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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. No problem. I’d hate to see it go to the scrappers. I know how hard it is to find parts from this era, but I also know how difficult it is to sell a parts car like this. I would buy it and part it out if I could, but I’m spending all my free time on the restoration of my 32 Dodge Brothers.
  2. Taylormade

    Where to begin the process of selling?

    This is on eBay for a $14,500 buy it now price. Really nice, running, driving car with accessory wire wheels.
  3. Taylormade

    Where to begin the process of selling?

    There are several similar cars for sale in The Dodge Brothers Club News, our club magazine. A nice 23 touring for $13,500. A 23 roadster that needs some work for $6200. A 20 touring that needs a total restoration for $2000. Top dollar for a pristine, running car is around 18 grand. I have seen some advertised for more than that - up to 45 grand - but they stay on the market for a long, long time. If it really is an original survivor, and not an old restoration, it’s worth more. I looked at a totally original 1918 touring car two years ago for $8000. If the motor had been running, I would have purchased it.
  4. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    As I'm repairing my transmission leak, crawling under the car, I noticed many of the bare metal parts I had painted clear were rusty as all get out. Either i forgot to paint some of this stuff, or the paint did a crummy job of protecting things. Take the freewheeling lever, for instance. This was shiny and bright last fall. So I painted it and many other small parts around the transmission. Maybe not totally original, but pretty maintenance free. I also got my headlight reflectors back from the re-silvering company. They look good, but are really hard to photograph. Nothing leaking from the tranny, so far.
  5. This is the story of Daphne, the Black Daliha, my once and future 1932 Dodge DL sedan. Warning: this is a story of lust, loss of innocence, betrayal and redemption. Read at your own risk. It was 1965. I was a sophomore at Syracuse university. Life was good. Vietnam was just a distant dark cloud on the horizon. I had everything - except a car. I'd just joined Delta Tau Delta Fraternity. All the cool guys in the frat owned cars. I wanted to be a cool guy. I lusted after a set of wheels. But not the wheels the other brothers were driving; not an MGA, or a new Chevy convertible, or a 58 Corvette, no, I lusted after a big, black 1930s sedan. After all, my favorite TV show had been "The Untouchables." Those long, curvey, full-fendered monsters roaring down a rain-slicked street got my blood boiling. Not a coupe, not even a convertible, but a four door sedan - with sidemounts, of course. That was MY idea of a car! I was immediately shunned by most of my fraternity brothers. On a pleasant spring day I was walking to class and happened to pass by the staff parking lot. Sitting there, under a huge oak, was the car of my dreams. Stunned, I pushed my way through the hedge to get a better look at her. It said Dodge Brothers on the winged badge that adorned the chrome radiator shell. The front fenders held magnificent spoked wheels and hulking Allstate tires. The four door body, black as coal, stretched off into the distance. Lust doesn't even describe my feeling at that moment. I had to own that car. I would kill to own that car. Two minor problems: I couldn't find the owner and I was broke. Day after day I passed by my obsession on the way to class. She sat there, taunting me. My attention slipped, my grades suffered. I spent long nights staring at the ceiling, unable to sleep. Then, one day, I noticed something different about the black beauty. Was it...? Yes, a sign in the window: black with red letters - FOR SALE. And below, in ball point pen - $400. My euphoria was short-lived as I suddenly realized the magnitude of my dilemma. My heart sank. I was doomed. Where was I going to come up with four hundred large? My