midman

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About midman

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  • Birthday 03/01/1960

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  • Location:
    Carlisle, Pennsylvania

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  1. Winds wiped out any money I made this year and then some. The forecast was for 5 to 10 MPH overnight. I woke up to howling winds I’ll bet gusting over 25, and my heavily weighted canopy blew into my neighbors van putting a dent in his door and trashing the canopy frame. Sigh......
  2. We are bringing some brand new engineered oil filter adapters for the L-4 and E-1/2 filters. These adapters look to be well engineered and manufactured. We believe the L-4 fits some Pierce Arrows, and the E-1/2 fits Studebaker and others.. Also some new Packard hubcap reproductions, and some other Packard items.. All of these items from a New York estate. We will also have some NOS 1939 Buick parts and some 1931 and 1939 Buick OEM parts. Finally we will have a group of early automotive literature and some original and limited edition automotive art work. Green field GCA17
  3. midman

    Woodgraining kits - any feedback?

    I really liked their kit. Just one word - PRACTICE- Rolling the grain is definitely a learned art, but after a few tries I got the hang of it. Everything else is basic prep and paint. Good luck.
  4. midman

    Hawkeye Hawskinson Article

    That is a beautiful area. I got some hard to find Buick parts indirectly from the estate. I’m sorry I never met the man, I’m told he was quite the character.
  5. midman

    Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    Well I’ve decided to do two things this weekend. Take the loop out of the copper fuel line and add a switched fuel pump. The pump is mostly for starting the car after it sits more than a couple of weeks but it might help with the vapor lock too if I notice it. I’ll only run the pump at initial start for the most part. I hate grinding away when first starting. i had already blocked off the exhaust heat exchanger. I’ll report back. Chuck
  6. Lozrocks the fuel line is copper and definitely has a loop in it. I’ll look into your suggestion, it makes sense. Chuck
  7. midman

    Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    The engine is really starting to run well as she starts to break in. The timing and carb are good now though I hate that Marvel leak at shut down. I am getting vapor lock during my last two break in runs though. It’s hot out here but not crazy hot. I think the 1932’s had a shield to help with this so I might fabricate one. Any other ideas out there other than shielding or wrapping the fuel line. Other than that she’s coming along Chuck
  8. midman

    Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    Rebuilt the Marvel........again. The venturi are good. Tweeked the timing a little more. It’s running better. Still have to choke it slightly under load, but better. I’m still chasing a vacuum leak I think but I can run it up and down the road. I’ll check the plugs in the next couple of days and see how they look. Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll let you know when I figure it out.
  9. midman

    Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    “I won't offer you candy from a windowless van but perhaps I can entice you to the dark side. “ Yea, I’ve been thinking about that.
  10. midman

    Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    So the car is running but I am struggling to get a good idle and under load I need to choke the engine to keep from backfiring through the carb. I double checked my timing, valve adjustment, and tried setting the carb. I can make it worse but I can’t make it better. As soon as I think I have a good idle it starts stumbling and wandering again. I’m done today but I’m thinking of two areas to check. 1. A vacuum leak on the intake side. 2. My distributor shaft has some play in it so I’m going to try to get to the bottom of that though I don’t know that it could be causing my issue. I was having this problem with the car before I rebuilt it so it is frustrating, but at least I don’t have the rod knock any more. Any other thought or ideas out there?
  11. midman

    Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    It’s alive!!!!!! The filter in Bob’s housing is a NAPA 1061, threads right on, the Baldwin replacement is a B6, same thread size, will not screw on. Couldn’t figure out why so I’ll just keep buying 1061 filters. Anyway, finished timing, cold adjusting the valves, 12 guards of oil, and coolant, preoiled the top end, filled the fuel bowl and carb with gas, cranked it a few times then switched on the ignition. Small shot of starting fluid and boom she started right up! I was suprised that there was zero smoke out of the exhaust at start up. Have a small oil leak at that darn filter housing and a couple small exhaust leaks but oil pressure is great, no fuel or coolant leaks. Thought I had my camera on video for the start up but I still had it on camera. Anyway, have to fix the few minor things, put the rest of the car back together and start driving it to break it in. Hallealuah! Chuck
  12. midman

    1931 Buick 90 Temperature Gage worth

    I’ve seen the complete gauge set for sale occasionally, usually around $250 for used unrestored for the the whole thing. I’ve never seen a restored gauge for sale. Chuck
  13. midman

    1931 roadster 94 series steering gear

    I did mine with a modern lip seal a few months ago. I might still have the part number but I did what has been suggested and ordered it from measurements. I’ll check for the number when I get home on Monday. Chuck
  14. midman

    1923 Buick 54 roadster Dallas TX craigslist

    The guy who turned down 250k, had 230k in the trunk.
  15. midman

    Rebuiding a 1931 90 Series Engine

    Finally had a chance to start hanging everything back on the engine. It might be ready to fire up next week. Got the manifolds, steering box, fuel pump, generator, water pump and distributor installed, along with the starter and starter pedal, steering wheel and light switch. I'm having a problem with the filter housing I bought from Bob's way back. I wrote down the filter number (but stupidly tossed the original filter), but the replacement filter I bought does not thread on though it crossed from the Wix number that was in the housing originally. It is definitely 13/16-16 and that is what the new filter is but it does not thread on. I have another 13/16 adapter for a tractor and the filter threads right on that one. Maybe I wrote the original number down wrong. I had #5106. Can anyone verify that? I'll call Bob's tomorrow and see if they'll tell me. The one on the right is the one from Bob's housing. Anyway, other than that things are coming along.