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About msdminc

  • Rank
    '65 Riviera Caretaker
  • Birthday 05/11/1959

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    North Eastern Kansas


  • Biography
    Became a proud owner of a 1965 Buick Riviera in Mid 2013 and a 1963 Ford Falcon Sprint in Mid 2014.

    Started working for General Motors when I was 18, working at several GM Assembly plants over 18 years in engineering capacities. Engineering Graduate of GMI - 1982.

    After that I worked as an Executive in the Information Technology within the HiTech, Manufacturing, Medical and Government Industries.

    Did all that for 32 years and then started a small manufacturing company in 2009 - Main Street Dream Makers LLC, we manufacture TelePrompTers for Musicians, The Wolfgang TELEMONITOR. I also run a small Audio Recording Studio. Our primary customers are baby boomers.

    Now working on starting a new classic car organization with its mission of saving old Detroit Iron. We affectionately call it D.I.R.T. - Detroit Iron Rescue Team.

    Married to a beautiful car girl, three grown children

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  1. Drew, Carbking only takes calls a few days a week, but the kit will be exactly what you need, and they know their carburetors. It is definitely worth the wait. I never found another source when I rebuilt mine a few years ago. Rock On gord
  2. msdminc

    64 Front shocks?

    Winston, I got mine from AutoAtlanta, great service, quick delivery, and they know Rivieras. This is the link to their site,, They cater to Porche folks and they are also all over 1st gen Rivieras too, as I understand. I believe dr914 is from AutoAtlanta. Rock on gord
  3. Kent, I had some pretty deep scratches on my 63 Falcon windshield that polished out pretty good. I used a kit I got from TechnologyLK ( This is the link to a YouTube for the stuff I used - Rock On gord
  4. msdminc

    Pinging when floored

    Winston, Rodney is from Australia. When I was there in May of this year, 95 Octane was the low grade. I saw 98 all over the place and even in the 100's at some places. Rock On gord
  5. Mike just looked it up in my files. Mine are 225/75-15's and they don't rub. They are TOYO tires and at that time they were $239 plus shipping each. Give DB a call to see if they can provide the triple stripe on the 225/75, they are very good to deal with. ADDED: Incidentally I ordered them in 2013-4 and I just looked in the catalog I got dated 2013-2014 and it shows they were for 235/75-15's. I called them to order and we worked out the 225 change. Rock On gord
  6. Mike they are in the Cadillac section in the DB Catalog. Rock On gord
  7. Mike, I have not used the Coker version but I do have the Diamond Back Radial version and they look good and ride great. They will not pass muster at a BCA or AACA judged event. Not sure if the 68's were Radial or Bias Ply. I do know that Radials were offere d as an option by some US car makers around that time. Below is a close up of the tire, and you can see in the profile picture what they look like in the sun. Rock On gord
  8. All, A lot of times component suppliers like Carter, Rochester, Guide, Harrison, Packard Electric or any of the others would have to produce their components months in advance of when they would be put into the vehicle during the final assembly process. The car division (Buick in this case) made a decision to do a dual quad set up for 1964. That decision was done well in advance, maybe 9-12 months before they would actually need the parts. They would most likely get some pre-productions ones that they could use to test on the engine and then in the pre-production cars. This would allow Buick to determine what the Torque and Horsepower results would occur. The GM Proving Grounds or other testing facilities would do this evaluation and these tests are all done a long time before the production would start. The pre-production cars would never be sold. As you might imagine the suppliers of components would have to get their act together quite a long time before production. This would mean that carburetors with very early 1963 dates would be easily explained on 1964 production cars, since 1964 vehicle production could start in the summer of 1963 with Pilot and early production saleable cars. Additionally, the car divisions would provide the suppliers production forecasts as early as they could of the various components they would need for production. In the 1960s we didn't have the Just-In-Time or Kanban theories being used to much extent in domestic auto plants. That means that Carter could have taken the production forecast and stock piled the parts and ship to the Motor Plant when they got orders. This projected order would also impact the unit cost Buick would have to pay for the components. With concept that lowest cost is preferred, therefore many decisions in the supply chain would have been made to keep the cost as low as possible. That would impact order sizes and production batch size at the component supplier. Storage of completed product and cost of inventory would also be considered. Warehouse storage was cheap in those days. Component suppliers like Carter would also have to let their suppliers know what, when and how many parts they would need so this same thing propagates through the entire supply chain. In today's environment, with JIT and Kanban, which basically started in Japan in the 1950's but didn't really take on in the US until the 1980's, the idea is not to get too many parts built and in the system until is was really needed. They don't want to have situations where scrap is built or campaigns are required to fix components in the system, so make the parts as close to when you are going to use the is best. Not so before around 1980. I worked for GM as an engineer and one of it subsidiaries for over 30 years. So I have seen some of this in real time. I hope this helps clarify the date codes and disparity between the code on the carb and its use. Rock On gord
  9. msdminc

    Way to go Gordon!

