Bob H

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About Bob H

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  • Birthday 07/29/1934


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    79 years old and quite active, lifelong automotive and mechanical things interests, serious do-it-yourselfer, recently built a new home. Couldn't find an old collector Buick at the price I wanted so I bought three 1939s; a sedan, a coupe, and a convertible coupe, all specials.

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  1. 1939 Stream Boards For Sale

    Allan: My father was stationed in Australia early in WW2 and I have always wanted to visit. Maybe the stream boards could be checked baggage? Yes, my project has stream boards, the car was born with them. Thanks for the note, good to hear from you. Bob H Dynaflash8: I'll send you a note about the parts you have via a PM that I started awhile back about a radio. Is there a chance you might have any really nice hubcaps that fit Special. I have "drivers" but need something better for Sunday cruising. Sharp eyes, those are indeed 15 inch wheels and tires. I have a set of trued and balanced original 16 inch for the car that will be painted body color with the three pinstripes. Didn't want to buy 16 inch tires and have them die of old age waiting for the car to get finished. Picked up a set of 15 inch rags at the local auto wrecker's. The red 15 inch wheels will become part of my surplus parts pile. Just couldn't put rusty old parts on the new chassis so I powder coated them red to stimulate conversation. Thanks for the reply, Bob H
  2. Probably the most complete set of 1939 stream boards available. The boards are in great condition except for a narrow sheet metal strip on the inside that holds weatherstripping. They are straight and rust free as they were dip-stripped with the rest of my project's sheet metal. The support brackets are included, now powder coated black. All six pieces of stainless trim are there, in decent shape but need straightening and polishing. The rear fender stone guards are included but need straightening and new rubber covering, not easily repaired. Don't have a picture but I also have the rear fenders with mounting holes for the stone guards, intact and rust free, also dip-stripped but need sheet metal work as you might expect from almost eighty year old parts. The retainers for the wide stainless trim piece on the outer edge of the boards are in rough shape and will need replacement, either fabrication or an adaptation of universal retainers. The previously mentioned weather strip retainers need to be fabricated and replaced, an easy repair. The fenders need some body work and straightening, and the trim needs refinishing. The pieces are all there and most are in better than average condition. $1500 for everything, available now in Rainier, Oregon. Unusual delivery option: we are leaving March 27 on a road trip to Virginia and could take the parts with us for pick up on or near our travel route. We will close this offer Sunday evening March 25 since we will be gone until the third week in April. Would consider some 1939 Special parts as part payment, a new throttle cable, a NOS headlight switch, the medallion that goes on the nose of the car, left and right vent window regulators, and an original lug wrench. Let me know what you might have. I am winding down my 1939 46C restoration project and have tons or surplus parts to dispose of, including two parts cars. Living in Rainier, Oregon makes shipping prohibitively expensive for large bulky parts . I am working on an inventory and when it's complete will offer the entire lot for sale. If you are now a parts vendor this might be worth your while, more later. Thanks, Bob H
  3. Needs Help1990 Reatta Headlight Repair