palms grew damp, my eyesight dimmed. This couldn't be happening. Someone was bound to snap up this gem and she would be gone forever! What to do, what to do? Holding up a convenience store was out of the question. What would my parents say if I got caught? My parents...hmmmm. Yeah, I could call my dad, already strapped with paying my tuition and gearing up for my brother's entrance into the ivy halls of higher academia, and try to extort the $400 from him. My mouth dry, my fingers numb, I dialed sunny California - where my parents had conveniently moved from New York just after I decided on Syracuse as college of choice - and hit up the old man for four hundred clams. Things remained fairly calm until I mentioned the car in question was a Dodge. My father, a GM claims adjuster/manager/executive for 18 years (it would be 40 years before he retired) was appalled. A Chrysler Product! Was I out of my mind? And what year was it? I wasn't sure; late twenties, early thirties? Who cared? It was cool! To this day I don't know why my father said yes to my buying a 33 year old non GM product, but he did. He sent me the money and I was the proud owner of a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan. My loss of innocence came fast and hard. I treated my gem, my overwhelming desire, like dirt. She never let me down, despite my indifference, my abuse, my thoughtlessness. I was remiss in changing the oil, maintaining the fluid levels, washing her, keeping her safe. I drove her in the snow, in the slush, through the brutal upstate New York winters. I piled into a parked car during a blizzard and somehow managed to scrape up enough cash to have the damaged passenger side fender repaired - twenty-five bucks. I owed her that. A fellow Delt backed her out of the driveway - the driveway was our only parking space and musical cars was the game of the day - and he ran into a parked car across the street. The back window was small on these sedans - low visibility. Gone was the tail light and the fender was crumpled. I couldn't raise enough money to fix it, so I slapped on a cheap aftermarket tail light and soldiered on. She always started, always got me to where I was going, but my treatment of her was beyond the pale. Deep in my heart I knew I was the villain a she was the suffering victim. Then, the call from my dad. Oh, the horror, the horror! My brother was in college now, times were tough and he couldn't afford the car insurance anymore. I'd have to sell the Dodge. I begged and pleaded, tried to talk him into putting her into storage. No deal, sell the car. I put an ad in the paper. The guy who sold it to me called. I wanted $400. He said that was too high. No one wanted my car. It wasn't cool. I wasn't cool. Then a fellow Delt, a kindred spirit, Phil Kennedy, found out I was selling the old girl. His sensibilities were apparently as strange and twisted as mine. He wanted to buy the car. He loved the thirties styling. He'd never owned a car. He lusted after my Dodge. Just one problem - he was broke. He nervously called his father, who read him the riot act and then agreed to give Phil the money. The deal was made and the Dodge passed out of my life - I thought forever. Forty-five years passed. I met the girl of my dreams, got married, had a daughter, three grand-kids. I thought of my old Dodge often, wondering whatever had happened to her, figuring she was probably part of a 1986 Subaru or something equally horrifying. In a moment of insanity, I was talked into joining Facebook by my daughter and granddaughters. I began to catch up on old friends. I thought about Phil Kennedy and my old car. Any chance he still had...no, impossible. I finally tracked Phil down and discovered he had bought another 32 Dodge. My old car was sitting in his grandmother's - now his - garage, and had been there since 1970. At that point I had a 1948 Plymouth and a 50 Dodge Wayfarer roadster. Phil and I exchanged amenities and promptly lost track of each other for three years. I came in from the workshop one day after fighting with