Cowtown Commander

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About Cowtown Commander

  1. I was sorting some old photos yesterday and ran across a photo I took at Studebaker International in May of 2016 at the South Bend location and at that time they had a headliner marked for a 38 President in an opened clear plastic bag for for $95. Since there is no difference between the Commander and President bodies from the firewall back it would work on a Commander but the key would be if was for a 4 door and if the 38 & 39 interchange (since they have the same body she'll I would guess that they do) might be worth a phone call to South Bend. Ernie is at most of the national meets and is a super nice guy. I can send picture to you if I had your e-mail. PM me and I'll send it.
  2. I got the build sheet for my 1938 Coupe from the museum and there is not much information on it - especially regarding interior. I ordered my head liner and side panels fron Rene at Southeast Studebaker. Excellent quality, and the windlace and windlace like piece that joins the side panels to the headliner were exceptional. i see that there are two vendors that advertise headliners on e-bay for $229.99 one in Keller TX and one in CA. They claim to have them in stock but bet they do some sort of quick production. I have talked to the folks in Keller at a local car show and they seem like nice folks but don't know anything about their work. Rene's quality was outstanding and pricing was not all that much more than the e-Bayers but I exspect he will have a longer lead time. I don't know how much different the 4 door headliner is from the coupe - I exspect that it longer but the head liner does not go around the rear window in the Coupe - there is a mohair covered fiber board that goes around the window and buts up to the headliner. That butt joint is covered by the windlce like material. I'd ask lots of questions to see what all you are getting.
  3. Last year I when I was in South Bend we were able to get a private tour of building 84. They were pulling up the wood floors and sellling the wood ( except 3rd floor which had high lead levels ). They indicated that when this wood was installed when the plant was built in the mid twenties it was obtained from extensive forest interests that Studebaker owned in upper Michigan.
  4. I will try and get the latch pulled today or tomorrow and call for your shipping address. We will handle the finances once you've got the part and confirm it is what you needed.
  5. Your part number is 265166 and they are available NOS from a number of vendors. STudebaker International has them for $70. It is the same latch as the right front and I'm a bit surprised that you need a rear as it is usually the more used fronts that go bad. The spring is what usually breaks and replacement springs are available but it is a time consuming job to take it all apart to replace the spring. If a used one would suffice let me know as I have some from cars I've parted out. It would probably take me a few days to dig it out and get it ready for shipment - $20 contribution to Antique Club and freight if you want to go used. This latch was used till 1949 on cars and maybe later on trucks so you might find one locally if someone has some parts cars or has parted some out.
  6. I'd talk to Jerry Kurtz - he can probably get you the transmission and rear end "yokes" you need. I know Studebaker International had the transmission piece a couple of years ago. I think I have a drive shaft from a 38 with standard trans. But shipping might be nearly as much as having one made.
  7. My 38 Coupe came had an after market seat cover on the drivers side and the passenger cover and bottom cover were in the box with other spares. The drivers side cover was discarded when the upholstery was redone but I believe the other two pieces are in the spare parts. It was a light denim material - your welcome to them if you pay the postage. I would think the bottom would fit your car and could be used as a pattern if nothing else. i went to the largest upholstery wholesaler in our area, looked at the material and carpet samples and picked out the seat material that came the closest to matching my original and luckily for me it was in a batch of obsolete material that the wholesaler had heavily discounted. I picked out the carpet I wanted and let the upholstery shop buy that as they got a better price than me. Rather than buy a sewing machine have you thought of seeing if you could get a upholstery shop to just make the covers with material you provide?
  8. Think you start by removing the front fenders, take the radiator out and then get a real answer from someone that knows what to do Tom. It would appear that not a lot of effort was expended by the engineering department in regard to serviceability. The good news is they probably have rain-x at Walmart and let's hope that the rain in Corsicana was all you'll see this year.
  9. Taking it to a professional would definitely be a good idea if you are unsure of what to do. However having the necessary parts on hand to make the repairs would be a good idea as you don't want to get it apart and then take weeks to get the parts. One way the emergency brakes could be activated and not release would be if the cable were rusted to the armored housing the encases the cable. On one side of my car the cable was rusted and would not allow the brake to be activated. If you car was parked with the emergency brake activated and the cable rusted to the protective enclosure then the brakes would not release
  10. There are 2 emergency brake springs used on your car both # 176073. You show a picture of one on the drivers side but there should be an identical spring on the passengers side. As for the clutch spring look at the post entitled 39 clutch spring. The last reply which shows the correct placement of the spring. The spring does not attach to the clutch pedal but rather the "outer release shaft" and the rear engine cross member. if you look on your car my guess is you will find that the emergency brake spring is missing. Look at page 348 in the parts book
  11. Gorgeous car -- good luck with the sale
  12. Others are better versed than me but believe this is one of the emergency brake springs. One of the best pictures you'll ever see of the clutch and brake springs has just been posted - go to post "39 clutch pedal spring" perhaps 6 to 8 posts below yours and about 3 replays down is a picture of the proper springs and mounting of the clutch and brake springs --- 1938 and 1939 use the same springs and mounting. Do your brake and clutch pedals still work? If so you know it is not them. If they are not working properly someone has used the wrong spring in a previous repair. Clutch springs are available from Bob K (who is recovering from surgery) Or Stephen Allen. Studebaker International has the brake springs as I recall. if the brake and clutch pedals work normally but your emergency brake doesn't then that's the spring you need to replace. See page 348 and illustration # 1110-22 and 23 for the location of these springs. If you can't find a new one, let me know as I took the springs off my parts car but have no idea which box they are in.
  13. I'm sure I will go out to Pate as it is close by but it has been a long time since I've found much in the way of Studebaker. However one never knows what will come up ---- perhaps a photo op of a well known Louisiana Studebaker enthusiast in front bullet nose body mounted on a 4 wheel "Monster Truck" chassis.
  14. Tom you've done a first class job in getting this car back on the road and running so well. Really enjoyed my ride in Corsicana but it was far too short --- I'm hoping you'll give me a longer ride in South Bend!
  15. Sorry I've been tied up replumbing the house and didn't respond when I first saw your post. I had great difficulty in getting the right springs in the correct spots until Terry Frye sent me some photos. I sent you via e-mail the photo of the clutch spring bottom attachment point which is a hole in the rear engine cross member (illustration # 1501-8 on page 461 of the parts book). Hope that gets you squared away.