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About 195354

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  • Birthday 03/13/1957

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  • Location:
    Eugene Oregon

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  1. Thanks to all for the information, I am going to try to locate the pancake type filter. Steve
  2. I don’t have access to my parts book but I recall one part number for the fuel filter. The information I have is this had a Delco Moraine filter that has no glass bowl. Is the glass bowl a field modification? Steve
  3. 1953 V 8 fuel filter Roadmaster - Skylark I need some help on the fuel line inlet at the carburetor; it looks like it has a filter that attaches at the inlet to the carburetor. I have only seen one picture on the net it is hard to see; it is not a glass bowl. I have tried all the usual sources, Local parts stores and Bob’s no luck so far. If anyone has a picture of the fuel lines and inlet of carburetor it would be a great help. Thanks for the help Steve
  4. 1953 Convertibles project

    Ken I have been watching your project you are moving along and I see very nice work. I wish my project would go faster. Ken keep posting pictures it helps keep me motivated when I am pulling my hair out. You asked if this was a favorite or personal history. I like Convertible’s My First car was a convertible purchased while I was in high school in 1972 it was a rough 1953 Belair convertible used more oil than gas I did drive it but did the Muscle car thing most of the time as money permitted. Muscle cars came and went in my early years. I had a 66 Skylark 4 speed and had a few big block 4 speed Chevelles funny thing they would have engine failures on Saturday night. The 53 Chevy was my stand by it was ugly and smoked but it ran most days. I still drive the 53 Chevy soft top, I do not haul parts in it anymore. The Buick line bit me back in the day, a 1953 convertible with a V8 how could I go wrong. My Chevy 235 is fun but it does not need much work in the winter. I now have a project that will keep me busy for several years. Steve
  5. 1953 Convertibles project

    Took a rest working on the body for the weekend and worked on the axle housing. The right wheel bearing came out with ease couple of hits with the slide hammer and moved on the left side. The axle bearing moved about a 1/8” and stuck. Tried my entire bag of tricks gave up removed rollers, and welded the race. This shrinks the bearing and it came out with ease. I have done this to the cup's in hubs at work on trucks makes them come out easy, little trick I am passing on it saves a lot of work. Steve
  6. I removed a 1953 hood by myself pictures

    Mike Good job on the hood l like your strap idea on the hood did you remove the hood springs or cage them before you pulled the bolts for the hinges? The doors are straight forward, hammer impact driver with a Philips will loosen the 3 screws per hinge on the A pillar. I recall one screw head on top and bottom hinge being covered by a weather seal that is held in place with a metal retainer, has small Philip's screws. Then the wires and hydraulic hoses will need pulled through one way or another. Next the door stop needs attention Philips also but the spring loaded door stop will bite you be careful. I use a hydraulic table for lifting doors, roll it under the door take the weight of just a tad remove the screws and roll the door away. Steve
  7. 1953 Convertibles project

    Here are a few Pictures of the trunk, the rusted floor is out and ready for the junk man. The new floor and back panel is in making sure the trunk lid fits before welding in place. I used a frame from a parts car for support while the convert frame is out at the powder coating shop. This is about the end of major rust repair then the small damaged areas will up for repair. Steve
  8. Dynaflow Removal from stuck engine

    Thanks for the advice from everyone I soaked the cylinders with penetrating oil through the spark plug holes for a few days. Then removed the valve cover and push rods still would not budge. I then removed the oil pan, loosed the rods, and shoved the few pistons that would move to the top of their stroke. I let it soak some more still stuck. I was able to move the crank just enough that I could use my air hammer with a long blunt point, this convinced the pistons to move. I now have a 53-flex plate and a core Dynaflow for my project. Steve
  9. Dynaflow Removal from stuck engine

    Thanks for the reply’s I was expecting the teardown. I now have discovered another issue with my other Dynaflow I was going to repair and use. My library only goes up to 1953 I am unsure about interchanges and using later units. The Dynaflow that came with my car in a box has a 1956 Dynaflow from what I can surmise. I don’t know if it every was in the car, it has a P stamp on the aluminum reaction flange indicates 56 the center casting has (1342992-2) almost matches my core 53 unit (1342992-3) it has J stamp on aluminum flange indicates 53 but the tail housing are not the same length. 53 is 10-¼” long the 56 is 9 -¾” long. If the 56 was installed and used in the car the rear wheels moved was this a common interchange. I know I need the cast bellhousing, what else will I need to look for. I found the letter codes in the forum and they helped me before repair and install this is good info before the dollars go in the wrong unit. Thanks for the help Steve
  10. I am looking for a little help on a Dynaflow transmission removal. I am removing the Dynaflow from a 1953 322 part’s engine and it is stuck. The engine will not turn over for anything. I want the flex plate from this engine and a few other parts. I am wondering if the transmission can be removed and leave the torque converter on the flex plate, then have better access to the flywheel bolts or flex plate bolts. I am pretty sure where this will end, I need to remove the pan and deal with the stuck engine; I am trying to leave it assembled easier to keep track of spare parts it's hard to misplace an engine. Thanks Steve
  11. 1953 Convertibles project

