Cowtown Commander

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About Cowtown Commander

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  • Birthday 12/31/1948
  1. I'd talk to Jerry Kurtz - he can probably get you the transmission and rear end "yokes" you need. I know Studebaker International had the transmission piece a couple of years ago. I think I have a drive shaft from a 38 with standard trans. But shipping might be nearly as much as having one made.
  2. My 38 Coupe came had an after market seat cover on the drivers side and the passenger cover and bottom cover were in the box with other spares. The drivers side cover was discarded when the upholstery was redone but I believe the other two pieces are in the spare parts. It was a light denim material - your welcome to them if you pay the postage. I would think the bottom would fit your car and could be used as a pattern if nothing else. i went to the largest upholstery wholesaler in our area, looked at the material and carpet samples and picked out the seat material that came the closest to matching my original and luckily for me it was in a batch of obsolete material that the wholesaler had heavily discounted. I picked out the carpet I wanted and let the upholstery shop buy that as they got a better price than me. Rather than buy a sewing machine have you thought of seeing if you could get a upholstery shop to just make the covers with material you provide?
  3. Think you start by removing the front fenders, take the radiator out and then get a real answer from someone that knows what to do Tom. It would appear that not a lot of effort was expended by the engineering department in regard to serviceability. The good news is they probably have rain-x at Walmart and let's hope that the rain in Corsicana was all you'll see this year.
  4. Taking it to a professional would definitely be a good idea if you are unsure of what to do. However having the necessary parts on hand to make the repairs would be a good idea as you don't want to get it apart and then take weeks to get the parts. One way the emergency brakes could be activated and not release would be if the cable were rusted to the armored housing the encases the cable. On one side of my car the cable was rusted and would not allow the brake to be activated. If you car was parked with the emergency brake activated and the cable rusted to the protective enclosure then the brakes would not release
  5. There are 2 emergency brake springs used on your car both # 176073. You show a picture of one on the drivers side but there should be an identical spring on the passengers side. As for the clutch spring look at the post entitled 39 clutch spring. The last reply which shows the correct placement of the spring. The spring does not attach to the clutch pedal but rather the "outer release shaft" and the rear engine cross member. if you look on your car my guess is you will find that the emergency brake spring is missing. Look at page 348 in the parts book
  6. Gorgeous car -- good luck with the sale
  7. Others are better versed than me but believe this is one of the emergency brake springs. One of the best pictures you'll ever see of the clutch and brake springs has just been posted - go to post "39 clutch pedal spring" perhaps 6 to 8 posts below yours and about 3 replays down is a picture of the proper springs and mounting of the clutch and brake springs --- 1938 and 1939 use the same springs and mounting. Do your brake and clutch pedals still work? If so you know it is not them. If they are not working properly someone has used the wrong spring in a previous repair. Clutch springs are available from Bob K (who is recovering from surgery) Or Stephen Allen. Studebaker International has the brake springs as I recall. if the brake and clutch pedals work normally but your emergency brake doesn't then that's the spring you need to replace. See page 348 and illustration # 1110-22 and 23 for the location of these springs. If you can't find a new one, let me know as I took the springs off my parts car but have no idea which box they are in.
  8. I'm sure I will go out to Pate as it is close by but it has been a long time since I've found much in the way of Studebaker. However one never knows what will come up ---- perhaps a photo op of a well known Louisiana Studebaker enthusiast in front bullet nose body mounted on a 4 wheel "Monster Truck" chassis.
  9. Tom you've done a first class job in getting this car back on the road and running so well. Really enjoyed my ride in Corsicana but it was far too short --- I'm hoping you'll give me a longer ride in South Bend!
  10. Sorry I've been tied up replumbing the house and didn't respond when I first saw your post. I had great difficulty in getting the right springs in the correct spots until Terry Frye sent me some photos. I sent you via e-mail the photo of the clutch spring bottom attachment point which is a hole in the rear engine cross member (illustration # 1501-8 on page 461 of the parts book). Hope that gets you squared away.
  11. The parts book has the same illustration number (2117-35D) and drawing for the exterior door handles for both 1938 & 1939 autos. However the 1938 door handles have part number 2675540W while the 1939 door handles are part number 270055W. Does anyone know what the differences are between the two door handles. How do you tell which handle is which and can they be substituted one for another? Thanks
  12. Sent you pictures showing mounting of the filter on the left front of the engine. There are two pipes that connect to the filter, one on the side runs under the water pump then behind the fuel pump and looks like it either fastens to the oil pump or the block right near the oil pump. I'm softy but I can't see from the top and don't have a lift to check from the bottom side. The second line attaches at the bottom of the canister and looks like it attaches to the block somewhere near the oil fill tube. Page 12 of the parts book has a good illustration but doesn't show where the tubes attach to the block. I just noted that page 2 of the parts book show where the side canister pipe attaches to the block and it screws into the block midway between the fuel pump and oil pump - right at a "rib" in the block.
  13. Good to hear from you Bob - Glad that your out of the hospital and on the road to recovery. Take care and best wishes for a speedy recovery!
  14. You've also got the "problem" that your car was positive ground and I've never encountered a 12 volt positive ground. Electricity is something "magic" to me so I I don't know how the polarity difference will effect what your trying to do but it's something you might want to investigate.
  15. In Sept they put the windshield in my 1938 Coupe. It was a struggle for a professional shop who deal with glass installation every day. They did install it from the inside. The 1938 Shop Manual had no information on the installation so if your shop manual has information on windshield installation I would sure get a copy of the manual. The manuals are not that expensive and will help on many other items on the car. The center rubber for the M Series truck has the same cross section as your car. I would guess that yours is shorter so you will have to trim the rubber piece. Watch when you trim it down that you retain the proper spacing of the bolt holes or else you will have to fab a new metal section for the interior.