Eric W

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Eric W last won the day on August 29 2016

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About Eric W

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  • Birthday 12/06/1968

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    '55 Buick Special 2-dr, '51 Buick Special 4-dr 41D, '51 Buick Roadmaster 2-dr HT 76R
  1. First chance to start it & check for leaks today. Opened the oil filter canister - mostly to get a filter part number (Hastings LF101). It didn't look too bad, so I closed it back up & started the engine. Slight leak from the filter canister lid - tightened the bolt that holds the lid on to fix that. Let it warm up a little - no other obvious leaks. Drove it around for a couple minutes. Slight leak at the fuel pump flange, but none of the tubes or tube fittings leaked. I had moved the gasket for the fuel pump from the parts car, so no telling how old that was. I'll make up another gasket & order another filter.
  2. Parts car items #11, 12, and 19. #11 - oil filter & bracket - cleaned these off and got them installed. You can see how dirty they were in an earlier post. Thought about doing the full bare metal & repaint, but this goes back to what one of the other forum members pointed out - then there'd be a couple of way-too-nice-looking parts right up top. #12 - fuel pump - after discussion w/ some in the local club, decided going fully original with this isn't worth it. For one, these earliest-V8 fuel pumps are much more expensive to rebuild, and there's a good pump already on the car. Also saw & heard some speak of "leave the pump on there for appearance, but run an electric pump". So I put the '51-'52 pump on there for looks, but also because the oil fitting from the parts car runs a line from the head to the fuel pump. So rather than cap the fitting, I just put the line in place as well. So this pump will circulate oil, but there's no pushrod (or fuel line to/from), so the pump itself is just for looks. I only had these things on & off about 4 times to figure out the order that things need to be tightened before they're buried by something else... #19 - Left side air vent screen from the parts car. Saw these in a catalog for $22 (+tax & shipping), so the parts car keeps providing value. First two photos are a reminder of the starting point.
  3. Wire harness will be a while. Since the wire terminals at the front lights are different, I can't just do the dash-to-under-hood harness by itself. Also have to replace all of the light sockets & front light wiring (the kit included parts for that). I also found that the wire terminals at the headlight switch are not all the same either, so there's some adapting to be done there as well. Given that, I'd expect "adapting" to occur at other items I haven't even looked at, so I don't want to get into it now. I signed up for a show next month, and I don't want to miss that because the wires are out.
  4. Tucson, 4th of January. 78F in the afternoon. There was a late spring / early summer type crowd at the cruise night tonight due to the great weather. This is to remind me why I'm still here in August, when it's closer to 120F in the shade...
  5. I'm not sure yet where it goes, but I haven't seen anything like the '51 Buick where the rear light wiring came down from the right side of the dash/firewall, back along the right front floor, wrapping around the right edge of the front seat to the center of the back of the seat, between the front & back seats along the center of the floor, then into a tunnel at front edge of back seat to the left side, then up into the trunk at the left side... I expect the Studebaker to be more economical with wiring, with as straight a line as possible from the left side of the dash back along the left side. Though part of the Buick having such a lengthy routing is that the hydraulic pump for the power windows is in the right front fender, and the hydraulic line for the rear windows pops through the firewall on the right side, following the same routing as the wiring, but passes through the tunnel at the front of the back seat to Tee under the middle of the back seat to a line to the window cylinder on each side... And there's also a tee at the center of the back of the front seat for the line to the left side of the seat for the power seat cylinder... The fantastic complexity of an independent hydraulic system just to drive 4 windows and a seat adjuster...
  6. Not sure how far I'm going with this, but the parts car had new wire harness in the trunk. Got it out today and labeled the leads. Wires on the left in the photo are the right side of under the hood. Headlights are up in the center, and under the dash is wrapped around to the right. The bundles at the bottom - left one is harness to the rear lights, right one is additional pieces that go under the hood, and the couple at the bottom are additional under-dash pieces. Second photo is the diagram / wire list.
