Mr. Anderson

The pass. side does get hot and cold just like the drivers side. I know the blend doors were bad for sticking on these lesabres and this is not the case here. On the control for the pass. side, nothing lights up when the hot or cold arrows are pressed. That is what led me to believe that I need a new pass. control. I don't believe that I have the automatic pull down option. I didn't know lesabres could get them; I thought it was a Park Avenue thing? As for the impact sensor, the frame is straight and nothing appears to have been jarred by an accident or anything else. Perhaps bad wiring or corrosion?

I recently bought a 2005 Buick LeSabre Limited with fairly low miles, and noticed that there are a couple of things that do not work. None of these affect the drivetrain, but just some things I wanted to ask about before acquiring parts:1. The Air Bag Light is on. My scanner says it is a front impact sensor. I will replace that soon.2. The Trunk will not open with the remote or the button on the drivers door. It will only open by manually opening from the rear with the key. You can hear the relay clicking under the back seat, so I am betting that I need a new actuator/motor in the trunk.3. The passenger climate controls on the pass. door do not do anything. The main climate control works fine with no issues. I am guessing that the controls on the door are bad and not the pass. door module since the window works. Other than that, the car runs and drives beautifully. I want to just confirm that these are the parts that I need to obtain for the car.Thanks for the input!

Well that about decides it for me. I have started the process of unhooking everything from the engine bay and will start looking for another engine. I will try to get a newer one as compared to an older one. Is there any way that I can get the oil pan off without having to have the engine in the floor? Pretty car, just wish I knew more on how to fix it.

I was recently given the opportunity to get a 2010 Buick Lacrosse CXS with a knocking engine for an excellent deal, and now I have the car! That being said, I know absolutely nothing about these modern cars! I am in need of some help going forward with this engine knock. Is there anyone here that has experience working on these cars? I really need to know how to remove the oil pan, and eventually how to separate the engine from the transmission.

Let me wrap this thread up after a long break. After finishing a very long semester at school, I bought a good used programmer from Jim Finn. I am pleased to say that the programmer was the problem all along, and now I have air coming out of the correct vents! Thanks to everyone for all their help with this issue!

I am in need of an HVAC Programmer for my 91 Reatta. I have a bad solenoid in the original one and am not technically minded enough to install new solenoids. If anyone has one for sale, please let me know. I believe the 89-91 Programmers are interchangeable. Thanks!

An update: I disconnected the vacuum lines from the bottom of the programmer and individually connected the engine vacuum line (black) to each of the color coded lines. When I connected to each individual one, the air was directed out of the appropriate vents (even out of the front vents when connected to blue). Would this result mean that I have a faulty programmer?

I believe what you are experiencing is the A/C system purge. This is normal for the car. When you first start up the car, the system will empty out any air it has in it, and shortly after, the programmer/BCM will command normal airflow.

Just got back and verified that I have a pretty good vacuum on the black line at the programmer. Also double checked the vacuum lines in the engine compartment and they are all in place and look good. Could I have a bad solenoid in the programmer?

If the evaporator were clogged, then wouldn't that mean that I would get no air flow through any vent, regardless of the position of the blend doors? I'm sure that it could use a good cleaning out, but I have pretty good flow through the defroster and floor vents. I also know that the blower itself is not an issue because it works at all of the different speeds, and the AUTO feature works as well.

Hi all! Haven't posted in some time due to trying to finish my music degree, but I still have been working on my 91 little by little and have finished everything except for paint and the no air out of the dash vents issue. Well today, I decided to set everything aside and go after the issue. In short, I have the bottom of the dash removed so I could look up at the clip attached to the blend doors thinking that it may be broken. However, it appears that it is still in one piece, but I still have no idea why I only get air out the defroster and floor vents. In diagnostics, the programmer checks out to be doing its job as the temperature arm moves properly and it appears to be commanding the doors to work, yet nothing changes. Also, the A/C works properly and has been converted to 134a. Am I now dealing with a vacuum issue or do I have a faulty valve?

Machiner 55, thank you for the information. No, not exactly what I wanted to hear, but that's ok, now at least I know. I may or may not return it, as I like to have plenty of spare parts on hand, you know, "just in case."

Late last week I was searching for the unobtainable intermediate parking brake cables in thinking that my reatta needed to have it replaced (thankfully it works, the ratchet just needs lubrication.) I found one at advancedauto.com after searching for part numbers on this forum. It only cost me a little over $30. It came in today and I wanted to verify with the more knowledgable people on here that it was the correct part. Below is a picture: It is about 33.5 inches in length, and shows some resemblance to the cable on the car now. If this is indeed correct, this can be an inexpensive repair as long as there are parts in stock.

I'm still working out all of the kinks with this 91, and although the big problems are taken care of, there are still little gremlins floating around in this car. This morning I was checking the parking brake and although it was working, the pedal would not retract very fast like it normally should. Upon visual inspection, the assembly is very corroded and dirty. I was wondering if there is anything that I need to lubricate in the parking brake assembly to help it to operate smoother?

John, I have been looking at that post for some time, hoping that the solution was something simple. Unfortunately, that is not the case (as nothing really is with these cars, lol.) I will probably tackle this after the car gets painted, or if I ever get a free day or two to take this task on. I have to ask, is it difficult to get those pieces cut out or can they be removed for the repair and then reinstalled?