Bob H

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About Bob H

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  • Birthday 07/29/1934

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  • Biography
    79 years old and quite active, lifelong automotive and mechanical things interests, serious do-it-yourselfer, recently built a new home. Couldn't find an old collector Buick at the price I wanted so I bought three 1939s; a sedan, a coupe, and a convertible coupe, all specials.

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  1. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: Great looking car! Thanks for the info on the wooden top bow supplier, I'll contact them. And yes, my car has the same piece of metal attached to the rear side of the wooden bow. It was installed as a sturdy support for the rear center top panel that has the back glass. The original window is thick and heavy. I made mine out of single pane tempered glass to cut down on the weight but retained the original design in the interest of authenticity. I have attached a few pictures that show construction details. The interior photo with the rear window panel lowered was taken at a museum nearby. The car is a 1939 Century. Bob H
  2. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: You are correct, the extra wooden top bow you have won't work on my car. Is whoever made your wooden bow still making them? I was going to tackle it myself but having one made would be a lot quicker. Did you ever get the windshield reveal molding solved? I have recently found a craftsman in Portland, Oregon who can weld stainless steel trim and had him repair a piece for me. Looks great! Bob H
  3. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: We have been gone for a few days and just got a chance to check your reply out. The irons are different but the wooden bow might be close, I'll do some checking but it's probably too good to be true. Did you get the top bow situation on your car sorted out? Thanks, Bob H
  4. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: Sounds like you have more bows than you need and might have an extra one that I need, the wooden one. Sent a couple more pictures that should clear things up for you. After the header there are three bows, a tubular steel one above the rear door post, a second tubular steel one, and the rear which is made up of two flat steel straps attached to a wooden tack bow. I would be interested in purchasing the rear wooden bow if you have an extra. Slipped in an extra picture of my project taken today. Bob H
  5. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: It looks like you are almost there. Just slip the tubular bow over the threaded end of the shoulder bolt and put install a nut. You have the flat (slat Iron) part of the rear bow in it's correct position. I'll attach a photo of mine prior to tear down. Bob H
  6. Greetings: A couple of years ago I bought a set of used hubcaps for my 1939 Special. When they arrived they didn't fit my car even though the seller said they were for 1939 Buick. I suspect they were for the larger series cars. I can dig them out and send you pictures if you think they might fit your car. I would describe them as better than average for their age. Bob H
  7. First, collect about two garden wheelbarrows full of money and spread it around. Actually, someone else here came up with measuring restoration costs by the wheelbarrows full of dollars. Landmark: today we set the completed chassis on the ground for the first time. Loaded it on the trailer and tomorrow it goes to the restoration shop to have the body, which is undercoated and painted on the bottom, installed. Bob H
  8. Airbag unplug

    Not sure of your intent but if you are trying to disable the air bag simply remove the airbag fuse. Bob H
  9. Just want to confirm that the firewall data tag on a 1939 Special is painted body color. My new reproduction tag is bright and shiny aluminum. Thanks, Bob H
  10. Recasting steering wheels

