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About bikemikey

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  • Birthday 05/14/1946

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  1. bikemikey

    Give a asks for more

    If the impact screwdriver does not work, you might try a small sharp chisel with a small hammer. Create a notch on the side of the screw by tapping counter clockwise on an angle with the chisel. I've taken many stripped screws out that way.
  2. My engine had lifting hooks on the back side. I took them off and it gave me a little more clearance .
  3. bikemikey

    Paint the town red (actually Polo Green)

    Just my opinion, but I would leave the side mirrors the original color. I would also change the color of the rubber molding to match the side mirrors if possible. I like the contrast, it breaks it up a little bit. But that's just my opinion. I'm sure it will be beautiful no matter what you decide.
  4. bikemikey

    "Clashing" Sound when Accelerating

    After thinking about it , the temp gauge on the Reatta probably isn't the best barometer for telling you something is wrong. My gauge can wander all over the place on my 89. Living in Texas, I've seen my gauge go up to 233 degrees on a hot day with the air on and at a stop light. I was thinking more in line with other cars I have own. For example, when my Ford Escort reaches operating temperature it stays put, no matter what, unless something goes wrong. But that is not the case with the Reatta. Sorry about that.
  5. bikemikey

    "Clashing" Sound when Accelerating

    I'd keep an eye on the water temperature gauge, that's usually a good indication if things are not going well. I had one go out on my Ford escort wagon. It would rattle for about a month then one day coming back from the coast of Texas , the temperature started to go up and performance started to bog down at a stop light. Then I heard a big bang, it blew the guts of the converter out the tail pipe, but I was able to get back home. When I bought my Reatta I went ahead and changed out the cat and muffler to be sure of no problems. The car had 120,000 miles on it, probably did not need to do it, but that's just me.
  6. bikemikey


    Good point. As expensive as the Reatta windshield is, you have to be careful what you put on it. Thanks
  7. bikemikey


    I wonder if you could put that clear Treewax on a windshield for added impact protection. Sometimes I use Turtle Wax on mine, seems to help. I don't think I'm hurting it.
  8. bikemikey

    Is there a fuel injector cleaner that really works?

    For what it is worth, I use Techron complete fuel system cleaner about every fourth tank fill up. It seems to give my Ford escort a little more power. My 89 Reatta has new injectors and a new fuel tank, so I started using Sta-Bil 360 to protect the new tank. I might add some Techron later on for the injectors just to keep them clean. Just my opinion , if fuel injectors get really clogged up, they need to get professionally cleaned or replaced.
  9. bikemikey

    Seat covers - 1990

    Those seats look great! I'm curious, are they leather or vinyl?
  10. bikemikey

    Engine oil leak 1990 Reatta

    You might consider running your fingers under the lip of the rear valve cover gasket and especially around the corners. It took me three attempts to get mine to stop leaking with a new gasket.
  11. bikemikey

    1988 reatta engine issue

    I forgot to mention, check all the pulleys with the belt off, make sure they spin freely with no wobble. Your power steering pulley bearing might have froze causing it to smoke.
  12. bikemikey

    1988 reatta engine issue

    It might have been your belt tensioner that failed. Just my guess.
  13. I'm working on my 81 Chevy swb Silverado. I changed out the old 350, ( it came with a 305 ) and changed out the old Turbo 350 with a 700R4. I had trouble installing the drive shaft so I figured it was too long. So I took it to a drive shaft shop with the measurements and he told me it was too short. Come to find out the slip yoke was bad, but he said it would probably work , so we replaced it. Now I'm thinking he was right in the beginning and the shaft is a little bit short. Here are the measurements. The slip yoke is 4" long of which 2 1/4" sticks inside the trans tail housing, that leaves 1 3/4 inches of yoke exposure. The tail shaft sticks out 9/16" past the seal of the tail shaft. If you add 2 1/4" plus 9/16" that gives you 2 13/16" of driveshaft spline engagement. If you subtract 9/16" from 1 3/4" that gives you 1 3/16" of slip yoke play, or lets just say 1 1/4" to be safe. My question is, does this sound safe, I know 1' or 3/4" would be better. The truck is sitting on the ground with no weight in it. Appreciate any opinions. Thanks, Mike
  14. Thanks , I got plenty of that stuff.
  15. RDG, Thank you for that info. I'll do that when I replace this bad one. I'm thinking about doing the switch to that AC Delco ICM , but I might first try that new Wells Duralast from Autozone and see how that holds up. If it doesn't then I'll do the switch. Thanks