the rusted out floorboards of the convertible. My wife could see I was miserable. "Do you really care about the convertible?" she asked. Now, I thought the Wayfarer was a neat old car, but I had to admit my heart wasn't really in it. And then it came to me - the car I really wanted to restore, the only car I really wanted, was my old Dodge, my first car. I struggled to find Phil again. Would he still have the car? Would he sell it? Through another Delt brother I found Phil's email and sent him off the message. It was like that spring day in Syracuse all over again. I lusted after my old car and this time, if I was lucky enough to get her back, I would treat her like the lady she always was. Phil's reply was too good to be true. Since he had purchased his all original 32 he had decided he'd never have time to restore "my" old Dodge. He was thinking about selling her, and had actually though of me first - but he figured that since I already had two cars, I wouldn't be interested. I quickly got that idea out of his head! We made a deal and my first car was coming back home after 45 years. Over the last two months I have sold the Plymouth and the Wayfarer. I hated to see them go, but I wanted to devote all my time (and money) to the restoration of the Dodge. Here's the Plymouth heading off to Texas. I hope to have Daphne finished in time for the 100th anniversary of Dodge in 2014 and drive her up to the big show in Auburn Hills. It will be a daunting task, but she deserves it after what I put her through all those years ago.
  6. Motor number is ES48001. Has this strange electrical setup. Again, I'm not an expert. Also this on the exhaust manifold. Not sure what it is supposed to do. Motometer has wings cracked off. Good for parts only. That's it. The frame appears solid. I know Chad wants to sell it whole, but I told him he'd have to find someone near enough who really needs it to haul it away. It was his Dad's, so he doesn't want to scrap it, but he's not an enthusiast and has a lot on his plate trying to clean up his father's estate. He wants $800, but I'm sure he'll take less. I have no idea if any of this is rare or valuable, but folks on this forum should know, and I hope the pictures help.
  7. Fenders are rusty with some metal missing. Still has both levers. Don't know if these are hard to find - they sure are in Chrysler products. One hubcap. Has a dent. Instruments still there, but in rough shape. The aluminum plates around the steering column, accelerator pedal and starter are still there and in good shape.
  8. This car was close by, so I thought I'd drive over and take a look. Chad mainly wanted to know if this was a Big Six or not. I'm a Dodge Brothers guy, and my Studebaker knowledge is about zero, so I figured some of you guys might have a better idea if anything on the car is worth anything or not. I read on the internet that the 1926 Studebaker Big Six had a 120 inch or 127 inch wheelbase, so I brought my trusty tape measure and discovered a wheelbase of 157 inches! Just a guess, but was this a firetruck, commercial vehicle or a hearse/ambulance? I tried to get shots of the most important areas. It's a four wheel brake car/truck. Pretty rough - been sitting outside a long time. Unfortunately, the head is off the motor and has crude welding repair. Too bad as the bores didn't have a ridge, but now lots of rust inside. Intake manifold is cracked at the bolt supports, the exhaust looks okay. I don't think the headlights are correct.
  9. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Thanks, Jack. Been there, done that. No leaks so far.
  10. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    My sealing washers arrived and I installed one on the shaft clamp bolt on my transmission. Since I can fill the transmission without reinstalling the freewheeling extension, I filled the transmission case and moved on to other projects. I’ll see if any leaks develope over the next few weeks. If all goes well, I’ll put everything back together - hopefully for the final time.
  11. Taylormade

