Taylormade

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Everything posted by Taylormade

  1. This car was listed as sold for $3152.00 on August 26th. Now it’s back on eBay with top bid at $565.00. Maybe the first winner showed up, discovered the true condition of the car, fainted, and then drove home with an empty trailer. Or maybe his wife found out and he just never showed. I have to admit, it’s an interesting car, and one that can conjure up some pleasant dreams. But after spending five years restoring my 32 DB, which was a complete car in fairly decent condition, tackling this project would be more than I could handle. I do hope someone can save it, it’s a cool car.
  2. Taylormade

    Painting Wheels

    My wheels looked worse than yours - half had been painted black - and the original color had darkened due to weathering and rust. I had all six wheels sandblasted and then took them to a wire wheel specialist to have the spokes tightened and the wheels trued.
  3. Taylormade

    Painting Wheels

    Gloss and sunflower yellow (a creamy yellow) as original. I don’t think gray would look good - just my opinion. Are you taking the tires off? If so, be sure to clean the inner rims and make sure they are rust free and as smooth as possible.
  4. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Should be working now.
  5. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Well, I finally got Daphne started. No real problems, she cranked for awhile but then took off. There was some obnoxious noise from the fan or waterpump area that I think was a loose fan belt - you can see my worried and annoyed look on the video. The first few tries nothing happened, and I thought she might not be getting a spark. I loosened one of the plug leads and held it close and got a spark. Then the motor wanted to start. I snapped the plug wire back on and she started right up. Not sure why that seemed to be the "spark" that got her going. On a later try, I had to do the same thing. My coil wires are all rather long at the moment, so maybe she isn't getting enough juice at startup. There might be some lifter noise, see what you think. The carb seemed to work fine and I got 50 pounds of oil pressure. No leaks so far. I am pretty happy with this, as I didn't have to adjust the distributor at all and actually had all the plug wires in the correct sequence.. Lots of smoke as I had Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. I noticed a bit of bubbling around the top of the manifold, but a quick tightening of the manifold bolts got rid of that. The second shot has her running pretty well. Still not sure if I'm getting too much lifter noise or if that's normal. This really took a lot of stress off the restoration. A little work with the motor and I can put the hood on and start working on the interior.
  6. They look like the two on my DL, but the length may be different. I’ll check tomorrow.
  7. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Thanks. Adjusted the carb this afternoon. Plans are to start the car tomorrow evening when my granddaughter gets out of basketball practice.
  8. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Doing a few small jobs today. I cleaned off the speedometer cable (it's a long one!) and was pleasantly surprised to find everything intact, still very flexible, and with both ends and fittings in good shape. The cable pulls out of the housing easily. and I plan to clean it and re-lube the housing. Any suggestions on the best way to do this? The housing was caked with 80 years of dirt and oil, but it cleaned up nicely. Ends and fittings all good. Then I fabricated a new carb linkage, as my new BB-1 updraft is different than my old carb setup. Next, I went through my list in preparation of starting the engine for the first time. Gapped plugs to .028. Made sure the crankcase is full of new oil with a bottle of zinc additive for startup. Radiator full - no leaks from hoses or radiator a week after filling. Points gap set. Plug wires checked for position on distributor cap and plugs. Valve covers tightened, new cork gaskets. New coil (hopefully good) with positive wire to distributor and negative wire to negative terminal of battery (positive ground system). Temporary oil pressure gauge and temperature gauge installed. Remote gravity fed fuel tank filled with non-ethanol gas. Fire extinguisher. Fresh six volt battery with correct, large gauge wires. The only thing I haven't done yet is to adjust the BB-1 updraft carb. I'm searching for the correct information on initial setup after a rebuild. As usual, I have it somewhere, but can't find it at the moment. I just noticed in my linkage photo that i don't have the bolt in the exhaust pipe clamp. That needs to be done. Anything I may have forgotten? I promised my youngest granddaughter that she could be there for the first startup. At 13, she is exhibiting a real interest in cars. Since she lives just down the street, this won't be a problem. I'll take video of the first attempt. hopefully it will be uneventful. I know I've been promising to start Daphne for the last year, but it's actually going to happen - I hope.
  9. Taylormade

    Plymouth gearbox

    Also 32 Dodge Brothers DL. Won’t fit a 33.
  10. Taylormade

    Plymouth gear box ?

