Kaber

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About Kaber

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/04/1965
  1. I'm trying full to Top method. So far I know you have to clamp both ends of the hose from the Rad to the bottle. Kaber
  2. Pretty straightforward, get a Bendix M/C for a 67 w/ drum brakes. Plumb the front cup to the front brakes and the rear to the rear. No need for prop valve since 4 wheel drum. I did it an upgraded to all new lines and hoses at the same time. You brake lamp switch is already on the pedal so you are good to go. Kaber
  3. But this cost me nothing and I didn't have to chase parts. The switch is a 64 Riviera. Kaber
  4. That is correct, and other than the tight working area it was pretty straightforward.
  5. Kaber again, last weekend I replaced the Radiator in my Son's 63. I wanted to switch to a closed system so I hit the local salvage yard. After much looking I found a suitable bottle, in a Japanese SUV of some sort. Mounted it up and plumbed it. Still kinda working out the bugs but I think it will work ok! Kaber out!
  6. Show on the Fourth!
  7. Thanks Rivman! Was going to edit text and pics but got thrown off! Sorry guys, This might work better!
  8. Hey guys! This weekend I finally bypassed our problematic hydraulic brake light switch. I have had to replace our hydraulic switch 3 times, the last one with a lo pressure one. Still about every 6 months the brake pedal requires much effort to get the lamps to come on. I replaced the sockets and grounded them separately, still no bueno! So I ordered a switch for a 64 Riviera from Rock Auto. I looked at the pedal assy and designed in CAD a bracket to mount the switch to the existing brake pedal mounting structure. Pretty simple bracket, one 90 degree bend in a piece of approx .080" thick sheet metal and (2) 1/4-20 PEM nuts. The hard part was drilling the holes for the bracket to mount, the vintage steel is tough!!! I used a pneumatic 90 degree drill and about 3 different sized bits to make the 3/8" holes (I wanted some adjustment in the mounting screws. I attached it with (2) 1/4-20 button head cap screws & lock washers. The switch then mounted in the folded part and is retained with the 2 nuts that were supplied with the switch. It is directly in line with the lever arm of the brake pedal. I then cut off my factory terminal in the engine compartment and ran 2 wires thru a grommet in the fire wall (same 90 degree drill for that hole). I crimped on 2 blade connectors to the wires in the interior and plugged in the switch. I strain relieved them in an adel clamp attached to one of the mounting bolts. It seems to function as expected and I think my son will finally have reliable brake lamps! Part 2 I finally was able to use the extra console piece I bought from Ed. I had a hole machined in to accept the tach in the suggested location. Sadly when test fitting the tach, I dropped it and had to send it out for repairs to Bob's Speedometer service. I mounted it in the tach and exchanged the top plate of the console. It looks like it grew there! Everything is wired up and working as expected! Thought you guys might be interested , especially in the brake lamp switch! Thanks, Kaber
  9. Thank you for all the replies! I , like most here, went with the recore (Using the more efficient core). Total was $375 and I knew it would fit! Again thank you for all the replies! This is a great Resource to the Riviera community!! Kaber
  10. Hey Guys, Its Kaber, I've been away from The Riv world for a while. My son was studying in England and I had my own cars to mess with. My computer at work lost the ability to get on this sight for some reason as well?!? I fear my Son's 63 401 Riv may need a replacement radiator. His is green and seepy and it kinda overheated last year. So what have you guys found for replacements? I'm gonna replace the trans cooler lines at the same time with some from Inline Tube. Any help would be great. I was thinking OPGI or a recore. I haven't had much luck with recore's in the past. Thanks! Kaber
  11. Looks very nice! Great Job.
  12. My Kid's 63 has the gray satin inserts and the Cat head center caps, I wanted to paint the wheels black originally but have grown to appreciate the gray! My Son loves the Wildcat centercaps! You can't go wrong with the road wheels no matter what color they are on these cars!
  13. I bought a full front end kit, for my sons 63, from PST for under $500. No box/center link but everything else, including inner tie rod ends. Its been in service 3 years now with no complaints. It wasn't listed in their paper catalog, only on line.
  14. I have two old cars myself. My son owns the Riviera. In the summer, I park my daily driver on Friday night and drive my old cars all weekend every weekend, weather permitting. They get wet, but I do try to limit their ex poser to the elements. I used to drive them much less than 1000 miles a year each. Now I find my self driving each of them well over 3000 miles each summer. It beats the hell out of watching them sit in the garage! As for the Riv, my son is a busy guy, going to college and working internships in the summer. He doesn't get a chance to drive the Riv as often as he would like. I feel sorry for it sometimes......