    1933 Plymouth PC

    Interior or exterior? Exterior - remove the two screws on the handle escutcheon and the handle will come out with the escutcheon attached to the handle shaft. Interior - push the door panel in around the handle. You will see a small round pin in the handle in the square area behind the circular part of the handle. Push the pin out with an ice pick or very small diameter screwdriver. With the pin removed, the handle will pull off.
  12. With your current tires, I don’t think there would be a noticeable difference. I could always easily lock up my wheels with the original brakes. If you have grease on the pads, there’s a big part of your problem. If you have grease on the rear pads, the front disks are not going to help much - time for a reline of the shoes, which any good brake shop can do. Or you can rivet them on yourself.
  13. That looks like a quality kit, but you’re going to be close to 900 bucks once you buy all the accessories that are not included. You can totally rebuild your original system for a little over a third of that. There are virtually no mechanical parts that are not available for your car. Ask me anytime - I’ve replaced all of mine. 😀 l guess most of us really admire your car and would prefer to see it kept as original as possible. Still, you don’t have the original motor, so I guess it’s a bit hypocritical to insist on total originality. A different axle ratio will get you a better top speed, but you will labor in hilly country. A different axle will cost more than a rebuild of your current axle, and you may have to rebuild the axle you pull out of the junkyard anyway. Then there is cutting off the spring hanger pads and welding on correctly spaced pads. Then the adapters to match your wheel bolt patterns. You’ll probably have close to two grand spent for a marginal increase in top speed, slightly better braking, sluggish starts and poor performance on hills. Or spend five or six hundred bucks to rebuild the original brakes and rear axle. I’m signing off on this argument. You’ll do what you feel is necessary and right in the long run. Feel free to ask any questions about your original stuff and I’ll be glad to chime in if I can help.
  14. I don’t want to sound like the crabby old man yelling to the neighborhood kids to get off his lawn, but half the fun of owning a vintage vehicle is experiencing what it was like to drive one of these old buggies back in the day. Trying to take halfway measures to make the car “drivable” usually results in a bad experience for the driver and the car. These Dodges have Lockheed brakes. If adjusted properly and up to specifications, they stop the car very nicely. If you have to pump the brakes three times just to stop the car, there is something wrong with your brakes. Are they adjusted properly? Are the linings worn or oil saturated? Are the drums worn? Have you checked the lines and fittings? Are the master cylinder and wheel cylinders smooth inside and leak free? Are the rubber fittings soft and pliable? How long since the fluid has been drained and replaced with fresh fluid? You’re going to have to do all this if you plan on installing disk brakes anyway, so why not do it now and see what happens? To expect a car car of this age to perform like a modern car is ridiculous. Ever seen the lube chart for your Dodge? I’ve spent many an afternoon under my car lubing the dozens of fittings on all manner of moving parts. There are no sealed bearings or permanently lubed parts on these cars. You don’t get in and drive them 30,000 miles with no maintenance. As I’ve tried to point out, you don’t just slap on a set of disk brakes in a couple of hours. Although there are partial kits for later Mopars, I don’t believe there are any for our earlier cars. So, be prepared to do an extensive search for a disk setup that will work on your car - correct diameter, stopping power, calipers - then find a machine shop that can cut out and drill your brake supports - after you’ve designed them and made up the cad drawings. Then chose your master cylinder - after you have designed your new mounting system and how it will connect the the pedal. After fabricating the new mounts and pedal linkage, properly shield the area and weld the mounts to the frame - after cutting off the old mounts and destroying the old system. Now fabricate and install new brake lines since the old lines will no longer fit your new configuration. Don’t forget to fabricate and install the mount for the proportioning valve you’ll need to keep proper balance between the front disks and rear drums. Then take the car out and experiment, adjusting the valve until you get the braking correct. After all this you may get marginally better braking which will still be limited to those four inch tire treads. in my experience, unless you are a good fabricator, welder and designer, or have an excellent hot rod shop in the area, many of these “update projects” end up with the car sitting in the garage half apart until the owner loses interest and sells it as a project. You seem to genuinely enjoy driving your Dodge. Use it as it was meant to be used, maintain the original systems and get them to spec if something is worn out or malfunctioning. My 32 was my first car. I bought it in 1965 and drove it daily up in Syracuse, New York during bitterly hard winters, deep snow and icy roads. It always started and ran just fine. It was my daily driver, all original and I wouldn’t (and haven’t) changed a thing, and I’m glad of it.
  15. Taylormade

    1929 Pontiac 6-29 Two-Door Sedan

    Nice looking Pontiac. Are the bumpers painted or powder coated? They don’t match the chrome on the rest of the car. As you said, a nice entry level car.
  16. Taylormade