    Based on other posts about Sactownog’s 34 (33?) Dodge, this gearbox won’t fit your car. The unit you have is identical to my 32 DL, a one year only design. I don’t think it’s for a Plymouth, but I’m not sure. It has the free wheeling extension on the back. I think they went with an integrated free wheeling setup in 33. I know the mounting system will not fit your car. It also looks like the rubber mount is shot, or even broken, by the way the shift gate lines up in several of your photos. Contact me if you plan to take this apart, as you can badly damage some valuable parts - ask someone who knows. 😀. Even picking it up wrong can damage it if the rubber is bad.
  11. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    It would be great, but my 32 doesn’t have the brace. Not sure about overheating. Maybe metal is a better way to go.
  12. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Since I’ve never seen the original coil, I can’t comment on it’s weight, but Bullfrog’s comments are reassuring. The ignition switch is off to the side of the dash, not covered by the instrument panel insert. Thanks for the comments, I’ll let you all know it works out.
  13. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Just found this on Amazon. With the wall thickness and temperature range, I think this might do the trick. or, do you think it would be too flimsy?
  14. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I've been trying to come up with a practical way to mount my coil. The 32 Dodge Brothers DL originally had one of those integrated coils where the ignition switch is built into the rear of the coil and the whole unit rests behind the dash as a single unit. Some of these type of coils were mounted on three prongs that accepted bolts on the back of the dash. My setup used a tubular mount that the coil and switch were clamped to. It worked like this - There is a company that still makes this type of coil, but they want almost three hundred bucks for the unit. My original coil was long gone, replaced by an aftermarket ignition switch and a separate, standard coil. I wanted to come up with something that would allow me to mount a coil under the dash, but still retain the ignition switch - since the key matches the key to my sidemount locks. When I bought the car in 1965, it was set up like the graphic below. Unfortunately, the ignition switch extends too far into the clamp to allow me to clamp an aftermarket coil inside behind it. So I came up with this solution - This way I can replace the coil without spending three hundred hard earned dollars. It also keeps the coil up under the dash almost in the original position. Now I have to figure out how to make the tube. The inside diameter of the coil holder is about 2.5 inches. The coil's diemeter is 2.25 inches. I probably don't even need a stepped tube, just one that is 2.25 ID and 2.5 OD. And checking, I found steel tubing with those exact dimensions. An eight inch piece is under ten bucks. My only concern is the combined weight of the coil and the tubing. I do want to keep the coil off the firewall for an original look. Any other ideas that might work?
  15. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    I checked, but it would be under the gas tank cover and not visible from the top view.
  16. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    So, I've taken over 4000 photos during the restoration of Daphne. Apparently, that just wasn't enough. I'm going through the exhaust system, getting ready to hook everything up. As I documented in earlier posts, I had the mounting bracket just behind the muffler remade (mine was missing) and the frame bracket re-vulcanized by Then And Now Automotive. So, all I had left was the rear mounting bracket. The problem is, I have two bags labelled "rear exhaust mount." This one... And this one... I went back through my frame disassembly photos and found these. It's obviously the first bracket, here on the rear of the frame... And here in a shot where i had the frame turned over. This looks like a jury-rigged setup to me. The other bracket looks a lot more substantial, but i can't find a single photograph of it on the frame. Exhaust systems are one of the items that have usually been changed on these old cars, so what is original and what isn't is always a crap shoot. If anyone has a 32 (or even a 31) with what they think is an original exhaust system, I'd be curious if there is anything like bracket two under there. How it got into the bag (with my writing on it) where is came from, and what it actually is, remain a mystery. I have come across a few bags with leftover parts from my long gone 48 Plymouth, but I never did anything to the exhaust on that car.
  17. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    As far as I know, all 32 radiators have that hole. My car did not come with the thermostatically controlled shutters. The original owner opted for side-mounts and wire wheels, but no shutters.
  18. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    The radiator attaches to the shell with flat head slotted screws and nuts. The pain is you have to stretch the hood lace away enough to get the screw in there and then get a screwdriver on it to tighten things down. It's a long and tricky process. Then it was time to put everything back on the car. Lots of protection for the fenders. Things went smoothly and the shell dropped into place with no damage, scratches, cursing or other problems. Filled with distilled water after hooking the hoses back up and no leaks or other difficulties,
  19. Taylormade