    Richard Gumm, 740 374 8169. Bob H
  11. New Owner Seeks Reatta Tech Help

    Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Two weeks ago I had only a vague idea what a Reatta is and had never sat in one. Today I (we) own one. On the trip home we searched many times through the car's pristine owner's manual and obviously didn't find all the answers. My request was for help filling in the gaps and most of your answers have been right on. I have the feeling that I might have offended some gremlin fans and apologize for that. To me, "gremlins" caused problems that had no other clear and understandable explanation. As I remember they were especially common in World War 2 aircraft. Great advice on the shop manual, have one coming. The "Headlights Recommended" notice was happening in the middle of a bright sunny 105 degree day in the Arizona desert. The blocked photocell suggestion is spot on. Haven't taken much time to chase the continually running fuel pump, unless that is a state of the art 1990 feature, but we swapped the fuel pump relay with the fog light relay and the pump stopped running. Curiously, the fog lights work correctly with the fuel pump relay. More work to do. Those of you who explained the delayed shut-off of electrical system components cleared up a number of questions. Answered my own my own parts interchangeability question. The Craigslist seller I mentioned had an incredible amount of brand new Reatta parts, mostly chassis and suspension, I bought the entire lot. Intended to post an update but didn't get a good picture of the stuff. I'll try to do that tomorrow. Again, thanks! Bob H
  12. Hello all: I have been a BCA member for a few years hanging out mostly on the prewar forum with help requests and advice in return for my 1939 Special convertible nut and bolt restoration. Got a little panicked over the calendar and decided to buy a running and driving later model special interest convertible. Picked up a nice 32k (now 34K) mile 1990 Reatta convertible off the Phoenix, AZ Craigslist and drove it 1500 miles cold turkey back home to Oregon. I am a lifelong motor sport enthusiast, an expert mechanic, and experienced with body structural repair via a 21 year hobby-business buying insurance company "totals", repairing and selling them, nearly 200 to be approximate. Electricity doesn't scare me. Automatic transmissions are farmed out to experts. First off I would like a recommendation and source for a comprehensive shop manual (or manuals) covering all phases of mechanical repairs, body and trim, and electrical circuits. A few gremlins showed up on the trip home that maybe someone else has experienced. It almost seems like the ignition switch isn't turning clear off, the fuel pump keeps running and the radio plays with the switch off and the key removed. We stopped at an auto parts house, bought a battery terminal wrench, and disconnected the battery on long stops. The only tool we used on the entire trip. A warning light, for lack of better words, pops up from time to time on the instrument cluster, "Headlights Recommended", what does that mean? With the the battery connected and the car left standing for awhile the odometer shows up on the cluster, while the key is off. Any suggestions for tackling these problems? Thanks for your support, Bob H
  13. Looking for any history of a Buick Reatta

    Greetings: Thought I would put a little cap on this story. Last Tuesday, August 8, my bride and I flew to Phoenix, bought this car and drove it home north of Portland, Oregon, nearly 1500 miles. The one hitch that developed seems to be that the ignition switch isn't turning everything clear off. The radio stays on and the fuel pump keeps running after the switch is off and the key removed. Otherwise the car performed flawlessly. We stopped at an auto parts store, bought a battery post wrench and disconnected the battery at long stops. Our only tool the entire trip. We sort of felt sympathy for Scrapper who obviously had time and money invested and passed on the car. We probably owe him a thank you since the owner had substantially lowered his asking price. Felt especially bad for the knocks he got on the car by a local automotive service shop, none of which have proven yet to be true. The temperature on the first leg of the trip westerly across Arizona, into the California desert averaged well over 100 degrees with a high of 113, the AC performed flawlessly. Steering is precise with no slop, tight spots or fluid loss from the rack. Miles of stop and go traffic in the urban areas gave the brakes a thorough workout. They performed well. Don't quite haul the car down like I expected from four wheel discs but well up to the task. The faults pointed out by the pre-purchase inspection don't make any sense to me. The shop must have had a motive. We relied on our own examination, interview and test drive to reach our purchase decision. The biggest single plus being the really low miles (32K). When buying a used car the most important item is the unused miles and this car has lots of them. I will concede other flaws because the low mileage adds so much. The car also had a current oil change sticker. We found a couple of cosmetic flaws. The bumper cover on the left front is pushed back about 2 inches from a slight bump. Not into the tire but it's really close. Without making a political statement, the owner had removed a TRUMP sticker which took the paint with it. At least a $500 fix. I intend to make another post with questions about the car and sources of information, the first being a shop manual and electrical diagrams.
  14. 2017 BCA Roster

    All members including electronic only are scheduled to get hard copy rosters? Bob H
  15. 1939 Special running board installation

    Billy: The running boards are the radio antenna. I have not heard from any expert on how well they worked. Allan: I have four US made 1939 specials and scrapped a fifth, they all had the insulated running board/ radio antennas. Bob H .