain level. You generally find some things better , and some things worse than expected. We all hope your mains are better , and will serve you well. Take your oil pump apart. It is one of the easiest things to do. Tolerances must be very close there , and it is a rather low pressure , low volume pump. Not much margin for slop. Oh , and those cow girls. Nothing wrong with them. I have one of 'em myself. I hope I am not being insensitive and politically incorrect , but I am glad Sandy is not a car guy. - Carl
  11. Measure all rod brgs. and throws at several points with high quality digital inside and outside mic's/calipers. Purchase high quality ones , and they will serve you well over the coming decades. Remove the main brg. caps and examine closely. Plastigage these at a couple points , maybe 90 to 120 degrees apart at the same time. Report findings back to us. That is unless the shop which looked at the brgs. says they must be replaced. If that is what you must do , make sure to balance everything to play it safe. - Carl
  12. Oh yeah ! Since it is true confessions time again , I stood up into my passenger side. Luckily just cut at a shallow angle into my forehead. Quite a bit of blood , though. You can see a piece of the former wing on the floor. I wonder what plastic to use. Lexan (polycarbonate) ? I now believe the glass is just for show. An impact at speed could be horrible. It will be far easier to plasticize the wings than it was to replace the windshields. The gypsy curtains do a better job of reducing buffeting in any case. - Carl
  13. Where exactly in CA ? I must drive through there in a month or so. Maybe it will be on or near my way. As with most people , I have family and friends in that huge country also. Along with myself , some of them enjoy meeting people very much. - Carl
  14. This is non-negotiable. From what I see , re-using these bearings is a definite maybe. I have seen worse bearings come out of running engines , but they did not go back in. But you MUST see if the clearances are still COMFORTABLY within spec. If so , and no out of round problems , there may be quite a bit of life left , under certain conditions. Go easy as practical on the old engine. Avoid high BMEP , (Brake Mean Effective Pressure , call it torque if you like. This is a measure of combustion piston load) , and high manifold pressure. Keep your rev's down within reason. These old cars are most fun slowly going nowhere in particular , or anywhere you can enjoy 25 - 35 mph. Above that , the flat crank vibration begins. In the case of your engine , that puts extra load on the center main bearing. What is the existing clearance clearance HERE , where all things equal , the most wear will be present ? Use conventional multi-viscosity detergent oil for the first 4000 miles + on the recently honed cyl walls , then change to the very finest synthetic oil in a multi-viscosity suited for your clearances yet to be measured/plastigaged. Keep engine temps low. Many ancient local Sunday drive/parade cars get treated to new radiators before seeing long distance tour service. Here you see how cool the new radiator kept my '27. Temp up in the high 90s , strong headwind , later afternoon , speed 25. This is about as hot as it got. At one point climbing a steep winding grade , my backup mechanical temp gauge read 175. It might be a very good idea to have your machinist friend make a new oil pump housing , and put in a full-flow oil filter. A large area 20 - 30 micron medium , and change with frequent oil changes. Maybe 500 miles , 1000 , 2000 , and of course the synthetic change at 4000 + miles. The full-flow filter is relatively easy to install on these cars , shown here is my '24. Your present oil pump housing is identical to what was replaced on my car. Particularly if you are able to use the existing bearings , a substantial oil cooler should be put inline also. Incorporate an easy priming fixture here , too. As far as you have taken your engine down , most of your internals will be clean. At your first annual oil change of synthetic to synthetic , get an oil analysis to establish a baseline. Do so every year to monitor engine wear. Please allow low me to quote Frank again : "MEASURE EVERYTHING , NO MATTER WHAT YOU HAVE NOT DECIDED ON YET." (Emphasis mine). And please report back to your helpful forum friends here. We all admire your young "can do" attitude. Way back when we were your age , there was no internet. Learning came more slowly. You are acquiring knowledge and experience very quickly. When you are our age , it is possible you will know more than today's old folk do. Just keep asking , and stay hands on. The more you do , the more you will be able to teach the young'uns , 20 , 30 , 40 , or 50 + years from now ! - Carl
  15. NudeAutoMall ? What is a Nude Auto ? - Carl