    1932 Dodge

    Plus, there is a lot more than just adding the fenders or adding the wells to existing fenders. The side mount fenders have a separate brace that attaches from the frame to the back of the fender well. This brace supports a chrome rod that attaches the tire clamp. The rod offers further support by being attached to the body by a chrome extension piece. Then there are the tire locks, very hard to find, and the pins that hold the locks to the fenders. With out all this hardware, the fenders will not support the weight of the tires over a period of time and they could become damaged.
  17. If the 33 has the same type of Floating Power that my 32 has, putting in a different transmission may be a lot more difficult than you think. My motor and transmission, as a unit, are suspended by two rubber mounts, one at the front of the engine and one at the rear of the transmission, on the free wheeling extension. The bellhousing floats free, supported by a rubber pad on a removable crossmember. The bellhousing does not attach to the frame with the usual ears found on most cars. Trying to put something like a T-5 in is going to take some really creative engineering. You would have to design a rear cradle rubber mount with the correct durometer rating that attached to the removable transmission cross piece, and the cross piece would probably have to be rebuilt or entirely redesigned and fabricated. The Dodge 32 Floating Power has the entire motor and trans floating on rubber in a manner totally different than conventional mounting systems and is not conducive to trans swaps.
  18. As I mentioned in your other post, Then and Now Automotive can revulcanize these mounts with fresh rubber to factory specs. The cost for the rear mount was around sixty bucks when I had it done. This is a vital part of the Floating Power setup. I would not try and replace it with a different compound or material that has a totally different durometer reading. In my car this mount is steel with a vulcanized rubber insert, held to the transmission by four bolts in threaded holes, and to the removable cross member by two nuts and bolts.
  19. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I’m not sure if the 33 Floating Power setup is the same as my 32 - for your sake I hope not. There is a photo of the rear of my transmission (actually the free wheeling extension of the tranny) on page 52 of this thread. Are you calling the rubber Floating Power mount a bushing? If that is the case my rear rubber mount is attached to the free wheeling case by four bolts, two on each side, and attached to the removable frame cross member by two bolts. The only way to get it off is to remove the transmission by unbolting the bolts on the bellhousing and the four bolts that hold on the cross member. Be sure to support the rear of the engine at the bellhousing so that you don’t crush the rubber pad on the removable cross support. There are detailed photos of all this earlier in this thread. If you could post a shot or two of your transmission, I can tell you if you have the same setup. My my car has only one rubber support at the rear of the transmission.. Then and Now Automotive can revulcanize your mounts. They did all three of mine. This is also discussed and illustrated earlier in this thread.
  20. Taylormade

    33/34 Handle repair

    What's the best way to go about restaking? Not quite sure of the best way to do it without damaging things. My handles were disassembled by Paul's Chrome, so I'm flying a bit blind on reassembly.
  21. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Looks like McMaster-Carr has these washers in two different types. My bolt is a 5/16 with a shaft diameter of .310. It seems either of these washers would work for my purposes. Shipping will probably be more expensive than the washers themselves. They're not exactly the same as the British/Australian units, but it appears they do the same job.
  22. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Nothing but metric sizes that I can find. I’ll have to mic the bolt and see if I can find something close. I wonder if a copper compression washer would do the job? It states in the literature that the bonded seals were designed to replace compression washers.
  23. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I’m not sure what a bonded seal washer is. My ignorance is showing. Inquiring minds want to know.
  24. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Of all aspects of this restoration, the transmission has proven to be the biggest problem - so far. From a chipped gear tooth, to shot bearings, to a total rebuild, this area of the car has caused trouble from the beginning. I've complained before about the awful engineering setup that makes access to the rear of the transmission almost impossible due to the free wheeling unit and the rubber rear mount for the Floating Power. I chronicled the problem with the leak that developed last year from the area where the shafts enter the trans casing. I thought I had it fixed, using a recommended sealant on the shafts. Much to my dismay, this spring the leak was back. Much slower, but it managed to run out and down along the bottom of the trans case over the winter. This forced me to remove the freewheeling case, rubber mount and transmission cross support once again. as the shaft area is impossible to access when these items are in place. So, off it all came, resulting in this... Notice the rust developing on some of the bolts. This will be a good time to address that problem. All to this had to come off to get the freewheeling unit off. The freewheeling unit after removal. I'm going to have to make up a new gasket as the old (new) one was destroyed prying the units apart. At least i was able to leave the parking brake drum and U-joint in place. Once I could see the problem area, I was relieved to discover the leak was coming from the bolt in the center of the locking plate and not the shaft areas. Here's an old picture of what the area looks like. I was too lazy to take pictures while I was under the car today. I had put a rubber grommet on the bolt to prevent leaks, but I discovered it had torn when I torqued it down. The leak came along the threads and out behind the bolt head. I plan to seal the bolt threads with thread compound this time and place a fiber washer under the bolt washer. Hopefully this will finally fix the problem. I'm going to fill the tranny up over the shafts and wait a few weeks before I put everything back together - just in case. Guess I better get going on that gasket - and cleaning off the remains of the old one.
  25. Taylormade

    1912 Metz Model 22 Roadster

    The only price I see is $495. If so, I’ll take it!