  7. I think in the case of this car, many years of not having the horn wire through the steering shaft left the hole for the wire open down next to the engine, and material from the environment down there just collected in the wire hole.
  8. Thanks for the comments, guys. Parts car item #18 - horn ring. I wasn't really thinking about this, but the chrome on some of the interior parts in the coupe is pretty thin. I tried some Simichrome on the horn ring of the parts car, and it cleaned up pretty well. First photo, upper left portion of the horn ring cleaned up. 2nd photo - whole thing cleaned up. When I disassembled the horn ring from the coupe, I found the few "horn" parts are just gone, so I transferred them over from the parts car, though I couldn't get the wire down the steering column. I probed the bottom end of the column (from the engine compartment side), and it's gummed up with grease. I may clean that out at some point, but there's a button under the left side dash for the horn now. The steering wheel overall is bent, so even if all of the horn parts are in there, it won't work. The steering wheel seems to be bent towards the driver. Not sure how that would happen, but the horn ring seems like it would make constant contact. Anyway, the chrome part looks nicer, and the emblem is less faded and has fewer cracks. Horn ring is held on by two 5/32" SHCS's, one on each steering wheel spoke. These screws have plastic "spool" pieces on them to allow the ring to move. The ring is "sprung" up off the steering wheel by a foam rubber ring. In the parts car, this ring had taken a set, so I added a thin piece of foam to it to thicken it up.
  9. Tried to get some brighter photos, but these are too bright, with late-day sun nearly straight onto the sides of the car.
  10. Yes, I think I'm done with the fender skirts. I'll hold onto them, as original parts for the car, but they don't fit with these hubcaps. And now that the wheel / tire is so much better to look at, I don't want to cover them up.
  11. Got the wheels cleaned up & on. Skipping the in-process photos. It's a couple of hours to clean off that blue paint (water soluble) and sand the powder coat out of the lug nut holes. And no, I didn't jack it up to get the wheel vent holes all lined up like that...
  12. North American Powder Coating - off Grant at I-10. He's good & quick, and if you can use a color he has in stock, it's $50/wheel. The tires are Coker - they're the "American Classic" model. I got them through Discount Tire - since they price match anything, their price was a little lower than ordering through Coker's website, even with Coker offering free shipping right now. Though the Discount Tire website doesn't bring up any Coker tires, just ask them & they'll call Coker no problem.
  13. Now there's cleaning off the blue protective coating, adding the hubcap clips, putting them on the car... These bias-look radials were wrapped so the two sides were pressed together. This made them as hard as actual bias tires to get the air inside. There's only 3 whitewalls here because the tire shop couldn't get the air into the 4th one (after much trying)! They said they used to have a stronger air source but it was removed. They stayed until past closing time to finish these 3 & they'll try again tomorrow to get the air in. Anyway, that blackwall is a (much) lower-cost radial for the spare. The bias-look radial looks more like bias-ply than I thought it would... It's not just a wide-white radial...
  14. Rims back from powder coater. Hard to tell how the color is more cream than white. There will be some contrast next to the whitewalls.
  15. Parts car items #16 & 17 - front license plate bracket & wheel rims. Got the plate off the bracket, and soaked the plate bracket & bolts in Evap O Rust for a couple of days. Also straightened the bracket some, though it has an arch to it to match the center of the bumper. Painted & installed today. My wife got me a novelty plate for the front based on the "UFO" idea that my son came up with. Wheel rims - got the 5 that were on/in the parts car to the tire shop yesterday to have the tires removed, and then took the rims over to the powder coater. Took longer to settle on a color than I had waited at the tire shop, but working with the powder coat guy I think it will be a good choice... Anyway, a very close representation of the colors I'm going for is on the Dec. 2017 cover of Turning Wheels (Studebaker Driver's Club magazine). Also ordered the wide-white bias-look radials. I didn't think I would go for bias-look radials (I had done bias-plies on the '51 Buick), but the tire shop talked me into it. In driving the bias-plies on the Buick, they lighten up the steering a lot (to what was intended back when it was designed), but they are very squishy when cornering.