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About 195354

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  • Birthday 03/13/1957

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  • Location:
    Eugene Oregon

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  1. 195354

    1953 Convertibles project

    Ken thanks for the information and pictures. On my parts cars the fenders and floor, had paint or primer under coating added to the floor and the inner fender, My research shows no paint on the torque tube and differential housing and a few other parts. My guess is the steel might have been coated with rust preventative oils or pre-lubes for heavily drawn steel this could have been left to slow rust until under coated or the unit is sold. This is my guess anyway with no color pictures from the assembly lines and just parts I have access to. Ken you are going to have a nice 40 when you are done I have been watching your progress. I am working on repairing the lower windshield and cowl area; I have removed a solid cowl and lower window frame from my parts car. I have a few pictures, drilling the spot welds is not too bad, this weekend I hope start installing it. Steve
  2. 195354

    1953 Convertibles project

    I have been doing research regarding what color the torque tube and differential housing were when it left the factory, Most of my research is cleaning on my car and parts cars. I have been able to locate just a few pictures and they are black and white. These pictures do show a different color on the listed parts they are not black like the frame. I have cleaned the torque tube and rear differential housing and a few other parts . Most of the parts below the floor have on the top half and rust on the bottom half, with no sign of paint on the bottom. When I remove the under coating on top no sign of paint just clean steel. I have done this carefully so as not to disturb the paint. When I removed undercoating from other parts on my car the paint remained. This is what I have found with no paint at this point. Rear differential housing, inspection cover is painted, rear sway bar no paint control arms on torque tube and lower coil spring retainers for the rear axle no paint. I would think these parts would have some type of rust inhibitor from the factory. If no rust inhibitor applied on these parts, was this just a way that the dealer could upsell undercoating. Has anyone found the same with the cars they have worked on, Black is the norm on restored cars from what I have seen. Here is a picture rear sway bar. Thanks for any information provided. Steve
  3. 195354

    What is this noise on my ‘53 322?

    Sounds like a miss fire, try to canceling out the cylinders one at a time with someone at the tail pipe when they say no change in the noise you have located that problem. After that, I would pull the plugs and see if they have, any tell tail signs that help with the diagnostics. I would run a compression test next and before I started pulling anything apart, I would check the lift on each rocker, easier when the plugs are out. Dial indicator is best but I have used a ruler, bar the engine over by hand check lift as you go also look for a loose rocker on the other cylinders, once you have done this it will confirm the cam is ok and the lifter is filled with oil. Let us know what you find. Steve
  4. 195354

    What is this noise on my ‘53 322?

    Tim Here are a few ideas on the noise you are trying to pin down. I would remove the fuel pump add a cover and see if the noise changes. With the pump removed, the lever that actuates the pump will be out of the picture, I have seen weak return springs or loose pins in the body make a noise and they are hard to locate. If the noise does not change and I do not think it will change try canceling out the cylinders. Use plastic or insulated pliers remove a spark plug wire for a second and see if you have any change. When I do this, I have the wires loose so they are easy to pull, this will prevent damage to the wires. If any of one these reduce the noise, you at least have one place to look not eight. I have listened to the recording and it sure sounds like the valve train. Another idea is try to hold the rocker arm down with a bar just a little load not enough that the push rod can fall out while it is running this will possibly change the noise or you might feel it. Tim since this is a fresh rebuild has it been driven and heated up under load. Does the noise change when hot? If you can, try heating the engine up remove the valve covers and push down on each valve while hot. I had a valve train noise a few years back and it turned out a valve was sticking in the guide when warm. It would not return timely and the rocker would slap the valve. If you have extra valve covers cut the top so you can see what is going on, reduces the oil going all over the place. I have done the valve cover trick and it helps prevent burnt fingers just make sure you don't have any sharp edges on the cover . One other thought, contact a CAT dealer if you have one close and purchase an engine oil sample kit they are usually under $20 take a sample this is another tool that can help tell you what is going on. Iet us know what you find. Good luck Steve
  5. 195354

    1953 Convertibles project

    Here are a few pictures of one of the parts cars differential and torque tube also a picture of the diff housing from the convertible after tanking it. From what I can tell these had no paint just a splattering of under coating the rear sway bar does not appear to have every been painted along with the lower control arms. I also see some smaller parts that did not have paint like the coil spring retainers that bolt to the diff housing. Most of the pictures I see after work has been done show most everything black. Does anyone have any documentation from Buick, or possibly a disassembled car before restoration that shows the chassis detail what was painted, or not when assembled. I want to try to duplicate as close as I can. I am ready for assembly other than paint on the chassis parts. Any information regarding paint or plating on brake backing plates and shocks and other parts that bolt on will be a great help. Steve
  6. 195354