    The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

    Put the radiator back in last weekend. Some interesting details in this assembly. First, the water leak that started the problem. And the repair. The area cleaned and soldered. The lower section of the radiator has this stamped steel piece that, I believe, helps direct air up and into the radiator. It attaches with these screw head bolts and nuts. Thankfully, they didn't break when I took things apart. I don't know where I'd ever find replacements. They go through the honeycomb of the radiator. This obviously would be a major problem if the radiator was re-cored with a modern core. Here are the bolts in place. Here you can see the scoop on the radiator. Everything assembled and ready to go. Now I dropped it into the grill shell. Everything fit perfectly - for a change.
  20. Taylormade

    1938 Chevy Coupe for sale

    Also, add the cost of rechroming the bumpers. Nice looking car.
  21. Taylormade

    1939 Pontiac Woodie advice

    I think Gary and the rest of the folks on the forum were just trying to answer your questions as best they could. It’s not our job to prove your car is or is not a genuine woodie, but to offer advice on finding the truth. This seems to be your main concern. If you want a nice car that is fun to drive and show at local events, it makes no difference. If you want to strive for national awards and high resale value, you’d better make sure of the car’s origin before you spend big bucks to finish the Pontiac. The word of an auctioneer, a friend or a wife, however well intentioned, do not constitute proof that the car started out as a woodie. You need numbers. Trust me, if you offer the completed car at a premium price in the future, and a prospective buyer asked for documentation that the vehicle is a real woodie, “Prove it’s not!” is not going to go over very well.
  22. Taylormade

    Remove body from REO advice needed

    Another problem can be getting the body up over the steering column and steering wheel.
  23. Taylormade

    engine swaps

    I believe the Dodge uses the shorter block. Chrysler and DeSoto used the longer block.
  24. Taylormade

    Remove body from REO advice needed

    I see the problem. My car’s body was channeled over the frame and it was necessary to remove the running board splash pans and a metal strip that held captive bolts that attached to the frame. I can’t tell if this is the case with your car. I know my 29 Plymouth’s body sat on the top of the frame, but by 1932 many cars had the body channeled for a lower, sleeker look. At any rate, we lifted the body off using a floor lift, placing the support pads under the door hinges. Not ideal, but it was the only way we could figure out how to do it. We could have done it with four or five guys muscling it off - but then you have to put it somewhere, this without scratching the paint. I was lucky, as Dodge Brothers bodies were all steel, with no wood sills or framework. If, as Mark Gregory states, your Reo has a wood frame work, you will have to be very careful as any rotten wood could cause the body to twist or sag when removed from the support of the frame. I’d go very slowly, checking the body as you go. If the wood needs replacing, you’re probably going to loose that nice paint job on the body. Make note of any and all body shims and keep them plainly marked, as they will determine the door hang and clearance. Since they need painting, take all four fenders off first. Keep track of fender welt and other welting around the running boards. Obviously, remove the hood, the running boards, the front and back lights and anything attached to the frame as Tinindian points put. Personally, I would remove the fenders, the running boards and the running board splash pans and take a good look at the frame. If the wood in the body is good, you could mask off and protect the body and restore the frame with the body on. I know you won’t get the area on top of the frame, but if it appears to not be too corroded you may want to take that route. Good luck with your project!
  25. Taylormade

    Remove body from REO advice needed

    That looks like a very nice car. What problems with the frame do you have that need repair? Is the body channeled over the frame like my 32 Dodge Brothers, or does it rest on the top of the frame rails. Unless your frame really needs attention, lifting the body is a lot of work.