    I have the body and frame back, I had them dipped and the rust is dead. The body came back with some extra rust repair in my future. However, I can now repair the areas and not have rust and undercoating in the way causing poor welding fusion. The frame rear cross member was bent back and rusted on the lower flange; I removed it and welded in the good used one today. In the next week or so, I hope that I can straighten the lower flanges on the frame in a few places; looks like a jack bent the flange sometime in the past. The lower plate between the front coil springs needs repair: jacks and whatever else bent it. I will decide how I will repair this soon, Remove the plate and straighten it then hot rivet it back on or repair in place. I plan to send the frame out and have it powder coated. Then I can start assembling the chassis. Steve
  12. 1953 Convertibles project

    The floor is in and welded in place, door fitment checked and double-checked. I have done this all on the frame with it supported in the spring pockets at the rear and on the wheels on the front. I added the body shims as needed using the existing body shims as a starting point, installed new parts and checked doors and top fitment as the repair progressed. I learned how much these flex the frame would flex quite a bit as does the body. When it is bolted and welded together, it has very little flex, I had a rusted car at the start and for all practical purposes, it was in two pieces. I have a few places that still needed work but I had no access with the frame installed. I hope to have this dipped this coming week When the body returns more work, welding and rust repair the trunk and few spots in the quarter panel fender area. The rust and under coating is really a problem when the panels are pinched welded. I have learned a few things; for the most part a 4-door RM front pan is the same as my convertible it has the same lower body mounts to the frame also the same driver seat attachment. The lower mount‘s to the frame will need the cage nuts installed and the front outer nut for the seat is under the floor sheet metal. Install the driver seat bolt in the three bolts center punch the outer front mounting and drill it out your seat now will bolt down. Steve
  13. All convertibles flex to some degree in fact every car will flex on a lift. I have personally used a lift on my 53 Buick Convertible and 53 Chevrolet convertible, they flex, and gaps change, doors will still open and close, never had one just open. I just talked with an owner of a 55 Chevrolet convertible, he had a transmission removed for repair the shop used a lift, gaps changed but returned to normal on the ground. Follow Al’s advice and confirm the frame has the stiffeners, then check your body mounts are they tight, then check for any rust in the rockers. The floor and rockers are a big part of the structure any loose body mounts or rusted areas will contribute to flex. The convertible rocker on the inside panel just below the door latch area has an additional stiffer that is about 18” long it is sandwiched between the inner and outer rocker panel look closely in this area. Let us know what you find; I would bet the frame is correct and the body is loose on the frame. I am very close to completing a complete floor replacement from the A pillars to the trunk and replacing rockers on my Buick. It will surprise everyone how much the frame flex is reduced when everything is tight and working as one big structure. It has taught me a few lessons for sure. Steve
  14. Thanks to all for the suggestions, I believe the nut in my picture is the correct height, found an old rusty version in a box of parts and it is the same height. Did Buick have a different height on this nut for different years; are you modifying just to fit your needs? I like the idea of shorting the nut some with the correct look retained. The seal that came in the gasket kit does not fit in the top of the valve cover correctly. I can make something work is a seal needed, I was told not that a seal is not a big deal. I hate oil leaks so I am building a test stand for the engine now, test run and check for leaks. Then pickle the engine, and then continue with the project. Steve
  15. I am ready for paint on my 53 engine, few little details that concern me. The valve cover top nut just does not fit as I think it should. I have checked the parts book and it does not call out a seal washer under the nut, Centerville Auto in California advised that no gasket under this nut, not enough oil up top to worry about it leaking. The gasket kit has a seal for this area but it does not fit in the recess it has a larger OD. As you can see the nut will just dig in the cover. I am thinking of making a small gasket for this area. I have looked for pictures of the spark plug shields installed, but detail on the nut and stud is not easy to see. One thought is the new nuts are just a bit taller, what is the acceptable protrusion on these studs; I plan on making new studs and having a few threads exposed. Thanks for suggestions Steve