    1953 power brake booster correct finish

    Tom Thanks for the picture this is what I have been looking for on the Kelsey Hays unit. I still am looking for info on the Moraine power brake unit. If anyone has a picture of a Moraine before repair, it would be a good witness part. I have two and they have stickers from a rebuilder, and they are rusty very little if any paint no hope of locating what they had for color. Al thanks for the picture also. I have a few questions on fasteners that hold the chassis together. I would think the fasteners would be a black Oxide. I have cleaned a number of the bolts from my project and that looks to be what is used. I hope to paint these again and start assembly; I plan to use a DruCoat process this should duplicate the sheen on the bolts. Thanks for the help. Steve
  7. I am sending one of these power brake boosters out for repair. I have yet to decide if will be the Kelsey Hays or the Moraine unit. The vendor has asked me what finish I want. I have never seen a color photo of a new or low mileage unit. Does anyone have any photos of a power brake booster new or a very low mileage car before any repair? Any factory photos that could confirm the finish or some info from Buick. I want to duplicate factory finish on this so when it returns it is ready for install. Thanks Steve
  8. Thanks to all for the information, I am going to try to locate the pancake type filter. Steve
  9. I don’t have access to my parts book but I recall one part number for the fuel filter. The information I have is this had a Delco Moraine filter that has no glass bowl. Is the glass bowl a field modification? Steve
  10. 1953 V 8 fuel filter Roadmaster - Skylark I need some help on the fuel line inlet at the carburetor; it looks like it has a filter that attaches at the inlet to the carburetor. I have only seen one picture on the net it is hard to see; it is not a glass bowl. I have tried all the usual sources, Local parts stores and Bob’s no luck so far. If anyone has a picture of the fuel lines and inlet of carburetor it would be a great help. Thanks for the help Steve
  11. 195354

    1953 Convertibles project

    Ken I have been watching your project you are moving along and I see very nice work. I wish my project would go faster. Ken keep posting pictures it helps keep me motivated when I am pulling my hair out. You asked if this was a favorite or personal history. I like Convertible’s My First car was a convertible purchased while I was in high school in 1972 it was a rough 1953 Belair convertible used more oil than gas I did drive it but did the Muscle car thing most of the time as money permitted. Muscle cars came and went in my early years. I had a 66 Skylark 4 speed and had a few big block 4 speed Chevelles funny thing they would have engine failures on Saturday night. The 53 Chevy was my stand by it was ugly and smoked but it ran most days. I still drive the 53 Chevy soft top, I do not haul parts in it anymore. The Buick line bit me back in the day, a 1953 convertible with a V8 how could I go wrong. My Chevy 235 is fun but it does not need much work in the winter. I now have a project that will keep me busy for several years. Steve
  12. 195354

    1953 Convertibles project

    Took a rest working on the body for the weekend and worked on the axle housing. The right wheel bearing came out with ease couple of hits with the slide hammer and moved on the left side. The axle bearing moved about a 1/8” and stuck. Tried my entire bag of tricks gave up removed rollers, and welded the race. This shrinks the bearing and it came out with ease. I have done this to the cup's in hubs at work on trucks makes them come out easy, little trick I am passing on it saves a lot of work. Steve
  13. 195354

    I removed a 1953 hood by myself pictures

    Mike Good job on the hood l like your strap idea on the hood did you remove the hood springs or cage them before you pulled the bolts for the hinges? The doors are straight forward, hammer impact driver with a Philips will loosen the 3 screws per hinge on the A pillar. I recall one screw head on top and bottom hinge being covered by a weather seal that is held in place with a metal retainer, has small Philip's screws. Then the wires and hydraulic hoses will need pulled through one way or another. Next the door stop needs attention Philips also but the spring loaded door stop will bite you be careful. I use a hydraulic table for lifting doors, roll it under the door take the weight of just a tad remove the screws and roll the door away. Steve
  14. 195354

    1953 Convertibles project

    Here are a few Pictures of the trunk, the rusted floor is out and ready for the junk man. The new floor and back panel is in making sure the trunk lid fits before welding in place. I used a frame from a parts car for support while the convert frame is out at the powder coating shop. This is about the end of major rust repair then the small damaged areas will up for repair. Steve
  15. 195354

    Dynaflow Removal from stuck engine

    Thanks for the advice from everyone I soaked the cylinders with penetrating oil through the spark plug holes for a few days. Then removed the valve cover and push rods still would not budge. I then removed the oil pan, loosed the rods, and shoved the few pistons that would move to the top of their stroke. I let it soak some more still stuck. I was able to move the crank just enough that I could use my air hammer with a long blunt point, this convinced the pistons to move. I now have a 53-flex plate and a core Dynaflow for my project. Steve