    Winston, I am not 100% sure as I have never seen it. But the way it was described, if I recall correctly, it appears there is some sort of roll pin or set screw on the oil pump that backs out and scores the bottom of the crank, and eventually leads to catastrophic failure. Like I said I never had heard about it before, and I eventually will take the oil pan off to see what I see. Maybe someone who was at the "Tech Talk" at The Entrance ROA Meet can chime in with more detail. Rock On gord
  10. msdminc

    Way to go Gordon!

    Winston, it was a truly a fantastic voyage, and thank you for the kudos. Susan and I had a great time. Their ROA Meet centered around driving their Rivieras - two quite long cruises to car museums and then to lunch destinations, and the Show for the Meet was a short drive to a park right on the waters edge. The Right Drive conversions were all done so exceptionally that especially from the passenger compartment you couldn't tell it was a conversion. Many of them were Left Drive. Driving in one of them on a "county two-lane" or a city street, whether from the drivers seat or the passenger seat is quite exhilarating. In the passenger seat the trucks and cars seem to be in a head on collision with you until the very last second. I squirmed quite a bit for the first couple days I was there that is more than usual (I am not a good passenger on streets in the US, you can ask my wife, but there it was an uncomfortable feeling on steroids). In the drivers seat on a crowned county road, I had to basically keep the drivers side tires almost in the ditch to make sure the other side of the car was also in the correct lane. With the width of these cars and the length of the hood it is much different to maintain the lane. The article in the review is abridged quite a bit (the original article was about 7500 words and the one in the review was around 1500), if anyone out there would like the full article, I attached the pdf to this posting, just below my name below it is called Two Americans Experiences v FINAL pdf.pdf. You should be able to click it and it will download to your PC. If you have problems accessing it, I will send the pdf of the original article via email to you. Send me a PM with your email address and I will send it to you. Rock On gord Two Americans Experiences v FINAL pdf.pdf
  11. msdminc

    Speakers and Radio

    Jonahboo, I believe the one I got used 24V DC, so I used a 12V to 24V DC converter/transformer to step it up from the 12V I had in the car to the necessary 24V the amp takes. I had a converter hanging around so I used it. This is similar to what I used. If you get something similar to this, they come with a variety power adapters to insert into the back of the amp. Make sure you take the power from the switched side of the vehicle system so it doesn't stay on when parked in your garage. You can also provide 12v from a separate power source, like a portable 12v battery if you like. Alternately you could probably find a 12v Bluetooth Amp and then you don't have to worry about the 12v-24v conversion but you will still need the correct power adapter for the back of the Amp. Incidentally, my setup can be removed from the car or set up in seconds. Rock On gord
  12. msdminc

    Speakers and Radio

    jonahboo, This may be a little late but I used this item discretely mounted Digital Amplifier Mini Bluetooth Stereo Amplifier to drive a dual driver stereo speaker from Classic Care Stereos that fits in the rear seat 6x9 location in my 65. It can receive input from a Bluetooth device like an ipod/iphone for your playlist (that is one way I use it) and it has hard wired inputs that I use for a discretely mounted Satellite Radio input (although it can take input from any line level output). I only get modern sounds from the back as I kept my original 4x10 speaker and original Delco AM Radio in the dash (they both work) for originality. All I had to do is get power to the amp, run speaker wires to the back speaker, set up the satellite radio and voila. Just a thought. Rock On gord
  13. They are pricey, but they provide a great ride and bolt right in. Rock On gord
  14. Frank, when I got my 65 with a 401 cid engine and a Rochester 4GC carb similar to yours - I was getting about 6 mpg. I cleaned and rebuilt the Rochester, with a kit I got from THE CARBURETOR SHOP, 204 EAST 15TH STREET, ELDON, MISSOURI 65026, click HERE for their website. It solved a vacuum leak I had that was impacting performance, as well as the accelerator pump leak, and my mileage went to 12+ mpg. Changing the wires and plugs improved fuel economy to regularly get over 14 mpg. The cleaning will do wonders. Rock On gord
  15. In my '65 I had a similar issue with controlling the mirror and the problem was on the actuator/joy stick end. One of the three wires that attached to the actuator was floating. I put the cable end where it should be. Then to make sure it didn't move as much, I put a zip tie to hold the three cable sheaths together. Works as intended. I have attached a picture that I took at the time, kind of blurry but may give you the gist of what was done. Rock On gord