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Segman

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About Segman

  • Birthday 07/13/1972

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  1. Hi, I have an 89 Chrysler TC 16 Valve for sale. Has new brakes all around, new brake accumulator and new exhaust manifold gaskets. Car runs excellent but has small oil leak, maybe valve cover. Mileage shows 54906 but odometer stop working some time after I made repairs. It just sits in the garage and is never driven, need it gone. Call me and I can give you more history on the car. 740 970-0017,. $2500. Thanks, Chris
  2. Still have this car for sale, just sitting in garage with battery tendor. I can give more details and pics on request. Thanks
  3. Hey, thanks for the info. The car is located in Orient, Ohio 43146. Thanks again, Chris
  4. 89 Chrysler TC for sale, 16 valve, 5 speed, 54,906 miles, New brake accumulator from TC Parts, reman calipers all around, new rotors and pads, ran two big bottles of brake fluid through system, new exhaust manifold gaskets and studs. Bought at estate sale back in 2010 and was not driven since 2005, owners stated starter must be bad but I found aftermarket alarm was not allowing the starter relay to energize. Only drove a few hundred miles last summer after repairs because it has an oil leak coming from valve cover and I wanted to repair the odometer. It quite working after I started driving it and reset the trip odometer. I have pics of mileage when I got the car (54,899) and current. The tires are new (tread depth) but are starting to get cracks. Looks to be the second set of tires because I can only find witness marks from original wheel weights. I can not find any rust on the car, interior is clean and leather seats ok, little faded, dash is good. Exterior paint is shiny but trunk lid had some paint fade. Have receipts for all parts. $5,000 OBO Email me for more information and pics, csager72@gmail.com.
  5. Anyone know where I could get replacement exhaust manifold studs and nuts for the 16 valve? Thanks Chris
  6. I went ahead and cut the wiring out and the relay. The only cut factory wire is the solenoid signal wire, the others I need to remove the solder and re-insulate. I am going to the junk yard and cut out a starter relay harness so I have a long piece of solenoid signal wire to splice. I took some pics of what I found. Thanks for every ones help. This should take care of the problem. I'll keep you posted when I get started.
  7. Found a schematic of relay online. Looks like its passing the voltage fron starter relay to the horn, terminal 1 to 5.
  8. Ok, found some shady work. The wire going to the door is spliced to an orange with black stripe wire, and spliced in the boot between the door and car. Followed this wire and it's going to the power door lock actuator. I tested the door locks before and both worked, so I'm not sure why relay is not firing. I'll check the relay again tomorrow with a meter. Most likely I'll just pull this thing out and car should start. Would like to get the lighted entry working on the key lock since I have door panel off.
  9. Ok, thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted.
  10. The horn honks constant when you turn the key to spin the starter, goes off when you release. I will dig into it more and find what wire it is spliced into. I did follow this wire from relay to flex boot and did not find any other connection. Do you guys know if you can get a replacement lock cylinder with wire harness for the entry lighting?
  11. Ok, took drivers side door panel off. Found wires going to key lock cylinder broke off. The wire running to this door must be spliced in with this, but have not confirmed yet. I think it must be spliced inside the boot between car and door. There is a small harness to unplug these wires from the key lock cylinder. I unplugged this connector and jumped it, and the car horn still went off. Not sure exactly how the lighting system works at this time, but I should get 12 volts when the door is unlocked, correct?
  12. Thanks for reply's, it is an 89. I started tracing wires from relay since I have found no control module. Terminal 1 is coming from starter relay, so terminal 2 would supply 12 volts to soleniod but it's not closing. Terminal 3 and 4, one is going to ground and the other goes inside the driver side door. Terminal 5 is spliced into a green wire running to the horn. I have not taken door panel off yet to see what wire is connected to. Seems like what is in the door needs to supply 12 volts to close the relay. Is it possible that there is no control module? I'll keep you posted, thanks. Chris
  13. I found the passenger door would not unlock with key, the linkage from key lock cylinder to door latch had come apart. Also notice there are wires running to the key lock cylinder. I thought after hooking linkage back up and unlocking with key might help but no fix, horn still goes off while turning ignition key on. And have not found any control module yet. Anyone seen these wires before?
  14. I did find a 30 amp fuse in the accessory location. Will check it out and trace wires. Thanks Chris
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