    Thanks to all for your suggestions and ideas. First, the end play on the right hand assembly is 0.080+ inches. My working career as a cartographer involved a lot of measuring in both metric and US systems. Whichever tool I pick first is what gets used, sorry. Went back and checked end play on the left hand driven shaft and even that seems excessive at 0.040". I have found the shop manual to be nearly useless for technical details and realize that the experience of others is the best source of information. We are getting the Reatta ready for a trip to Virginia from Oregon and back leaving in late March. Even though the recently acquired Reatta has only 34,000 miles I am trying to catch up on the high maintenance items the experts here have described. Headlight motors and floorboard wire splices are examples, other suggestions are appreciated. We repainted the rear panel where the Trump sticker was removed along with the paint, no political statement intended. Who has headlight motor parts? I think that the distorted gear cover is contributing at least partly to the end play in the right hand opener assembly and that it should be replaced. The two ball end links have some slop in them and need to replacing. There was a larger bellcrank retaining nut available and would like to replace the smaller one , the left hand mechanism has the larger nut already. A couple of cover gaskets would be nice if they are available and eight or ten extra shims. Thanks again, Bob H
  4. Greetings all: Trying to upgrade the headlight door opening mechanisms on my recently acquired 1990 Reatta convertible and ran into a couple of problems or questions. First, how much end play should the short gear shaft have? On the right hand motor there are more than 2mm which seems excessive. Based my experience with the driver's side all the parts look to be there. Also, didn't check end play as closely on the driver's side but it wasn't that much. When I pulled the cover off the gear case the outer bushing and an O-ring were detached from their places in the housing. Nothing looks damaged. Do the bushing and O-ring look correct for the application (see photo)? Additionally, the cover was not down tight to the housing. It looks like someone really over tightened the cover screws and distorted the ears preventing the cover itself from pulling down tight and allowing the excessive end play. Tried to make a picture but as you can see didn't do real well. Is the gear housing cover malleable enough to let me straighten the ears or are they going break (I expect)? Anticipating the worst, who would I go to for another cover? As a point of interest, the gears were not the "white plastic" described in technical posts on this site but metal, see photo. Is this an aftermarket upgrade or a feature of the 1990 cars? Another difference was the tear down procedure on the right hand motor. The help bulletins describe the right hand motor as problematic but this one is exactly like the drivers side only a mirror image and no problem at all to tear down. Th mounting lugs are on the other side of course. Shortly after I bought my Reatta an ad for a lot of new mostly chassis parts was posted locally on CraigsList and I bought them. Attached a photo of what more parts than one needs for a 34,000 mile car looks like. Not sure whether to make the available to others or wait until I need them. Thanks, Bob H
  5. I believe all 1939 convertibles had the windshield trim, others too. I have a short frame 46S that has it and sold a Special sedan that had it. Could it have been a dealer option? Bob H
  6. Master Cylinder Rebuild for a 37

    White Post in Virginia sleeved all the brake cylinders for my 1939. They met all expectations for estimated cost, quality and delivery time. A bit spendy but guaranteed for life. I would use them again. Bob H
  7. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: Great looking car! Thanks for the info on the wooden top bow supplier, I'll contact them. And yes, my car has the same piece of metal attached to the rear side of the wooden bow. It was installed as a sturdy support for the rear center top panel that has the back glass. The original window is thick and heavy. I made mine out of single pane tempered glass to cut down on the weight but retained the original design in the interest of authenticity. I have attached a few pictures that show construction details. The interior photo with the rear window panel lowered was taken at a museum nearby. The car is a 1939 Century. Bob H
  8. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: You are correct, the extra wooden top bow you have won't work on my car. Is whoever made your wooden bow still making them? I was going to tackle it myself but having one made would be a lot quicker. Did you ever get the windshield reveal molding solved? I have recently found a craftsman in Portland, Oregon who can weld stainless steel trim and had him repair a piece for me. Looks great! Bob H
  9. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: We have been gone for a few days and just got a chance to check your reply out. The irons are different but the wooden bow might be close, I'll do some checking but it's probably too good to be true. Did you get the top bow situation on your car sorted out? Thanks, Bob H
  10. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: Sounds like you have more bows than you need and might have an extra one that I need, the wooden one. Sent a couple more pictures that should clear things up for you. After the header there are three bows, a tubular steel one above the rear door post, a second tubular steel one, and the rear which is made up of two flat steel straps attached to a wooden tack bow. I would be interested in purchasing the rear wooden bow if you have an extra. Slipped in an extra picture of my project taken today. Bob H
  11. 39 Buick 46C top bows assembly

    Ron: It looks like you are almost there. Just slip the tubular bow over the threaded end of the shoulder bolt and put install a nut. You have the flat (slat Iron) part of the rear bow in it's correct position. I'll attach a photo of mine prior to tear down. Bob H
  12. Greetings: A couple of years ago I bought a set of used hubcaps for my 1939 Special. When they arrived they didn't fit my car even though the seller said they were for 1939 Buick. I suspect they were for the larger series cars. I can dig them out and send you pictures if you think they might fit your car. I would describe them as better than average for their age. Bob H
  13. First, collect about two garden wheelbarrows full of money and spread it around. Actually, someone else here came up with measuring restoration costs by the wheelbarrows full of dollars. Landmark: today we set the completed chassis on the ground for the first time. Loaded it on the trailer and tomorrow it goes to the restoration shop to have the body, which is undercoated and painted on the bottom, installed. Bob H
  14. Airbag unplug

    Not sure of your intent but if you are trying to disable the air bag simply remove the airbag fuse. Bob H
  15. Just want to confirm that the firewall data tag on a 1939 Special is painted body color. My new reproduction tag is bright and shiny aluminum. Thanks, Bob H