bikemikey

One thing to consider is a stuck TCC solenoid valve which can cause a rough idle and possibly stall when coming to a stop. From what I understand they are not suppose to kick in until they reach about 45 mph. In fact I'm having trouble with mine on my 89. I got it unstuck the other day by putting it in reverse and then drive , back and forth a few times and then luckily it unstuck. Some people change the fluid and add an additive to get it to release, sometimes that works. Just a thought.

I've used Rock Auto over the years and have had only one issue that I can remember. I like using them when possible. Just my opinion, but when one caliper goes out I usually change out the other side as well. If the failure is due to age, the other caliper is doomed to fail as well. Plus the older caliper piston might have a little drag causing uneven breaking pressure. Just a thought.

So far no current codes it's all history. Next week I will take it out for a road test and see what happens. Thank You for your support.

That makes sense. Thanks

A little update. I went ahead and cleaned the Maf sensor. The code went away but it then came back about after three minutes. So I went ahead and installed a new Maf sensor, the code went away immediately . I drove the car around the block so far so good. Although, I read on the internet that you should disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes so that the commuter can relearn the new sensor. Is that really necessary? Thanks

Okay, I'll check that out. I think I will clean the Maf sensor while I'm at it. Thanks

I should have mention there was also an E034 Maf sensor code in history when I checked it when I got back. What happen was that I was going up a hill and noticed a little roughness. Eventually it cleared out and I got back home. I assumed the trans was acting up but I could be wrong. I noticed there was some corrosion on the positive side of the battery, so I cleaned it, now all the codes are gone. I'm wondering if it is a Maf problem, but why would it throw an E039 code. Both codes where history when I checked it with engine off. Thanks

I forgot to mention it is an 89 Reatta.

About 1500 miles ago I was having trouble with a TCC solenoid. I tried some Trans tune then had the fluid change with another additive. No problems since that fluid change but I'm afraid the problem is back. I think it is time to change out the solenoid. I was wondering , is there a certain speed I can stay under without kicking in the solenoid in case of an emergency. I also looked at the manual but it not too clear on replacement of the solenoid. Looking down at the rear of the transmission there is a bolted pan on the end of the trans. I assume the TCC solenoid is inside there. There is also a trans mount surrounding the pan. To me it looks like you would have to pull the engine to get to the pan. I also read some articles that you can lower the trans. I called a mechanic I know, he said take it to a transmission shop, he did not want any part of it, so I don't know. Appreciate any suggestions . Thanks

I had a similar problem a while back. On a cold engine it would start okay and no red battery light. But on the road, warm engine , the battery light would start going off and on. Eventually it would stay on until the engine cooled down. Thinking it was the alternator I had it rebuilt, same problem. It turned out to be an alternator bent pulley shaft. I changed out the alternator , new belt and tensioner. I have not had any problems since. Hope you find your problem. Mike

Someday I plan to do the swap. It seems like I get about 2 years out of the Magnavox system, then it's toast. Thanks for that info.

Well, it ended up being either the ICM or the coil pack, I replaced both. The car now runs better than it ever did in the past. Both the coil pack and the ICM did not have that many miles on them. I think this hot Texas heat plays havoc on the electronics with this car. Like some of you have said, it pays to carry a spare with you. I'll have to figure out which one is bad, and keep the other for a spare. Thanks everyone.

I'll check my old plugs to see what gap I had on them. I just took one of them out and it looks pretty bad, probably my problem. Thanks

I know this has been hashed out before, but does .045 plug gap sound okay with standard AC plugs and Magnavox ICM. I heard some use .060 with the updated AC Delco coils.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, it's been awhile since I checked those plugs. I'll check them out. Thanks

Thanks Ronnie, I'll give it a try.

My car was running fine, then started running rough on the road. I have a rough idle, mid range on rpms it will clear out, any higher it will start to stumble. I had a MAF code E034, so I cleaned the MAF, IAC, EGR valve, still same problem but no codes. I also unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. From what I understand the O2 sensor does not come into play until closed loop, is that right?, if so, then that probably is not the problem. Please correct me if I'm wrong. The ICM and coil pack is not that old, but we know about them, I really need to make the switch. I also bought some gas before this, thinking maybe there is some water in the tank, I don't use the car that much.I also noticed that when using the EGR over ride, #2 and #3 would lug the engine down, but I could not tell much on #1. They all would click with engine off. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks

When I bought my 89 Reatta it had some vacuum leaks. My car had 120,000 miles on it at that time. The main culprit ended up being the PVC valve grommet. They become hard and brittle with time and mileage and prone to leaking. I would have your mechanic spray some fluid just around the PVC grommet area to test for a leak before changing the intake gasket. Like 2seater said, they are buried and hard to replace, probably often ignored. When I went to replace mine it just crumbled into pieces.

I'm in. Thank You Ronnie

Yes, I've used it before and was glad it was there. Thanks so much.

I just bought an old Honda civic for a run about car. The previous owner had rebuilt the AC system and was working fine until just before I bought the car. Thinking it was low on Freon he added some more Freon. I also added some more Freon, which was wrong . It turned out it was a bad relay and also an over charged condition because we both added Freon to the system. The compressor was also cycling every 5 seconds going down the road. I ended up evacuating some Freon until I got lower readings. The low side now reads 32 psi. and the high side reads 220 psi. The system works fine now and no cycling. Just so you know, I don't know that much about AC systems, so take what I say with a grain of salt. From what I understand most cars run about 35 to 45 psi. on the low side depending on ambient temperature. You could also have some air in the lines or an overcharged condition. Just an opinion, hope it helps.

Mine is an 89, white with red upholstery. . Yeah, good luck on finding a competent mechanic, that's why I try to do most of the work myself when I can. I'm glad things worked out for you.

I'm curious, did you have trouble getting your car aligned. When I changed out my struts as well as other things, I had trouble finding anyone to do the alignment. I ended up taking it to Sears in North Austin, Tx. At first the he didn't want to do it, but he kept trying, then finally he got it. It drives perfect now.

You might check for a cracked PVC hose. If that hose has never been changed with that many miles, it probably is bad anyway. It won't hurt to change out the hose and PVC valve if it had not been changed in a long time.

You might try 5 star engine exchange, Glendale Arizona. I bought a Chevy 350 , 325 hp engine from them. I put about 7500 miles on the engine , so far It's been a great engine. It looks like they do quality work.